Engine power loss?

There are a few EGR codes, but if it sticks open it can cause your problems. Can you post the code?

This guide can help us fix it

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/engine-has-low-power-output

Please run down this guide and report back.

i cant remember the EGR code but it did say excessive flow. Where is the EGR valve located, and is there anyway i can check it before buying a new one for $80.00?

is there anyway to clean the EGR valve or fix it without buying a new one so i can make sure that is the problem?

i also notice the transmission doesn't shift right, i'm not sure if this problem is related to the power loss or not

would vacuum leaks have anything to do with these two problems, i checked for leaks but may have missed one...

You may have a vacuum leak, get a can of spray gumout, spray the vac lines and maniflod area, when the idle changes, youve found the leak! You want the engine running and spray on the outside but do direct the stream onto the hoses, if it is a vacuum leak, the engine idle will change speed, then you have detected a leak, repair the vacuum leak and see how it runs! If that doesnt do it, you may need a new idle air control valve, it's bolted to the throttlebody Use a vauum tester and see if the EGR open hold vauum, and closes. Its on the back side of the engine, you want to look at the solinoid too!

This controls the opening and closing of the EGR, its the EVR

1999 f-250 SD 4x4 V10. After having the 4R100 Trans and 273 T case repaired i cant keep it running. It runs great cold after warm up it bogs down when you give it the gas. Take it out of gear and rev it up does great put it in gear and give it the gas but it falters. I have replaced the mass air flow sensor, tps, cam sensor,air filter. No codes are found.I had this scanned at RUSH FORD of Denver they came up with these codes P0102 and P0113

one is intake air temp and the other maf high voltage. Look for a blockage in duct work or a broken duct or broken rubber piece to vavle covers. also try cleaning maf with choke cleaner.

I will check for those. My fuel psi 32-40 my vac is 18-20. I have check for blockage in the exhaust

also try to clean the throttle plate and iac valve with choke cleaner.they gum up and especially effect running at idle or coming to a stop

i have 2008 f250 superduty truck. wont go over 3 thousand rpm. put it on tester and got po141 code. oxygen sensor. i changed upper and lower.still wont run right

its a 2008

Check and test the mass airflow sensor and throttle position sensor-

how come no code comes up? where are they?

I have a 1999 7.3 engine that has a rough idle dtc retrived is p1211 almost everytime .engine is rough at idle but engine works fine as rpm increases. i have cheked icp and ipr ok . as engine is driven for about 20 miles engine completely dies and wont start for about 30 mins to an hour. I notice that when this happens oil gauge in instrument cluster wont move at all stays at the bottom. I also cheked oil resevoir ok oil is present. turbo has been replaced due to internal oil leak and problem appeared after this also vehicle has no power and is smoking white exessivle vehicle has been driven for more than 20 miles already.Oil change has already been perform. Any advice???

you will need to deal with the no start first. when it dies hot and you get that code it is loosing high pressure oil. you will need to monitor your high oil presure with a scanner it needs 500 psi to start. if you are not getting that block off the left head and test if still no pressure hook up and block off the right side if no pressure block off both if no pressure replace high pressure pump and ipr. if you do get pressure when blocking off the left or right head the problem is in that head. with the rough idle i would be thinking that you need a new injector they can dump oil pressure causeing the no start

Don't always rely on the computer to pop a code to give you a starting point-You need a repair manual to do the testing on these sensor-

My check engine light comes on for a few seconds while I am driving or while stopped in drive. While it is on, when you step on the gas, the motor will not rev up or go. It still runs but will not go anywhere. This happens only while the engine light is on for a few seconds.

You need to pull the diagnostic codes and post them.

https://www.2carpros.com/kpages/first_things.htm

When I get on steady speed it loses power then increase power. I think is my turbo

Hello my name is Dave.

Usually if your turbo is having problems you'll see blue (oil) smoke. If you haven't done so already I would recommend changing the fuel filter. The more likely cause would be the ICP sensor which is the injector control pressure, another possibility would be high pressure pump. The sensor is connected to the pump which is in the valley under the intake manifold. If you have a MIL on then I would check the codes and see if it's showing a pressure issue. If you don't have a code, which would not be unusual for this issue, I would change the sensor and see if that cures the problem as there's no reliable way to test the sensor. Before going ahead with changing the pump I would suggest letting us know and we can work on diagnosing it.

working on an F250 Ford Truck with a 7.3L diesel engine. I have an oil leak under high pressure oil pump. Do you think I have a bad pump or a gasket or O ring?

there are 2 lines that are there too. it may be the lines.
you will find out when you pull out the pump.

Roy

Depends on what is leaking. If it's leaking from the seal, then most likely just the seal. But if it's leaking from the pump housing, the pump will need to be replaced.

96 f250 gas.When I step on gas only when its cold it knocks and wont accelerate. very sluggish. once it is warmed up no prob. This started a month ago but only did it a few times now it its every time I have done a FULL tune up and used sea foam in fuel lines ran it but still not running right.

When i tuned it (plugs, wires, filters cap, rotor) it ran so great. then it started feeling like it was running out of fuel and knocking but this did not happen every time. Now it is doing it every day but once it gets warmed up no problem?

Check the ignition timing.

shoudnt my computer make adjustments for that

That depends on what engine you have.

460 also I forgot to mention if I shut the truck and start it back up it usually takes care of it

I just test drove a local for sale 1994 f250 4x4 460 efi.
it has an exhaust leak on the passenger side at back. power seems lacking for a 460. the owner is willing to let me have a shop look at it before we settle. other than compression check, and clogged converter....what am I looking for?
can exhaust leak cause the power loss?

possible depending on how close it is to the oxygen sensor it can mess with the mixture reading.Problem is with those 460's is that the break exhaust bolts, then they harden from the heat and can be extremely difficult/expensive to have removed.Have seen instances where the head had to be removed to get the bolt out, and the cats for those are a little pricey as well

ENGINE ADJUSTMENTS - 7.5L -1996 Ford Pickup F250
Page 1 of 1
IGNITION TIMING

NOTE:
Depending on model, Pickup uses EEC-IV or EEC-V system. EEC-IV PCM
has 60-pin connector. EEC-V PCM has 104-pin connector. See the
ENGINE/VIN ID article for correct application.
With Federal Emissions (EEC-IV)

1.
Set transmission in Park or Neutral. Turn A/C and heater off. Connect inductive timing light to engine. With engine off, unplug in-line SPOUT connector (Yellow/Light Green wire near
distributor), or remove shorting bar from the double-wire SPOUT connector. Start and warm engine to normal operating temperature. DO NOT start engine with remote starter switch; use
only ignition key.
With engine at idle speed, check/adjust initial timing to 10 degrees BTDC. Turn engine off. Reconnect the single-wire in-line SPOUT connector or reinstall shorting bar on double-wire
SPOUT connector. Start engine. Verify timing advances beyond initial setting. Remove test equipment and reconnect all components.
2.
All Other Models (EEC-V)

Ignition timing on models equipped with EEC-V is not adjustable.

Like I asked before ....if my timimg was off wouldnt it act like this all the....and wouldnt my computer make adjustments for that

IF you have the EEC-V computer, yes. If you have the EEC-IV, MAYBE, if the timing isn't off too far. But checking the timing willalso tell you if the chain is loose, because you will see the timing mark bouncing around, which is something the computer can't compensate for.

Also check the fuel pressure at the regulator.

Tapping into the mechanic knowledge base. Truck runs smoothly at low RPM. As I add more throttle, the engine bogs down big time. I checked the fuel pump and it appears to be pumping plenty of fuel. I changed the fuel filter. I observed the exhaust pipe when I had my wife floor the running engine, and it appeared as though there was some unburned fule coming out the exhaust. Any ideas?

Sorry, it appears to be soot filled condensation, my hands smelled of fuel.

5.0?

when did this start happening?

460. I think 7.5

MY TRUCK STARTED INTERMITANTLY STALLING BOGGING DOWN when I step on the gas sometimes it feel like I am firmly pressing on the break the releasing it I thought I have been going through a lot of gas lately but when I thought I was running out of gas the other day so I quickly went and put more gas in right away it started stalling it started a few times but I had to keep pumping on the accellerator pedal and revving the motor it recently passed smog with flying even remarkable colors after replacing the cat conv but it feels like it bogs down instead of kick n ass sometimes it seems like all of a sudden my breaks arnt stopping I feel like there is a vacuum leak but cant find one and re cently my husband found a 30 amp fuse under the dash that was melted but not blown wierd?