Check engine light on?

Have you had the computer scanned for codes?

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/checking-a-service-engine-soon-or-check-engine-light-on-or-flashing

Please run down this guide and report back.

Yes, I was getting a cylinder head over temp. I'm thinking I may have a sticky thermistat

That could cause it. This video will help you clear the codes

https://youtu.be/ahK_eucFi-k


Please let us know what happens.

what is invovled and how difficult is it to change the ignition coil on the #6 cylinder? I have already changed #2 coil for the same problem.

they all have one bolt securing them, some are easier to get at than others. these coils are notorious for going bad when water gets near them. i've replaced individual coills in about 15 minutes. it's as easy as removing the screw, uplug the connector, pull off plug, and thats it.

My Service Engine Light came on and began to idle rough. I checked the code and it said left and right bank oxygen sensors were at fault. Not believing that all four oxygen sensors would go bad at one time, I bought one up stream sensor and one down stream sensor. I then installed, reset codes and light came on again. I switched the other two out with the new ones and still the engine light comes on. Now I have replaced the MAF sensor and still the service engine light comes on after resetting the codes. What do I do know?

Your codes (I'll bet) were never oxygen sensor failure codes. I'm betting you got P0171, P0174 codes, which are lean codes caused from an intake leak or a vaccum hose leak. the codes were set because the oxygen sensors were doing there jobs. the MAF sensor readings were low because the engine was sucking air from somewhere after the MAF so it robbed air from being pulled through the MAF. Look for the PCV hose. It is a common failure for this code. If you have any other questions, feel free to ask.

my service engine light is on,but I sense no problems

take your truck to your local autozone, they can scan the computer for you, they do it for free then get back to us with the codes and we can tqake it from there

My truck is riding rough when excelerating and decelerating especially between 1st and 2nd gear. I have no engine warning lights flashing. Could I have another issue besides transmission?

Once again I will reply with the U joints. I had this same problem on my 2000 F 150 as well as a squeeking sound while in revers. I changed out the rear drive line U joints and it fixed the problem. I have about 120,000 miles on my truck. Hope this helps.

Service Engine Soon Light On showing Code PO171,PO174 too lean bank 1, and too lean bank 2. As I only have a little over 25000 miles on the truck I am kind of confused what the problem is due to the truck is running fine. It seems to be running the same as it was before the light came on. A mechanic used his OBD-11 scan tool, and cleared the codes only to have the light to come back on Two days later. The truck seems to me that there is no difference in performance.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks Petroman

was wondering if you fixed the problem my 2k f150 is doing the same

I don't know how many miles you have on your truck, but if it's running fine I might have the answer to your problem. I cleaned the Mass Air Flow Sensor with an Mass Air Flow Sensor Cleaner that I bought at Napa for about 5.00 dollars. I cleaned it while it was in the Air Cleaner Housing. Spray it Sparingly as it will be a little hard to start if you use too much. {NOTE] Do not touch the thin wire with anything, let the cleaner due the work. If you break the thin wire you just cost yourself about 150.00 dollars. After you spray the Sensor let it dry for about 15 mins then put Air Cleaner assembly back together. You will have to have the Code reset by somebody who has a Code Scanner. This procedure solved my problem, I hope it solves yours. Petroman

Hi
The Sevice Engine Soon light came on a few days ago and on a couple occasions the enigne started idling rough (this happened both times, oddly enough at the drive-through window at fast food restaurants, could this be a hint of some type?!) I put the vehicle in park and gave it a little gas and it seemed to clear it up. Vehicle runs fine otherwise.

Hi there,

Thank you for the donation,

Hmmm fast food and rough idle....... maybe your car is telling you something...lol... seriously this could be a problem with the idle control system, but with the check light on, you will have a set fault code in the ECU, a scan will read this code and this will help with the diagnostics, get a scan done and report the code here for more assistance.

mark (mhpautos)

HI
Thanks for your quick response.
To add to the problems I'm already having the truck is now stalling out while idling in gear plus it appears to have a slight hesitation when revved up. I stopped by Autozone after I got off work today and an associate plugged in one of those analyzers. I don't remember the code it came up with but he said the code meant that the air/fuel system could be dirty & sold me some Sea Foam fuel treatment to put in the gas tank. He said it may take up to 200 miles of driving for the problem to clear up. Unless you all have any other suggestions I guess I'll play wait & see for now. Thanks
Doug
P.S. If this is any help the vehicle appears to run worse after it has warmed up.

Hi there,

The actual code will be a big help, but in the interim, see how you go with the cleaning agent, let me know how you get on.

Mark (mhpautos)

[quote:090e07467b="mhpautos"]Hi there,

Thank you for the donation,

Hmmm fast food and rough idle....... maybe your car is telling you something...lol... seriously this could be a problem with the idle control system, but with the check light on, you will have a set fault code in the ECU, a scan will read this code and this will help with the diagnostics, get a scan done and report the code here for more assistance.

mark (mhpautos)[/quote:090e07467b]
An update to a prevous reply. I tried the fuel treatment Autozone recommended but it didn't do any good. I went to Adavance Auto Parts yesterday, they ran a check and came to the conclusion it could be any one of the four Oxygen Sensors may be bad but wasn't able to tell which one. He recommended taking it to a shop to have it further tested. BTW the codes coming up are as follows: PO 171 & PO 174. I think he said it said with the codes "System Lean Inboard" & "System Lean Outboard" if that is any help. Thanks
Doug

have you checked for any vacuum leaks as yet?

mark (mhpautos)

[quote:eb5bcc2fd6="mhpautos"]have you checked for any vacuum leaks as yet?

mark (mhpautos)[/quote:eb5bcc2fd6]
Hi Mark
Yeah I've done a check on that. I have one vaccuum line in question that runs back behind the throttle/choke area that seems to have some dry rot (it seems like the line has some type of "skin" to it that is peeling off and cracking when disturbed). I unplugged it and the vehicle's idle dropped significantly more when I did that, short of stalling completely. It appears to be like a "ready fit" vaccuum line for it twists and turns like has been made to do so. Any input on this would be gladly appreciated.
Doug

My truck failed inspection and the tech told me and showed me on the printout that the "Check Engine Soon" light is not illuminated when the key is turned on. He said I just have to replace the MLB bulb. I called the dealership and they told me it would cost $100 to scan it and it would cost a bit more to take the instrument cluster out and send it to an authorized repair shop to repair the bulb, because the whole thing is sealed to prevent tampering with the mileage. Is there any way I can replace the bulb myself? By taking off the dashboard. Thanks.

I hate to say it, but they are correct. The cluster is sealed and you will most likely break it taking it apart. It contains a printed circuit board and if it doesn't come apart and go together exactly right, you'll end up with other insturment panel problems. It needs to be repaired by an authorized repair shop.

I wish I had better news. Thanks for using 2carpros.com.

Joe

If any rubber vacuum lines look at all suspect they should be replaced, inn most cases the rubber hose can easily be replaced, as long as there is no sharp bends or kinks in the line there will not be a problem, so if this hose looks suspect look at the end and see if its just a small section off rubber hose fitted over a steel pipe.

Mark

My friend scanned and gave me the codes P1151 and P1131. What should I do?

UPDATE: I changed that vaccuum line out that looked bad but it didn't help. I took it to the dealership (the only place that would look at it today). They replaced a rather large vaccuum hose that went from the valve cover on to the very top back of the engine (the hose was rotted out on the back part - it was so far back in there I never saw it). Even though I shelled out nearly $200 for the repair (it's a dealership) at least it's back to running proper. Just the same thank you all for your help in this matter.
Doug

They deal with a lean fuel mixture. It could be a bad O2 sensor or there could be a vacuum leak

OK thats good that you are back on the road, the problem is that there are so many vacuum hoses on modern engines, you do have to look all over as it could be any number of them causing you a problem,

Mark

My husband just bought this truck the service engine light was on the dealer told us it was fixed the next day the light came back on when we had it hooked up it said the #4 cylinder we took it back they said it was repaired again then two days later the light came back on. When we took it back this time the check engine light will not come on at all even when first turning on the ignition switch. The computer still reads #4 cylinder. They say it was just a coinsidence that the light burt out and they want to charge us $500.00 to repair it.. It there any way to find out if they did something to the light and if so how do we prove it.(all the other lights work)

There should be a seal on the dashboard cluster where your check engine light is located. You must remove the dash cover to access. If you closely inspect the screws holding the dash cover on I will bet you can see that the dash cover was removed. A check engine light 99.9 percent of the time lasts the life of the truck. The reason for this is because it almost never comes on - and when it does come on the problem is usually solved and it goes out. The ones that fail are involved in a wreck or the vehical was flooded.
If your intention is to catch this dealer cheating I do suggest calling your local district attorneys' office for the proper course of action before you take the dash apart. It indeed sounds like to me that this dealer is breaking a federal law which prohibits tampering with diagnostic testing system of a car or truck without proper reason or cause.
I do think that this dealer did just that - they flicked the check engine light or surged the electrical wire that triggers the light so it would burn out.

I have 2003 F-150 and I am having so many problems with my engine coils and spark plugs. For the past year I have had to replace different engine coils and spark plugs because something is causing then to get wet. We replace one and another goes out and its become a nusance and costly. No one seems to know what the problem is. Once we remove the spark plug we notice that its rusted and they haven't been in for very long. we've replaced them atleast 3 times this past year.

Hi:
If this has the 5.4L and it is happening on the #7 and 8 cylenders, the rubber molding around the rear of the hood is causing the problem. Ford has had problems with those two.

Let me know if it is something different.

Joe

Its actually a 4.2 engine and i've had to relace almost all of them.

Hi, the injector on the cylinder that the coil goes bad on needs replacing, if the fuel mixture is lean it causing the coil to over work, making it fail. please let me know, thanks for using 2carpros.com

check engine light on.. code says low voltage to tps

is the vehicle running fine ?? if so .. turn off light .. test drive vehicle ... if fault re-occurs please re-post ... sensors sometimes pick up slight volatage drops/spikes and register a fault .. this could be the case ..

My Check Engine Light came on, and I took it to repair shop I trust. They diagnosedit as left side oxygen sensors. They replaced them. and gasket. Light came on again, and they spent 3 days, and could never identify problem. Gave me my money back, and reluctantly gave up.

Needed inspection, so tried another place I have been happy with. Their diagnosis showed same problem. They did no repairs just got light to stay of long enough to do inspection.

Light still on, and I want to find out why. I am reluctant to go to dealer, because I forsee that being expensive. I would like a least a clue before I take this step.

Thanks,

John

Is it the same code? Do you know the code number?

I don't know if this is the same number,but I will try to find out tomorrow. Will get back to you as soon as I do.

Let me know.

Joe