Check Engine Light?

Read this guide to get the codes

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/checking-a-service-engine-soon-or-check-engine-light-on-or-flashing

This video will help you clear the codes

https://youtu.be/ahK_eucFi-k

Please let us know what happens. Please run down this guide and report back.

The light is on right now. The only thing I see wrong at the moment is that there is a hesitation, whether it's in gear or not, when I hit the footfeed. I get a delay when I hit the gas to take off from a stop or when I hit the gas to pass someone. I don't know anything about the maintenance on this truck other than what little I've done to it since I've had it. Not sure whether it may be bad tune up parts or O2 sensor. A vacuum leak perhaps. Since the computer controls spark advance rather than having a distributor, I can't adjust that which would leave me thinking O2 sensor, except that I don't smell the extra fuel in the exhaust that would be the computer's answer to the problem. The only downside to trying to trace down a vacuum leak if that's the problem is automaker's insistence in so many vacuum lines. I'll try getting the coeds run and see what they say. Would be nice in a way if the truck were a bit newer electronically. The newer computer systems in vehicles will tell you specifically what part is faulty rather than saying that the problem is in a certain circuit. Takes the guess work out of it that way rather than taking it to a shop and replacing several parts before getting the right one rather than going directly to the right one first.
Anyway, hope this helps someone figure things out.

check engine light has been on for a year and a half or more. A couple months ago the truck began starting rough in the morning. (backfiring,smoking unless i give it gas). I put in new spark plugs and wires and it started nicely and check engine light was off. One day later check engine came back on and three days later and it had rough morning start. Could this be under tightened spark plugs?

I kind of doubt it, but check when engine is cold. then scan for codes and check fuel pressure with a gauge auto parts rent it.
https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-fuel-system-pressure-and-regulator

Thank you for your answer. Like you say, I am going to wait until it is cold and check the torque first.

Would you happen to have any other ideas on what it might be would you? I appreciate your help.

Where did you see the smoke coming from and what color was it?

I do not actually see smoke. on the first cold start of the day it pops and sputters and i smell a whiff of smoke. smells like gas i think. I usually try to give it enough gas where it does not sputter much. after that first start it runs pretty smooth the rest of the day although going up hills it pings a bit. Thanks for answering my question. it stopped this sputtering after installing the plugs and wires but today (a few days after installation) it did the same thing on start up.The check engine light came back on in about a day.

What trouble code are you getting?

Since the problem happens on cold start up, I am questioning the coolant temperature sensor. This sensor tells the computer the engine's temperature and then the computer determines the air fuel mixture needed for the engine to run. It could be dumping fuel. Also, a bad fuel pressure regulator could be an issue as well. Since you smell gas, this could be an issue.

would new spark plugs be able to affect the issue at all as they seem to have done? I need to get to the auto parts store tomorrow to check the code, but it seems weird that the problem seemed solved and then came back.

Different feller

Did you get the same ole kinda plugs you had?

Sometimes taking the auto guys advice and using the 'super dooper made in heaven' plugs just don't work out. I've seen folks get those types with the "needle" type electrode plugs, attempt to gap them, but wind up gnarling up the dainty electrode.

The auto parts stores can read your codes, usually a free service. Write down the actual code numbers (not meanings) They will be the most helpful thing everyone has been asking for.

The Medic

My check engine light came on. Mechanic traced it to codes PO171 and PO174, lean bank 1 & 2. Only symptoms of problem is intermittent rough idle. So far we have changed fuel filter, cleaned air intake, checked for vacuum leaks (OK), checked fuel psi (OK). Engine size is 5.4L. Any ideas as to what to look for? Thank you

Hello Thanks for the donation Some info. about these trouble codes are below..

If these inspections all come out clean let me know and I will continue with further troubleshooting. Thanks for using 2CarPros.com!

HI MY NAME IS RAFAEL WELL I HAVE A F-150 4.2L V6 I HAVE THE TRUBLE CODE BU I DONT KNOW WAT IT IS OR MEANS AND NOONE WILL HELP ME AND I CAND SEM TO FIND IT IN THE MANUAL MY CODE IS P-1538 I WANT TO FIX IT BUT IDK HOW OR WAT IT IS IF YOU COULD GET BACK TO ME I WOULD REALLY APPRECIATE IT THANKS RAFAEL

Hi there,

Could you please re check that code as it is not in my list.

mark (mhpautos)

i checked a few places and i cannot find that code either, no record for it. as mark says please rescan :P

sorry but thats the code its p01538 intake manifold runner conrtol stuck open bank 2 thats wat it is but i still cant fix it and im waistin alot of gas with this problem please help new idle control spark plugs wires new egr all that a still nothin please help

ok then, ill tell you what the imrc stuck open bank 2 will be.

and i can see why youd be loosing lots of gas, thats quite the extra air to be coming in!


well first things first, is on the manfiold on the front end are little plastic clips, check around see if they are broken, since they are plastic they break and can cause that problem, autopart stores carry them as its a common item to be replaced.

if thats not it you will be removing the intake manifold, cleaning out the valves and checking to see if it works then, if not chances are the motor that controls them has failed.

I LOOK FOR THE CLIPS BUT I DONT SEE ANY ITS A V6 4.2 AND I LOOK IN THE FORD BOOK FOR MY TRUCK AND I DIDENT FIND IT EATHER AND CAN U EXPLAIN WHAT YOU MENT BY THE MOTOR THAT CONTROLS THEM HAS FAILED ???

Check engine light came on had it coded said it was EGR valve, fixed it after a few miles light came on. had it checked vapor leak had the garage fix it. After a few miles light came on again. After this back and forth several times I have replaced everything to do with the EGR system and the EVAP system has been totally gone through and check engine light is back on after thirty miles. What do I do now?

the motor that opens and closes the runners at certain speeds for optimum performance.

First, you need to list the exact fault code number. There' are a lot of codes related to the EGR system, and they mean very different things. Second, no fault code ever says to replace a part or that one is bad. They only indicate the circuit or system that needs further diagnosis, or the unacceptable operating condition. When a part is referenced in a fault code, that part is actually the cause of the code about half of the time. First we have to rule out wiring and connector terminal problems. Also, be aware the EGR valve itself is not what is monitored. There can be a position sensor on it that is monitored, and flow through the valve is monitored. That means you are just as likely to be looking for an electrical problem as well as a mechanical one.

i cant seem to find the clips you metiond idk wats wrong with my truck im useing to much gas and the truck like jurks at a stop like it wants to turn off or its struglin its the imrc but idk wat all i know is that its bank 2 can u give me a better description or another way how to find out my problem ?????

Well all components related to EGR have been replaced as well as all of the EVAP line's and sensors. Cannot remember all of the codes it has been flopping back and forth between, but it has been EVAP or EGR related.

want to know if you found the problem. having same issues

As I said, it is just as likely to be an electrical problem. You replaced mechanical parts. You have to know the exact fault code number. There are a couple dozen related to each of those systems and they mean different things with different diagnostic procedures. If I were to look at different intermittent fault codes that set at different times, I would start by looking for wires both systems have in common. Typically that is twelve volt feed wires to actuators and five volt feed wires to sensors. There will be splices in the harness that are just ripe for corrosion and intermittent connections. Connector terminals can develop a light coating of corrosion and cause intermittent problems. The fault codes can differentiate between a sensor reporting a defective condition verses a defect in the sensor circuit. Think of that as the difference between a security guard reporting a broken water pipe verses a security guard sleeping on the job. Neither condition is good, but they are quite different.

hay i have a question i have fixed alot of thing on my truck but im still having the problem of the truck at a stop it tugs like a lack of gas air or somethin but no enigne light and it taks a wile to take off very bad throtal respons

My truck back fires wen I igive it gas at a stop or light and if I have the ac on it wants to turn off I changed the spark plugs coil pack intake runner control valve egr valve idle control valve rebuild mortor k@n filter its clean always im always up to date wit my maitnence and my truck still runs kinda bad it bogs wen I give it gas at a stop but after that it ok preformance it lacks a lot and I still don't know y no codes and no check light I took it to a shop were I now the owner and still nothing and im tired of trying and spending so much and still the same problem please help .....

im still having the same problem it bogs down as i accelerate after i pass 40 mph is fine just on my take off it bogs or struggles to go but no check engine light nd some time it sound like theres a vacume leak i dont kn iv had so many problem with this truck nd noone will help so its still the same now my diff is going out i dont have a plug on it so how do i service it its grinding nd maken bad noises from my rear end ......

Shakes or Wobbles problem
1997 Ford F-150 V8 Two Wheel Drive Automatic

My truck started shaking and wobbling a while ago mostly between 60-80 km/h and at red lights. today it started really badly it felt like sitting in a massage chair and the CHECK ENGINE light came on. it would just light up when i was standing at a light when i started rolling/driving it started blinking.
any ideas about what this could be? really need help with this asap.

It sounds like you have developed a sever misfire condition. Your first step is to get the codes read from the check engine light as they should identify which cylinder has the problem. They have a lot of problems with individual coils getting too weak so you would likely be looking at a whole set of plugs and a coil in the offending cylinder/cylinders.

sometimes my check engine light comes on .when i look under the hood there will be water at the resivor where it has come out. i have replaced the themostat.when this happens the truck will go into the limp mode. also the oil light will come on but it is full of oil.i can stop the engine and start it back and it runs fine but the check engine light stays on.i have also replaced the resivor cap.

First we're gonna need you to get your codes scanned. Go to a local parts store like autozone or checkers and have them pull the codes. Let me know what you come up with.

codes said check belt-ok.checkfan-ok. temp sensor-i dont see how the sensor can make water come out of the degass bottle .since i posted mess. i have replaced water pump and fan clutch. same thing .i am stumped

i am having the same problem, even the liquid out side of the resivoir, my truck has the 4.2 v6 tho. if you find a cause and or solution, please post it.

1997 Ford F 150, check engine light came on and it bogged down

Take it somewhere the computer codes can be read, that should point you in the right direction !

Ford Man in Michigan

Have the computer scanned to identify trouble codes. Most parts stores will scan it for free.