engine turns over but won't start

This sounds like a security system glitch that got straighten out when you used the extra key.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-reset-a-security-system

When you turn the key to the on position without cranking the engine over can you hear the fuel pump run in the tank for 5 seconds?

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-cranks-but-wont-start

Please run down these guides and report back.

KK while i have a 2000 ford explorer won.t start it turns over but nothing i have got it started a couple times with alot of boosting and playing with the fuel shut off switch but now that"s not working there is spark and gas is getting to the engine what now??????????

If you have spark and fuel, it should run unless the timing is off or there is no compression.

I have to start with a couple simple questions. Is the spark to the plugs a good hot blue snapping park or is it more orange or white? Also, I understand you are getting fuel, but have you checked fuel pump pressure at the fuel rail? It could be too low or the regulator may be allowing all the fuel to return to the fuel tank.

Let me know.

Joe

Sorry it took so long but i checked for spark it is blue and strong this fuel regulator not sure how to check this since i'm doing this in my driveway would replacing the feul line about a foot of it with the rubber gas line have anything to do withthis fuel pressure

As long as you used high pressure hose, it shouldn't. Here is a how to for checking pressure. It is a video and directions. Check it and let me know what you find.

https://www.2carpros.com/how_to/how_to_check_fuel_pressure.htm

NOTE: You will need a gauge. Most parts stores will lend or rent them to you.

Joe

Car will not start some days. I have full power since all lights are one and radio just will not kick over. I will then jump the car and it will start right up. THis happend every day or sometimes it will not happen for 2 days. I have replaced the battery and had a dull tune up and replaced the fuel filter which was bad.

Check this guide out.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-cranks-but-wont-start

let us know

[quote:aed7817be0="rasmataz"]Hi elwaygirl72, Welcome to 2carpros and TY for the donation

Battery and alternator okay?

If you're talking about its cranking over and W/N start do below and come back with some testing results we move from here.[/quote:aed7817be0]

battery and alternator are fine. Battery replaced 2 months ago and had the alternator checked 2 times and it read fine.

Sorry!

Get a starting fluid/ether/better off gas in a spray bottle and spray into the carb or the throttle body on an EFI. Did it start and die? If not disconnect a sparkplug wire or 2 and ground it to the engine atleast 3/16 in away from ground have helper crank engine over-do you have a snapping blue spark? If so-you have a fuel related problem, check the fuel pressure to rule out the fuel filter/fuel pump/pressure regulator and listen to the injector/s are they pulsing or hook up a noid light. No snapping blue spark continue to troubleshoot the ignition system-power input to the coil/coil packs,coil's resistances,cap and rotor /distributor pick-up coil, ignition control module, ECM,Ignitor camshaft and crankshaft sensors- Note: If it doesn't apply disregard it

My car boggles when i'm idling at a light. and i have been told it's not running on all cylinders. I just had the heads redone do to a blown head casket.

HAs the check engine light come on? Also, it sounds like a bad miss. Have you mentioned it to the shop that did the work and was it running this way when you first picked it up?

Let me know.
Joe

i removed the upper intake on my 2000 explorer, SOHC 4.0, to remove the thermostat housing. after putting it back together it will not start. can you give me any direction.

Recheck to make sure nothing was left unplugged such as injectors. Check for spark and fuel to the engine.

When I crank my 2000 Ford Explorer it cranks normally, but the engine will shudder and won't start unless I give it a lot of gas. Is this a fuel pump or could it be something else? Thanks

You need to test the fuel pressure and system to determine if it is the fuel pump or other fuel related problem.

A bad engine coolant sensor, MAF or some other sensors can cause the problem as well.

If the MIL is inicating, get a scan done to retrieve the trouble code to find out if it is related to the difficult starting

explorer will not start, cranks but does not turn over. Took it in for $300 repair and Idle control valve was cleaned. Worked for a few months but now it will not start.

iac valve will not prevent truck from starting.

fuel pressure is my first check, see if it has at least 45 lbs. if not, you need to check the inertia switch, wiring and relay.

Roy

How do you check fuel pressure? I would hate to take it in and pay an arm and a leg if it's something I can do at home. Where can I find the inertia switch?

you need a fuel pressure gauge.
rf lower kick panel is the location of the inertia switch

Roy

car not used for 12-15 months. engine turns over and will run for about 5 seconds with gasoline squirted into intake manifold. Checked fuses and relays for fuel pump and PCM. replaced fuel pump because I couldn't hear it come on ----but old one was working when connected to 12 volts. New pump runs for about 2-3 seconds with key on, engine off. also replaced fuel filter and double checked orientation of filter.
fuel pressure at fuel rail is less than 10 psi. With fuel line disconnected, get 3-4 tbsp of fuel into a cup with starter turning engine.
???bad fuel pressure regulator? Is this the same as fuel pressure pulsation dampener on this car? Is it
possible that fuel line is plugged with debris or sediment from sitting?

Appreciate any help. thanks.

Hi jhawk7783, Welcome to 2carpros and TY for the doantion You are losing fuel pressure -check the injectors and fuel pressure regulator if its leaking The fuel pressure should be key on engine off 30-65 psi Its not the same thing

The fuel rail pulse damper located on the fuel rail reduces fuel system noise caused by the pulsing of the fuel injectors. The vacuum port located on the damper is connected to manifold vacuum to avoid fuel spillage in the event the pulse damper diaphragm were to rupture. (The pulse damper should not be confused with a fuel pressure regulator, it does not regulate fuel rail pressure.)

The fuel pressure regulator is attached to the fuel rail downstream of the fuel injectors. It regulates fuel pressure supplied to the fuel injectors. The regulator is a diaphragm-operated relief valve. One side of the diaphragm senses fuel pressure and the other side is connected to the intake manifold vacuum. Fuel pressure is established by a spring preload applied to the diaphragm. Balancing one side of the diaphragm with manifold vacuum maintains a constant fuel pressure drop across the fuel injectors. Fuel pressure is high when engine vacuum is low. Excess fuel is bypassed through the fuel pressure regulator and returned through the fuel return line to the fuel tank.

where exactly is the fuel pressure regulator on that engine?
I assumed that I needed to remove intake manifold, but front stud broke. I'll finish that problem tomorrow with more daylight.
thanks for help.

It will look like this on the fuel rail

Could the fuel pressure regulator be part of the fuel pump assembly inside gas tank?

my oil malfuctioned and i lost all oil. my car will turn over but will not start, what cai i do to find the problem

Based on how long you ran the engine without oil is going to determine how much damage was done. If the starter is able to turn the engine over, that is actually a good sign. However, if it won't start, you need to check the basics. First, you need to check if the engine is getting spark and fuel. If you go to our home page under the DIY section, look up both how to check fuel pressure and how to check ignition for spark. Follow the video and directions and check to see if your vehicle is producing both fuel pressure and spark. If you have both, see if the vehicle will start with starting fluid. If it starts and runs for a few seconds, then you're not actually getting fuel to the engine (even though you have fuel pressure to the fuel rail).

Once you determine which is missing, you will need to focus on that system. After you get it to run, you will know how much damage was done to the engine. Pay attention to ticking or knocking sounds in the engine. If they are present, there is internal bearing damage.

thank you. I will do as u say

Let me know if you have other questions.

What to do after replacement of the PCM in order to start the car using original keys?

Good afternoon,

The ECM has to be flashed or programmed to your vehicles VIN number by a shop that has the scan tool for performing this procedure.

Then the key has to be programmed as well.

The cost at a shop is from $195.00 to $230.00.

Roy

Has fire,in time,injectors are working,p.a.t.s. is not an issue,Crank sensor is good new plugs and wires.fuel system is working and has correct pressure.

If you have good spark, proper fuel pressure, the injectors are working, then it has to run unless it has low compression

Each cyl.checks around 150 psi.If the cms were bad would the pcm still send fire to the injectors? this is the only thing i've not tested

Yes

Thanks,i will check the cms tomorrow.By all reasons this thing should start if the cms checks good.

Changed the cms. I have 60-65 psi at the test port on the fuel. rail. tried something odd.I pulled the fuel pump relay and she tried to start.It may be trying to get to much fuel.It is acting like a carb.engine when they flood out. Fuel pump was changed last week. By the way cms was not faulty but change it anyway

I have the SUV listed above xlt and i recently went to try and start it and it didn't start. Hooked up a battery charger, let it sit for 5 minutes and went back to try and start it up and it cranked but no start. i drove it a few months before that for a while and I ran out of gas on the freeway twice with it. So after the first attempt to try and start it with the battery charger hooked up, i hooked up my scanner and found 2 codes, OBD 2 system checks incomplete and p1704 DIG TR failed to transition state. All i have thrown at it was a new battery. I am currently going to try and start with the basics (fuel, air, spark, etc) but any idea on what the code is specifically?

Good evening,

I would start by checking the fuel pressure. when you run out of fuel, it damages the fuel pump as the fuel is not only a coolant for the pump but a lubricant as well.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-fuel-system-pressure-and-regulator

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-cranks-but-wont-start

Check for spark as well. See if the RPM moves up while cranking to see if the crank sensor is sending a signal.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-test-an-ignition-system

Replace the battery.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-replace-a-car-battery

Roy