1999 Ford Explorer annoying chime warning

Hi Jim;
The chimes sure can drive you out of your mind after a while.
Hmmm... the chime goes away,however....it comes back every 30 minutes and stays on for approx. 2 minutes.

That "is" a strange one.

When the chime is sounding is there any indicator on the instrument cluster panel other than the "red" seat belt Icon in the lower left corner "flashing"?

We have to eliminate a possible chime problem that is existing in other places like
....Key in ignition problem... head lights on reminder....possible air bag warning chime etc. etc.

If there is "NO" indicator Icons flashing, can you pinpoint "where" the constant 2 minute chime sound every 30 minutes is coming from ?
Once I know exactly what is happening ...hopefully I can help you out and get the annoying chime to stay off!
All I need is a little more info.

Rick

Rick
thank you for getting back to me so soon I talked to my son who has the car with him in the Navy and he says the seat belt icon goes out after a few minutes whether the belts are buckled or not and the only icon that remains on and constant is the ABS one in the middle of the dash. He stated that the sound he believes is coming from under the seat. I was wondering if nothing else could we at least disconnect it?
thanks Jim

Hi Jim,
Thanks for getting back to me.
The ((ABS)) (Anti lock Breaking System) light constantly on is a warning that there is something malfunctioning with the anti lock breaking system.

I completely understand about the chiming being an annoyance, it starts to rattle your eardrums after a while.
The chime can be disconnected to eliminate the annoyance. But I would make that just a temporary fix.

Jim, you have to think about what is taking place which involves safety.

(1) The connecting of "all" the seat belts front and rear. >>(Ahhhh so what, what the heck)<<
(2) The silencing of the warning chime for the ((ABS)). >>(I need to find out A.S.A.P.)<<

As far as the seat belts....I do not wear them either, I did the same thing on my wife's car and I drive it now and then.

Silencing the chime for the ((ABS)) that gets a little into the danger zone...similar to disconnecting the fuel gauge (Always in wonder of possibly running out of gas) ....and sooner or later....bang...it's 30 below zero on a highway in the middle of a blizzard
"No Gas"!! - Know what I mean Jim?... The ((ABS)) sooner or later could become dangerous.

I have the entire manual on DVD...I will get back to you soon with information on what is causing that ((ABS)) chime to activate and get it fixed.
In the meantime if it was me, I would disconnect the chime but keep in mind it is just a quick fix.

I will get back to you with that information very soon.

Rick

thanks Rick I understand about the safety issue
thanks Jim

Hi Jim; I have a feeling the ((ABS)) "sensor" just might be the problem. It could possibly be the "anti-lock brake control module" but for some reason I doubt it. I can send you a step by step procedure to remove the sensor if you want, just let me know and I will send it right to you. It is a guessing game but I think this is the problem causing the chimes and the ((ABS)) light on in the instrument cluster.

(1) ABS Sensor hold down bolt. (2) Front anti-lock brake sensor Here is some information on the system itself. When the brakes are applied, fluid is forced from the brake master cylinder outlet ports to the "hydraulic control unit" (HCU) inlet ports. This pressure is transmitted through three normally open solenoid valves contained inside the HCU through the outlet ports of the HCU to each wheel. If the anti-lock brake control module senses a wheel is about to lock, based on anti-lock brake sensor data, it closes the normally open solenoid valve for that circuit. This prevents any more fluid from entering that circuit. The anti-lock brake control module then looks at the anti-lock brake sensor signal from the affected wheel(s) again. If that wheel(s) is still decelerating, it opens the closed solenoid valve for that circuit to further reduce hydraulic pressure trapped in the line. Once the affected wheel comes back up to speed, the anti-lock brake control module returns the solenoid valves to their normal condition allowing fluid flow to the affected brake. The anti-lock brake control module monitors the electromechanical components of the system. A malfunction in the anti-lock brake system will cause the anti-lock brake control module to shut off or inhibit the system. However, normal power-assisted braking remains. >>>Malfunctions are indicated by the yellow ABS warning indicator in the instrument cluster<<<. The anti-lock brake system is self-monitoring. When the ignition switch is turned to the RUN position, the anit-lock brake control module will carry out a >>>preliminary self-check on the anti-lock electrical system indicated by a three-second illumination of the yellow ABS warning indicator in the instrument cluster. <<< During vehicle operation, including normal and anti-lock braking, the anti-lock brake control module monitors all electrical anti-lock functions and some hydraulic operations. Each time the vehicle is driven, as soon as vehicle speed reaches approximately 20 km/h (12mph), the anti-lock brake control module turns on the pump motor for approximately one-half second. At this time, a mechanical noise may be heard. This is a normal function of the self-check by the anti-lock brake control module. Pedal pulsation coupled with noise while braking on loose gravel, bumps, wet or snowy roads is normal and indicates correct functioning of the anti-lock brake system. I hope this information helped. Again, if you want the step by step sensor removal instructions just let me know. Rick

I would appreciate if you can send me the details in how to remove the sensor. Is there a sensor on each wheel that might have to be removed?
thanks Jim

Hi Jim,
Yes there are 4 sensors, they are around $22.00 each. That would be $88.00 minimum.

This is a "guess" of what the problem might be.

There are other parts involved such as the "Anti-Lock Brake System (ABS) Module" When you "remove and install" the module it is necessary to configure it using the scan tool.
Using a scan tool... what is going on there is you are flashing information back to the system computer.

I am just making the guess - if $88.00 corrects the problem that will be great. It is similar to chasing sensors for emissions, replacing one and another one needs replacement until you hit the right one.

Here is the step by step procedure to remove the sensor from each wheel.
Torque is in inch lbs. not much at all.
Good Luck and get back to me if you need any more help or suggestions.
Rick

Disconnect the front anti-lock brake sensor electrical connector.

Unclip the front anti-lock brake sensor wire from the vehicle frame.

Remove the bolt.

Remove the front anti-lock brake sensor.
Remove the bolt (1).
Remove the front anti-lock brake sensor (2).

(Installation)

Plug the sensor mount opening and thoroughly clean the mounting surface. Apply High Temperature 4x4 Front Axle and Wheel Bearing Grease.
To install, reverse the removal procedure. Torque bolts to specifications noted (62 - 80 lb/in).

Here is another version
Rick

Instructions
Things You'll Need:

* Electrical grease
* New ABS wheel sensor and O-ring
* Socket wrench set
* Torque wrench

1.
Step 1

Determine which ABS wheel sensor your Ford Explorer will need. You'll want to be sure the new wheel sensor is compatible with your make and model of Explorer. All versions of the Explorer have an ABS.
2.
Step 2

Position the vehicle on a hoist and place it in neutral gear. Remove the front brake disc with a socket wrench when replacing wheel speed sensors on the front wheels. Disconnect the wheel speed sensor electrical connector. Remove the three harness retainers and both pin-type retainers for front wheel speed sensors.
3.
Step 3

Unfasten the mounting bolt for the wheel speed sensor with a socket wrench so you can remove the wheel speed sensor and wiring harness as an assembly.
4.
Step 4

Apply electrical grease to the wheel speed sensor connector terminals before installing the new wheel speed sensor and O-ring. Use a torque wrench to tighten the mounting bolt for the front wheel speed sensor to 115 in. lbs. Torque the mounting bolt for the rear wheel speed sensor to 20 ft. lbs.
5.
Step 5

Connect the harness retainers and pin-type retainers for front wheel speed sensors. Plug in the electrical connector and install the front brake disc for front wheel speed sensors with a socket wrench. Lower the vehicle.

thank you. I appreciated the helpful quick response

Your welcome Jim;
I thought of one more thing.

Whenever a check engine light comes on in the instrument cluster, just about everyone goes to Advance Auto Parts.
Free of charge they connect a diagnostic code scanner to the OBD-II port inside the vehicle. The "scanner" detects the code causing the check engine light to come on and displays the code number and what it is.

That same scanner used for OBD-II diagnostics "just might" detect and display what is wrong with the ((ABS)) system.
It is worth a try - what the heck!

You can contact me if you need any more help.
Just bookmark this page
https://www.2carpros.com/forum/posting.php?mode=reply&t=374726&sid=787d037f85b074e1cd1737ce216ecffd

Good Luck;
Rick