AC Leak

cap it off.

cars have been made with only front AC since they started making cars...

Your back seat passengers wont even notice, as they expect the back to take longer for the cold air to get to them.

(but you might want to get a second opinion about where the leak is) 1500 sounds a little expensive for an A/C line

Ac used to work fine, went to add freon, but heard a pressure loss somewhere below passenger side of the motor, can not find the leak....is there a common hose malfunction in this area I should look for???????

This sounds like an AC hose or the evaporator core is leaking here is a guide to help you pin point he leak and then repair it.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/air-conditioner-leak-detection

and

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/re-charge-an-air-conditioner-system

Please let us know what happens.

Cheers

air conditioner leaking whatsmells like radiator fluid inside cab underneath cup holder. how do i take appart dash to find and fix theproblem

this is coolant leaking from the heater core ?? big job i'm afraid ? HEATER CORE Removal & Installation (Front A/C-Heater System) Disconnect negative battery cable. Drain radiator. Remove instrument panel. See INSTRUMENT PANEL . On 5.4L engines, remove junction block splash shield. Disconnect cable ends from starter relay. Remove junction block bracket. On all engines, compress heater core hose holding tabs. Disconnect heater hoses at heater core. Remove A/C plenum demister adapter screw. Remove A/C plenum demister adapter. Disconnect vacuum line. Remove 2 heater core bracket screws. Remove heater core bracket. Remove 13 screws from plenum assembly top. Remove plenum assembly top. Remove blend door assembly from case. Remove heater core. To install, reverse removal procedure. Tighten bolts to specification. See TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS . INSTRUMENT PANEL Removal & Installation Disable air bag system. See AIR BAG SYSTEM SAFETY article in GENERAL SERVICING. Move power seats rearward (if equipped). Move adjustable pedal to full forward position (if equipped). Release mounting tabs and position power distribution box aside. Remove 3 bolts and remove bulkhead electrical connectors in engine compartment. From inside vehicle, remove bulkhead electrical connector insulator and unclip bulkhead electrical connectors from dash panel. Remove front center floor console (if equipped). See FRONT CENTER FLOOR CONSOLE . Remove lower steering column cover. Remove valance panel. Disconnect Restraint Control Module (RCM). Disconnect blend door harness connector. Disconnect climate control panel vacuum harness connector. Remove left and right sill plates. Remove left and right door opening scuff plates. Move left and right door weatherstrip seals aside. Remove left and right "A" pillar lower trim panels. Remove left and right side assist handles. Remove left and right windshield garnish moldings. Disconnect brakelight switch electrical connector. Disconnect adjustable pedal motor harness connector (if equipped). Remove radio and Generic Electronic Module (GEM)/Central Timer Module (CTM) ground bolts. Disconnect left side main wiring harness and bulkhead connectors. Remove steering column opening cover reinforcement. Disconnect air bag sliding contact and anti-theft electrical connectors. Disconnect remaining harness connectors from steering column. Disconnect transmission range indicator from steering column (if equipped). Remove steering column support nuts. Lower steering column. Remove 3 instrument panel attaching bolts through steering column opening. Remove instrument panel reinforcement bolt (below left corner of cigarette lighter). Disconnect inertia fuel shut-off switch harness connector. Remove right side ground bolt. Disconnect air suspension switch harness connector (if equipped). Disconnect right side main wiring harness connectors. Disconnect blower motor harness connectors. Disconnect Electronic Automatic Temperature Control (EATC) hose from evaporator case (if equipped). Disconnect in-line antenna connector. Remove instrument panel relay cover. Disconnect autolamp sensor harness connector (if equipped). Disconnect sunload sensor harness connector (if equipped). Remove glove box. Wearing safety glasses, disconnect passenger's side air bag module connector. Remove passenger's side air bag module screws. Remove passenger's side air bag module. Remove instrument panel reinforcement bolt below and to left of glove box. Remove instrument panel bolts behind passenger's side air bag module opening. Remove instrument panel bolt on relay bracket. Loosen instrument floor brace bolts and nuts. Remove left and right instrument panel cowl nuts. Remove instrument panel cowl top bolts. With an assistant, remove instrument panel. See Fig. 23 . To install, reverse removal procedure.

Hello
My car is not blowing cold air in the front portion, back air is working fine. We brought it to the auto place, they say they have to run electronic diag. Later they call and say its the temp blend door actuator, also maybe have a sm leak..they say it will cost $700 to fix problem. We tell them ok... They call later for us to pick up the car...they say, we need a thermal expansion valve.. but have to order one.....told us the it will cost another $200+...shouldnt they have cked the valve first, before doing the other job???

The blend air door was the problem. You only have one AC unit in the car. If the rear was working, the system should be fine. However, the blend door will cause you to get heat if it is stuck in the wrong position, so I feel they were correct with that. IS the AC working properly now that you have it back?

Air Conditioning problem
2002 Ford Expedition V8 Four Wheel Drive Automatic

My A/C won't blow air out of the front vents. It works perfectly fine in the rear vents. I have checked all the fuses and there are not frayed wires. What could the problem possibly be?

EATC MODULE SELF-TEST The self-test can be initiated at any time. Normal operation of the system stops when the self-test is activated. 1. To enter the self-test, press OFF and FLOOR buttons simultaneously then press the AUTOMATIC button within 2 seconds. Display will show a pulse tracer going around the center of the display window. The test may run as long as 30 seconds. Record all DTCs displayed. 2. If any DTCs appear during self -test, follow the diagnostic procedure given under ACTION for each DTC given. 3. If a condition exists but no DTCs appear during the self-test, see SYMPTOM TESTS . The EATC system is Inoperative, Intermittent or Improper Operation. 4. To exit self-test and retain all intermittent DTCs, push the blue (cooler temperature) button. The control will exit self-test, retain all intermittent DTCs and turn OFF (display blank). 5. To exit self-test and clear all DTCs, press the DEFROST button. The vacuum florescent display window will show 888 and all function symbols for one second. Then, the EATC control assembly will turn OFF (display blank) and all DTCs will be cleared. 6. Always exit self-test before powering the system down (system turned off). Intermittent DTCs will be deleted after 80 ignition switch ON cycles after the intermittent condition occurs. © 2008 Mitchell Repair Information Co., LLC. NOTE: The EATC module self-test will not detect concerns associated with data link messages like engine coolant temperature or vehicle speed signals. A scan tool must be used to retrieve these concerns. The EATC module self-test will detect concerns in the system control functions and will display hard DTCs in addition to intermittent diagnostic trouble codes for concerns that occur during system operation. The vehicle interior temperature should be between 40°-90°F (4°-32°C) when performing the self-test. If the temperatures are not within the specified ranges, false in- car temperature sensor DTCs will be displayed.
Post the results.

AC was blowing fuse so I had a new compressor put on it. It worked for 5 days and quit again. Didn't blow a fuse this time, and it is full of gas. Any ideas on what could be wrong with it?

Was the clutch replaced with the new compressor? Are you getting power to the clutch? Does the compressor cycle on and off at all?

the compressor isn't engaging at all. I am being told the clutch was replaced with the new compressor, said it was a "complete" compressor. I do not know if the clutch is getting power, how can i tell?

The clutch is usually part of the new compressor, so chances are they are being honest. To check for power, there is a single wire that runs to the compressor clutch. Use a test light or amp gauge to see if there is power to it.

NOTE: Please be careful near the pullies and belt.

Let me know what you find.
Joe

Compressor contunies to blow fuses. I had the Clutch Coil replaced and it worked for about 5 minutes and blew the fuse. the Fuse Buddy shows its only pulling 3.7 amps but its blowing 15 and 20 amp fuses. Now i am told there must be a naked wire between the compressor and fuse box and when i am driving its causing it to touch metal or another wire causing the fuse to blow. I have gotten the climate control wiring diagram from the dealer, and they gave me a pinpoint test printout. However the pinpoint test tells me nothing because i don't have a scan tool. i am told by the parts store it could be a relay, but i cant find an ac compressor or AC clutch relay. Other than a short in the wiring, any other suggestions???

V8 two wheel drive automatic 50,000 miles. It started with intermittent stoppage and finally the front A/C will not blow air at all while the rear A/C will continue to blow air and the air is cold. It is an intermittent issue on top of everything else. There are times when the front unit will turn on just as normal as it should and then other times, it will not turn on at all, while at other times, it will turn on only after the rear unit has been on for awhile.

There is no rhyme or reason as to what makes the front unit decide to come on. I have tried turning the control to reflect the front unit blow air from the top and bottom and I can feel a very slight bit of air flowing from the air vents. When this happens, sometimes the full front unit will kick on and other times it just runs with the very slight air. Other times, the front unit will not blow any air even with the control knob in that position. Yesterday, the front unit worked perfectly as if there was never an issue and this morning nothing.

If it is the blower, I do not know. It seems to me like a vacuum issue as I can hear something in the air vents trying to open or close. Maybe that is what it is? I just do not know but other times, I cannot hear the same sound. Did I help at all?

Okay, When the air does blow from the front, it blows exactly where it is supposed to. But when it does not blow, it does not blow from any of the front vents. So when it does kick on and I have the control set to AC, it blows from the proper AC vents. Does that make sense?

Additionally I am speaking about the AC, not the heater just in case that makes a difference.

It is very frustrating.

The relay wouldn't cause the fuse to blow. You have to have a short to the compressor.

Yes, I understand. It sounds like there is a problem with the blower motor. What needs to be done is this; when it does not work, you need to check if the blower motor is getting power. You can use a test light to check.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-a-test-light-circuit-tester

and

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/blower-fan-motor-works-on-high-speed-only

(There is an excellent post eight entries down)

with the vehicle only two and half years old and at 50,000 miles, would it sound to you more like an electrical issue or a blower motor needing to be replaced? In either way, what you expect the cost for repairs to be at a typical automotive and reputable repair shop? Thanks.

Honestly, I would think it has to do with a bad ground, but I would have to check it. If there is power to the motor and it does not run, either the motor is bad or there is no ground.

As far as the cost, the motor will be under a hundred dollars from a parts store. The labor should be no more than 1.5 hours.

Thank you very much for all of your input and guidance. You have an awesome website and offer a great service. If you believe in heaven then you will have a seat saved for you there as you are truly giving back to the community and you treat us morons like regular people. Thank you again and have a great evening. Chris Bailey

Chris,
I do believe, and I hope you are right. However, you are not a moron. How can you be expected to know and understand something if no one ever tells you.

I am really glad you like the site. Tell your friends and family to check it out, and thanks for using 2carpros.com.

Take care, and let us know if you have other questions in the future.

Joe

Okay, I am back with more symptoms. One thing I have noticed over the last several days is a common trait as to how to get the front blower to blow when turning on the AC for the first time. This does not work about ten percent of the time so it is safe to say that there is something about this sequence that may be of some use to you when trying to guess what is wrong here (ninety percent success rate). If I start the vehicle from a cold engine and then drive it for about five minutes, and then turn on the A/C system, the front blower will turn on after about five seconds. However, if i try to do this on a warm engine, there is a much lower chance of getting the front blower to activate (less than fifty percent success rate).

Another question I have about all of this is: by prolonging the repair, it has been a couple of weeks now, am i doing any long term damage, or any other type of damage, to the A/C system?

Thank you again for your time and patience.

Chris

It has to be a bad relay. However, you need to check the motor when it does not run to see if there is power to it.

Chris! My expedition is the same! (just seven years later!)

Except, my one, two, and three fan options have not worked for months. Only the highest speed (four) was the only option.. Which was fine, until this weekend when (four) decided to become temperamental- just as Chris explained it. One minute, it acts like it should, then you turn off the car and go about your day, just to get back in and it will not turn on! But, I did notice that when it is about to come back on, you can kind of feel/hear it climbing up a hill, trying to get enough stamina to finally turn on.

And we live in Nebraska, I cannot live without A/C. Well, I suppose I could. No, I mean, I would cry and complain. I need A/C in my life!

Joe, I am glad you all have this website! Now, just have to convince my husband to try (haha) to figure it out, or find a mechanic that can get me in and out in a reasonable fashion and not take me for a ride.

Peace to you both!
Paige

Hello,

Two things come to mind for this problem. First is the blower motor controller itself is going bad which you can confirm by flowing this guide.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/blower-fan-motor-works-on-high-speed-only

Here are some wiring, relay and component diagrams (below) to help you do further testing and get the problem fixed:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-a-test-light-circuit-tester

and

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-an-electrical-relay-and-wiring-control-circuit

Please run some tests and get back to us we are interested to see what it is.

Cheers, Ken

Just to add to the discussion. I have a 2008 Expedition EL and was having the same issue. After troubleshooting following your advice, I ended up at the blower motor under the passenger side dash. I noticed condensation on the black duct-work which I assume is from lack of air circulation. Anyway, the blower was not turning until I hit it. It then began to spin and I had cold air. This lasted until I turned the engine off and restarted the next day. no air. Wiggled and hit the motor until it started to turn. Reminds me of brushed motors in radio controlled cars. Once they are spinning, they will continue to spin. However, once they stop, the brushes can prevent restart until they are "helped along." Anyway, just ordered a new motor from amazon for $50.00. For those interested, the motor is just held in place by the housing which is twisted in place. Quarter turn counter-clockwise and it falls out.

Great addition to this thread! Please feel free to help out whenever you are on the site. :)

I remember those radio controlled car days, they were the best.

Cheers, Ken

My 2015 Expedition EL is doing the same. Will not blow from the dashboard. Intermittent. Mechanic already replaced the blower motor. Also, not sure if it is related, but my backup camera only works half the time. Other times it is scrambled or black. Ideas?

I do not think the two problems are related. If you can start a new question for the back up camera problem it would be great.

Please post your question here:

https://www.2carpros.com/questions/new

When the air is not blowing from the dash can you hear the blower motor working or is it silent?

Cheers, Ken

2016 Expedition will not work on high or max AC. Replaced the resistor and blower motor.

Your car is much newer than the one in this post can you please start a new question?

Please post your new question here, you must be logged in.

https://www.2carpros.com/questions/new

We will be glad to help you.

Cheers, Ken

I was having a similar problem with my 2008 Expedition LX KingRanch. The rear blower worked fine, but I was having intermittent blowing from the front blower. When the blower DID work, it worked as expected. It was either all or nothing.

I replaced the blower resistor but it did not fix the problem. I tested both the old and new resistors with an ohm meter and they were both fine. I tested the connector to the resistor with a volts meter and it was fine. I then went to test the connector to the blower to see if it was getting power and this is when I discovered the true problem.

Upon loosening the blower and removing it, it started spinning, much to my surprise!! At this point, I know that it was either a loose blower connector or a bad/faulty blower. In my case, it was a bad blower. There was a dead spot in the bushings. There is a little access cover that you have to remove to drop the blower. Until I was able to replace the blower, all I did was (with the power to the blower turned off!!) reach my finger into the access cover and advance the blower a little bit off the dead spot. ShaBAM, it would work fine. Until I shut it off on a dead spot again.

The take away is, if it is not a resister problem, check your blower to see if you have a bad connection or a bad/dead spot in the blower bushing.

Great addition to this thread! Please feel free to help out whenever you are on the site. :)

Cheers, Ken

I am traveling in a rental Ford Expedition. And after two weeks the AC/heater in the front stopped working. I have to return to California from Duluth Minnesota. After reading the thoughtful repairs I asked my wife to kick as hard as she could under the glove box. She did not kick very hard. However, it worked perfectly! Her kicks were enough to effect the wire harness connection. Thank you for illustrating the issue. We can now make the drive.

LOL. Good to hear! please use 2CarPros anytime we are here to help.

Cheers, Ken

I am having AC issue with my 2006 expedition. I only get cold air when traveling at highway speed. It blows hot air as soon as I stop/slow down or traveling at 35 or 40 mph. I cleaned radiator grill replaced fan clutch and recharged my system. Found no leaks in the system. I am now out of idea's. Any help will be appreciated.
Thanks
Alex

Hello,

This sounds like the compressor is going out but to be sure here is a guide to help you check the high side pressures and if bad a guide to help walk you through the compressor replacement.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/re-charge-an-air-conditioner-system

and

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/replace-air-conditioner-compressor

Please run down these guides and report back.

So I replaced the fan clutch, new compressor, new accumulator and recharged the system on my SUV. The AC still goes hot when stopped at a light. Not warm but hot and takes a little driving to get it back to cool. Plus basically replacing the AC system the air isn't as cold as my other vehicles. Do I have a condenser issue, possible vacuum issue? Again I am at a loss. Happy 4th to you all.

When the AC is blowing hot can you please feel the large AC coming from the evaporator core at the firewall to see if it is cold?