Why Does My Engine Crank Excessively and Hard to Start?

This can be caused by a weak fuel pump but the be sure theses guides will help us see what's going on.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/engine-cranks-excessively-before-starting

and

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-fuel-system-pressure-and-regulator

Please run down these guides and report back.

Go call I check out the guides and they helped me see that the fuel pump was weak so I got new one and installed it everything is back to normal and the engine seems to have more power than you so much this site is great!

I have this 2001 Ford Expedition V8 5.4. It would start up quickly, now it cranks for maybe 5 seconds before starting. It is also running kind of sluggish. Any ideas what could be causing this? Tune up has already been done.

Has the check engine light come on? Have you checked fuel pump pressure? Is the engine missing?

No check engine light, fuel pressure was checked when the new fuel filter was placed which was OK. Engine is not missing. Starting did improve with the fuel filter, but the hesitation is still there. I noticed it starts hesitating and shifting hard when driving for a long period of time. Runs great when cold.

Without an engine code, it makes it tough because many things can cause it. Has the vehicle been tuned up reciently? Have you ever had the injectors cleaned? Have you ever checked the catylatic converter to see if it is plugging?

Sorry I have so many questions, but without a light, it's a hit and miss.

Hi-
We started having to do two cranks on the car to get it started, but once it starts it's fine.

We checked the codes and it's throwing PO171 and PO174 lean both banks.
Service engine light is on.

THINGS DONE ALREADY:
Undid positive cable (should I have done negative???) on battery before working on MAF
I cleaned the MAF with the correct cleaner. Removed air filter and sprayed it well.
Reconnected battery cable.
SERVICE ENGINE LIGHT IS OUT AND IS STAYING OFF at least for 4 days sofar.

BUT car is still long starting. Either takes a long crank to start, or we mostly do two cranks. BUT it always starts on the second crank.

Car runs totally fine. no noticeable change in fuel economy or performance. Drives the same.

ALSO IMPORTANT TO KNOW:
-Brand new Ford Spark Plugs
-New Gas Filter
-New Oil Change
-New Battery
-Not a new air filter, but coming soon in a week or so.

=========================

I'm wondering if the computer is still resetting the starter mix, but it just seems like it has not enough gas to start on the first crank.

What do you think?

We had no problems at all until the long cranking started.
First did the fuel filter
then did the plugs
then the MAF

I would suspect that you have an intake leak.which would have to be checked for on a stone cold motor in order to find it.i would suggest that you have a shop with a smoke machine diag it for you.

where would the intake leak possibly be? I've read that it can be a vacuum hose.or something.

I'm an american but live in the rural philippines, and might not find a diagnostic like that.

Is there a way I could check the hoses, etc a different way?

the leak would most likely be at the area where the intake bolts to the heads,but you will only be able to test for. it on a stone cold engine.there are other ways to test it,but I am not crazy about them,as the require flammable liquid to be sprayed on the engine,i would search around and see if you can find some one there who can do the test for you.or you may want to look on you tube for intake leak tests.

Possible its a dirty intake air valve?
Some forums also suggest the fuel pump pressure thing that maintains system pressure.
i can clean the iac

yea,theres a lot of things that it could be.try this,next time you start it up cold ,instead of cranking it just turn the key on for about four seconds then turn it off for about four seconds,repeat this about three times then crank it and see if it's better.if so then I would say that you have a fuel pressure or volume issue.let us know.

We had a bad IAC... It's been replaced. The vehicle is now hard to start. It cranks between 5 to 10 seconds before firing. It will start and run at 700 rpm.. but may drop to 400 rpm's for some reason that I can't figure out. If you drive it, it will drive fine for a while, and then suddenly the rpm's will drop and all engine power is gone. The engine is running somewhat roughly, but stepping on the accelerator produces no forward movement. I have to pull to the side of the road, turn the engine off, then restart it. sometimes it will move out normally, but most times it will repeat the drop in rpm and have no power.

Any ideas?

Hello,

I would double check the electrical connector the the IAC for a pinched wire or maybe unwanted resistance in the connector, I.E. dirty. Also ensure that both the electrical connector pins and the pins on the IAC are not bent or damaged in any way. If that checks out, than it sounds like you probably need to clean your vehicle's throttle and throttle bore. What happens is you get a black sludge over time, which is normal wear and tear, inside of the throttle body. After a while, this sludge will build up and the Throttle Position Sensor(TPS) will go haywire as a result. Your vehicle will also go haywire without this input and go into "limp mode". Here is a more detailed explanation of what's going on and how to fix it in the link below:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-a-throttle-body-works
https://www.2carpros.com/articles/throttle-actuator-service

Please go through these guides and get back to us with what you find out.

Thanks,
Alex
2CarPros

You should also check the back pressure on the exhaust. You may have a broken catalytic converter causing a stopped up exhaust. These will act up intermittently because the honeycomb material inside will roll around and stop up the exhaust intermittently, then sometimes it will act normal. You can actually take the exhaust loose at the flanges and try to drive it a short distance and see if the engine runs normally.

Thank you very much for the advice! I'll look into each of these solutions and get back to you with the results! Your help is very much appreciated!
Rick

You're very welcome!

Just today I was able to look again at the SUV running issues that I had described above. I found the problem... It turned out to be a wiring connectivity problem. The wiring harness plug had an oily film on it, and I realized that the locking clip had been broken off, from a previous part replacement.
So, we cleaned the plug as best we could. I will get some CRC and clean it thoroughly very soon, but today we used alcohol and a toothpick, which was the best we could do.
Putting the plug back in place we used a strip of Gorilla duct tape to secure the plug in place. Then attempted to start the engine. It fired immediately, although didn't start until the third time. After the cylinders cleaned themselves out from the unfired fuel, it ran perfectly, with full power.
Thank you so much for the advice from those who offered! I will complete the thorough cleaning today or tomorrow, after getting to town to get the CRC.
Again, thank you... Your help has been invaluable again!
Rick

You are welcome. Please return anytime with your automotive questions.

So checking out the electrical connection on the IAC was an excellent call! It definitely needed cleaning, and I discovered that the locking clip meant to secure the plug to the valve was broken so it was not holding the plug in place, in fact, it was allowing it to back off from the valve. I cleaned it thoroughly with MAF cleaner and reinstalled it. The engine started and ran perfectly. However it still cranked a long time before firing. As it all turns out, the fuel pump was beginning to fail too! One problem, happening at the same time as the other made it harder than it needed to be.

Gotta keep an open mind.. consider all possibilities.

Thanks again for your help!

Very true, having multiple issues at the same time can make things very interesting to work with. Especially if they are related items.

Awesome! I have an older expedition myself and I replaced several parts along with the fuel pump at 150,000 as a preventative measure because I see them fail at roughly the same mileage all the time at my dealership! I'm glad you got it resolved!

I have recently had problems starting my expedition. I could start it by pressing the gas while starting --although this was a new development. Then it would run well after it had warmed up. Now it wont start and but for a few seconds, then the idle fails and i try again. I have also tried to start while giving it gas and now it wont do that. I have started it without depressing the gas pedal and the idle fails after a few seconds, especially if i try to give it gas.

Hi:
This could be caused by many things, Idle air control, throttle position sensor... What I recommend is to have the computer scanned at a nationally recognized parts store. Most will do it for free, and it will direct us as what needs repaired.

Let me know what you find.

Joe

The rubber elbows in the vacuum lines that run along the fire wall at the back top of the engine may be deteriated and leaking.

Did anyone figure out this problem I have a 2001 Ford Expedition XLT automatic with a hundred fifty thousand miles on it and since October so for about three or four months now but it will start right up if I get gas like so it starts but the idle falls and usually if I give it some gas it starts right up perfectly but if I'm parked at any angle or not completely on flat ground send it has a hard time starting like today I've tried to start it a few times and it be at idle won't hold I replaced the alternator so I'm not sure what it could be

Have you checked your idle air control valve?

On several occasions we have had trouble starting the truck when the outside air temp. is below 20 degrees. Once we had the truck towed & after being inside & warming up for 2 hours it started right up. We had the same problem today & we were out of town. Someone suggested we place a torpedo heater under the truck & in 2 minutes it started. Is this a problem with other trucks? Do you have any idea what could be the problem?

Has the check engine light come on? My first guess is a bad temp sensor. The sensor tells the computer what the outside temp is and the engine coolant temp is. From that, the computer determines how rich or lean to make the fuel mixture.

However, what I really need to know is the following. When this happens, have you ever checked for spark and fuel to the engine when it doesn't start? Chances are one is missing and I need to know which it is.

Here is a how to for checking both:

https://www.2carpros.com/how_to/how_to_check_fuel_pressure.htm

https://www.2carpros.com/how_to/how_to_test_an_ignition_system.htm

When this happens, check both and let me know what you find.

Joe