Rough Idle

Is the check engine light on? If I'm correct, that's the variable cam timing engine. There will be a connector on top of the engine at the front of the engine(through the valve cover), and there will also be one on the side of the head (between the radiator and engine, and near the rear of the head). If so, unplug the connector on the side of the head. That's the cam sensor. See if it smooths up. I had one not too long ago doing the same thing and, when I unplugged that sensor, it ran perfect at idle but not a lot of performance on the road. I replaced the cam sensor and all was well!
I would suggest installing the factory plug as well, I have seen many issues arise after the installation of those plugs if they are the platinum ones

Jason, no, the engine light is not on. I'll check tonight to see if it is a variable cam engine, and if the sensor is where you suggest. I'll give you some more feedback tomorrow.

Thank you.

My Escort did the same thing and they did a full tune up with all factory parts and the miss went away.. Hope this helps you

1999 Escort wagon 48k miles 2.0l sohc spi. I have replaced the plugs, wires, air and fuel filter. I've cleaned the MAF, idle air control valve, EGR, PVC, checked for vacuum leaks, and I still can't get it to idle smoothly. I had it scanned for codes at the Auto Zone-none. I've been told the 2.0 sohc engine isn't a smooth running engine. Any suggestions, thoughts or ideas would be greatly appreciated.

where do you get your gas if you go to the same place to get gas try some where else I had the same problem with a dodge neon the gas I was buying was bad gas from AM PM now I only go to chevron

They arent the smoothest but.....have you checked spark at all coil terminals? Compression test to be sure you arent chasing a low cylinder? Did you use OEM parts?

[quote:4bd8d328c3="2CarPro Jack"]They arent the smoothest but.....have you checked spark at all coil terminals? Compression test to be sure you arent chasing a low cylinder? Did you use OEM parts?[/quote:4bd8d328c3]

Yes I did use OEM parts. I have not checked the spark at the coil terminals, I assumed the coil was ok based on terminal cleanliness and the fact the plugs while worn all had the same color, light tan. I haven't done a compression test because I don't own a tester. All the work I have done seems to have made it run better but, I just wish I could get it to idle a bit smoother. The funny thing is the engine does't shake at idle, it just seems to vibrate like the timing is retarded or it's too rich.

1999 Ford Escort 4 cyl Automatic 84000 miles
----------------------------------------------------------------
My Ford Escort recently started idling very roughly. It always vibrated a little when I was stopped at red lights or stop signs, but over the course of the past few months, my entire car has started shaking violently. I've started popping it into neutral because that seems to help, although only very little. Is this something serious, or can it be fixed quickly and inexpensively? Thank you!

Check the idle speed control motor, throttle position sensor and mass airflow sensor.

The car idles ok until the air conditioner is turned on then it begins to vibrate, the idling gets very rough. If it is in drive gear with the brakes applied and with the a/c on, the vibration gets worst al the car shakes. What can be causing this? All engine & transaxle supports are new.

Try cleaning out the idle air control valve and passages and see what happens

For some time now we have had a problem with really rough, shaking vibration when the car is in drive, but not moving. As soon as you hit the gas, the shaking stops (or becomes unnoticeable). The shaking starts again every time you come to a stop. It also goes away if you shift out of drive. We have had two motor mounts replaced (transmission and front). We were told that the other two were ok. Since the shaking continued after the new motor mounts were installed, the mechanic said, well maybe the other two mounts, while not broken, were worn enough to allow movement. He also checked for vacuum leaks (found none) and replaced a collapsed hose on the pvs valve.
There are no "service engine soon" lights or other waring lights.
Can you tell me what can still be causing all the shaking?

Engine running rough or misfiring can be cause by the following:

1.Defective spark plug
2.Inadequate spark/coil,defective spark plug wire.
3.Lack of compression
4.False air leakage.
5.Faulty fuel injectors.
6.Insufficient fuel pressure.
7.Contaminated fuel.
8.EGR valve that is leaking.
9.Oxygen sensors.
10.Throttle position sensor.
11.Idle air control valve.

Car idles rough at stop sign with car in drive. Car idles fine when in parking lot in park / neutral. At stop sign, it smooths out if you press on the gas just a bit while managing brake. As soon as you accelerate away from stop sign, the car runs fine and runs great at higher speeds, to include full highway speeds. Car has never had fuel filter changed. Could this be it?

My escort has a rough idle. The engine shakes a little while in park, but will shake worse in the first couple of gears. After I pick up speed it is not as bad. While I'm park, if I turn on my AC the whole engine will shut off. Also if I try to turn on the AC with the engine reving, the belt will slip.

Hi Nightstyle,

Get the AC belt tension checked and adjusted.

What is the idling speed?

Engine Performance problem
1995 Ford Escort 4 cyl Two Wheel Drive Manual 110k miles

Hi. I have a 1.6 16v escort zetec. Poor idling, sometimes sits with revs too high on tickover sometimes hunts and often stalls at junctions.If I remove the connector from the throttle position sensor the engine runs fine (though this is maybe because the removal is being compensated for by the emu?) . I have tried replacing the throttle sensor and this makes no difference. I have cleaned the idle control valve. cleaned the crankcase breather valve, checked to the best of my ability for vacuum leaks in the multitude of vacuum pipes and carefully checked/cleaned the air flow meter. Through research I have come across other potential causes listed below. Can you please tell me if any/which of these are the most likely cause?
1. Exhaust o2 sensor
2. Coolant temperature sensor
3. Road speed sensor
4. Pulse air injection solenoid

Is there anything else you may be able to add to this list.
This appears to be quite a common fault with a lot of possible causes.
Help!!!!

With Ford it's usually a bad IAC, even if the check engine light doesnt come on.

Hi. I have cleaned the IAC/Idle control valve. It was quite coked with carbon but clean now and no improvement.

IAC valves usually DO NOT improve with cleaning! Ford recommends replacing if they are badly carboned.

I have now replaced iac valve, still no improvement any more suggestions?

Have you read the codes yet? You may have a vacuum leak, get a can of spray throttle body cleaner, spray the vac lines and maniflod area, when the idle changes, youve found the leak! You want the engine running and spray on the outside but do direct the stream onto the hoses, if it is a vacuum leak, the engine idle will change speed, then you have detected a leak, repair the vacuum leak and see how it runs! do this and count the flashes...Count the flashes, a 22 will flash as 2 flashes then a short pause, then 2 flashes, if more than one code is stored, the pause will be longer. The codes will display three times and end with 11 or 111. Write them down and post here. First do this with the ke on engine off, then again with it running.

The difficulty I am having is I cant seem to find your engine in a 95!?

Hi. I have checked/tested for vacuum leaks. No I haven't checked the codes. Are you able to give me some guidance or direct me to a site detailing how the codes are read?

i have a ford escort Zx2 2.0L duel overhead cam
it starts to idle rough after i have been driving a while and also will die when i push the clutch in to down shift as when i am slowing to make a turn. any ideas of what may cause this.

If your DLC(data link connector) looks like this, read em this way.

EQUIPMENT HOOKUP Using Analog Volt-Ohmmeter (VOM) 1) Turn ignition off. Locate Data Link Connector (DLC). See Fig. 1 . Connect positive (+) lead of VOM to PCM STO terminal at DLC and negative (-) test lead to engine ground (GND). See Fig. 2 . Set VOM to 0-20V DC range. 2) Connect a jumper wire between ground and PCM STI terminal of DLC. See Fig. 2 . Using Malfunction Indicator Light (MIL) Check MIL operation. Turn ignition switch to ON position. If MIL is on, MIL circuit is okay. Go to next step. If MIL is off, go to CIRCUIT TEST MIL. After performing CIRCUIT TEST MIL, return to this procedure. Connect a jumper wire between ground and PCM STI terminal of DLC. See Fig. 2 . Using Super Star II Tester 1) Turn ignition off. Connect color-coded adapter cable leads to Super Star II tester. Connect service adapter cables to vehicle Data Link Connector (DLC). See Fig. 1 . 2) Connect Super MECS Adapter (007-00049 or 007-00052) between adapter cables and vehicle DLC. Slide adapter switch to EEC/MECS position. Slide Super Star II tester switch to EEC/MECS position. Using New Generation Star Tester 1) Turn ignition off. Connect power cable and data cable to scan tester. Connect Rotunda Super MECS Adapter (007-00052) to scan tester data cable. 2) Plug matching connector on Super MECS adapter into vehicle DLC. Slide switch on Super MECS adapter to PCM position. Plug power cable on scan tester into cigar lighter or use battery adapter. Using Aftermarket Scan Tester Follow manufacturer's instructions to hook up equipment and record trouble codes. Fig. 2: Identifying Data Link Connector Terminals Courtesy of FORD MOTOR CO. NOTE: After performing equipment hookup, follow appropriate quick test procedures based on type of equipment being used. See QUICK TEST. Page 1 of 1 TESTS W/CODES - EEC (1.8L) -1995 Ford Escort 4/20/2009

Inspect and test the MAF and TPS sensors and also check the EGR valve and clean out the IACV

2000 Ford Escort ZX2 very rough idle. Was told this was a natural trait to this car model. Anyone know of a fix?
91,000 miles idle smooth if held at 1000 RPMs rough idle at any lower RPMs.

They are a little on vibraty side, but should idle poorly. Does it run rough, or just have a vibration?

[quote:598274386f="Service Writer"]They are a little on vibraty side, but should idle poorly. Does it run rough, or just have a vibration?[/quote:598274386f] vibration below 1000rpms.headlights shake. front end sounds like a deisel engine.motor mounts replaced at (42,0000).new plugs& wires.

Three suggestions: try an air induction service. Cleaning the throttle bore and intake valves.

Check for the fuel tank to be loose enough for there to be play in the straps.

Check for a bracket/brace touching the transmission pan.

I assume the engine is performing okay.

I have a 1995 Ford Escort wagon 1.9. I changed my IAC, changed pcv valve & put new spark plug wires on & cleaned my battery cables and it still idles rough. The idle drops to 500 rpm's then goes back to 750 rpm's when I come to a complete stop everytime.

Hello,

Ok, you replace the plug wires, what about the Plugs themselves?

Oh, also check for vacuum leaks.

I took the plugs out & they we're in great shape... I looked for vacuum leaks also....

Ok, is engine light on? If so get codes read and post them.
Also, FYI, Just because a plug looks in good shape doesn't mean it is working properly. I have seen plugs that have cracked were the ceramic meets the metal and the spark is jumping to ground causing a misfire and a rough running engine.

Another possibility is the MAF (Mass Air Flow) Sensor.

Could it be the EGR valve??

Yes, it could be the EGR. I start with the simplest possibilities first with a rough or misfiring engine condition.

I mensioned the MAF cause it can easily be cleaned with some MAF Cleaner. You can also disconnect it, the computer will go into a default mode and your vehicle will run normally.

And since you brought in the EGR, it could also be the EGR Control Solenoid or the EGR Pressure feedback Sensor.

Other possibilities are.....

Exhaust Leak

Faulty Injector

Weak Fuel Pump

Blown Head Gasket

Is the engine light on? If so get codes pulled will help narrow the field.