1999 Ford Escort Removing transaxle pan

Do not use the old gasket, you will see the bottom part dump with transmission fluid after few hundred miles and you will always check the transmission fluid level every few days.

I just replaced a filter and gasket (115,000 miles). With the front of the car raised up. First, put a jack support between the transmission and engine on the metal bracket holding the exhaust. Then, remove the cross member (4 bolts). Then, the transmission support (2 bolts, 4 small nuts of the transmission rubber mount, and 2 big nuts). The big bolts and nuts, if you can remove easily, great. If not, I have to use the 24 inch breaker bar wrench to remove it.

If you bought the aftermarket filter, it is probably made of plastic. The original is metal (expensive). Also, repair manual says 6 quarts of fluid, I only put almost 3 quarts. So, just to make sure. Start with almost 3 quarts. Start engine, with the brakes and hand brake applied, shift the shift lever on all gears back and fort for few times. Then, put in park with engine running at idle. Check fluid level, should be on the bottom 20 degrees line when the engine is cold and upper top line when the engine is in normal hot temperature. Then work your fluid from here if it needs more. Do not overfill. The top line in the dipstick is the maximum when hot.

By the way, check your transmission rubber mounts. Most probably cracked or broken rubber.

Thanks for the help. I figured that all of this was my only option, but was hoping that there was something else I had to do.

I never (like to) use an old gasket, but I figured I could do this if I had to get it to a shop to finish the job (something I really wanted to avoid since it seemed like it should be something I could do).

Hopefully I can do this tomorrow. Do you know the torque specs on the bolts? I will check the manual as well tomorrow when I do it.

Also, is there a reason that you recommend putting the jack support on the metal bracket as opposed to to frame rails? (It's not apparent to me exactly where your talking about, but hopefully will be tomorrow when I am looking at the undercarriage.)

Beside from putting 2 jack stands on the left and right body rails, the third jack is to support the engine/transmission.
Torque specs.
Small bolts on trans. pan is 70 INCH pounds.
Cross member 4 big bolts 75 to 80 FOOT pounds
Transmission support 2 big bolts 55 Foot pounds
2 big nuts 55 foot pounds
4 small mount nuts 28 FOOT
pounds

In case you are changing the transmission rubber mounts, the new mount that I bought have no nuts included. The new mount uses english nuts, my original mount uses metric nuts. So, remove one nut first and check it with the new mount. The trans. rubber mount close to the radiator is easy to replace, the other one close to the steering column is very, very hard to replace.

Been meaning to post a reply and say this worked. Thanks for your help. Decided not to replace the rubber mounts, though they were shot. Seemed like a hassle. Was this is a mistake?

The only important one is the transmission mount close to the radiator. Make sure the one you buy is for automatic trans. (hydraulic mount). You can remove this mount without removing anything else. Just the two bolts of the mount on the bottom and the big bolt and nut in the middle of the rubber mount. You do not need to remove the center member.