Check Engine Light on?

firstly, check the coolant and oil, and transmission fluid, make sure they are at the correct levels, we should runt he codes this guide will show you how

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/checking-a-service-engine-soon-or-check-engine-light-on-or-flashing

Please run down this guide and report back.

My Escape was just serviced for overheating. The hose going into the Heater Coil and the thermostat were replaced. The car seems to be sluggish in response to giving it power (accelerating) seems to have gone away within two days.

four days later, after a long trip to let the kids visit their Grandparents the check engine light came on. All fluid levels look good. Takes a few seconds for the car to turn over.

retrieve the trouble codes that the engine light has stored. most part stores do this free of charge. let me know what code(s) you retrieve. this will pinpoint the culprit much quicker.

the check engine light is on and I have a code of ses op 171.

This can be an o2 sensor or maybe low fuel pressure due to a bad pump or clogged filter, etc. Auto parts rent gauge for this.
https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-fuel-system-pressure-and-regulator

i am a avid jeep enthusiast and do all my own mechanic work on everything, anyway my aunt asked me to change her oil pan gasket on her ford escape, it was leaking at only 50k miles, the dealer wanted alot of money, so i said yes. boy do i regret it... its been nothing but a pain, removing the exhaust anyway, the gasket was a breeze. the job is done everything is good, so when i give her car back i told her, the air filter was really dirty, you should buy a new one, go to autozone, they might even put it in for you, so she did and they did put it in for her. one her way home the CEL came on, she called me and i told her to go back to autozone to get it diagnosed, came back as a o2 sensor error, i had her reset it, and it came back next day. Now my"NOT blood" uncle is yelling and screaming at her, saying she should have gone to the dealer. i feel terrible, but all i did was unplug the dam sensor and plug it back in, it disconnected easily and everything..

possible reasons:

not disconnecting the battery (didn't really think it was necessary for the gasket change)

the kid at autozone installing air filter (i checked everything, MAS is connected, filter is in correctly and it all looks fine)

any help would be appreciated, i am going to disconnect battery tomorrow and also check for a vacuum leak.

Did you get it figured out? I need to know the exact code that your aunt got..

well my uncle won't let me touch the car anymore!! won't let me reset the battery??? nothing. so my aunt is not going to tell him i am still working on it, when i try to fix this problem..

but anyway, this is what autozone printed for her:


the code is po141 o2 sensor 2 , bank 1

ho2s 12 heater condition

cpu recognized a failure in the circuit

fixes:

o2 sensor replacement

bad connection

check circuit fuse

P0141 OBD-II Trouble Code Technical Description
O2 Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction (Bank 1, Sensor 2)

What does that mean?

This code means that the heated circuit in the oxygen sensor on bank 2 decreases time needed to enter closed loop. As the O2 heater reaches operating temperature, the oxygen sensor responds by switching according to oxygen content of the exhaust surrounding it. The ECM tracks how long it takes for the oxygen sensor to begin switching. It the ECM determines (based on coolant temp) that too much time elapsed before the oxygen sensor began operating properly, it will set P0141. See also: P0135 (Bank 1, Sensor 1).

Symptoms

You will likely notice poor fuel economy the illumination of the Check Engine Light.

Causes

A code P0141 may mean that one or more of the following has happened:

* open or short to ground in the wiring harness
* O2 heater circuit wiring high resistance
* O2 heater element resistance is high
* Internal short or open in the heater element

Note: Typically a failed catalytic converter does not cause this code. You're more likely to see a P0420 code for a failed converter.

Possible Solutions

* Replace oxygen sensor (cannot repair open or short that occurs internally to sensor)
* Repair short or open or high resistance in wiring harness or harness connectors

Bank 1 sensor 2 is the O2 sensor after the cat connected to cylinder #1. Based on the description and the work that you did, it very possible that when you re-installed the exhaust pipe, you either forgot to connect the O2 sensor to the connector, or you pulled the connector too far and it broke, so no continuity, or it just so happened that the sensor went bad. I believe your case is either scenario 1 or 2, unlikely 3. If after to check, you need to replace the sensor, make sure that you get the sensor for after the cat for bank 1 (cylinder 1). They look identical, but they are not the same.

4 error codes reoccur regarding O2 sensor heater circuit. First occurence also showed gas cap problem. Changed that and that code dropped off but no luck on the O2 sensor errors(all 4) . I forgot........15amp fuse keeps blowing the circuit. I replace the fuse, clear the codes and drives fine. It's when I shut off the vehicle the fuse blows. I changed the purge valve but it wasn't fixed. I checked/reseated the O2 sensor connections and for a couple days I was ok. Just a matter of luck? Then.........blown fuse. There was still a slight amount of pressure buildup when I released the gas cap. I'll try another cap. Maybe it's a coincidence.......bad cap. But could I be that lucky.

I saw that another gentleman's posting and he has the same error codes and symptoms.

What do you make of this? I wonder if he got his fixed and what was it? No emissions testing here in KY. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks

How big of donation $$$$ are you looking for? I must have overlooked it in the literature. I'll look again. I have a '93 Nissan with a similar problem.

What do you have for codes ?
which fuse that keep on burning?
gas cap will not cause a fuse to blow
have to check wiring harness check around the exhaust manifold
let me know

I appreciate the feedback. Error codes I'm getting are.........P0443. The mini-fuse that blows is 15A under the hood in the O2 sensor heater circuit. All 4 O2 sensor heater circuit malfunction codes show .... 0135, 0141, 0155, and 0161.

With 4 kids and 6 vehicles on the road I can use all the help I can get. Thank you. I forgot my paypal account information but will gladly dontate.

1st step should be checking o2 sensors wiring if touching the exhaust system
look a melted wire
Good luck

app. 65,000 miles, automatic, had regular maintenance performed. two months ago had alternator/battery replaced. Engine light came on yesterday. Took to dealer, said it was engine problem lost a cylinder. Was told I am looking at a new engine. What caused this? I have extended warranty, but I am wondering what caused this problem, until the alternator was replaced had to issues with this vehicle.

What do they mean lost a cylinder? Something sounds a little funny, especially with an extended warranty and a maintained car with only 65,000 miles.

What codes were in there?

Get a second opinion, regardless of the warranty.

Just got further info from the service technician. The problem is a valve cylinder head that is burnt out. The head will have to be replaced not the entire engine. Still don't understand why this happened on a car that has regular maintenance. Any ideas?

2003 Ford Escape 6 cyl Four Wheel Drive Automatic

whenever it rains my engine light comes on and a horrible smell comes from the engine its not a sulfer (rotten egg) smell i cant drive it for a few days until it dries out someone said it could be the o2 sensors

Check engine light:

Have the computer scanned for code/s-you have a problem within the engine management system that caused the CEL to turn on-This is your starting point of diagnosis,finding out what's going on.

i have 2003 Ford Escape its burning lean fuel and it used up 5.6 gallons driving 44miles and i get 25mpg i can smell fuel coming out the exhaust pipe and the check engine lights on sometimes blinks,i changed fuel filter,sparks plugs, catalytic converter and checked for vacuum leaks need help quick?

Wife has same rig, 'cept it's 2WD. If the Check engine light is on that means the computer is throwing out a Code! To get a accurate diagnosis, you need to have the codes read. You can get this done for FREE at Advance Auto, Autozone, and some other popular parts stores.....Do not take this to heart 'till you get it coded...I suspect you are running "Rich" not "Lean" due to ----"A SENSOR" making your rig remain/ or go into "OPEN LOOP" (Open loop is your car running off of preset values programmed into the computer...just to make it run, but not to its full potential) Computer cars all do this, when you crank-up, the O2 Sensors (others too) are cold and cannot function until they get warmed up and are able to send REAL WORLD DATA to the computer, so it can efficiently adjust the fuel burn. When these sensors do COME ON LINE, the vehicle goes into CLOSED LOOP and Ever Changing, Real Time Data is fed into the computer to make the fuel burn as good as possible. My suspicions are that you have a O2 sensor problem. It might be that one has gone bad, or maybe the catalytic converter replacement left one disconnected or broken. There are several on your car. Insure that if the "Coding" leads you to a O2 sensor problem...Find out which one, as these puppies are not real cheap items, before you replace all 3 unnecessarily! The parts store guys are generally able to explain what the codes mean, and what you may need to do. Let me know how it goes--The Medic___________thats Mama's Rig sorta behind a "Real Vehicle" (mine)

Electrical problem
2003 Ford Escape V8 Automatic

a strange light on the console of my vehicle came on this morning that I have never seen before. "0/0 off, or D/D off" . I am thinking that the check engine lite may have something to do with it? I came on a few day's ago after a deer accident. I have had the car looked at by a local mechanic, and he said that he found nothing wrong with the motor eng. or any major eng problems. This is why I said that the problem could be electrical. I don't know. Help. Mary Stewart

you have turned off the O/D overdrive .. the button is on the gear select lever ??

O/D OFF indicator (if equipped)
The O/D OFF indicator will illuminate when the transmission overdrive has been turned off. The instrument cluster receives a switch status signal via SCP (J1850) line from the PCM.

Drive
The DRIVE position provides all automatic shifts (first through fourth), apply and release of the torque converter clutch, and maximum fuel economy during normal operation. Engine braking is provided in the fourth gear. Fourth gear (Overdrive) may be canceled by depressing the transmission control switch (TCS) that is located on the transmission range selector. Engine braking is also provided in second and third gear with the TCS on.

I have a 2003 Ford Escape. In Oct we had heavy rain and the car sputtered. It stop later that day, believing it was just some water. In Dec. we had heavy rain again and it sputtered so bad I had it towed to an AAMCO. They said I needed a new Catalytic Converter and all the bells and whistles that go with it. The car had 80600 miles on it. The codes on the bill were P0316, P0300, P0304, and P0305. So I had it fixed. A month later, with rain again, it started to sputter again, so I took it back. They said it was misfiring and I needed new Cylinders and bells and whistles again. I refused having already spend $1700 on it and now they wanted $1500 more. The second mechanic said I need the same thing. I showed the second mechanic the first bill and he is saying that the Cylinders were the original problem and that's what should've been fixed. There was no Catalytic codes. Would water make the Catalyic converter make the car sputter? Now the check engine light is on again. My new mechanic says it is the new Catalyic converter, and they used an after market converter. He says I need to go back and have AAMCO put in a Ford converter. By the way I asked for a refund from AAMCO and the said no. Where am I at and what's my next step?

The codes you identifies show cylender misfires. A catalytic converter would not cause this in the rain. If I had to guess, I would say it needed a good tune up and plug wires, not a converter.

As far as the bill, it appears you were really overcharged for a converter. If youi have documentation that indicates the original trouble codes, I would contact a district manager and discuss a refund. They didn't repair the vehicle, and they wern't on the right track to fix it if it had the same codes.

Let me know if you have other questions.

Joe

The check engine light came on in my 2003 ford escape.. 2 codes came up- P0302 and P0316. I am being told that it's the crankshaft that it the real issue here. How much does this cost and how can i fix this?
Thanks!!

p0302 is a missfire on cylinder two and p0316 i believe is a missfire detected on startup within the first 1000 revolutions. nothign about those codes tell me you need a new crankshaft. check the coil and spark plug on cylinder number two. my bet is one of those is causing both lights to come on.

My check engine light come on and went and got it tested. They said it was a censor for the line going from the fuel injector to the transmission. Today when i stoped and was holding the brake the whole car started knocking and it started to cut off going down the road

There is no line between the fuel injector and the transmission. They are not related. I need to know the code they found. Also, when you heard the knocking, was the check engine light on? Was the oil light on?