car turns over but won't start?

Hello,

It does sounds like the fuel pump when out can you hear it running in the tank with the key on?

Here is a guide to help you see what you are in for when changing the pump out.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-replace-an-electric-fuel-pump

Here is how it will be for your car (below) you can find the pump on Amazon for about $140.00 so the rest will be labor.

Check out the diagrams (Below)

Please let us know if you need anything else to get the problem fixed.

Cheers

was doing some service on veh. removed mass air flow, replace air cleaner, sprayed mass air flow with proper cleaner, at that time, noticed throttle body dirty. sprayed throttle body out, reassy parts. veh will not start, All items are pluged in and tighten. veh was running ok before this. put tester on veh, getting code p0232 now, did not have it before. please help. thank you len

That code deals with the fuel system circuit. Can you hear the fuel pump prime when you first turn the key? Have you checked fuel pump pressure? I have no idea why that would come up based on what you did. Try switch the fuel pump relay with another one with the same part number. Also, let me know if both fuel and spark are missing to the engine. When you turn the key to the on position without cranking the engine over can you hear the fuel pump run in the tank for 5 seconds?

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-cranks-but-wont-start

Please run down this guide and report back.

veh will start with starting fluid, found the fuel rail sharder valve, no pressure when key is on. checked fuses and switched relays, still no pressure.

There is a list of things this code relates to. All of them point to no power to the fuel pump.

Here is what I need you to do. Remove the fuel pump relay from the relay box and disconnect the PCM wiring harness. Check for corrosion on PCM connection. If nothing is found, check the resistance between PCM harness and relay harness. If there is less than 5 ohms, special test equipment is needed to continue the circuit. There is an open circuit on the system. If there is more repair wiring or pins.

Here is a list of possible causes for this code:

Open circuit between fuel pump and fuel pump power circuit
Poor fuel pump ground
Fuel pump internal open
Fuel pump secondary circuit shorted.
Fuel pump relay contacts always closed
Open between PCM and fuel pump circuit

I attached wiring schematics for both the 2.0L and the 3.0L. NOTE: The first one is the 2.0

Let me know what you find. Sorry it took long to get back to you. I had to do a lot of reading on this one.

Hi. This Escape won't start. I put my scanner on it and received the following error codes:

FORD.ENGINE.FUELSYS Fuel System Status

(Open/Closed Loop) Open Loop


And also:

P0232 - Fuel Pump Secondary Circuit High

I checked the fuse and it is OK. I don't know how to check the relay. I also don't know where the fuel pump is (Under the front passenger seat?) to check it. What do you think?

Thanks,

Jim Rooney

Check the fuel pressure with a fuel pressure gauge designed for your fuel system and comeback with the readings this is where we start-

Or do below and tell me what happened-let me know asap

Get a starting fluid or ether and spray into the carb or the throttle body on an EFI. Did it start and die? If not disconnect a sparkplug wire or 2 and ground it to the engine -have helper crank engine over-do you have a snapping blue spark? If so-you have a fuel related problem, check the fuel pressure to rule out the fuel filter/fuel pump/pressure regulator and listen to the injector/s are they pulsing or hook up a noid light. No snapping blue spark continue to troubleshoot the ignition system-power input to the coil/coil packs,distributor pick-up coil, ignition control module, cam and crank sensors- Note: If it doesn't apply disregard it

P0232 Engine Fuel Pump ckt

The fuel pump secondary control circuit deals with the fuel pump driver module (another word for computer) which is use to regulate the fuel pump pressure. By using a fuel sensor located in the fuel rail, the engine computer can regulate the fuel pump pressure by monitoring the fuel pump duty cycle.Using this duty cycle range, the computer can determine when to shut off or increase the fuel pressure for optimum engine performance. Therefore, if the duty cycle is below or higher than the targetted range, it will set a code like the above or a code related to the fuel pump secondary control circuit which could have an errant reading. When this happens, the fuel pump driver module will set at a default usually set at 100 % duty cycle. For basic test, check connections of the wirings/grounds related to this circuit by using ATS wiring diagram.

Notes about your fuel injector circuits compared to your fuel pump:

When injectors operate, it pulse or open/close quickly and are monitored in terms of milliseconds beside having a changeable duty cycle. The flow rates for injectors are calculated when they are in a stationary condition which means the injectors are held open all the time. (This is condition is called as a 100% duty cycle). When checking high performance engines, most injectors works best when they are flowing at a 70% to 90% duty cycle. This means that they run 70% to 90% of the static flow rating as specified. In essence, using an injector with this parameter can help decrease heat generated within the motor windings of the injector which lead to premature failure.

NOTE: duty cycle means how much fuel is delivered and also by how long the injector is energized by the computer driver circuit inside the engine computer.

Finally, injectors can also be categorized by their resistance to the electromagnetic force which opens the coil inside the injector body. Such resistance (in ohms) is also called impedance . If you have high impedance injectors, it rates at 12 to 16 ohms while low impedance injectors rates at 2 to 5 ohms. If your injector resistance is not vwithin this range, the injector is defective.

Hi. The information in your response gives a lot of information but none that I can really use. I don't have a helper.

I asked for the location of the fuel pump and you didn't tell me that.

I also asked about the open/closed loop and you didn't address that either. Please address my questions.

I asked for the location of the fuel pump and you didn't tell me that.

1. The fuel pump is in the fuel tank

I also asked about the open/closed loop and you didn't address that eit

2. The coolant temperature and the oxygen sensors controls the closed and open loop-when the engine is cold the CTS controls fuel demand till it reaches a given temperature and switches to closed loop at which time O2 sensor controls the fuel demand. Have these sensors checked out

Possible causes include a bad O2 sensor, excessive fuel pressure (bad fuel pressure regulator or plugged return line), leaky fuel injectors, dirty air filter or restricted air inlet, or a defective coolant sensor that prevents the engine management system from going into closed loop mode

Just today my car was running fine then an hour later i was going to leave and the car would not start it cranks but it sounds slower then usual. The battery is good there is spark and fuel but it sounds like it cranks fast then it slows down right away. i checked the plugs coil and wires and i see sparks and the plugs are still clean.

Hi la1528 and TY for the donation

Double check the battery and connection if okay. Check the starter could be the overrunning clutch slipping if not check the fuel pressure to make sure its within specs and for injection pulses.

there is spark and fuel: what's left here now is verify that the valve and ignition timing is correct. You can have fuel and spark if the valve and ignition timing is off she won't start, wrong firing sequence.

what is (starter could be the overrunning clutch slipping) and how could timing be off? bad tps?

how could timing be off? bad tps? This has nothing to do with your problem -The problem is cranking

If you're so sure that the battery and connectiions are good -Drop the starter and get it load tested.

the starter checked out good the cams ain't spinning and the next day i cranked they spun then today i checked and they ain't spinnin. possibly timing belt?

Camshaft/s not turning sound like the timing belt is stripped doing that

Engine Mechanical problem
2001 Ford Escape Two Wheel Drive Automatic 52000 miles

Did something dumb and washed my wife's Escape and cleaned the engine bay. When I first tried to start it after the cleaning I heard a loud "pop" and from that point on the engine would not start. It sounds like it's trying but won't catch. I checked the fuel pump reset button and it seemed OK. I've also used my air compressor to blow any visible water out of the way. I pulled the PCM connector off and it didn't seem wet inside.

I have WD40 but before I start spraying that I thought I'd check someone to see if it's likely something else. I also pulled one of the spark plug coils off and it didn't look wet.

At a loss to even know what to try next.

Hi there,

Thank you for the donation,

modern electronics and water just do not mix, i feel that you will have to get a diagnostic scan done to see what has not reacted well with getting wet, do you have spark? can you feel the injectors clicking? do you have fuel pressure? all these will have to be checked first, a scan will be your best first option.

mark (mhpautos)

OK, so after drying out a few more hours I finally got the Escape started. But discovered a different (not sure if related) issue. Idle seems fine until 4,000 RPM when there is a SEVERE miss or stutter. Can this be an electrical issue brought on by getting wet?

Yes, i woulds remove spark plugs and clean as they may be fuel fouled and remove all leads and dry ends, try this.

Mark (MHPAUTOS)

I have a problem starting the vehicle. Turning the key to start causes the vehicle to attempt to start only to fail. If I turn the key to on and wait a few seconds and do this again the vehicle will start with no problem. If for some reason it does start on the first try it sputters and then comes to life. After it is started it runs perfect. I have replaced the starter and done a complete tuneup with no success. Please help, how do I fix it without putting it into the shop

All "crank, no start" conditions are approached in the same way. Every engine requires certain functions to be able to run. Some of these functions rely on specific components to work and some components are part of more than one function so it is important to see the whole picture to be able to conclude anything about what may have failed. Also, these functions can ONLY be tested during the failure. Any other time and they will simply test good because the problem isn't present at the moment.
If you approach this in any other way, you are merely guessing and that only serves to replace unnecessary parts and wastes money.



Every engine requires spark, fuel and compression to run. That's what we have to look for.

These are the basics that need to be tested and will give us the info required to isolate a cause.

1) Test for spark at the plug end of the wire using a spark tester. If none found, check for power supply on the + terminal of the coil with the key on.


2) Test for injector pulse using a small bulb called a noid light. If none found, check for power supply at one side of the injector with the key on.


3) Use a fuel pressure gauge to test for correct fuel pressure, also noticing if the pressure holds when key is shut off.



Once you have determined which of these functions has dropped out,
you will know which system is having the problem.

47,000 miles 3.0 Ltr V6 engine.

Over the last 3 weeks I have had problems starting my Escape either in the morning or after sitting in a parking garage for 8 hours. The car starts but dies almost immediately. The last couple of days it has taken about 12 tries before the engine continues to rev...There are no problems once I'm driving.

[quote:26170db171="flgrad91"]47,000 miles 3.0 Ltr V6 engine.

Over the last 3 weeks I have had problems starting my Escape either in the morning or after sitting in a parking garage for 8 hours. The car starts but dies almost immediately. The last couple of days it has taken about 12 tries before the engine continues to rev...There are no problems once I'm driving.[/quote:26170db171]

6yrs has past-when was it last major tune-up?

Is the CEL/MIL/SES coming On

Try checking the fuel pressure with and w/o the FPR if it up to spec's-check the CTS/ECT sensor, IACV/TPS

After driving and shut off engine car won't start and run with out holding accelerator down. If I wait 20 to 30 minutes before I restart the engine it runs ok.

sounds like you could have a leaking fuel pressure regulator causing your car to flood. you can check to see if the regulator vacuum hose has fuel in it, this is a tell tale that it is bad. hope this helps

The vehicle has spark and fuel pressure yet it will not run without a quick start prime. While cranking the motor over, if we hold the key in the start position it will not start. Once it kicks with the quick start and we release the key into the run position it will stay running. Its is like the injectors are not working while the motor is being cranked over. We already changed the ignition switch and the fuel filter., Any ideas?

New update discovered today 5-28-10. Once we get the motor running it willl let you start it repetively within 14 seconds. After 14 seconds it will not let you start it. We purchased a fuel presure gauge and it holds 63 pounds of fuel pressure for 12 hours... It's not the fuel pump... Any help here would be greatly appreciated I am not a newby and have been doing this type of work for 23 years. Got a Honda question I will have the answer. Just ask..

Ok so you have to prime it to start it. I need to know if you have a digital multi meter to do some testing with and can you get a noid light it needed? also is the check engine light on?

Yes, I have a fluke multimeter and there is no check engine light.

Found it.. It was the EGR vacuum solenoid. It was stuck open so that it would run too lean when it was cold and not start.... So if anyone sees this problem I recommend replacing the EGR valve and vacuum solonoid. It may be a common problem because every auto parts store that I called had both parts in stock. Im supprised there are no blogs on this matter. Ohhh well heres the first...

Well Great job Sorry I didn't get back to you quicker but I am still moving to the new house. I am glad you found it and if you have any other questions please just ask me.

Engine Mechanical problem
2001 Ford Escape 4 cyl Two Wheel Drive Manual

I have a 2001 ford escape 2.0 engine with manual transmission. I have a newer battery, bran new ignition coil, and fuses are all good. It will roll over but not start it is getting fuel but does not have spark what could be causing this problem?

Integrated Electronic Ignition (EI) system consists of a crankshaft position sensor, coil pack(s), wiring, and PCM. Coil On Plug (COP) integrated EI system uses a separate coil for each spark plug and each coil is mounted directly onto spark plug. COP integrated EI system eliminates need for spark plug wires but does require input from camshaft position sensor. Coil On Plug The Coil On Plug (COP) ignition operates similar to a standard coil pack ignition except each spark plug has one coil per spark plug. See Fig. 8 . COP has 3 different modes of operation: Engine Cranking During engine cranking, Powertrain Control Module (PCM) will fire 2 spark plugs simultaneously. One spark plug will fire on the compression stroke and the other spark plug fires on the exhaust stroke. Both spark plugs will fire until camshaft position is identified by a successful camshaft sensor signal. Engine Running Once camshaft position is identified and engine is running, only spark plug on compression stroke will be fired. CMP Failure Mode Effects Management (CMP FMEM) During CMP FMEM, COP ignition operates similar to engine cranking mode. This allows engine to operate without requiring PCM to know if cylinder is on compression or exhaust stroke. Fig. 8: View Of Coil On Plug - Typical

A coil in a coil pack is turned on (coil charging) by powertrain control module, and is turned off when 2 spark plugs are fired simultaneously. Spark plugs are paired so that one spark plug fires on the compression stroke and other spark plug fires on exhaust stroke. Next time coil is fired, order is reversed and next pair of spark plugs fire according to engine firing order. A 3-pin Hall Effect type sensor or a 2-pin variable reluctance Camshaft Position (CMP) sensor is used. CMP sensor is used to determine camshaft position and to identify when piston No. 1 is at Top Dead Center (TDC) of compression stroke. CMP sensor signal is used by Powertrain Control Module (PCM) for synchronizing firing of sequential fuel injectors. Applications with Coil On Plug (COP) ignition also use CMP signal to select the proper ignition coil to fire. Crankshaft Position Sensor The Crankshaft Position (CKP) sensor is a magnetic transducer mounted on engine block, next to crankshaft pulse wheel. On all engines except 6.8L, trigger wheel has a total of 35 teeth spaced 10 degrees apart with one empty space for a missing tooth. On 6.8L trigger wheel has a total of 39 teeth spaced 9 degrees apart and one 9 degree empty space for a missing tooth. By monitoring pulse wheel, the CKP sensor indicates crankshaft position and speed information to Powertrain Control Module (PCM). By monitoring missing tooth, CKP sensor is also able to identify piston travel to synchronize ignition system and provide a way of tracking angular position of crankshaft relative to a fixed reference.

I had bought this vehicle for a couple hundred dollars and was told it had a overheating problem. so I limped it home, approximately twenty five miles or so. every time it started to climb into the red I'd shut the engine off put it in neutral and cost to the next exit, let it cool down fill with water and kept heading for home. I did this about twenty or more times before getting home at the stop sign down the block, it it just shut off like it ran out of gas. I've replaced the fuel pump fixed overheating problem. have no water in the oil, getting fuel to the injectors. can anyone help me out with this problem or is the motor shot?

Good morning,

I would do a leak down test in all the cylinders as well as a compression test to verify there is no internal damage to the engine. It sounds like you have head gasket damage but needs to be confirmed.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/head-gasket-blown-test

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-test-engine-compression

Roy

Two days ago it failed to start, i assumed the fuel pump went out, live in temperatures below freezing, extremely low gas. I tried it later that night and it fired right up. Next morning fired right up took it and filled the tank immediately ran errands went home for a few hours, attempted to leave would not start, turns over strong trying to start. This morning started right up! Autozone said O2 sensor bad fuel cap and cylinder four misfiring. my question is can one of those cause the intermittent fuel problem? I changed my cap and put in injector cleaner/water remover.

Hello,

This sounds like a crankshaft angle sensor is failing which can happen without triggering a check engine light. Here is a guide to show you what you are in for when doing the job:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/crankshaft-angle-sensor-replacement

This is what it will be like for your car (below).

Here is a guide that covers all of the bases:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-cranks-but-wont-start

Check out the diagrams (below).

Please let us know what happens.

Cheers, Ken

car quietly stalled at traffic light, have checked spark, injectors, starter, coil, everything i can think of! No sign of overheating, plenty of oil, What else could be possible solution?

DO YOU HAVE FUEL?

BEING REAL SILENT, WHEN YOU TURN THE KEY TO "ON" DO YOU HEAR THE FUEL PUMP TURN ON FOR A COUPLE OF SECONDS?

DID YOU CHECK YOUR FUEL PRESSURE?

THE MEDIC

Yes fule pump working well tank almost full, any other ideas?

Yes is sounds like the crank angle sensor has failed, when this sensor fails it sometimes wont throw a code, here is how you check it https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RvuzZJqQDf4