1988 Ford E-Series Van Did I damage computer?

1988 FORD E-SERIES VAN
175,000 MILES • V8 • 2WD • AUTOMATIC
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JMGRIF
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I mistakenly removed my computer mod while replacing heater core. Now it won't start. Fuel pump does not go on. I hooked up a power lead to it. It goes on,albeit a different sound, still will not start. Hooked up code reader. It reads 000, ignition on or off. Any ideas?
Feb 20, 2010 at 4:46 PM
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DOCFIXIT
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Hi
What type tester ? is it OBDI? If you have an Analog volt meter hook up as in diagram. Test Key On Engine Off arm on meter will swing for code.
Let me know
Thanks for donate
Feb 22, 2010 at 2:03 PM
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JMGRIF
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[quote:3d988f927f="jmgrif"]Computer problem
1988 Ford E-Series Van V8 Two Wheel Drive Automatic 175000 miles

I mistakenly removed my computer mod while replacing heater core. Now it won't start. Fuel pump does not go on. I hooked up a power lead to it. It goes on,albeit a different sound, still will not start. Hooked up code reader. It reads 000, ignition on or off. Any ideas?[/quote:3d988f927f]

It was a OBDI reader, just got an anaolog meter. Have searched my manuals & on this site, still can't figure out how to use meter to get codes
Feb 23, 2010 at 8:21 PM
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DOCFIXIT
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Hook up like this


https://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/198357_Grafic_3_97.jpg

Read codes by counting arm swings


https://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/198357_Graphic_364.jpg

swing pause swing= 11 Also check White fuse link comming off starter relay. Check power to coil
Feb 24, 2010 at 8:58 AM
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JMGRIF
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[quote:4141484f1d="jmgrif"][quote:4141484f1d="jmgrif"]Computer problem
1988 Ford E-Series Van V8 Two Wheel Drive Automatic 175000 miles

I mistakenly removed my computer mod while replacing heater core. Now it won't start. Fuel pump does not go on. I hooked up a power lead to it. It goes on,albeit a different sound, still will not start. Hooked up code reader. It reads 000, ignition on or off. Any ideas?[/quote:4141484f1d]

It was a OBDI reader, just got an anaolog meter. Have searched my manuals & on this site, still can't figure out how to use meter to get codes[/quote:4141484f1d]



I hooked up meter as described in graphic, thanks, meter pegged. 10vlts direct, with ignition off or on, no movement, just pegged.
Feb 24, 2010 at 7:32 PM
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DOCFIXIT
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What about white fuse link? voltage to coil? hook up as in lower diagram just jumper and observe check engine light
Feb 25, 2010 at 8:52 AM
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JMGRIF
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I appoligize, but I cannot clearly read the second chart, tried to enlarge, download to adobe, I can't read it. Is there somewhere else I can look it up. I can only locate 2 relays, side by side, fuel pump & what is looks tobe EEC. It has what looks like 4 fuseable links, that all appear to be intact
Feb 25, 2010 at 9:40 AM
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DOCFIXIT
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Hook up as in lower figure of top diagram Self Test for malfunction indicator light. Did you test fuse links with test light? And was there voltage to coil?
Feb 25, 2010 at 9:47 AM
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JMGRIF
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hooked as in bottom of 1diagram, check engine light is on at test & w/o jumper, not that it was before, if I understand you correctly. Fat link is full time 2 others come on w/ignition, 3rd not at all, tested the conneting blk/grn wire, nothing either. I don't have coil in old school sense, like the one my manual shows, this looks like a transfoemer w/other stuff
Feb 27, 2010 at 1:45 PM
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DOCFIXIT
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Coil has big wire that goes to center of distributor cap check voltyage on Brown or red light green wire + terminal
Feb 28, 2010 at 1:47 PM
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JMGRIF
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[quote:1428bad1e9="Docfixit"]Coil has big wire that goes to center of distributor cap check voltyage on Brown or red light green wire + terminal[/quote:1428bad1e9]

I don't know if pic made or not. The harness w/ red & gn
wires, tested at the harness, read 1.7vlts. between red harness & terminal had no reading
Feb 28, 2010 at 4:04 PM
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DOCFIXIT
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Coil voltage comes from ignition switch was that unhooked ? Fuel pump voltage comes from starter relay.The starter operates right? so ECM does not get voltage from ignition switch neither it or fuel pump will operate
Mar 1, 2010 at 11:19 AM
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JMGRIF
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Starter turns. It dosent seem I am able to upload pic to verify if at the right wire harness.The "coil pack" apprears to have a main & 2 secondary harnesses & controllers? From each it looks like 2 vaccum control lines, 6 total. At main harness, it attached, 40 olms off, 88 on. harness off, leads on red & green wires, 1.7 vlts, w/ ignition on, none off. Between red at harness & its termenal, no reading. "Coil voltage comes from ignition switch was that unhooked ?"I don't know what it means, sorry.
Mar 2, 2010 at 10:27 AM
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DOCFIXIT
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Ignition switch where you put key and turn to start.
On right side engine compartment abovetest link there is the EEC and fuel pump relays. Remove cover locate Red/ Light green wire to EEC key on is there 12v ?
Mar 2, 2010 at 12:42 PM
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JMGRIF
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12vts yes. I didnt know what was meant by "unhooked"
Mar 2, 2010 at 2:13 PM
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DOCFIXIT
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O.K. at fuel injector test for 12v on RED wire key on. If present then put test light on other wire crank engine Does light flash?
Mar 2, 2010 at 3:12 PM
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JMGRIF
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At # 8 injector, blk lead to engine block, both grn & red had 12vlts at harness, pulled off injector & test light flashed on with ignition
Mar 3, 2010 at 10:58 AM
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2 LINSEY
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Thank you for using 2CarPros.com. We appreciate your donation and look forward to helping you in the future.
Mar 12, 2010 at 2:13 PM
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JMGRIF
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I never got a response to my reply, back on the 3rd
Mar 13, 2010 at 4:24 PM
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DOCFIXIT
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Leave injector hooked up test all back probe with test light. Do you have fuel pressure? what is PSI?
Mar 15, 2010 at 10:32 AM
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JMGRIF
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40 psi at schrader valve. I replaced control unit, not knowing what else to do. fuel pump still does not go on. I jumped the the pump & the engine wants to start, but it sounds like its badly timed
Mar 16, 2010 at 9:30 AM
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DOCFIXIT
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You replaced what control unit? the ECU?
Mar 16, 2010 at 12:37 PM
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JMGRIF
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EEC as its called on my old unit , the computer. Like I said before I still have to have jumper wire to get the fuel pump to go. It wants to start, but it sure sounds like its firing wrong
Mar 16, 2010 at 8:43 PM
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DOCFIXIT
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Upper right side dash where you where working there is an Inertia switch that stops power to fuel pump in accident. May have activated should be smalll possibly gray box with two wires and red button on bottom. press red button it will reset switch.
Mar 17, 2010 at 12:18 PM
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JMGRIF
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I tested w/ test light & both leads out of crash sensor light up w / key. The wire at the harness, by the firewall, there is none.
Mar 17, 2010 at 8:51 PM
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DOCFIXIT
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Orange/Light blue wire comes from pump relay so relay is not closing. Check for power at relay TWO terminals should have voltage. Go back and check all fuse links at starter relay with test light
Mar 18, 2010 at 12:00 PM
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JMGRIF
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Fuel relay, yellow full time, o/lb, on for appox 3 sec. red on w/key, ltgray/ltgrn, slowly & faintly comes on. There's 2 fuseable links off battery side of start relay, both hot past fuseable links.
Mar 19, 2010 at 10:38 AM
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DOCFIXIT
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Then fuel pump relay is not staying closed . Orange/lt. blue on for 3 sec is priming what happens to voltage on wire when cranking?
Mar 19, 2010 at 2:30 PM
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JMGRIF
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There is 13 something volts during prime & crank phases.
During this test, the engine fired up & ran for a bit, till I assume it ran out of gas. I jumped the fuel pump & it ran (Idled mostly, except working the the throttell by hand, all be it a bit rough.
Is there a stop betwwen crash sensor & wire harness @ firewall. I checked the fuses, all ok. Have power & at sensor, in & out, at prime & crank.
Mar 21, 2010 at 5:08 PM
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DOCFIXIT
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Is there voltage at fuel pump relay in and cranking?
Mar 22, 2010 at 8:00 AM
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JMGRIF
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Yes, that is where it was tested at.
Mar 22, 2010 at 9:28 AM
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DOCFIXIT
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Then pump should be running
Mar 22, 2010 at 11:40 AM
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JMGRIF
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Sorry not sending last reply, tried once, something got messed up & I forgot to try again. The reason fuel pump did.nt work was a piece of fuseable link between 2 harnesses that supplied power to pump, once it was replaces, it worked fine.
Jun 15, 2010 at 1:39 PM