EGR Valve?

If i understand correctly, the code(s) say that there was a small amount of flow through the EGR system? The computer cannot read the actual flow of exhaust through the EGR system into the intake, but it can measure how far the EGR valve opens at any given time using an EGR position sensor. Your flow may be fine... but the EGR valve isn't opening up very far.
That could be a problem with the EGR valve itself such as a punctured diaphragm, or a problem with the vacuum solenoid (or wiring) that modulates the amount of vacuum to the valve, or a comprimised vacuum line.
Check the valve first by observing it while revving the engine. It should move. If it doesn't move, put a vacuum pump to it. It should open at about 8Hg. Seeing when it opens with a pump should tell you the condition of the diaphragm. Check all the vacuum hoses relating to the EGR system, as well as the operation of the solenoid and the wiring for that as well. Taking the valve off and cleaning all the carbon out of there is a good idea as well. I hope this helps.

I recently replaced my entire exhaust system from factory to true dual high performance and after it was all said and done I have a ticking noise barely noticable at idle but loud as could be at normal driving speed. Could this be a bad EGR valve I had a mechanic smoke it for exhaust leaks and it had none. I have really bad rough idle and a weird ding or bong noise noticable when I slow down to stop at a light or stop sign. I also have a weird smell that burns my nose when I floorboard it, it the smell is very strong that burns my nose like an acid could this be normal due to break-in or something else. (Bronco's have a rear power window, when its down i smell it) Thanks,

The smell could be the oil used to keep the exaust pipes from rusting when in shipping and storage, it may burn off after a few days, otherwise it could be the cat if so equipped.If you want to see if it has an exhaust leak, use rags and wedge them into the tailpipes, start the engine, the added backpressure will make any leaks loud enough to find

The check engine light is on and the shop told me the code showed the EGR valve sticking. I would like to know if it would hurt the engine if I can make it stay in the closed position? We don't have IM testing here so that is not an issue. If the valve is always closed would it mess with the computer and make the engine run too rich or too lean?

Thanks,

If the EGR valve is not opening it will cause the engine to detonate/ping like a bunch of marbles being thrown into an empty tin can-during acceleration

[quote:6011ccf2a3="rasmataz"]If the EGR valve is not opening it will cause the engine to detonate/ping like a bunch of marbles being thrown into an empty tin can-during acceleration[/quote:6011ccf2a3]

Well that is not the case in my rig. We disconnected the EGR valve and plugged the vacuum line. The EGR valve is closed. The rig runs great, has lots of power, and does not ping under any circumstance, even when lugged down and mashing the throttle to the floor. Of course the check engine light is on, but that is it.

I've overlooked the CEL -get it scanned for code/s might pop up with the code causing the problem-could be the DPFE sensor

one more time, guys.

the tube that leads from the cat. converter to the egr?.. dont really know what it is.Is it really necessary? It has a hole in it and it looks like it will be a real ***** to replace!
This is a 1992 5.8 bronco by the way.

its part of the emissions setup. so if there is a hole in it, it might cause a check engine light also if it is caked up with carbon, that will cause another code, both will make you fail emissions, it should run from the egr valve (underneath it, then down to the cat.

Engine Performance problem
1990 Ford Bronco V8 Four Wheel Drive Automatic 92XXX miles

Alright guys. For the last month or so, my Bronco has been having performance issues. I'm not geting the power i should have, idling is all over the place whether I'm in gear or in park, and I'm puffing black smoke when the engine runs over 2500rpm.
I have replaced plugs, wires, the distributor cap and motor, the upstream O2 sensor, the egr valve, and I have tried to adjust timing. All these fixes have helped, but the problem persists. I'm thinking the problem is the fuel injector, or maybe the bypass valve back to the fuel tank, but I'm not a mechanic, so I really have no idea. What do you think?

HAs the check engine light come on? Also, the black smoke indicates a rich air fuel mixture. So, there could be a problem with the injector. (If I remember correctly, 1990 has throttle body injection). If it has multi port injection, let me know.

I have been fighting this problem for about a year. The motor was replaced 25 thousand miles ago. When it was replaced we put an after market intake from edelbrock, and a BBK throttle body. It misses really bad and the idle fluctuates, but only when it warms up. I noticed it after i wrapped one of my headers to protect the starter. I have replaced everything on the ignition system except the distributor cause that was also replaced with the new motor. I have checked all the fuel injectors and they are fine. The egr valve sensor is new but not the valve itself. The exhaust is cut off right after the first cadalitic convertor. The only codes being showed are the tps sensor(wich is also new) and egr flow not sufficiant, also the o2 sensor. Ive been told by a few mechanics that the computer might be bad. If u have any idea please let me know

Have you checked the EGR for carbon build up? Can you describe what the engine is doing?

I have replaced the EGR valve, oxygen sensors, IAC valve, and the EGR sensor. My truck still idles rough, unless I remove the vacuum line off the top of the EGR valse then is runs like a champ. Where do I look now?

ALRIGHT HERE IS THE LESSONED LEARNED. IF YOU GET CODES STATING EGR FLOW INSUFICIENT OR EXCESSIVE. START WITH THIS PART FIRST. UNFORTANELTY IT WAS MY LAST. EVEN THOUGH AFTER 140K MILES THEY WERE IN NEED OF REPLACING ANYWAY. THE FORD DEALERSHIP TOLD ME IT IS CALLED AN EGR "CHECK VALVE". A LITTLE BLACK CANISTER THAT LOOKS LIKE A PRESCRIPTION BOTTLE FOR MEDICINE. IT IS LOCATED TOWARDS THE BACK FIREWALL DRIVERSIDE. THE VACUUM HOSE COMES OF THE TOP OF THE EGR VALVE TO THIS. IT NEVER CAME UP WITH A SPECIFIC CODE FOR THIS JUST (BANK1 +2 RUNNING LEAN AND WHAT I MENTIONED UP TOP.) THANKS FOR THE HELP, AND I HOPE I HELP SOMEONE ELSE THAT COMES TO THIS SITUATION

ALSO THIS PART I FORGOT TO MENTION IS ONLY 40 BUCKS, COMPARED TO ALL THE OTHER I REPLACED THAT TOTALLED ALMOST 200. YOU PROBABLY HAVE TO BUY IT AT FORD, AUTOZONE HAD NOTHING ON IT

I got my truck smogged today and the NOX was off the charts high. The tech told me that my hot combustion chamber was responsible for this. I had my cat changed and he said it was something in my egr system. I was wondering how I could diagnose and repair this. hopefully just cleaning the egr valve?

you can check the valve with a vac pump and see if it holds vac.the thing you realy want to check is the vac line going to it and make sure it dont have vac at idle.

could a problem with this system lead to rough idle. Cause the care will idle rough then regular sometimes

yes if it has vac at idle it will make it run very rough.but that sounds like a sticking egr valve,but make sure it dont have vac at idle.

If the EGR valve is not opening the exhaust gas will not recirculate and will form oxides of nitrogen Nox to increase due to excessive combustion temperature over 2500F deg

Where is the EGR valve located on the vehicle listed above Bronco 2?

i have never seen a egr stuck closed that would make the engine run rough, now if it stuck open then it might not even idle at all,as far as hi combustion temp yes this is true but it only rises under a load or constant hi idle and when this happens it makes this sound we old timers like to call spark nock,this is what an egr gets rid of.keep in mind this is a 1989 truck.

It's up on the intake manifold. It will look like one of these animals in my picture below!

The Medic

Detonation/pinging/spark knock all smells the same- High NOx is normally caused by an EGR problem. and Yes I've seen it shut closed in my 43yrs in this business. Open or shut closed you gonna have a problem

TO: Rjohnsn Clean out the EGR valve this is the only way to find out and make sure its functioning correctly- BTW You sure the vac hose is hook-up to the correct type vacuum such as ported/VV/intake

your dogging me and then telling him the same thing i allready told him to do. and buy the way i told him in laymens terms.you need to look at my replies and maybe his to,he says in his massage and i quote-(hopefully just cleaning the EGR valve) would fix it.

by the way rasmataz we have all seen a stuck egr valve. nobody ever said they dont stick.and just cuz you claim you have been in the business for 43 years dont impress me ive seen certified tecs that dont know a screwdriver from a hammer!

I have recently put on a new Distributor Cap,Rotor,Plugs and Plug Wires on my 1986 Ford Bronco II 2.9L FI 4X4...and the same night I had done this after I started it the emission light has came on and will not go off if I try to reset the computer,I had someone run a scan on it and they could not complete the scan because it wouldnt complete the test without dieing on him so I took a shot in the dark and replaced the EGR Valve and it did no good.If anyone out there has ever experienced this before please let me know what could possibly be the problem.It would be deeply appreciated.Thank You!!

ignition control module possible have it tested

i have never seen a egr stuck closed that would make the engine run rough: It won't-but will increase the Nox and cause it to detonate/ping-like throwing marbles in a tin can-

When he comes back you take it from there-No I'm not trying to dog you, its my job as Sr.Moderator to assist, we work in here as a team-When it gets tough we moderators/experts will link-up and answer the question paid or not-

I considered that could possibly be it but if it were bad at all I dont think it would start .....I may be wrong but just thought that.

dude why do you keep saying things i have allready said????????????? are you reading what your typing.dident you read the part where i said thats what us old timers call SPARK NOCK!!!!!!!!!!and thats only under load.if working proper it closes at idle(no vac)opens at throttle(vac)if letting gas pass by then you get high nox& bad ilde.its just an egr valve omg. p.s this man just needs to clean the egr valve and check the vacuum solenoid.

agreed with the not starting
Did you try easy items like the fuel filter, Pcv valve,look for loose or cracked vacuum hoses?
Could be the brain too. start with replacing the small ticket items. bring the vehicle to a local part store autozone they will hook the vehicle up on a computer diagnostics.
another thing to do is utilize this site there is a whole list of topics on the left side

Okay dave's big backyard!we end this and move on maybe he wants us to clean it up for him or he already did and not coming back but he's getting our replies-Sorry Buddy just trying to help it shouldn't go this far-BTW welcome aboard looking forward of you being a moderator/expert

I had went to autozone and they told me that my bronco was to old for their diagnostic testing machine so I ran into a man that had a testing device made by Snap On and he tried testing it for me and it has to run through I think like 13 steps and during the 6th step the device puts a strain on the engine so that the throttle should raise to compensate for the strian but the engine dies...and all he told me was that I need to find out what is causing it to die before he can complete the test and diagnose what is wrong....

all is good with me, hope you feel the same way.p.s sorry for being such an ass.

my bronco II starts good runs for about 20 minutes then sputters and eventually stalls. not my fuel line, i have replaced fuel pumps, filters

Sounds electrical in nature need to find out if it's cutting out before or after distributor.

If there is a problem with the EGR, it will be caused by carbon. Just chip away at the carbon to remove it. Also, makes sure where it attaches to the intake to make sure it isn't plugged there.

Hey Np -this is how I pick a future moderator and submit their names to higher ups-got any problem with it-if not you'll be notified.

Your status now is helper. [email protected] will need more info send him a message-let me know