Flashing airbag light?

Hi,

Based on your description, it sounds like a code 32. That code is related to the EVP sensor. The EVP sensor monitors the position of the EGR valve. In this case, it indicates the voltage is less than the fully closed position. So, there is a chance that the connector is loose, corroded, the wiring to it is damaged, or the sensor itself is bad. See pic 1 below for a description

The EVP sensor is mounted at the top of the EGR valve. The EGR valve mounts on the passenger side of the engine's intake manifold. See pics 2 and 3.

Inspect the connector first and wiring first.

Here is a link you may find helpful:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-wiring

Let me know what you find. Also, let me know if there have been any drivability issues.

Take care,

Joe

See pics below.

Hi Joe, thank you for your response. I have done some research and thought the code was 32. That code in my OBD1 book also stated what you have indicated in your response. I ordered and changed that sensor (wow, what a job that was) and it made no difference to the flashing air bag light. I also while I had it off checked the harness for power and had power (somewhere in the 3.5-to-4-volt range) on two of the pins. The third pin had no reading. I used an OBD1 code reader, and it does not pick up the error on it. I tried both KOEO and KOER and it still never showed a code 32. After I changed the position sensor does the error reset itself or do I have to manually reset it? I will try in the next few days what the article you attached to see what I can find out. If I find anything out, I'll send you another message.

Thank you again for your response.

Hi,

The idea that the airbag light is flashing indicates an issue within the SRS circuit. I attached the wiring schematics for the circuit below. I'm adding them in the event you need them.

Take care,

Joe

See pics below.

Joe, I attached a sheet to show you the results of the test I performed. If you need more info let me know.

Hi,

I went over what you found (by the way, nicely put together) and your voltages are good. When the EGR is fully closed, the voltage to the EVP should be between .24 and .67v and you are within that.

I have a feeling it is electrical, but have you removed and inspected the EGR to make sure it moves and isn't carboned shut? That would cause the code.

Joe

Thank you, I have not removed the EGR because its is a very cramped spot to get to. I will try to do that in the coming days.

Hi Joe, here's what I tried today. I removed the EGR valve vacuum line and used a vacuum pump to add vacuum to the EGR valve. I used a mechanics mirror to view the valve under vacuum. The valve went up when the vacuum was applied and down when I released the vacuum. I then added vacuum to the vacuum line that goes the the EGR valve and the gauge would not show any vacuum at all. I then replaced the vacuum line onto the EGR valve found the vacuum line at the Vacuum regulator or modulator (both refer to the same valve) and applied vacuum to the green vacuum line connected to the EGR valve. The EGR valve again worked as is should have. I am wondering if the modulator/regulator valve could be bad. It has green and a black vacuum line connected to it as well as an electrical connection. I can't get the connector off to check for voltage or test the vacuum regulator/modulator itself. I will try again later and get back to you. If I can get the electrical connector off what kind of reading should I be looking for and should the battery be isolated or connected when testing? I am including a URL from ebay to show you what the part looks like. Just highlight the whole HTPP: URL only then right click then select open link in a new tab.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/154122841302?hash=item23e26fecd6:g:l-8AAOSwq3heqA4E&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAA8GJMZcHpN2HuCZTgRYA4RRSN9QOMoJLM7CNEj39MYqTivVzuUj%2BcPqPlPtYojSjS5KzgZASQeVNZrleFBWHQHaQZhnlIFzDHfCJ3%2B5IjW3mJZojy%2BhwNVufOQL0r%2Fjm3qn7gmGtUltmT9xrvp%2BHGu0nYCnESobtwYXZpVBWAnWacQwPkJs3HFNg%2B166aO7zdtEs283iSx1swcw3vxUwn1pyVNdwLkMGJh7f%2FCSWLqG7%2BzmlQC38Z%2BLshDET4rWmONgLAf4MB%2B%2FN3LjQ0TjzBmeNsM0RhFQNzXqZJpf8SrgrYlkPXFwZcQmxAvHJwVSYCKw%3D%3D%7Ctkp%3ABFBM3uam5Ilh

Hi,

Which port wouldn't hold a vacuum? It should at all of them.

Let me know.

Joe

Neither port holds vacuum with a cheap harbor freight vacuum pump. Here's what I did today. I removed the solenoid from the vehicle, the electrical connection showed 9.5 volts with the key on engine off. Doing a bench test on the valve I removed the top cap added power from a 12v battery and the pin on top became magnetic when power was applied and non magnetic when power was disconnected no clicking heard. I also used a ohms meter to test the electrical arms where the plug connects to from under the cap. The ohm meter shows various ohm readings then goes to zero ohms. This component is cheap on rock auto so I ordered one. My concern is the electrical connection is only showing 9.5 volts when I think it should be 12 volts. I'm going to try some electrical contact cleaner later today or tomorrow to see if there is corrosion involved. Also using a A/C vacuum pump with power applied the vacuum tube connected to the bottom port the top port has vacuum. Reverse the vacuum hose and the tube collapses from vacuum with no vacuum sucking from the bottom port. Wit no power connected vacuum from the A/C pump collapses both top and bottom tubes when vacuum applied. All vacuum test were conducted with only one plastic vacuum tube connected. Sorry about the length but I wanted to convey everything I tried so far.

Hi,

Thank you for the update. If I understand, using the AC vacuum pump, the unit holds a vacuum. Is that correct?

As far as the voltage is concerned, 9.5v should not cause an issue. that is enough to actuate the circuit.

Let me know what you find.

Joe

Hi Joe, not sure if it holds vacuum because I only have a cheap hand vacuum pump with a gauge. I don't have a vacuum gauge that I can hook up to the A/C pump. If the 9.5v isn't a concern what about the continuity test. I saw a video on YouTube that said it should have a reading between 33 and 38 ohms. Mine starts out high and goes to zero.

Hi,

As far as resistance, I need to know how high it starts. The idea that it goes to zero is odd because it indicates a completed circuit with no resistance. If it is a very short wire, that may be fine. If you move the wire around, does it increase the resistance?

Joe

Hi Joe, sorry it took so long to get back to you, but I wanted to wait until I got the new one to compare some tests. The new one starts at 32.4 ohms and rapidly goes to zero with or without 12v power attached the old one starts at 20.3 and goes to zero. I installed the new one and it made no difference to the air bag light flashing and in fact I now have an engine light on.

Hi,

By chance, have you retrieved the new diagnostic trouble code since the light turned on?

Let me know.

Joe

Hi Joe, here's what I did: I went ahead and installed the new EGR vacuum solenoid and in the process, I noticed I had the ERG position sensor unplugged when I hooked it back up the check engine light went off, but the flashing air bag light is still blinking the code 32. I ran a new scan with the OBD1 Scanner and with key off engine off there were zero codes, with the engine running but not warmed up I had codes 116,536, 538, 632 and 636. All codes had nothing to do with the EGR system. 636 and 116 were for hi/low temperature for transmission oil and coolant temperature from the engine not being warmed up. 538 was for invalid cylinder balance test due to throttle movement during test (I didn't touch the throttle), 536 brake on. off switch circuit not activated during KOER test (I had the emergency brake applied) 632 overdrive transmission switches not activated during self-run engine test (I did not run the van through the gears while performing the test). I'm going to somehow check to see if the EGR valve is completely seating when it's closed. It looks nearly impossible to remove so I'll have to figure out how to do that test.

Hi,

Thanks for the update. I looked up the EGR location and totally understand your concern. LOL

Code 32 is related to the EGR/Evap. Do me a favor. Take a look at the pics below, diagnostics, and let me know if you have done these tests and the results so I know if I need to continue with the different steps.

Take care,

Joe

See pics below.

Hi Joe, all electrical connections from the EGR position sensor and the solenoid valve to the ECM/PCM checked out for continuity. The EGR performs as supposed to when vacuum applied. What I haven't been able to do yet is to make sure the ERG valve is seating completely. I haven't figured out what I can slip into one of the openings that's thin enough to ensure it seating all the way. When I figure something out I'll send you another reply. Oh and if the EGR needs to be replaced it's going to the shop for that.

Hi,

LOL I don't blame you. As far as checking if it is leaking, when the engine is cold (don't let it get hot) with the engine running, spray a bit of carb cleaner around the base of the EGR to see if the engine RPM's change. If they do, you have a leak.

Please be careful doing this. Follow the directions in this link. Again, don't spray directly at the exhaust manifold.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-an-engine-vacuum-gauge

Let me know what you find.

Joe

I didn't have any carb cleaner so I used some spray brake cleaner probably just a flammable as carb cleaner.. It didn't make a difference to the running engine at all.

Hi,

Yep, that should have done it for sure. I have a crazy question. In one of your posts, you indicated that the EGR responded as it should when the vacuum was applied. By that, did you mean the engine applied the vacuum or did you manually supply the vacuum?

Let me know. We must be missing something simple.

Joe

Hi Joe, I manually supplied the vacuum, and the engine was off. I watched a video yesterday that showed the mechanic taking the top cap off the EGR solenoid and placing his finger over the vacuum pipe that's under the cap and the engine began to stall or at least started to stumble. I'm going to try that on mine to see if the vacuum system makes the EGR valve work. According to the mechanic if it doesn't change the idle or stall the vehicle then there's a vacuum leak somewhere or possibly the solenoid isn't working. It is a new valve so I doubt it will be the valve it fails this test. It's cold out there today so I'll probably try it tomorrow when it's supposed to warm up into the 40's.

We must be near each other because we are to get the same thing tomorrow. LOL Anyway, let me know what you find. Also, make sure there is a vacuum supply from the engine.

Take care,

Joe

Hi Joe, yes, we must live near each other, I live near Wheeling Wv. Anyway, here's what I did today: I performed the test of taking the cap off the vacuum solenoid and started the engine put my finger over the tube that's under it. The engine almost stalled so I performed the test again and watched the EGR valve and it was going up when finger covering the tube and down when finger was removed from the tube as it should have. There is a vacuum reservoir located on the passenger inside fender (pic attached). I hooked up the vacuum gauge to the red vacuum line (pic attached) started the van and the needle went into the green section of the gauge. I then disconnected the vacuum gauge and hooked it up to the black vacuum line and the same results needle went into the green section of the gauge. At this point I'm thinking all the vacuum lines are good and it's an electrical problem. Is there any chance that the ECM/PCM computer might be bad or even the clock spring?

Hi,

Yep, I'm a little north of you. LOL Near, Pittsburgh. As far as the problem, it could a clock spring as far as the airbag. Are there any controls on the steering wheel that aren't working?

Joe

By the way I'm in Weirton. No, everything on the steering wheel works. This vehicle isn't a daily driver, it's a conversion van I bought in 1996 for vacation travels and now for golf trips so it's not a got to fix it now thing. I was thinking of trading it in on an older big boat Cadillac. I just didn't want to even try and trade it in with an airbag light on. If I try anything else, I'll keep you posted. By the way thank you for all the help and advice you've given me.

Bob

Bob,

You are very welcome. I would trade it if you can. I can't imagine the light would create that much of a concern. If it was new, people may be reluctant.

If you need help or have any questions, feel free to let me know. It's nice to help someone that is only an hour away. LOL

Take care of yourself and have a good Thanksgiving.

Joe

Happy Turkey day to you and your family. Take care and be safe.

Hi Joe, I know it has been a while since I last emailed you about this air bag light, as it turns out it was the clock spring. I used the van about a week ago and all of a sudden, the cruise control and horn quit working, so I knew then what was causing all my problems. I changed it and all is well now. If someone is looking for an aftermarket clock spring for an older vehicle try prosteering columns at https://prosteeringcolumn.com/. I thought since we had so much time invested in this issue, I'd let you know what it was and maybe help someone else out also. Again, I appreciated all the help you gave me.

Hi,

Thanks for the update. The horn and cruise control are definitely an indicator. As far as the link you attached is concerned, it's appreciated. It will likely help others in the future.

As far as the help I gave, you are very welcome. However, you fixed it. LOL

Regardless, feel free to come back anytime in the future. You are always welcome here.

Take care,

Joe