Fan clutch

Can you post the exact code you are getting with a scan please.

What do you have for a code AND what do you mean "works".
There should be a ground (black wire) 12 volt feed from the fan relay (White wire) on the clutch power side. The other 3 wires are for the fan sensor. Solid gray wire should have 5 volts with the key on. Gray wire with white is a ground inside the ECM and the Dark Blue wire is a signal feed to the PCM.
With the key on and a cold engine the only wires that will show anything are the grounds and the 5 volt feed.

Have you checked the fan fuses and the relay?

I'm getting code p0526 I tested the white wire and getting a good signal. But I'm getting nothing from the other one. I checked fuses and relay and they're all good

OK that is a failure on the sensor side of the system. Check for 5 volts on the Solid gray wire, and a ground on the Gray/white wire.
What do you have for test gear?

I got a multimeter

OK test the wires above for powers and grounds. Should have battery voltage on White, 5 volts on the Gray wire and connection to ground on the Gray/White and Black.
There are a few connections in the lines so it's possible one or more have corrosion.
Testing them should show what's going on.

I tested the wires with my multimeter and all wires are good... Could it be just a faulty fan clutch. This is the 2nd one I put in now

It could be but I doubt it. I think you will probably need to get an Oscilloscope to check if the signal from the clutch is actually getting up to the PCM.

Does the fan seem to work OK and you just get the error or is it locked on high?
You installed the new one, cleared the code and it came right back correct?

There is a TSB on these where the wiring harness chafes on the bracket and causes them to lock and throw a code. This isn't the issue as the cable would have come with the new clutch.

There is also a TSB that reprograms the fan operation but it doesn't apply to yours.

So either there is a bad connection in the signal wires to the PCM (doesn't take much) or the PCM itself is messed up.

It might be time to take it to a dealer or good shop and have them verify where the issue is with an OEM level scan tool.

Could it be the temperature sensor? This is what I did I cleared the code by disconnecting the battery hooked it back up and started it. It almost sounded like a jet engine when I revved it up a little then it stopped after about 20-30 seconds. Shut it off and on againanf then about 10 seconds later the light came back on and it was quiet

Just to check do you have an autozone/advance/oreily around? Or similar place that will scan/clear codes free? Maybe have them scan it and see what code they get, then clear it. Some codes can be really stubborn and won't clear by disconnecting the battery. I always use a scan tool to clear them so I'm not sure if this one is a persistent one or not. Your description sounds like it is working OK, so you could try that. You could be chasing a ghost code.

Yeah I tried that and it comes right back on

Has to be a signal issue then. A VOM won't read the signal as it's a digital pulse not a sine wave or fixed voltage. Have you tried a continuity test from the connector back to the PCM? The dark blue and gray w/white would be the two to check.
Beyond that you need a scope or factory scan tool to read the fans duty cycle.
It's possible the old fans failure sent a power surge up the line to the PCM and the input is cooked but no way to tell that without seeing what the PCM is actually seeing from the fan.

So my best bet would be bringing it to a dealer?

A good shop with a good scan tool could handle it and be less $$$ the trick is finding the good shop.

Yeah that's very true... Thanks man I appreciate the help

Wish I could give you a better answer but without being able to see inside the PCM we have hit a wall. Where are you located state nearest large city, maybe one of us knows a shop in the area.

Albany ny

Please let us know what you find. I'm interested to see what it is.

Cheers, Ken

Albany, I'm 50 miles west of there... Used to own a shop on Central. Sold it and the new owners tore it down....
There used to be a good shop on Consaul Road and another was Capitaland over on Kraft, not the place on the corner of Kraft&Central but down on the left.

50 miles west would be like cobleskill area?

I'm closer to the Thruway.

Oh ok... I live in cobleskill but Tavel everyday to Albany for work

I'm closer to Fort Plain, these days I generally only work on family and friends vehicles, and the occasional tractor or fire equipment....

There used to be a few good places around you but most of the ones I knew closed up or sold out because of the ever increasing costs of business in NY or because they couldn't find help that wanted to stay.

I ended up taking it to the dealer and found out the problem. There was a broken wire inside the covering. $215 later fan is working. Some thing I've missed and was very hard to see But i have 2 more codes popped up when they did it p014 and p0420. Cam shaft positioning sensor I'm gonna do myself just need to find the time. But the other on the catalytic converter sensors. Should I go the easier route of replacing the 02 sensor first. The dealer quoted me $1684 before taxes.

Yep, broken wires can be a bear to locate at times.


Before you touch the sensor, check the oil and if it's low do an oil/filter change. That code P0014 is VERY common and can be caused by low oil or the variable valve timing control solenoid.

pretty good video on the control replacement.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RKFbGOr5jOk

P0420 is 99% of the time a dead converter but testing the O2 sensors first would be a good thing as a slow or marginal rear sensor could cause it as well.

For the cat. Can I use a aftermarket cat or does it have to be the same exact one from the dealer? because they told me that a aftermarket one wouldn't work cause it'll still throw the same code

Being in this lovely state means you have 2 choices. One a dealer cat. OR an aftermarket unit that is CARB approved. Cannot "legally" use anything else in N.Y. unless it's a federal emissions vehicle
"Federally certified new aftermarket catalytic converters may still be used on vehicles with a federal only certification"
(if the emissions sticker has California anywhere on it you have to use OEM or CARB certified)

I've used aftermarket units and not had an issue IF they were good ones. Plus under the new law the aftermarket units have to carry a 5y/50,000m warranty that covers performance as well as construction problems.

However I would probably test the O2 sensors and maybe run a 5 gas test on the exhaust to be SURE the cat is bad first.