Wiring diagram of driver side EVAP pressure sensor?

It's a 3 wire sensor, 5 volts on the grey with black, sensor ground to the grey wire and the signal comes out on the dark green wire. It is a push in sensor so if you can even see or feel it it just pulls out and pushes in. Some have a small tab that you can bend out to release them. Be careful where you locate it, it need to see the same conditions as the tank with no blockages, otherwise when the system applies vacuum it could either cause an EVAP code or worse it could suck the tank in on itself from the vacuum.

Thanks Steve , I’m going to send you my VIN and if you could please send me a pin out of my ECM that shows both left and right tank sensors. also, I was wondering what it’s like working for your company. how good do they pay? I just got let go after 15 years. thanks

Louis Nagy

There is only the single sensor which works to test the system. The sensor is in the left tank and is the only one required at that time as the car treats the dual tanks as a single tank. The three wires from it are in the harness at the tank. That is why relocation isn't going to be easy as the programming for the tests know how long it should take to pull vacuum and release it on that system, so anything else is likely to set a code.
As for the work, I like it and don't have an issue with the employers or other employees. The pay depends on effort. If you want to know more just follow the link.
https://www.2carpros.com/articles/we-are-hiring

Okay, thanks for input. Apparently at the time of manufacture some vehicles I had one sensor and some vehicles had to apparently at the time of manufacture some vehicles I had one sensor and some vehicles had 2, the date of manufacture 01/02 vin# 1g1yy32g525120205. I will send you a screenshot off my scanner and you can see them. I did not record the evap test but I have a pic I can send you ,I did test 3 times and the driver side sensor never moved, at the end of last test I manually purged system for long period and when I released the system back to sea level the driver side moved like 0.1 the passenger side functioned as it should. I will send you a screen shot of it the bottom sensor is driver side. I’m contemplating piggybacking off the passenger side sensor and see if that would work what. do you think? I just need pin out PCM regardless my other choice is tuner shop down the street will fix for $150.00, but just got laid off so want to try everything first. thanks for all in put.

Yeah, that would likely be a bad sensor, or the wiring is corroded. If it has two sensors then they wouldn't be linked and you can't piggyback one to the other without causing a fault. However, I just looked at GM TIS for that car and it only shows a single sensor, unless someone added something to it or it's a custom built car, there is no other wiring diagram for it.

Here is shot off scanner.

Well, could you send me pin out for ECM for that VIN I sent you? just makes no sense why my scanner shows it and there is no way to drop that fuel tank down. I even put a come along on frame to give it more room to drop down and it would not budge. now when I was looking I came across a picture of a driver side fuel with a sensor mounted just above fuel filler neck. But it was an 2003. this is just how my luck runs with this car. I got at least $10,000.00 in engine and transaxle. I’ve spent a lot of money on ABS modules, door modules , etc. If you could just send me the pin out, let’s just call it done deal. Thanks anyway. have a good one.

No image.

Ran the VIN through GM and it shows only a single sensor. The sensor ground is shared with the fuel level sensors in both tanks. If the fuel gauges both work the sensor ground is likely good. That leaves the 5 volt and signal return. The 5 volt reference is only for the sensor it is on pin 46 on the PCM a grey wire with black stripe. The signal return is the dark green wire on pin 64 in connector 2 at the PCM.

Hmm, the images didn't attach either.