engine wont rev

2003 MAZDA TRIBUTE
10,000 MILES • 2.0L • 4 CYL • FWD • AUTOMATIC
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SAPATO STEVEN
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my Mazda tribute is able 2 start but stalls at idling. And when u rev it, it wont go over 4000rpm.the problem started when i was driving the check engine light came on,just after the check engine light came on, the engine started mis_firing. i managed to cancel the check engine light by removing one battery terminal.from there the check engine light went but the next morning the car could not start.tried to check the fuel pressure the pressure was enough,i also checked the nozzles thy where all operating well, checked the spark all the cylinders where firing.please help.
Jan 19, 2014 at 10:25 AM
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STRAILER
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Hello,

It sounds like you have a catalytic converter that has gone out and plugging the exhaust. Here is a guide so you can do some testing.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-test-a-catalytic-converter


Please run this test and get back to us so we can continue helping you.

Cheers, Ken
Apr 22, 2017 at 7:44 PM
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6SAM8
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My 2003 Mazda Tribute is shaking and it seems to have lost some power. It first happen when my vehicle was loaded pretty heavy and i started going up on a steep highway. what could it be?
Apr 22, 2017 at 7:45 PM (Merged)
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MERLIN2021
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If you overload light duty trucks, transmissions suffer the most, is the service engine light on? Check the color and level of the tranny fluid. Check when hot, running in park on level ground.
Apr 22, 2017 at 7:45 PM (Merged)
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PAMYPSOUP
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Engine Performance problem
2001 Mazda Tribute 4 cyl Two Wheel Drive Manual 10500 miles

Strange situation - Loss of power upon acceleration and then runs fine....in running around town seems every other stop light it either is running and missing at idle with no power at acceleration or the next stop light takes off like nothing is wrong. Runs fine on the interstate at high speed (55 75mph- only thing I did was fill my tank they night before - bad gas? Any ideas?
Apr 22, 2017 at 7:45 PM (Merged)
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RASMATAZ
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Possibilities: Inspect and test all the following listed below:

Oxygen sensor.
Catalytic converter.
Fuel injectors dirty/sticking.
Mass airflow sensor/Airflow meter.
Throttle position sensor.
Crankshaft position sensor
Manifold absolute pressure sensor.
EGR Valve
Fuel pressure regulator leaking or defective fuel pump.
False air leakage.
Fuel contamination.
Foul/defective spark plugs.
Open spark plug wires.
Ignition coil/Coil packs defective.
Incorrect ignition timing.
Cap and rotor.

Note:If it doesn't apply disregard
Apr 22, 2017 at 7:45 PM (Merged)
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ALICESNOW40
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Hi about a week ago I asked you about my 2001 mazda tribute bogging on me and when it did the security light would flash, you told me to put it on the analyzer I did at the ford garage, it is still only showing the h20 sensor nothing else, at the time the car when not driven for a day or so is ok until it gets warmed up then it acts up again !!!
Apr 22, 2017 at 7:45 PM (Merged)
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ALICESNOW40
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Also when the car is warmed up you can start it but when you put it in drive it shuts off!!!
Apr 22, 2017 at 7:45 PM (Merged)
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HMAC300
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check fuel pressure and have engine scanned for codes.
Apr 22, 2017 at 7:45 PM (Merged)
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ALICESNOW40
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the engine was scanned the only thing that came up was o2 censer!!!
Apr 22, 2017 at 7:45 PM (Merged)
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HMAC300
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if it's the front O2 sensor tehn that cold effect teh running of it.
Apr 22, 2017 at 7:45 PM (Merged)
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ALICESNOW40
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Hi i recently have been asking you a series of questions about why my 2001 mazda tribute bogs out and the security light comes on ,well I have had it at the garage at Penny Mazda, and they seem to think that its a break in a wire but don't know with one !
Apr 22, 2017 at 7:45 PM (Merged)
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FIXITMR
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sounds like a security system fault.
Apr 22, 2017 at 7:45 PM (Merged)
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ALICESNOW40
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ok the mechanics say it has nothing to do with the security system ! I dunno and 104 buck an hour ticking away its not good on the pocket book ;(
Apr 22, 2017 at 7:46 PM (Merged)
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FIXITMR
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i'd say a lot of people are not aware of the unusual problems that cars can develop and no easy/instant cure is to be found before paying as much or more than car is worth? especially if it is not working right?(devalued) and they say health care is in crisis?
Apr 22, 2017 at 7:46 PM (Merged)
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MRBAILEY
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For a couple of weeks the car would be dead occasionally when going out to start it. But some days it would start right up. then one day the car started losing radio and power windows and locks going down the road. After we pulled over and cut the car off we had absolutely no power. Jumped it off and turned nothing extra on so we could make it home. Tested power going to alternator and it was low so I Pulled alternator and had it tested at auto zone and it failed. Installed new alternator and upon cranking got zero power to the alternator so I took it back off and had it checked at auto zone and it passed. So I'm at a loss for what it could be now????
Apr 22, 2017 at 7:46 PM (Merged)
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KHLOW2008
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Are you getting battery voltage at the alternator main wire (Yellow/White) and the black/Yellow wire?
When ignition switch is turned on, is the charge indicator showing?
Apr 22, 2017 at 7:46 PM (Merged)
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MRBAILEY
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Figured out that the parts place had sold me the Wrong alternator and after getting the correct one it's working fine.
Apr 22, 2017 at 7:46 PM (Merged)
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KHLOW2008
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Nice work.
Apr 22, 2017 at 7:46 PM (Merged)
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DANALEACH
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I was driving approx. 50 km when looked down and all of the gauges just stopped and went to 0, the car started losing power no indicator lights came on prior to the car dying. it wouldn't start again then got a boost it started wouldn't keep a charge, changed the battery. drove for about 1.45 hours then it died again. not sure if it's the alternator as no lights indicated it was the alternator

146,00 km
Apr 22, 2017 at 7:46 PM (Merged)
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KHLOW2008
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Seems like the charging system has failed. Have the alternator tested and check for blown fuses.
Apr 22, 2017 at 7:46 PM (Merged)