Engine swap no check engine light and will not crank?

Hi,

Does the starter engage when trying to start the vehicle? I attached the starter circuit wiring schematic below. I'm not sure if it is working so I thought I would add it.

Also, are you able to connect with a scan tool to the PCM and does the vehicle have a smart key system? If you look at pic 3, you'll understand why I ask.

Let me know.

Joe

See pics below.

There's power to the starter but it does not engage. I am able to connect with a scan tool was in sure until after I made my first post it pulls three codes all about the throttle body sensor.

Thank you for the schematics and for the information about the smart key but my car does not have a smart system. as far as the schematic so concerned I might as well be trying to read you foreign language. I am good with all mechanical things but when it comes to electronic, I'm lost and when I say there's no check engine light it's no light even with key turn to the on position when I connect the scan tool the lights does eliminate until I unplug the schedule.

Hi,

No problem whatsoever. I can check schematics without the smart key. As far as I'm concerned, the whole smart key thing is dumb. LOL

Okay, if the scan tool does turn on, are there any codes? Also, since the starter won't engage, that tells me you have power at the larger gauge black wire but the smaller gauge wire, blue, doesn't have power.

When the key is in any position other than start, the blue wire will not have power. When you turn the key to the start position, it should have 12v. Can you check that for me and let me know if that is what is happening? If it is, the starter is an issue. Regardless of the CEL, the starter motor should turn the engine.

Let me know.

Joe

See pic below. Note that the starter motor has a hot wire (black) directly from the battery. The blue wire is the trigger wire that engages the starter. It comes from the starter relay.

There are three codes p0123 p2135 and p0368.
First two are throttle body position sensor and the third one is circuit wiring short something like that now when I have the key turned on to the on position and throttle body plugged in I have noticed that there is a sound coming from my ECM when I unplug the throttle body with the key in the on position and the sound goes away as well as the third code p0368.
I'll check on the starter information sometime in the early afternoon I have to try to work.

I just wanted to let you know I appreciate your help.
There is no power to the blue wire on the starter in the start position from what I can tell. Yesterday I went through and cleaned every sensor plug and re-plug them in the code p0368 is gone so the only codes I have right now for some reason is a misfire code which doesn't make any sense because the car isn't running and those other two codes p0123 and P2135
I did notice just recently now I didn't remember hearing it before I don't know why I wouldn't but when the batteries hooked up and the keys on and the code reader is not attached, I hear buzzing coming from my ECM.
Even though this is a 2ar engine that's a 2013 and the engine I took out was a two AR 2014 do I need to reprogram my ECM?

Just to give you a little background on what happened to the previous engine. When I noticed I started to burn some oil I didn't oil change check engine light came on with timing codes I did timing chain and guides and tensioner started up all the codes went away car was running good the oil burning got worse and worse when I pulled it into the garage to start working on it to figure out what happened the car was running just burning a lot of oil as I got into it I determined the engine was actually blown due to a crankshaft lash shim had broken off creating a considerable amount of lash on the crankshaft so every time I pushed into clutch it would push the crankshaft up against the side of the engine in each cylinder and it would wear. I pulled the engine out completely and found the 2013 engine and was told that it was a good engine and it turned over I got it and brought it home I went through everything without carrying it completely apart and found at least in my opinion that the engine was good I put a new clutch and clutch plate in I bolted up the transmission I rotated the engine by hand make sure there was nothing rubbing or grinding it rotated very smoothly and then I dropped it in and that's when everything went wrong from there so I know the wiring harness was good the ECM was good the ignition was good the starter was good and that's where we are now I just can't figure out what's going on. Sorry for the long winding story I'm just so frustrated right now.

Hi,

I totally understand your frustrations. If everything was good prior, it should work.

The codes you have (P0123 and P2135) are related to the throttle position sensors. See pic 1. The P0368 is related to an exhaust camshaft position sensor (high input). That is usually an indication to a short to power. So, there could be a connector issue, or something is shirting and sending 12v to the sensor.

When you installed the engine, did you use the original throttle body? Did you inspect the wiring to make sure it was the same at the connector as well as the cam sensor?

Let me know.

joe

I went through and inspected all the electrical plugs, cleaned them and replaced them. The cam sensor code is gone so right now it's just a throttle position codes. The engine that I got from the wrecking yard came with everything on it all the sensors and solenoids as well as the throttle body. As well as the wiring harness but they had cut the end off so I couldn't reuse it. It is the exact same throttle body and plug I even check to see if the part numbers matched, I was thinking about asking the wrecking yard if I can switch them out, but I don't know if they will.
Tell me more about the smart key. Is it possible to have unplugged the ECM for as long as I did a whole week actually, we can have that if it was a smart key, it wouldn't work anymore? The thing to get to me is the key does unlock and lock the doors by pushing the buttons so if it is a smart key I can't see it doing that and not communicating with ECM.

Well, I do have a smart key. There is a security light on my dash just over by the clock and it flashes we're in the car is locked I get in the car it goes out, so the ECM is recognizing the smart key it's not that. I was able to call and talk to a Toyota technician and he said it's something to do with my wiring harness I need to find the short somewhere in there there's something shorting out or not plugged in properly that is what he said without looking at it wish me luck I'm going to pull the brain harness out and go through the whole thing.

Before going crazy, reconfirm the connectors are in good condition and none of the connector pins are damaged or pushed inward. Also, make sure none of the wires are stuck between parts from the install.

Also, before you disconnect or reconnect the PCM, make sure the battery is disconnected.

I have a feeling that we have a few wires that are pinched.

If you have a chance, let me know what you find.

Take care,

Joe

I actually have gone through the whole wiring harness. There's nothing wrong with it. At this point I am already thinking I need a mechanic to help me figure this out some of you who deals with wiring. I thought I had figured it out I had contact and leasing company because there is a GPS and kill switch in that car they told me that it was deactivated, and they had to reset it but it didn't make a difference. I just cannot figure out what the hell is wrong with everything connected. I can sit in the car and turn the key, and everything works. The windows work, all the lights in the dash work, all the headlights work, the horn works, radio works, everything works. The only thing that doesn't come on when I turn the key is the check engine light and that comes on when I connect an OBD scanner to the OBD plug. And when I turn the key to start the power that is on the big black wire to the starter does not get to the blue wire. it just doesn't make any sense. With the key on and power connected to the battery there is also a buzzing or humming coming from the ECM. I just don't know what to do anymore. I really think I'm going to have to go to a mechanic. I just don't know what else to do.

I found it. oh my God, I found it stupid ground wire that's all it was.

I was actually going through a checklist and this is how I found it I figured you needed power you need ground you need all your wiring and I knew the wiring harness was good I knew the ignition switch was good I need the starter was good all of this stuff was working before and it's all one big circuit so I have a good power I started going through every ground and found a background wire and got one little thing it was so frustrating. I do appreciate all your help and insight. Thank you so much and if there's any time, I can help you. Let me know.

Hi,

You are very welcome and thank you for both the update and your offer. I may need help someday. Well, I feel like I need it every day. LOL

You take care of yourself and feel free to come back anytime in the future.

Joe