Engine shuts off while driving

Hello,

This sounds like you have a dash interrogation module going out. To be sure here is a video that shows how to scan the CAN system you can get a scanner for about $40.00 on Amazon. I have also included how the change out he BCM in the diagrams below.

https://youtu.be/InIlnsjOVFA

Check out the diagrams (below). Please let us know what you find. We are interested to see what it is.

Maybe that's also why the headlights don't turn on automaticly, and the driver's door window goes down on it's own every once in a while...

Yep, modules can cause all kinds of weird issues. Let me know when you get the scanner. Also there is a drivers door module as well (DDM). Which may cause the issue as well.

Sorry to take so long! PS codes P0327, P0332, P0336, P0436, U1040, P01064 all said pass+fail.also in health report, code 6, code 1, code 2, and there is more in history... Thanks!

the U1040 is the key - U1040 Chevrolet code. ... Cost of diagnosing the U1040 Chevrolet code. ... The Power-train Control Module (PCM) communicates over the Serial Communication Protocol (SCP) bus network, or J1850 bus.

Sounds like the PCM is bad here is the location and how you replace it.

Check out the diagrams (below). Please let us know what happens.

Ken sorry to take so long, I got used PCM programmed to my VIN, it took 5 tries to program key, but it works! Now I have to drive for a while to see what it fixed and what it didn't fix. Thanks for your help! I will let you know!

Glad you could get it fixed, that kind of problem can be tough. Please use 2CarPros anytime we are here to help.

Engine problem
2000 Buick Park Avenue 6 cyl 80,000 miles
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So my 2000 PA Ultra likes to stall when:

A) The engine is cold
B) When the car is in motion, within the first 30 to 60 seconds of driving, and going down hill...Or presumably when it's running with my foot off the gas, but not when I first start driving it, like putting it in gear or even stopping at the end of my street. It will also never stall at startup.

In order to get it started again, I have to press the pedal when starting and keep the engine revved above 2000 RPM's for about 10 seconds. If not, the RPM gauge will go right to zero and it will stall again.

It won't stall at all when the car is warmed up for 5 minutes and the engine revved, above 2000 RPM's, a few times. This process does not need repeating unless the engine is cold again.

Clues:

The only part I can rule out is my TP sensor. I installed a new one, and although my car is running much better (and faster), it hasn't solved the stalling.

When my car is first started and I am revving the engine, it has a whinny sound. Also, when in idle, the colder it is, the longer it takes for the engine to slow down...Maybe normal but it seems to take too long.

I'm pretty certain I have one or two spark plugs that are misfiring as the car sometimes has a very 'weak' startup sound and the power isn't what it used to be (yes, it is better with the new TP sensor, which I installed correctly). I'm not sure if misfiring sparks can make an engine stall in this fashion. I do know my car doesn't seem to get codes unless a part completely fails.

BTW, if any other PA owners, wth '99 or higher vehicles, are reading this; can you let me know what your RPM reading is when your car is stopped and in Drive? Mine is around 500, which is lower than it once was. It's 800 to 1000 in Neutral

Thanks,

Jeff

Inspect/Test the engine coolant temperature sensor and also the idle air control valve and check the EGR

Check the ignition timing

It's interesting that you mention that, but my car does have a small coolant leak. I wasn't going to bring it up at this point; thinking would have nothing to do with the other.

My engine is running hot (the gauge doesn't show it as such...Dumb gauges) and I had a coolant leak from a gasket, that was fixed (replaced by a burning smell which meant the coolant leak was still present) and then the coolant smell came back and I took it to another place and it turned out the rad cap was bad. Now just the burning smell is back. No doubt it's the heat that's killing this stuff.

Fortunately, when I installed the TP sensor, I noticed a lot of coolant on my hands, coming from a rubber hose, so I think I have found the source of the problem...And if it's just this hose, it will be an easy fix.

Funny how both mechanics said everything was A-OK. I don't think those pressure tests they do are good enough.

Anyway, perhaps I should nip this coolant problem in the bud, before I move on. At least I can drive the car if I do my little warm up procedure.

Thanks,

Jeff

My car is running very bad.I took it to autozone and had a test ran,thay said it was a mis fire in cylinder 2.I changed the spark plug cause it was bad but it still is running the same i need some clue of to what is wrong with it could u help me.It is running like it wants to die when u give it gas it putts. Thnak You

Make sure and check the plug wire. Make sure it is ok on the plug and the coil end. also check #5 because it is the oposing cylinder and could be your problem. Let me know what you find.


Cly

My car is running very bad.I took it to autozone and had a test ran,thay said it was a mis fire in cylinder 2.I changed the spark plug cause it was bad but it still is running the same i need some clue of to what is wrong with it could u help me.It is running like it wants to die when u give it gas it putts.

Next step is to swap the ignition wire with another cylinder and see if the miss goes to the other cylinder, then you know it's the wire. IF the miss doesn't move, compression test that cylinder. May be a carbon build up on the valves.

Engine Performance problem
2000 Buick Park Avenue 6 cyl Front Wheel Drive Automatic

My 2000 Buick starts and dies after about 10 minutes of running. I have checked fuel pressure and no problem there. I have been told it is probably the ignition module or the crank sensor. How do I go about testing the module and sensor? Thanks,
Strungout

Get an OBD II scan tool that will show live data. (most autoparts store have loaners, be sure to ask for one the will show live data) Pull up the RPM reading and crank the engine over. Hold accelerator to floor to shut off fuel to the engine. No reading find the crank sensor, inspect for damage, unplug electrical connector and clean it with electrcial contact cleaner spray and then plug the connector back into the sensor. Crank the engine while watching for RPM reading, again hold down the accelerator to prevent fuel flow to the engine. If you have RPM reading now sensor is ok, engine should run. I The sensor by nature is very durable and should not fail. If you still do not see RPM you may have a internally damaged sensor or wiring problem.