Codes P1805, P0102, P0113 and Engine rattles?

Yes the poo11 code is the most important one in the list especially if the engine has a rattle.. it indicats a problem with the vvt variable valve timing ...it usually means that the vvt oil control solinoid might be broken might be time to replace it ...the parts pretty cheap...also ..as a side note it's not good to drive the car till its fixed might damage somthing ..but the rattle should go away and it should run smooth again once the problems is solved. Also the po102 code is a maf sensor and the po113 code is a ait"..or intake air tempsensor code.. these two somtimes go away after vvt problem is fixed so fix it first clear the code and keep an eye on it for a while ..Good luck

It looks like you have two or three problems, the first is the MAF sensor needs to be replaced, or you have a crack or the air intake tube is disconnected between the MAF sensor and throttle body.

This guide can help:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-an-engine-vacuum-gauge

P1805 Brake Switch or Step Motor Circuit (often Transmission-related)
P0102 Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor Circuit Low Input
P0113 Intake Air Temperature (IAT) Sensor 1 Circuit High Input
P0011 Intake Valve Timing (VVT) Over-Advanced (Bank 1)

If the intake tube is good, I would replace the MAF sensor and then clear the codes, please start new threads for the P1805 and P0011 codes separately. Here is the sensor in question. Check out the images (below). Let us know how it goes.

I had a feeling, so I went with it and tore it apart. My feeling was right, chain guide is broken. That’s what was rattling. Bought the new Cloyes set. How do I time it? It has to be in top dead center before I take the chains off, right? Also, are any of the timing bolts torque to yield? Or can I reuse them?

Oh and intake tube had a crack in it so that’s probably where that code came from.

Also, it was the tensioner that ended up causing the problem because I can literally depress the plunger by hand with ease. So, since it was the tensioner, is it necessary to replace the phasers too? The set I got is without phasers because the one with was over a grand.

Good find on the cranked intake tube, that will cause the:

P0102 Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor Circuit Low Input

Yep, I would put the engine on TDC before taking the engine apart unless the chain it not turning the camshafts, if this is so the engine will most likely need to come apart because of bent intake or exhaust valves. Can you upload images of the problem so I can be sure?

Here’s a video.

And here’s a picture of one of the broken guides.

The chain turns the camshafts, but the chain skips every other rotation around the top right cam phaser because the primary tensioner is bad. So, I’m assuming that’s why my reader picked up the advanced intake timing code.

Yep, good find on the timing chain issue, I don't like hearing that the chain skips though, you could have bent valves, also can I ask which phone you used to upload the video? It does not work, and I want to tell the webmaster of the site. When you get the timing chain back together, crank the engine over to see if you have compression or not.

This guide can help:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-test-engine-compression

Please go over this guide and get back to us.

How do I install the new kit? Since it skipped don’t I have to retime it? And I have the new iPhone. It’s the 16 I think.

The passenger side cam timing mark is off from the other side and the crank. The two on the driver's side are on their marks and so is the crank. The passenger side, not so much. The first pic is passenger side. Second is crank and third is driver side. I used my borescope to check valves, and they seem fine from what I can see.

New video format thanks. That is good news that the valves are okay. Here is how to time the engine crankshaft and camshafts. Check out the images (below). Let us know how it goes.

I’m not sure though because my borescope isn’t super clear. How do I move that one camshaft though? Because only one is off the mark. Do I just loosen the caps and move it back?

Or do I have to rotate it? I’m not sure where to go from here and can’t seem to find any info online.

Okay, I unbolted the caps and moved the cam, but to put the caps back on with the camshaft on the timing mark, I would have to force it.

I don't understand what you mean by "I would have to force it"? did the camshaft not bolt down fully?

For the timing marks to match up the cam caps don’t fit. For them to fit on top and the bolts to be able to reach the head, it has to be out of time. I’m thinking it’s probably because there’s no tensioner. So maybe after I install the chain and release the pin in the new tensioner it should spring it into place?

Actually no because the timing marks are for before chain installation. I don’t know how to explain it. Like the way the valves are on the camshaft lobes they don’t allow them to be on time for me to be able to tighten the caps.

Could it be the valves are contacting the pistons? Is the engine on TDC when you line up the camshaft marks?

Yes, it was in top dead center before I removed the chains, but it’s just because that one jumped so that one is off so I’m just going to turn it and put the chain on and then tighten the cap down. Will that mess something up?

First pic is driver side. Both in time. Second pic is crankshaft, in time. Third pic is passenger side cams where the tensioner that was on the chain guide failed. Left one slightly out of time but the right one is the one I’m talking about. This is what it looks like with the caps being able to go down flush with the head. If I were to take the caps off and move it to match the timing marks, I wouldn’t be able to push the cams back on because of the way the cam lobes end up positioned when I move it.

I would try moving the crankshaft off of TDC about 15 degrees and then try rotating the camshafts, they should be safe at this point, then when the camshafts are on the marks move the crankshaft back to TDC. The camshafts should turn freely except for the pressure of the valve springs.

What is the torque spec for the crankshaft/harmonic balancer bolt?

Sorry, we only handle one problem per thread, please post your new question here, you must be logged in.

https://www.2carpros.com/questions/new

Cheers, Ken