engine power loss and cut off when put in gear

Did you get any trouble codes? Also, the converters could be an issue. Try removing the O2 sensors and see if it makes any difference. Also, you should check intake manifold vacuum pressure. You may have a leak somewhere.

Do have 02 trbl codes , I've checked for leaks , found couple ,repaired issue , going to do smoke test next ,already got car up in air to take cats off . see if it runs, also EVERY. code from trans is present ,

Trans codes? All of them? Check out this guide

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/engine-has-low-power-output

Yes it has all sensor codes lit up on scanner, but I think I hope I found my problem , think cats are blocked, pulled 1 02 sensor car stayed running in drive and reverse.

That sounds like it could be the issue.

Well if i could burn it i would, LETS see, after all ive done to it,,

i took off the cats, and still cutting, off when put in drive, heres all codes, present, ====
P 1747, EPC SOLENOID ===
PO 743 TORQUE CONVERTER CLUTCH ===
PO 750 SHIFT SOLENOID A
PO 755 """""""""""""""""""""" B
PO 760 """""""""""""""""""""" C
PO 765 """""""""""""""""""""" D
P 1451 EVAP
P1409 EGR

iVE ALREADY REPLACED EGR, MAF, IAC, TPS, CHECKED CATS FOR BLOCKAGE ! ANY OTHER IDEAS, MAYBE TRANS MODULE MAKING ENGINE CUT OFF, HELPPP, THANKS,

Hey guys good morning any other ideas on my car cutting off. Need help thanks ,

I think the TCC is an issue. If the transmission isn't fully disengaged when you put it in gear, it would be like letting the clutch out with the brake on with a manual transmission.

i was driving on highway when all of a sudden felt loss of power, car started to stutter, check engine came on. At home I have checked intake manifold for leaks none found, checked EGR works fine (i have closed it just to be sure), PCV is fine, all hoses are okay. Tried to find leaks with carburetor cleaner none found. I suspect o-rings or a faulty o2 sensor. Is there some way to test o2 sensor? or check if it is the o-rings without taking apart the manifold?

may be a faulty injector or a low fuel pressure problem, a blocked fuel filter can do this, as for the O2 sensor, a live data read will show the sensor electrical activity,The greater the difference, the higher the voltage reading. An oxygen sensor will typically generate up to about 0.9 volts when the fuel mixture is rich and there is little unburned oxygen in the exhaust. When the mixture is lean, the sensor's output voltage will drop down to about 0.1 volts. if the readings are above 1 V or zero the sensor is not working.

Transmission problem
1999 Ford Explorer V8 All Wheel Drive Automatic 106000 miles

I've noticed it most when I am going uphill with low gas and the vehicle seems to stall a second, like the transmission is slipping maybe. I also had a similiar problem when my fuel filter was going bad. If it's not the transmission, I think I may have something in my gas tank that is choked through the filter when it reaches the bottom of the tank. But it does have a lot of miles on it so maybe it's time to tune up the transmission. I'm open to suggestions though.

If you run it with less than 1/4th of a tank, you might want to have the fuel pressure tested.

Engine Performance problem
1999 Ford Explorer 6 cyl Four Wheel Drive Automatic 132000 miles

I had my explorer checked out but they couldn't find any thing wrong. The test that they done all good. But still idles ruff and runs ruff, has no power. It did have a code 1151 but now it is not showing up. They said that it might be the throttle body but said he was not sure that was it said just a guessing. Any idles on what it might be?

Did you check for vacuum leaks? Has the catalytic converter been checked?

yes the vacuum checked, but how to check the cadillac converter? thanks..

The converter can be checked a couple ways. First, when the engine is hot and still running, often times, a converter will get red hot and glow. Other than that, you can hear restriction. Finally, they make a gauge that screws into the O2 sensor ports to measure back pressure.

Hello, My intake manifold is leaking. The problem has gotten worse such that my check engine light is on saying that Bank 2 and Bank 1 too lean. The explorer runs great and still gets around 20 mpg. I can tell it has lost some power and it seems to run better on 91 octane than 87. It does start up rough if you let it sit for like a few minutes. Sometimes I hear a knocking like sound coming from the left side of the block. It sometimes is really loud or you wont hear it at all. As i said it drives fine. How worse do you think this could get? Do you recommend repair right now?

it will not stay the same. it will get worse and you could do more damage.
have you got a bid to have it fixed??

the knock is not good either. you need to let a shop listen to it and tell you there opinion.

the longer you wait, the worse it will get.

Roy

Engine Performance problem
1999 Ford Explorer 6 cyl Four Wheel Drive Automatic 140000 miles
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I have a 1999 explorer. in park it runs just fine when I put it in drive it has no power after i pass 1000 on the tac. I put it back in nutral or park and its fine.
took it to ford and they said my cats were plugged and wanted $2,500 to change. I went and had them cut out and the problem still exists. its getting codes for the trans but I just don't know where to look. any help with this would be greatly appreciated. my email is [email protected]


David
The trans does not seem to have any mechanical problems at all. when I put the truck in drive I can drive it but I have to keep the rpms under 1,100 or if I go above that it acts just like its running out of gas. Once going I can cruise at 65 mph with no problems until I press the gas petal down and again it acts like its run out of gas as soon as I release the petal everything is fine. its some type of senser that only acts up when in gear and the excellerator is pushed beyond 1,100 rpms

Is the code for the torque converter clutch solinoid?
A tranny shop is where to go not Ford!
TORQUE CONVERTOR ENGAGEMENT TEST Perform QUICK TEST and record DTCs. Repair all DTCs before performing the following test: 1. Connect tachometer. Warm engine to normal operating temperature. Ensure transmission fluid level is correct. Maintain about 50 MPH. Release throttle for about 2 seconds, then reapply to previous setting. Engine RPM should increase when throttle is released and decrease in about 5 seconds after throttle is reapplied. Go to next step. 2. Maintain about 50 MPH. Apply light pressure to brake pedal so that brake lights operate. Engine RPM should increase as brake pedal is tapped, and then decrease about 5 seconds after pedal is released. If torque converter clutch operation is not as specified, see TCC operation concerns listed in
TCC ENGAGEMENT TEST Connect tachometer. Warm engine to normal operating temperature. Ensure transmission fluid level is correct. Drive vehicle and maintain about 50 MPH. Release throttle for about 2 seconds, then reapply to previous setting. Engine RPM should increase when throttle is released and decrease in about 5 seconds after throttle is reapplied. If torque converter clutch operation is not as specified

Engine Performance problem
1999 Ford Explorer 6 cyl Four Wheel Drive Automatic 107000 miles

Check engine light came on. vehicle won't go over 40mph. what could cause this?

this is often called limp mode ...sounds like the PCM is shut down ... you need to have the cars computer read for any fault codes and get back to us with codes for more info ?

COMPUTERIZED ENGINE CONTROLS
POWERTRAIN CONTROL MODULE (PCM)
PCM monitors engine operating conditions by input received from engine sensors. Control of output actuators determines fuel mixture and idle speed. For PCM location, see POWERTRAIN CONTROL MODULE LOCATION table.
The engine control system consists of the PCM, relays, modules, sensors, switches and actuators. The PCM sends out electrical reference signals to engine sensors and then analyzes the return signals. The engine sensors supply the PCM with specific information, in the form of electrical signals, to determine engine operating conditions.

*******In the event of a sensor or actuator failure, the PCM initiates an alternative strategy called Failure Mode Effects Management (FMEM) to allow the vehicle to maintain driveability. In the event of PCM failure, Hardware Limited Operation Strategy (HLOS) will be activated. HLOS is a system of alternate circuitry that provides minimal engine operation if the PCM fails. During HLOS, all self-test function will stop and system will be controlled by electronic hardware.
Malfunction Indicator Light (MIL) will remain on whenever FMEM or HLOS is in operation. FMEM and HLOS substitute a fixed signal and continue to monitor system failure. If signal(s) return to within operating limits, PCM will resume normal operation.*****

Engine Performance problem
1999 Ford Explorer 6 cyl Four Wheel Drive Automatic 131113 miles

When i come out to my car in the morning i start my car and it just makes a chug chug chug chug chug chug and then starts... then if i turn off my car and do it again it doesnt take as long after about the fourth time it starts right away... but after leaving the car for 1 hour maybe less after all that it then starts back at square one like in the morning... Im thinking starter or something but then again if i knew anything i wouldnt be asking... Any ideas?

when you say chug chug chug .. do you mean it sounds really slow at starting ? really slow to turn over.. this could be a lazy starter ?

Yeah its slow to start thats what i was thinking but i was not sure if it was alternator or starter..
Thanks for the help

yeah if it's slow starting and gradually building up it is the starter .. no problem buddy any time

Engine Performance problem
1999 Ford Explorer 6 cyl Four Wheel Drive Automatic 104000 miles

my 99 ford explorer has become extremely loud...while i drive i can barley hear the radio, and it is slow to accelerate...what could be wrong?

my advice would be have the exhaust system checked to be that loud im thinking the exhaust pipe is loose or broken somewhere and if so your vehicle may not have adequate back pressure which could cause a lack of power

yeah there is sort of a very loud sound coming from around the bottom of the engine where it would connect to the exhaust pipe...it sounds like one of those old muscle cars and it was never that loud...also the gass mileage has plummeted so maybe that is it

yeah it would affect the mpg as well.
its probably only gonna need some gaskets just ask around from people you know to try and find a good reputAble muffler shop

1999 Ford Explorer Four Wheel Drive Automatic

When I come to a rolling stop, the rear end seems to bog down(lower). And now, at times when I take off it seems to do the same. Any Ideas?
Also, I can't get the chime(like leaving your lights on) but they aren't to stop going off. Drives me nuts!!
Any ideas?
Thanks all

Does it feel like the brakes are sticking or grabbing? As far as the chimes, have the body control module checked.

Let me know what you find.

Joe

No. brakes work fine. It happens after I stop

Shakes or Wobbles problem
1999 Ford Explorer 4 cyl Two Wheel Drive Automatic 139 miles
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My 1999 Ford explorer when i come to a complete stop it start to lose power and i open the hood i hear a noise like a vacum line like if is was escaping air any suggest?

You have a 6 cylinder more likely.


Is the check engine light on?

You need to narrow down the air rushing noise source. Sometimes using a little carb cleaner can help if there is a vacuum leak as it will get sucked into the engine and raise the idle.

many times i tryed to get a answer never got the right one ,problem is my autolamps ,no power ,all other lights work
went to parts store asked for a fuse or a relay nothing listed all the experts i went on line told me to test it i did the way as i was told
nothing ,can it be a fuse in the fuse under the hood or inside the car?

you mean teh foglamps or drl? there are 3 fuses in battery junction box as well as 3 in central junction box, there are 2 relays behind center dash. there is alos a module for eht drl at the left front of engine compt. However check fuse 8 &27 in fuse junction panel for drl. there are no relays for drl if fuses are good an dnot getting poer then module is bad

Engine Performance problem
1999 Ford Explorer 6 cyl Four Wheel Drive Automatic 127000 miles

carr is fine while idling when put in gear misses badly new plug and wires were put in. no difference.
computor reads cyclinder 301 02 03 have problems.
what do you suggest.

Hi Kevin;
Your OBD codes are P0301,P0302,P0303
When you put in new plugs and wires did you also put in (2) new coil packs?

Common Problems that Trigger P0301-P0302-P0303
Incorrect Ignition Timing
Vacuum Leak(s)
Low or Weak Fuel Pressure
Improperly functioning EGR System
Defective Mass Air Flow Sensor
Defective Crankshaft and/or Camshaft Sensor
Defective Throttle Position Sensor
Mechanical Engine Problems i.e Low Compression, Leaking Head Gasket or Valve Problems

Polluting Gases Expelled:
HC’S –Hydrocarbons -> unburned droplets of raw fuel that smell, effect breathing and color the sky
CO – Carbon Monoxide -> partially burned fuel that is an odorless but deadly poisonous gas
NOX – Oxides of Nitrogen -> gases that contribute to the creation of smog.

127,000 miles is pretty low so I would tend to eliminate the following from the common problems in this order:
(1) Leaking Head Gasket,Low Compression,or Valve Problems.
(2) DefectiveThrottle Position Sensor
(3) Defective Crankshaft and/or Camshaft Sensor
(4) Low or Weak Fuel Pressure

I would check the following in this order:
(1) Incorrect Ignition Timing
(2) Improperly functioning EGR System
**(Hint) a bad DPFE Sensor (Delta Pressure Feedback EGR) are known to toast up and effect the EGR System.
(3) Defective Mass Air Flow Sensor.

I have a feeling that it is the "D.P.F.E." Sensor causing a Improperly functioning EGR System.
The little S.O.B's are very well known to toast up.
If it were me I would fiddle with the D.P.F.E. first.
D.P.F.E.'s explained:


If you have a "Junk Yard" or Auto Salvage near you I would poke around one and see if you can find another D.P.F.E. Sensor for short or zero money, they are a small and made of plastic. Grab a "Mass Air Flow" Sensor for giggles too.
The M.A.F. Sensor is in your air flow system leading to your air filter box. It will say "Max Air Flow" right on it.

You are looking for a "D.P.F.E -4 Sensor"
Exact part numbers are any of the following:
YF1E-9J460AC
YF1E-9J460AD

2F1E-9J460AB

4U7E-9J460AA
They are around $40.00 from the dealer.
Get a good quality D.P.F.E. Sensor - The cheapo's will give you headaches.

I hope the information helped.
Good Luck;