Engine overheating?

Good evening.

You have a coolant leak. It is the reason for the coolant under the hood and the overheat.

You need to pressure test the system to find the leak. I would also replace the thermostat as well.

Roy

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/engine-overheating-or-running-hot

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/radiator-pressure-test

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/replace-thermostat

Yesterday morning, the truck started fine. I put it in reverse and it died. Started back up and it was fine. On my way home from work last night, I tried to slow down at a stop light and the engine really revved up. I looked at the temp and it was coming close to overheating. I pulled over and shut it off in time. The RPM's had been going high prior to shifting so I'm not sure if it's related. I checked the transmission fluid. Fine. The oil was low. Added two quarts. However, I found green liquid between the fan blade and engine. What do you think? Cracked radiator? antifreeze leak/low? or water pump? I opened the metal cap on the radiator after it had cooled down but I'm not sure how much fluid should be in there. Help! oh, one more thing. No check engine light came on.

The rpm's went up beacuse the coolant sensor cant read air. Have the system pressure tested to find the exact leak.Also have the thermostat replaced.Radiator should be full to the top (engine warmed up) and the recovery bottle needs the specified amount in it

Engine Cooling problem
1999 Dodge Dakota 6 cyl Two Wheel Drive Automatic 114k miles

My truck has over 114,000 miles on it and it is over heating. I dont see any sign of leaks coming from the upper and lower hoses. I havent yet check the thermostat but it was replaced last year and it seems like I'm always having to fill up the coolant. I'm a mechanic just starting out and even went to a trade school in 2004 but I just dont have the experience to figure it out please help.

So does it just over heat when it's low on coolant?Or does the over heating make it low on coolant?If it's loosing coolant then over heating i would pressure test the cooling system and look for leak's.Also pressure test the cap you can loose a lot of coolant from a bad cap.If you can't find the leak from a pressure test then add coolant dye.

Coolant has been spilling out of engine (not sure from where) when parked after normal driving. Will not happen if I leave heater on, but will still run hot.

Hi:
It could be a few different things. Just so you know, when the heater is on, the heater core acts as a small radiator which helps cool the antifreeze. Regardless, the cheapest and easiest thing is to replace the thermostat. If that doesn't work, check the radiator for corrosion. It may need to be flushed or rodded out. Finally, can you tell where the coolant is leaking from?

These guides should help su fix it

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/engine-overheating-or-running-hot

and

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/symptoms-of-an-overheating-engine

and

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-is-leaking-coolant

Let me know what you find. And if you have any questions, let me know.

Joe

[quote:f6b48215f6="Jacobandnickolas"]Hi:
It could be a few different things. Just so you know, when the heater is on, the heater core acts as a small radiator which helps cool the antifreeze. Regardless, the cheapest and easiest thing is to replace the thermostat. If that doesn't work, check the radiator for corrosion. It may need to be flushed or rodded out. Finally, can you tell where the coolant is leaking from?

Let me know what you find. And if you have any questions, let me know.

Joe[/quote:f6b48215f6]

I replaced the thermostat and flushed out system and it seemed to help some but after 15 to 20 min. of highway driving it will begin to overheat again. Hasn't leaked coolant again, but it looked like it was coming from the bottom hose into the radiator.

Hi:

Is it still overheating?

Yes, it's still overheating. I changed the thermostat and had it flushed out. It hasn't leaked coolant again but I've had to keep the heat on to prevent it from going above 210. I checked and it seems the leak from before was coming from the lower connection to the radiator. It takes 15-20 min for it to begin to overheat and I can keep it down if I run the heater on full blast. The radiator fan is running. I'm not sure how to check for the radiator itself to be plugged or corroded.

thanks for your help,

Sam

Hi:

I want you to check something. When the vehicle is in the process of overheating, open the hood, with a light look, check the lower radiator hose. See if it is colapsing.

As far as the radiator, you will need to find a place near you that will boil or rod out the radiator. What happens is the coolant tubes clog from corrosion. As a result, the coolant doesn't circulate. Thus, the car overheats.

Let me know about the rad hose. Check the top hose too.

Joe

HI:

haven't responded back to this problem due to freezing temperatures outside have made it impossible to work on truck.
The cold temporarily solved the problem but with warmer weather this past weekend the problem is back. Checked the hoses and they aren't collapsing. I'm guessing this means radiator is the problem? Also The check engine light came on while pulling into the drive way, gave a P0132 code (scanner said it was the governor pressure sensor voltage was to high). The truck seems to have very little power until 30-35mph although not much better after that. Has a severe leak of tranny fluid which I can't tell if it's a hose or the main seal. Could this leak be causing the problem? I read online that that code was an o2 issue. Not sure where to start.

Thanks for your help

If everything has already been replaced, either the radiator is the problem, the engine is out of time (which would cause it to run poorly), or you have a bad head gasket.

I would start by having the radiator tested.

Joe

I was driving around 10 miles from home, when the truck suddenly overheated. I let it cool and was near a pond, so I used a plastic container to pour water on the radiator. After the radiator cooled and was full of water, I tried to restart the truck. It cranks over, but will not start.

never good idea to pour water onto a hot metal object (i.e. radiator). it will cause the object to crack due to the hot metal and much cooler water instantly changing the hot metals temperature.

may have cylinder head or head gasket failed which resulted in overheating as well as low cylinder compression which can prevent engine from starting. need to have compression check done.

Engine Cooling problem
1998 Dodge Dakota V8 Four Wheel Drive Automatic 160k miles

I am experiencing overheating when truck is under load such as going up a hill. Its not boiling over but gets real hot. I have flushed the cooling system. The water pump shows no signs of fault. I am not loosing any coolant. THe hoses look good. The fan clutch appears to be OK. I changed the thermostat. It doesn't appear to be related to a head gasket. The truck has never overheated before. I checked the timing and it reads 15-17 degrees. What in the world do I do next?

Hi kridgerd, Welcome to 2carpros and TY for the donation.

Could be airlock in the system try bleeding it and also check the exhaust system for restriction, the radiator if its clogged and test the coolant temperature sensor. If everything here are okay -block and pressure test the cooling system

Hello, I have a problem, my 1998 dodge dakota is over heating. in August 2009 I had my transmission completely rebuilt (was shifting funny), when I got my truck back, the belt was sqeaking, and truck was getting hot, I replaced the belt, still squeaked and overheated, then I replaced the water pump, same problems, then I replaced the clutch on the fan, no more squeaks, but still overheats, so onto the thermostat, I replaced it, still over heats. I completely flush the coolant system every year, like wise I completely flushed again. Still I am overheating. Minus replacing the $400.00 radiator, I have done everything. My radiator shows a temperature of 260 at the top, 150 in the middle, and 250 at the bottom. The clutch only sees the middle so it the disengages. All problems came about after trans was rebuilt. Could the trans be loading me engine making it work harder. I am unemployed, have been for 3years now, I have little money, and limited transportation. I can't afford a donation. If I get this fixed I can get a job, then donate to your service. I live in the middle of nowhere, so transportation is a must. Please help.

It sounds like you have done everything correctly. I need you to check something. Start the engine and let it warm up. If it starts to overheat, check the radiator hoses and make sure neither one is collapsed.

Let me know what you find. Also, are you losing any coolant (could it be a bad headgasket?)

First thank you for the response. I have performed a CO2 test and found no leak head gasket leak, I'm not loosing any coolant, and all hoses are in great shape. With the radiator cap off and at idle I have no problem, but going down the road about 10 miles, I over heat. I have alot of mechanics ( with over 15 years expirence) i'm friends with and they are all scratching their head.

The only thing I can say is radiator or ignition timing or there is a blockage in the engine. You have done it all.

The engine has overheated after pulling a Uhaul trailer about 150 miles. Fluid was leaking and a mech replaced a hose, serviced the system and did a good pressure check. Started again and in about 30 miles it overheated again. Hint, the heater blows hot air. Don't know where to go next...... Thanks, Ron

Did he replaced the thermostat? Try having the mechanic do a block test and redo the pressure test-something is still wrong.

Yesterday i replaced the water pump, hoses and thermostat. After driving around in the city the car seemed to be acting normal and no over heating. Well this morning driving to work on the freeway the car started to overheat and boiled over in the overflow tank and then on the ground. The clutch fan does work. I have been told it could be a few things. 1) The new thermostat is faulty, 2) Air pocket in the coolent system, 3) radiator is clugded, or 4) i just need to buy a new car (not an option). Do you have any ideas i can look at or suggestions on what to do.

Lucky for you replacing an entire coolant system is cheaper than buying a new car.
First and foremost you need to flush your radiator. You can get a can of flush from just about any parts store. Follow the instructions to the line. This should also remove any air pockets in the coolant system.
Another thing to check is your heater core. If your radiator turned out some nasty stuff then chances are you have a nasty core too. Unfortunately there is no reliable way to fix this problem. I usually recommend that it be replaced. It is a pain but if this turns out to be the problem then let me know and I can get you some help with that.
The usual plan I go with when troubleshooting a coolant system goes like this.
1. Check for leaks.
2. Pull the bottom radiator hose to see if any sludge pours out or if anti-freeze is nasty. If it is I go straight to step 5
3. check the thrermostat.
4. check the heater hoses.
5. Flush the system.
6. Start the vehicle and watch for overheating.
7. Use a water hose to blow out the heater core.

By step 7 if no problem has been found or if the vehicle is still overheating after the system has been fixed then unfortunately that usually points towards removing the heads to clean the coolant ducts. This can take a while and SHOULD be taken to a machine shop to be done. You can chance taking the block and heads to an automotive shop to have them put in a parts washer or always try the good ol' water hose before doing this. But, those two methods are much less reliable. don't be discouraged though. I have only ever encountered that problem once with an old GM 350 with a ton of mileage on it. So...chin up and skin some knuckles my man. =)

I replaced the waterpump on my dodge dakota v8 about a year and ahalf ago because it was leaking and have had over heating problems since. I flushed out the motor and the radiator and replaced the thermastat. About six months ago I blew a headgasket and didn,t know because it was just running with a pop. I tried to pinpoint the problem with no success. About tree months ago I overheated and blew out the radiator. I replaced the radiator and got it home and decided to see if I did blow a headgasket which I did. I replaced the headgaskets and run it til last week with limited success with it overheating. I decided to replace the waterpump again and I took two short trips around town and I think I blew the headgaskets again. What could be the cause of it overheating? What can I try next?

Did you send the heads out to the machine shop for testing when you had them off?

No I did't.

then you're probably going to have to do it all over again. You can't simply slap a gasket on it and put it back together. The head could have been cracked or warped at the very least.

My truck overheated a few days ago, and the next day my oil pressure was high. Then my truck kept wanting to overheat when I was idling for 10 to 15 minutes one day then oil pressure would try to get high the next. So I changed my thermostat, and I drove it around today it did fine, and I went to the gas station and I had to let it idle for about 10 minutes and it acted like it was going to start overheating and the oil pressure started to get low. I’m not sure what to do next.

Hi,

Does the overheating only seem to happen when the vehicle is in stop and go traffic or sitting at idle for an extended period of time? If that is the case, chances are the fan clutch needs replaced. Since you already replaced the thermostat, that would be the next thing unless the cooling system needs flushed.

As far as the oil pressure, I would expect it to drop lower when it is near overheating simply because the oil thins under extreme heat.

If you take a look through this link, it explains how the fan clutch works.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-a-clutch-fan-works

Here is a link that explains common symptoms of one going bad and how to check it:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/fan-clutch-symptoms

If you feel this mirrors what you experience, here is a link that explains how in general one is replaced:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/fan-clutch-removal

Let me know if this helps or if you have other questions.

Take care,
Joe

The 96 dodge dakota I am having overheating problems with has vacuum in the crankcase. I can hear it when I pull out the dipstick. what causes this?

Pinch the hose from the PCV valve. If the vacuum stops, suspect the valve is stuck open.

That's not really a bad thing and could be normal, except for emissions and it really has nothing to do with overheating though.

Thanks for all your help.

Have replaced waterpump, thermostat, and fan clutch. Engine runs normal temp untill I get into stop and go traffic. Didn't run hot till after replacing leaking waterpump, this is the second waterpump first was faulty.

Check that the fan is blowing air toward the engine. Some engines use a fan that appears to run backwards compared to the other pullies. If that's the case, double-check the belt routing around the water pump pulley.

caradiodoc

I noticed my truck started overheating. I stop let it cool down check the fluid an notice how rusty the ccoolant was. i start to head back home within 4 miles my truck was overheating. I get home pull the thermostat out. put it in boiling water an it was opening just fine. I fire my truck up and breathe engine a little and the water is coming out if the block as it should. what do I do next. note. when the truck was hot the top hose was hot an a bit pressurized

top hosewill always feel like that due to where it comes from engine to radiator. flush the coolant then read correct type at a 50/50 mix. it was probably old coolant.

So, I have again after a bit gotten my truck running again, but after letting it idle out in the sun at around eighty two degrees Fahrenheit the temperature gauge was really high and the water in the radiator literally boiling. At cold the motor has a random and high idle that is really loud but once it warms up to a normal temperature it idles down, but touch anything like A/C or the clutch it begins to have a jumping idle again. After about twenty minutes with it idling it began getting hotter and hotter. I have replaced the coolant system radiator, water pump, thermostat, etc. Is this from the hot weather or could there be a problem? Also, I do not see a loss of coolant so I do not think there is a head gasket leak.