Electrical wires melted no power now

Hi Veronica,

I think you are close to what the issue is. The fuse panel more than likely has an issue. That burning smell is not normal and you need to find where else you have melted wires.

What I suspect happened is when the insulation melted on the wires that touched the hot pipe, they shorted out the fuses or even melted the fuse panel. Unfortunately, any time this happens, you need to take a test light and find out what has power and what doesn't on the fuse panel. Whatever does not have fuel you need to replace the fuse and or wiring until power is restored.

The vehicle is not a total lose, it is just going to take some time to go through all that you need to and restore the power. Hopefully it is just fuses but again, there is no way to know without testing.

Here are some guides that will help with this type of testing:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-wiring

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-a-test-light-circuit-tester

Please let me know if you have more questions.

Well, i took another battery the next day and got it to start and drive only it has very little power and makes a noise which is similar to the things it was doing before the melt down when i had to replace the electric plug that goes from the box the spark plug wires go into then to the positive cable. so i have reordered that plug it comes tomorrow. i am hoping that is the last of my issue. I will let you know. but do you happen to know where i can find the exact fuse diagram and labeling for my car? i have been trying i need it for both under my hood and dash on drivers side as there is not one on the passengers. Again its 8th VIN numbers a 3 not p thank you in advance. this sites awesome.

Here are all the details out of the service manual. Please let me know if you need more information.

Yes, i am replacing the ignition coil plug that burned and when i removed it the wires came out from the butt connectors and now i am not sure which wire to connect to what. Because on the new plug they are all black but on the car they are green and blue green and black and orange and black. can you tell me which is first, second and third please?

Okay. Just want to make sure but your wires should be black and orange, green and blue, and black and green.

Here is the pin out chart for this connector.

Okay, so i fixed my issue on that and even used zip ties to hold it away from the pipe again. i drive my car down the street and on my way back it starts stuttering. i get it home and the positive wire had some how fallen again onto the same metal pipe and this time it melted a hole in the metal pipe. is there a way to fix this hole in the pipe? I will send pictures in just a seconds.

Here is what the hole looks like .is it possible to patch some how?

Here is another shot of it:

That looks pretty significant. I would not try to repair it. I would just replace it. It is possible to repair but it will take welding a patch piece on this pipe but by the time this is done, it could have been replaced..

However, before you do that, I would make sure we secure that cable so the new pipe or something else doesn't get damaged.

Do you know what the pipes called so i can price it?

I used fiber fix on the pipe and fixed the wiring but the car wont turn over.

I would treat this like this is the first thing that has happened. Check for power at the starter. Do the lights in the cluster turn on?

I suspect if the lights on the dash come on, then you don't have power at the starter due to a faulty (burned) wire from the battery to the starter. Then check the relays and fuses again and make sure they were not damaged.

Okay, yes i was thinking along those lines also.

I will let you know soon. Thank you

Okay. Sounds good. I am here if you need more assistance. Thanks

So yes the wire from starter solenoid was burnt and now the bolt holding it on stripped same with the wire from alternate to battery. and its bolt as well are stripped. i have tried sockets that grip better no good. what can i do as i can't tighten these down like they need to be?

So the bolt holding the wire on the solenoid is stripped? If so, you will need to replace these components because I don't think you can replace those bolts.

Okay, so i got all the stripped bolts off and i replaced all the wiring from the alt to the starter the starter to the battery charged battery to full replaced everything that has melted used fiber fix on the EGR pipe for the hole it burnt cleaned the throttle body every things nice and snug and yet car tries to start, but wont turn over. can it be the plugs maybe? if not what are your thoughts? please

It could be fouled plugs. I would pull the out and look at them just to find out.

Here is a guide that will help with hard starting. However, due to the damage that was done, I am not sure what else you could be dealing with. Once things like that happen, all bets are off.

As for fiber fix on EGR tubes, I am not sure that will hold up. The EGR takes exhaust gases and reuses them. These are hot and contain hydrocarbons and other combustion byproducts and more than likely will break this down. This is why most all EGR tubes and components are metal.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/engine-cranks-excessively-before-starting

Well, i have changed the plugs and the crankshaft sensor as well and still no start. all wiring has been replaced that has burned or melted. also the only things i have not are the EGR pipe camshaft and throttle body sensor and the last two were not physically damaged. i did check the fuel rail sensor and gas is getting to it, but still it will crank just not start. i am told possibly the fuel pump or its relay or the starter relay. Any thoughts or suggestions from here? The battery is good also. Could it possibly be the alternator or starter by chance?

No. A crank no start would not be caused by the starter or alternator. If the engine cranks over then the starter and circuit are fine. The alternator is only being used when the engine is running and is not used during starting.

It seems like you are just going through a replacing parts but I am not sure we are performing the needed tests to determine which direction we need to go.

I know you changed the plugs and crank sensor but was that because you tested the plugs during cranking and found that there is no spark? If not, we need to do that.

Also, it could be a fuel pump but we need to measure fuel pressure at the rail to determine if the pump is sending the proper amount of fuel.

If we don't do these tests then you could spend a lot of time and money replacing parts that don't need to be replaced.

Please review these guides and let me know if you have any questions. Thanks

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/engine-cranks-excessively-before-starting

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-fuel-system-pressure-and-regulator

Okay, i have not done those tests, but just now we put a new fuel filter and nothing. i thought maybe try switching batteries with my other car and when i connected it. as i put the positive on i keep hearing a clicking in the fuse box so i pulled out the fuses i believed i felt the clicking from and still it clicked. remember it was the positive wiring i had to replace. so do you think anything of this information? I will do the testing you suggested.

It depends on which relay this is. It is not a fuse because those do not click. The clicking noise you are hearing are the relays turning on an off. This will drain the battery plus depending on which relay, it will cause a no start.

I would suggest you start with finding that relay that is clicking and replace it. Just pulling it out will not allow the car to start because they need to be installed and functioning properly.

I suspect as you get the vehicle running you are going to find a number of things that were affected by this incident but you can't worry about that until you get it started.

In response to changing plugs their wires and fuel filter. it was because they were caked up with nasty stuff all in the old wires and plugs and filter was to prove a point to an idiot that it wasn't the issue. now back to the relays under the hood. when i heard the clicking and pulled them out all of them were rather warm and since the car hasn't been started in a week now i thought it was strange. i am going to try to follow some of the steps you sent me links for and I will let you know. Thanks

Also the relays inside the box under the hood are getting really warm and the alternators a little bit too.

Warm relays are caused by them switching on and off, hence the clicking. This is caused by bad relay, constant power (shorted wires/PDC), or a battery that is mostly drained. If you have multiple relays doing it, I doubt it is the first. If you just replaced the battery and it is still charged I don't think the last is the issue. Based on the history, I suspect you may still have wires that are shorted together.

Let me know what you find and I will help if I can. I would suggest with starting with finding which relays are clicking and then swap them or replace them with ones that are not clicking. If the new one clicks as well, then you have a wiring/PDC issue.

Okay, i know you sent me what you had on my fuse panels but they were not for my car. i have one under the dash on drivers side then one under the hood same side. i need to no the relays names and locations.

Okay. Please tell me which body model that you have of the options attached and I will send you what is in the service manual.

Its a Ford Focus SE manual 8th vin numbers a 3it doesn't have any type of extras like alarm although it does have a triangle on the dash that blinks a red light. i thought it was the hazard light button, but they don't come on or blink wen pushed. it is a sedan not a wagon model.

Okay. According to Alldata the diagrams I sent are correct. The battery junction box is on the rear LH side of the engine compartment. The Central Junction Box is on the LH side under the dash which seems like it matches what you are seeing on the vehicle.

Can you please look back at the picture of the pipe that had the hole melted and tell me its name and do you think it can be the PCM by chance?

It looks like an EGR tube but it is a little hard to tell from this angle. Easiest way to tell is to determine what it is going to on one end of the other. This will tell you what it is.

It is possible that it is the PCM but at this point, so much has happened, that I am not sure this will resolve the issues. It may be best to have it checked out at this point. The only reason I say that is because I can't recommend you spend a few hundred dollars on a guess at best.

Do you think it is possible that if i replace the EGR tube it could fix it? i can try uploading a video so you can hear what it sounds like when i try to start it.

And is $150.00 plus shipping a good deal for rebuilding and reprogramming the PCM if i have to go that route?

If this is an EGR tube (which it looks like one) and it has a hole in it, you need to replace it even if it doesn't fix the issue because it is going to cause more issues later. We know that needs to be fixed so I would just go ahead and do it.

As for sending me a video of it trying to start, you surely can and I will listen to it but more than likely that will not help you get it fixed.

Based on what has happened I think it needs some serious attention and I hate to see you guess at it and waste money. I suspect you have some major wiring issues and possible module issues. The fact that it does not start and your relays get hot, that points to a shorted wire issue.

You need to go through the tests that I laid out previously and test the wiring for shorts to ground or have someone check this out that is familiar with that type of diagnosis.

Okay, thank you. i had somebody use my ohm meter to test a few spots and he said no power. i think, and said he thinks my
PCM has gone bad. is it safe to buy the EGR tube and PCM from a salvage yard?

EGR tube should be fine but the PCM is vehicle specific. It appears you can use one out of the same build vehicle but if it were me I never use salvage yard electronics.

I assume you meant he used your volt meter to test for power. If you have no power, then it could be the module or the wires are burned and not capable of carrying the current due to being damaged.

This is the point I have been trying to make. Unless they ohm out these wires to see what the resistance is then you are not sure if they are even capable of carrying the current. This guide talks about this. The last portion of it illustrates how to ohm out a wire.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-wiring

I just hate to see you put a PCM in it and that was not the issue. It very well could be but until you confirm wiring is okay, you are risking wasting money.

No he used my ohm meter, but as for the wires we replaced all that.had any burning or melting on em but i am going to replace the EGR tube though.

Om so here is the latest: i used a test light on the fuses and some didn't light up but under the hood when i pushed 1 of the smaller relays back in the box with keys out of car the headlights came on as i pushed it and it is a bigger relay that is doing the clicking. also here is another puzzler: remember i said i changed the plugs and wires got a new battery changed the crankshaft position sensor and the car was trying to start but would not turn on over well now even with battery fully charged it is acting like it did with my initial issue with my starter. and when i now turn the key i get lights on the dash but no sound whatsoever when i turn the key. we looked for any wiring issues found none other. then the relay under the hood turning headlights on when pushed in and i am no longer hearing the fuel pump come on any that it. please and thank you

So basically now i am at a point where i can't get the car to make a sound at all. but when i turn the key and using a test light on the fuses under the dash the ones that didn't light up go to like the lights cigarette lighter but none with symbols labeled with anything major.