dust shield-brake drum dust guard

Hi,

I'm not sure if it is the front or rear, but they are very similar. I checked the manual and there is nothing listed for replacement, but I'll try to explain it.

First, you will need to remove the wheel. Once the wheel is off, remove the brake caliper, brake caliper mount, and then you can remove the brake rotor. Behind the rotor are the bolts that hold the dust cover onto the steering knuckle.

Here is a link that explains in general how to replace brakes and rotors. These directions will walk you through to removal of the rotor. At that point, you will need to unbolt the backing plate (dust shield).

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-replace-front-brake-pads-and-rotors-fwd

I attached a pic specific to your vehicle below. Everything needs to be removed except what I highlighted.

Let me know if I can help or if you have other questions.

Take care,
Joe

Happy Tuesday to you, Joe.

I think he's referring to the rear as he mentioned "drum" brake. Suppose he means the backing plate? Does an axle shaft have to come out, or is there a bolt-on wheel bearing?

Hi Joe,

Thanks for your reply. But as Caradiodoc mentioned. I am referring to the rear backing plate. I know that I have to remove the parking brake assembly. But do I have to take off the wheel hub also to replace the rusted backing plate? See image of wheel hub and rusted off portion of plate. Thanks.
Tego.

Hi:
Sorry about that. I'm not sure why I jumped to the front.

Anyway, yes the hub needs to be removed because it is actually mounted with the same bolts that hold the hub on. See pic 1.

________________

Take a look through these directions and let me know if they help.

_______________

2004 Toyota Truck Highlander 4WD V6-3.3L (3MZ-FE)
Rear Axle Hub & Bearing Assy LH Replacement
Vehicle Steering and Suspension Wheels and Tires Wheel Bearing Service and Repair Procedures Rear Axle Hub & Bearing Assy LH Replacement
REAR AXLE HUB & BEARING ASSY LH REPLACEMENT
REAR AXLE HUB & BEARING ASSY LH (4WD)

REPLACEMENT

HINT:
COMPONENTS:

1. REMOVE REAR WHEEL

2. SEPARATE SPEED SENSOR REAR LH


pic 2

3. REMOVE REAR AXLE SHAFT LH NUT

(a)Using SST and a hammer, unstake the staked part of the axle hub LH nut. SST 09930-00010

NOTICE: Loosen the staked part of the nut completely, otherwise the screw of the drive shaft may be damaged.

(b)While applying the brakes, remove the lock axle hub LH nut.


pic 3


4. SEPARATE REAR DISC BRAKE CALIPER ASSY LH

(a)Remove the bolt, and separate the flexible hose from the shock absorber.

(b)Remove the 2 bolts and separate rear disc brake caliper assy.

NOTICE: Use a string or other device to keep the brake caliper from hanging down.

5. REMOVE REAR DISC

pic 4


6. REMOVE REAR AXLE HUB & BEARING ASSY LH

(a)Remove the 4 bolts and the rear axle hub & bearing assy LH.


pic 5


7. INSTALL REAR AXLE HUB & BEARING ASSY LH

(a)Install the rear axle hub & bearing assy LH with the 4 bolts. Torque: 75 Nm (765 kgf cm, 55 ft.lbf)

8. INSTALL REAR DISC

pic 6


9. INSTALL REAR DISC BRAKE CALIPER ASSY LH

(a)Install the rear disc brake caliper assy LH with the 2 bolts. Torque: 78 Nm (800 kgf cm, 58 ft.lbf)

(b)Install the flexible hose with the bolt to the shock absorber.

Torque: 19 Nm (192 kgf cm, 14 ft lbf)

10.INSTALL REAR AXLE SHAFT LH NUT

(a)Install a new axle shaft LH nut.

Torque: 294 Nm, (3,000 kgf cm, 217 ft.lbf)

11.REMOVE REAR DISC BRAKE CALIPER ASSY LH

12.REMOVE REAR DISC

13.INSPECT BEARING BACKLASH

14.INSPECT AXLE HUB DEVIATION

15.INSTALL REAR DISC

16.INSTALL REAR DISC BRAKE CALIPER ASSY LH


pic 7


17.INSTALL REAR AXLE SHAFT LH NUT

(a)Install a new axle shaft LH nut. Torque: 294 Nm, (3,000 kgf cm, 217 ft.lbf)

(b)Using a chisel and a hammer, stake the axle shaft LH nut.

18.INSTALL SPEED SENSOR REAR LH

19.INSTALL REAR WHEEL

20.CHECK ABS SPEED SENSOR SIGNAL

___________________________________________

Let me know if this helps.

Take care,
Joe7

Hi Joe,

This seems fine. I will now get to work and let you know how I make out. Hope I don't do any damage, lol.
Thanks a lot.
Tego

Hi,

You are very welcome. Let me know how things work out for you or if you have other questions.

Take care and Happy New Year.

Joe

Hi Joe,

Hope you are having a Happy New Year. I am back with other questions. Please take a look at the attach pictures. After I cleaned up the rust on the spindle, do I apply bearing grease to the gear portion? (picture 1) Second question, what tool do I have to use to get the parking brake cable from the attach brake hardware in order to run it through the new backing plate? (picture 2).

Thanks,
tego

I use a large side cutter for electrical work. Squeeze the jaws between the loops of the spring, then use it to slide that spring back away from the parking brake lever. Squeeze tighter to hold that spring to the cable. That will provide plenty of slack to allow the cable to be tilted out of the lever.

Hi Joe,

Thank you, that was so easy (lol). I had to laugh at myself for the fact that I did not think that the spring could move.
Tego

Tego,

Glad to hear you got it fixed. LOL I'm presently in the hospital and am beyond ready to go home.

Regardless, I'm glad it's fixed. Take care and feel free to come back any time in the future.

Joe

Sorry to hear. Wishing you a speedy recovery and my prayers are with you.

Thank you. Let us know if we can help in the future.

Joe

Joe,

I was doing very well (see attached), now I am stuck and the new nut is not tightening far enough. I think I messed up some of the thread. Yes, I knew you told me to unstake the nut before removing it but I forgot to. Is there a way I can easily repair the spindle thread?
Tego

Is it the spindle or the nut which is bad? I can't tell by the pic. As far as repairs, it really is based on how bad the damage is. I know there are thread cleaner sets that function as taps that will repair a damaged thread, but if they are too badly damaged, it won't help.
Can you get a close up of the damage so I can better see it?

Joe

I believe the spindle thread got messed up when I tried to tighten the nut using socket and wrench. Because it got stuck at the point where the cut out starts on the spindle. I took it off and tried hand tighten it but that's as far as it will go. I think it needs to go another 2 inches to be flush with the bearing hub. I hope I explained it good enough so you can understand it. the picture shows the spindle on both sides and with the nut up to cut out.
Thanks,
Tego

The threads on the axle look really good. Are you sure the nut isn't bad?

Joe

I bought a new nut (M22 x 1.5mm Dorman Spindle Lock Nut Kit 615-224) and that one is not going on at all. Unless it is not the right size. What do you think?
Thanks for your help.
Tego

If it is the wrong one, it won't work. Are they sure at the parts store that they gave you the right one? Can you make a video showing what is happening with both? If I was there, it would be much easier, but chances are we are a thousand miles apart. LOL

On the axle, inspect the starter threads to make sure they weren't damaged.

Let me know. In the worst case, we will need to replace the axle. I will help you through that and they aren't that expensive.

Also, I looked at your pics again and everything looks good. I'm not sure what is causing the problem. Ask the parts store to pull an axle for your vehicle and then compare the axle nut they sold you and the one on the new axle.

Let me know what I can do to help.

Joe