Engine misfiring?

Has the check engine light come on? Also, have you checked fuel pump pressure?

This guide will hep us fix it

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/engine-misfires-or-runs-rough

Joe

I am having trouble with my engine. I had AutoZone pull the codes from the car's computer and it said that I have an EGR system fault in the solenoid circuit, and a misfire detected in cylinder #5. How do I (on an extremely tight budget) find what is the cause without replacing this and that till it is fixed(usually at a high cost) HELP!

We need to know the exact code(s) you get and also which engine you have. Either V6 2.7L (4-door) or V6 3.0L (2-door). We need the 8th digit of your VIN.

Codes are P0403 (EGR) and P0305(cylinder #5 misfire) Engine type is 3.0L V6

Typically when you have P0403, you will also have a cylinder misfire.

P0403 - Exhaust Gas Recirculation Circuit Malfunction

The Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) system is controlled by a vacuum solenoid. The solenoid is supplied ignition voltage. The Powertrain Control Module (PCM) controls the vacuum solenoid by grounding the control circuit(ground) or driver. The primary function of the driver is to supply ground for the object that is being controlled. Each driver has a fault circuit that the PCM monitors. When the PCM turns a component on, the control circuit voltage is low, or close to zero. When the component is turned off, the voltage on the control circuit is high, or near battery voltage. The PCM watches for these conditions, and if it doesn't see the proper voltage at the proper time, this code is set.

Potential Symptoms

Usually a fault in the control circuit, will leave no noticeable symptoms other than the Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) illumination. However, if the EGR control solenoid is stuck open due to debris, etc. the code may be accompanied by misfire under acceleration, rough idle, or engine dying altogether.

Causes

The causes for a P0403 EGR code could be any of the following:

* Bad EGR solenoid
* Excessive resistance in control circuit (PCM controlled ground) due to an open, chafing or damage to the harness
* Poor connection at the EGR solenoid harness (worn or loose pins)
* Water intrusion at the EGR solenoid harness
* Blockage in EGR control solenoid holding solenoid open or closed causing excessive resistance
* Loss of supply voltage to EGR solenoid
* Bad PCM

Possible Solutions

With the ignition on and engine off, use a scan tool to activate the EGR solenoid. Listen or feel for a clicking, indicating that the solenoid is operating.

If the solenoid does operate, you'll have to check current draw on the ground circuit. It should be less than one amp. If it is then the problem is intermittent. If it isn't then there is excessive resistance in the circuit and perform the following

1. When it's activated see if you can blow lightly through it. If you can't there may be a blockage causing excessive resistance. Replace EGR solenoid as needed. If there is no blockage, disconnect the EGR solenoid and the PCM connector containing the EGR solenoid control circuit. Using a digital Volt-Ohm meter (DVOM) check resistence between the control circuit and battery ground. It should be infinite. If it isn't, then there is a short to ground on the control circuit. Repair the short to ground and retest as needed.

2. If the solenoid doesn't click as it should, disconnect the EGR solenoid connector and connect a test light between the two wires. Using the scan tool, command the EGR solenoid on. The light should light up. If it does, replace the EGR solenoid. If it does not perform the following:
a. Check for 12 Volts on the ignition supply voltage to the solenoid. If it isn't present, inspect the supply circuit for an open, or a short due to chafing or breakage and re-test.
b. If it still doesn't operate: then manually ground the EGR solenoid control circuit. The light should light. If it does, repair open in EGR solenoid control circuit and re-test. If it doesn't, replace EGR solenoid.

I am having a problem I changed my battery and checked my alternator and checked all Leeds, cleaned them and checked fuses. My car dies while running checked codes getting p1500 and code for number 5 cylinder miss fire. Could it be my coils or crank sensor?

is he battery dead?

Yes

charge the battery and load test the battery.then u need to check the charging sys.

Did that it is good

my car skips and cuts back when i try to accelerate and sometimes is hard to crank

Has the check engine light ever come on?

I just had a new distributor, ditributor cap, spark plugs and wires put in my car after it refused to start. Now, two weeks later, as my car just idles and when driving, trys to accelerate out of 1st gear it shakes violently, chugs, has a bad smell and finally thumps into 2nd. After that is drives fine, but if it has to down shift and then accelerate again, I almost get struck by other drivers. The friend I had do the tune up for me says it seems like it's misfiring, does this sound correct?

Welcome to the forum, if only acts-up when trying to shift, maybe a tranny issue? Have the trouble codes checked, see if anything shows up? Does it act-up if you increase the rpms while in park position?

Yes, it does act up if idling at all.

I just had a new distributor, ditributor cap, spark plugs and wires put in, about two weeks ago when my car refused to start. Now, when it is idle and trying to shift out of 1st it shakes violently, chugs, smells bad and then finally, thumps into 2nd. Once it's in 2nd it's fine unless I have to slow down so it downshifts and then accelerate again, it starts all over. The friend I had do the tune up says it seems like its misfiring, does this sound right?

When was the last tune-up? badly needed one will cause the transmission not to function properly other causes below:

Dirty fuel injectors (cleaning the injectors often fixes this).
Bad MAP (manifold absolute pressure) sensor
Bad TPS (throttle position) sensor
Bad or dirty MAF (mass airflow) sensor
Low fuel pressure (leaky fuel pressure regulator or weak fuel pump)
Vacuum leaks (intake manifold, vacuum hoses, throttle body, EGR valve)
Bad gasoline (fuel contaminated with water or too much alcohol)

Sometimes, what feels like a hesitation is actually ignition misfire rather than lean misfire. The causes of ignition misfire may include:

Dirty or worn spark plugs
Bad plug wires
Weak ignition coil
Wet plug wires

Originally I pulled a #1 spark plug wire to check that it is firing while the car was running.
It started missing worse when I pulled #1. 2-4 are firing, but #1 isn't. I put #1 plug in 2 -4 and the plug worked fine in those.
I have replaced wires, and plugs. Runs, sounds like a lawn mower, sputters when accelerating, the timing is right on, and compression good.

hat is compression on a gauge if a 20% variant then it's not good. it could be a vacuum leak and ora head gasket or an inector problem have a pro scan for codes

Thank you for responding. I will have autozone check for codes tomorrow! Jamie

you'll probably geta 300 series code but a m=pro needs to scan it in a mode 6 so he can see whatelse is going on

Would a cylinder not firing be a coil pack? I will have codes read tomorrow. Trying to figure this out myself......I'm a female......we don't like to give up lol

i have a 1997 stratus 2.4l auto od . my problem is the motor will start running rough and backfiring at any given time. it has 2 fault codes po352 coil primary circuit b and p1391 cam and crank sensors not insync. i have installed everything new coil ,plugs ,wires and cam and crank sensors.i have checked the engine wiring harness, nothing has worked . one thing that seems to work [this will sound strange]is that when i turn on the ac it will smooth out . it appears that when it will start acting up, the check engine lite will start acting up ,flashing off and on , not like setting a fault cde but acting like it is shorting out. have you heard of this kind of a problem before and if so any solution ?

I need you to check the idle air control valve. It is on the throttle body. Remove it and see if the valve is free and working.

Let me know what you find.
Joe

it cold be a coil pack but that is why a pro needs to scan it so he can test stuff like that. autoparts can't do that with their machines

hi joe , checked iac ,seems to be fine , changes steps with change in air/fuel mixture and rpms

Okay, that is one item we can eliminate. Have you checked the EGR to make sure it isn't sticking or plugged? Also, any vacuum leaks?

hi joe , i have checked all of the basic ! no vacuum leaks ,checked cam timing ,checked tension on timing belt , checked all sensors values . everything has checked out good!checked fuel pressure, checked compression . the only thing i 've found is when i have my scanner ,snap-on solus, hooked up ,i notice computer is loosing cam and crank sync,most of the time this is an indication of timing belt/ cam timing problem but again i have checked out timing belt and cam timing .once again all good! a little about my history , i have worked for a five star cpdj dealer for 15 years and i'am a gold level A tech but this the first time that i have been stumped!!!!!

That helps knowing who I'm talking with. Often times I have to explaine what an oil cap is or how to open a hood (lol).

Between the two of us, we should be able to figure this out. I feel the two codes you have are tied together. Have you checked both sensors as well as the coil? (you may have already mentioned it, but I don't remember reading it.) The other thing I'm thinking is wiring to them.

yea,checked sensors ,coil ,pcm ,removed wiring harness checked for shorts,opens and melted wiring . everything checked out okay . i 'am not a parts changer but in this case i tried new sensors and pcm .nothing seems to make a difference

The only thing left is the PCM. WHat do you think?

already tried another pcm . same symptoms.

You've done it all. Since there is a backfire, have you checked to make sure there isn't a burnt valve?

Bear with me, at this point, I'm trying to think of anything that could cause the problem.

compression good across the board!i just ordered a new wiring harness, maybe i'll find the answer there!

Let me know what you find. You could have a bad wire in there.

Got the code from the chck engine light and it is cylinder 2 is misfiring. Has new plugs and wires. When we pulled the boots off of the spark plugs, cylinder 4 was halfway full of engine oil. We did notice that it didn't seal quite as well as the other 3. What needs to be done to fix this.

If the oil is still present in the cylinder head, you need to get it out. Siphoning works well. Then, you need to replace the valve cover gasket and spark plug tube seals.

My stratus started running rough then died and wouldn't start. I towed it home and let it sit a couple of days. Now it starts, idles fine for about five minutes, starts running rough, then dies, then it won't start. If you let it sit over night, then it will start and do the above symptoms all over again. I had the OBD codes checked and it said the engine was misfiring, but did not give a cause. Where can I start to fix this?

Give us the codes from the OBD-ii scanner. And, do you have the 2.0L or the 2.4L?

I believe the code was P004 misfiring, I had the local napa check the codes and I didn't write it down. They deleted the code and the engine light has not come back on. I have the 2.4L. Thanks for your help