1992 Dodge Shadow car ran okay then parked one night next d

If it was me I'll check the fuel pressure to find out what's happenng with the fuel filter/In-tank strainer and fuel pump and also check for injection duration from the injector/s. Also test the coolant temperature sensor

tried a new temp sensor and seems to be getting plenty of fuel i put in ether and still won't start just keeps on cranking i tried turning the distributor and it seems like it tries to catch a little bit better what could cause this to be the problem

Put the engine no.1 piston on its compression stroke and open up the dizzy cap and verify that the ignition rotor is pointing at the no.1 cap tower-

how can i be sure that the number one piston is on the compression stroke and not the exhaust stroke. i can put a screwdriver in and make sure it is at tdc but not sure if it is compression stroke or exhaust

Feel the pressure as you crank in bursts stop and manually turn the crank till it read TDC/0 at timing scale, also you can open up the valve cover and check the valves on the no.1 is should be rocking meaning both valves are closed

i took out all 4 spark plugs again and scrubbed them with ether and a toothbrush and then filed off the carbon with a nail file and sprayed them again with ether to clean off the file stuff and the carbon and put them back in and now if i hold the gas pedal 1/4th of the way down it starts but runs at a very low rpm and very rough but if i push the gas pedal down any further it stalls but starts right back up at 1/4th gas pedal. what do you think now.

Have you checked the fuel pressure? I need this information before we go into different areas.

how do i check the fuel pressure i know that fuel is getting into the throttle body because i can see vapors coming out especially when it stalls. let me ask you even if the fuel pressure was low wouldn't it still idle pretty decent i don't have a fuel pressure checker. what the symptoms be if the car had bad gas in the tank???

Low fuel pressure and bad fuel will cause it to run rough/misfire

i was asking how to check the fuel pressure do i have to have a special tool??

You need a fuel pressure gauge designed for your fuel injection system

with the #1 piston at tdc and the hole in the cam gear at the top they line up however there isn't any mark that lines up on the flywheel so what do you think that indicates. i couldn't get a fuel pressure guage..... thanks i appreciate you helping

What engine 2.2L or 2.5L?

2.2

okay everything lines up and since i cleaned the plugs it runs at a very low rpm with the gas pedal down 1/4th of the way but if i push it any further it stalls i am going to get a fuel filter now do you think i should get anything else to try b4 removing the fuel pump what about the fuel injector or the cam sensor or the crankshaft sensor or something like that

Test the throttle position and manifold absolute pressure sensors-BTW are you positively sure your in the no. 1 compression stroke, and not in the exhaust stroke before you line-up the sprockets.

okay put in a bottle of heet water remover and anit freeze, replaced all the spark plugs and put in 2 and 1/2 gallons of gas and it is running better than it has been and going to a higher rpm however it is backfiring and sputtering and stalling i don't know what the throttle position sensor is or where it is or that pressure thing you just said can you please clarify

Do you have a repair manual?

no i do not have a repair manual

Sir you need a repair manual this can drag on and can get complicated as we go I suggest you get one then comeback for more help

The throttle position sensor is on the throttle body and you need a voltmeter to test the closed/WOT voltages and as for the fuel pressure, you need a fuel pressure gauge-This two can cause your problem

Mr Rasmataz:
I do not have much money as you probably can tell otherwise I would not be trying to drive a 1992 dodge shadow that is broken and I am extremely cold trying to fix this car. i know a little about cars and my tool supply is very limited. I had a choice to either buy a manual or donate 25 dollars to this site for your help so I made what I thought was the wiser of the two decisions because i would have someone to answer questions and possibly get my car on the road. now i have missed 3 days of work my electric is due and probably going to get cut off tomorrow any way i was hoping that the investment of 25 dollars to help me was the wiser of the two instead of the manual. i hope you understand my decision to give the money to 2carpros instead of getting the manual. by the way where does the 25 bucks i donated go.

Lets keep going-Did you replace the fuel filter? Can you be able to identify the idle speed motor and throttle position sensor on the throttle body-I don't have a pic to point for you. If so try cleaning it out and see what happens

i replaced the fuel filter and no change so i am going to try to locate the idle position sensor and the throttle positioning sensor now and i will get back to you if the map sensor was bad would it make it misfire and backfire and run rough and stall and all that good stuff

The computer uses the MAP sensor to measure engine load so ignition timing can be advanced and retarded as needed. No the MAP won't do all that stuffs

A rough idle or stalling. A large vacuum leak can lean the air/fuel mixture out to such an extent that an engine will not idle at all. An EGR valve that is stuck open at idle can have the same effect as a vacuum leak. So too can a loose positive crankcase ventilation (PCV) hose, a leaky PCV valve or the wrong PCV valve (one that flows too much air for the application). If somebody replaced the PCV valve recently, they may have installed the wrong PCV valve. The rough idle in all of these cases is caused by "lean misfire." The fuel mixture is too lean to ignite reliably so it often misfires and fails to ignite at all. Lean misfire will show up as elevated hydrocarbon (HC) readings in the exhaust, which may be enough to cause a vehicle to fail an emissions test.

Hesitation or misfiring when accelerating. This may be due to a vacuum leak, but it can also be caused by dirty fuel injectors, a weak fuel pump (low fuel pressure) or a faulty fuel pressure regulator. It can also be caused my ignition misfire due to worn or fouled spark plugs, bad spark plug wires, or weak ignition coil.

The important thing to keep in mind about vacuum leaks is that they have the most noticeable effect at idle. At part and full throttle, more air is entering the engine through the throttle opening so a vacuum leak has less effect on the air/fuel ratio

Hi Johnny,
We appreciate the donation, but we will be glad to refund it if it helps you afford the online repair manual you are going to need to help locate and troubleshoot your cars problem.

here are some new codes it is giving 12, 22, 24, 25, 55 now the car won't even start at all today. i am hoping that one of these codes is for the crankshaft position sensor or something definitive. thanks for your help

Diagnostic Trouble Codes - 1992
Chrysler
11 Engine has not been cranked since battery was disconnected.
13 MAP sensor pneumatic circuit.
14 MAP sensor electrical circuit.
15 Vehicle speed/distance sensor.
17 Engine running too cool.
21 Oxygen sensor circuit.
22 Coolant temperature sensor circuit.
24 Throttle position sensor.
25 IAC motor driven circuit.
27 Fault in injector driver interface circuit.
31 Purge solenoid circuit.
32 Fault in EGR diagnostics.
33 A/C cutout relay circuit.
35 Fan control relay circuit.
41 Charging system excess or no field current.
42 ASD relay circuit.
43 Fault in ignition coil control circuit.
44 Battery Temp Voltage.
46 Battery voltage too high.
47 Battery voltage too low.
51 Oxygen feedback system stuck at lean position.
52 Oxygen feedback system stuck at rich position.
53 Internal logic module problems.
54 Fault in the distributor high data rate pickup circuit.
55 Completion of fault code display.
62 Indicates unsuccessful attempt to update EMR mileage.
63 Unsuccessful attempt to write to an EEPROM location by the controller.

Are you getting spark at this point? Recheck it

yes it has spark but what is an IAC motor driven circuit

Its an automatic idle speed motor it targets the idle speed at all times and report changes to the computer

TEST DR-17A - AUTOMATIC IDLE SPEED (AIS) MOTOR CIRCUITS (DTC 25)
NOTE:For connector terminal identification, see CONNECTOR IDENTIFICATION . For appropriate wiring diagram, see WIRING DIAGRAMS .

Disconnect AIS motor connector. Turn ignition switch to ON position. Using DRB-II, actuate AIS motor. Put DRB-II in voltmeter mode. Probe Gray/Red wire in AIS motor connector. When normal, voltage will switch from less than one volt to more than 10 volts.
If voltage is less than one volt, repair short to ground in Gray/Red wire. Perform VERIFICATION PROCEDURE VER-2 . If voltage is more than one volt, check if voltage is more than 10 volts. If voltage is more than 10 volts, repair short to voltage in Gray/Red wire. Perform VERIFICATION PROCEDURE VER-2 . If voltage is less than 10 volts, go to next step.
Probe terminal No. 2 (Yellow/Black wire) in AIS motor connector. If voltage is less than one volt, repair short to ground in Yellow/Black wire. If voltage is more than one volt, check if voltage is more than 10 volts. If voltage is more than 10 volts, repair short to voltage in Yellow/Black wire. Perform VERIFICATION PROCEDURE VER-2 . If voltage is less than 10 volts, go to next step.
Probe terminal No. 3 (Brown/White wire) in AIS motor connector. If voltage is less than one volt, repair short to ground in Brown/White wire. Perform VERIFICATION PROCEDURE VER-2 . If voltage is more than one volt, go to next step.
Probe Violet/Black wire in AIS motor connector. If voltage is less than one volt, repair short to ground in Violet/Black wire. Perform VERIFICATION PROCEDURE VER-2 . If voltage is more than one volt, turn ignition switch to OFF position. Reconnect AIS motor connector. Disconnect Single Board Engine Controller (SBEC) connector.
Check resistance between terminals No. 39 (Gray/Red wire) and 59 (Violet/Black wire) using an external ohmmeter. Replace defective AIS motor if resistance is less than 35 ohms. Perform VERIFICATION PROCEDURE VER-2 . If resistance is more than 35 ohms, go to next step.
Check resistance between terminals No. 40 (Brown/White wire)and 60 (Yellow/Black wire). If resistance is less than 35 ohms, replace defective AIS motor. Perform VERIFICATION PROCEDURE VER-2 . If resistance is more than 35 ohms, go to next step.
Check resistance between terminals No. 39 (Gray/Red wire) and 60 (Yellow/Black wire). If resistance is less than 10 ohms, Yellow/Black wire is shorted to Gray/Red wire. Repair as necessary. Perform VERIFICATION PROCEDURE VER-2 . If resistance is more than 10 ohms, check if resistance is less than 75 ohms. If resistance is more than 75 ohms, go to next step. If resistance is less than 75 ohms, go to step 10 .
If resistance is 75-120 ohms, Brown/White wire is shorted to Violet/Black wire. Repair wiring as necessary. Perform VERIFICATION PROCEDURE VER-2 . If resistance is more than 120 ohms, replace SBEC. Perform VERIFICATION PROCEDURE VER-2 .
If resistance between terminals No. 39 and 60 is less than 75 ohms in step 8), check resistance between terminals No. 59 (Violet/Black wire) and 60 (Yellow/Black wire). If resistance is less than 10 ohms, Yellow/Black wire is shorted to Violet/Black wire; if resistance is more than 10 ohms, Gray/Red wire is shorted to Brown/White wire. Repair wiring as necessary. Perform VERIFICATION PROCEDURE VER-2 .

i am waiting for a friend to come over with a meter but if that IAC is bad would that or could that cause a no start condition

The idle speed control motor is to maintain the idle speed at all times.

When the engine cranks normally but won't start, you need to check ignition, fuel and compression.

here is what i come up with i once again replaced the spark plugs and it starts and runs very rough and it seems like it runs the best in the beginning. then as the plugs get a carbon build up on them(and this seems to happen rather fast) it dies a slow death doesn't get as many rpms and gradually won't start at all again until i put in new plugs again so i can get approximately 15 minutes of running out of a set of plugs. does that seem to point to anything to you but now remember the timing is dead on and it backfires pretty bad the hole time. thanks a lot i appreciate your time.