1990 Dodge Shadow No power to fuel pump

The pump should get power for 2 seconds or thereabout, with key in on position, if not check the relay, here's a wiring diagram to help trace any shots, and locate the grounds.

ENTERING ON-BOARD DIAGNOSTICS PLEASE READ THIS FIRST * CHECK ENGINE LIGHT DIAGNOSTIC MODE 1. Start engine (if possible). Move transmission shift lever through all positions, ending in Park. Turn A/C switch on, then off (if equipped). 2. Turn engine off. Without starting engine again, turn ignition on, off, on, off and on. Record 2-digit fault codes as displayed by flashing check engine light. 3. For example, Code 23 is displayed as flash, flash, 4-second pause, flash, flash, flash. After a slightly longer pause, other codes stored are displayed in numerical order. 4. Once check engine light begins to flash fault codes, it cannot be stopped. If you loose count, it will be necessary to start over. Code 55 indicates end of fault code display. 5. Refer to FAULT CODES table to translate trouble code number to a system fault description (DRB-II display). Once trouble area is identified, refer to NO START TEST 1 (NS-1) or DRIVEABILITY TEST 1 (DR-1) trouble shooting chart to diagnose problem. Use trouble shooting chart titles to find appropriate chart. 6. As an example, a 3.0L engine starts and runs, but has a driveability problem. Check engine light indicates a Code 14. Refer to FAULT CODES table to translate trouble code number to a system fault description (DRB-II display). 7. When system fault description (DRB-II display) is obtained, refer to DRIVEABILITY TEST 1 (DR-1) since vehicle has a driveability problem. Follow DR-1 chart until it leads you to a diamond box that asks: IS FAULT MAP VOLTAGE TOO LOW? This box will refer you to DR- 4 for diagnosis. NOTE: Manufacturer recommends using DRB-II (Diagnostic Readout Box-II, C- 4805) to diagnose the system. Check engine light function has limited diagnostic usage.

A short addendum to my problem. I checked the ASD relay for power. Like the fuse and the pump connector, the relay has power ONLY when the key is turned to START. The relay does not turn on when the key is turned to ON.


How do I read the wiring diagrams you sent? The print is too small for me to read.

Have you tried enlarging them a bit? Worked for me anyway...check email!

The print is so small that it gets unreadable when I enlarge the jpeg files.

Bought the wiring diagrams. I noticed that the ASD relay has a fusible link on it. Would that stop the relay from energizing? Pin 30 has battery power to it with the key in the OFF position.

Would a faulty ignition switch cause the ASD relay not to energize when the key is turned to ON? The car will start but when the key returns to ON, the engine dies shortly thereafter. I really hate electrical issues and that seems to be what this is.

Lets get under the car and unplug the fuel pump connector, test with a DVOM as shown.

And yes if the fuse links at the ASD is blown the ASD will not power up!

I don't wish to sound unappreciative regarding the help you've offered so far. Without even crawling under the car I can tell you that with the key in the ON position there are 0 volts at the pump conncetor. The fuse and ASD relay also have 0 volts when the key is in the ON position. The pump connector, fuse, and ASD relay all have 12 volts when the key is turned to the START position. I know believe the issue lies either in a fusible link or the ignition switch but I'm not sure how to test either.

Please shoot me an email.

I did that already and your address is no good! Got email returned.

try it again, I changed the email in my profile.

I ran the SCEM codes today. I didn't expect any since I had disconnected the battery when I replaced the ASD relay. Much to my surprise I found the following codes

27 and 42

27 is an injector control circuit code

42 is an open or shorted condition in the ASD circuit.

Please advise me how to proceed. I've traced the ASD relay wires and as I said, one of the Red/White wires that is connected to the fusible link has 12V to it at all times, the other goes to the SCEM. I assume that it is functional. I'll test that pin later.

Regarding code 27, what, exactly, should I be checking on that injector circuit?

To begin, I don't have a DRB II so I hope running these tests with a regular voltmeter/ohm meter is ok.

I ran test NS-14 for the code 42. It told me to replace the engine controller. I take it that this is referring to the engine computer.

Are the ECU's interchangable between years if the motor and tranny types are the same?

i.e. will an ECU from a 93 shadow with 2.2 and AT fit my 90?

I want to verify that I ran test NS-14 correctly and I'm interpreting the results correctly.

I turned on the key to "on" and measured the voltage the ASD DB/Y wire. Voltage read 12V.

I turned the key off and removed the 60 pin connector from the SMEC. I inspected pin 51 and discovered no pin/terminal damage and the pin was not pushed out.

I turned the key back on and measured the voltage in cavity 51 on the 60 pin connector. Voltage read ~12V. Test indicates ECU is bad.

I did not reconnect the 60 pin connector as the flow chart does not indicate I should. Should I reconnect the connector and test pin 51? I don't really see how I can do that.

Isent a few more tests, as far as the swap of the smec, if the part numbers are the same you can, if not, the connector may be different.

Performed NS-12 and NS-14 today. Both indicate the ECU needs replaced. My question remains this, even though I do not have a DRB-II, are the tests still valid because I use a multimeter.

If it called for voltmeter I would say yes, but if you must, Chrysler can tell you!