2001 Dodge Ram Vibration when turning to the right

Did the vibration change what-so-ever with any of these repairs?

This definitly the front?
Front vibration is more appearent in the steering wheel rear vibration in the seat is more promenent.

I ask this because this may be a driveline or transmission issue.

IF you let off the accelerator, does the vibration change?

What shape are the front brake rotors in? Do any of the rims have a significant temperature difference after a short drive?

The vibration that was there when I was driving straight has completely gone away. There is some improvement in the vibration when turning at low speeds, but it is just as bad at high speeds. It gets worse the further I turn.

It is DEFINITELY in the front end. I can hear it coming from the front end, but I cannot identify a tire. My wife claims she can feel the vibrations in the floorboard on the passenger side.

Letting off the accelerator or using the accelerator does not change the vibration. I'm fairly certain this is not a driveline or transmission issue.

The rotors are in pretty bad shape, but I had them professionally turned about six months ago. The issue also does not appear to be related to braking or not braking - there is no difference in the vibration between the two.

Two thoughts on this right now is that the rotor(s) may be the source. You could try swapping from side to side or replace them.

Try a test drive with a few turns and feel the fronts for a difference in temperature. Look at the caliper foe excessive wear or stiffness in the caliper slide areas or when the pads move on the bracket.

Also check for a twisted hose that may be restricteing flow when turned.

I'll see if I can upload some pics later to help out.

What did you torque the axle nut too? IF this were mine, I would look close at the brakes. May not be the source, but they are admittedly bad. Frankly...For the vast majority, Rotors are no longer machinable....and still functionable. If you need em, replace em. When if it doesn't solve the problem. Fair chance it will. Get new pads too. THey both need a flat surface to meet . Look at the bracket..It there wear into it or is it flat so pads can slide? Any grooves..replace it. The pins, boots and caliper holes are often a problem if they don't work together.

The pins MUST be clean and well lubed.

Very often with these it the corrosion builds up behing the boot in the caliper hole the boot sets in. It swells and the pin can't move.

The Pin MUST move freely. The pads must move freely. MAke sure the caliper is installed so that the hose is not twisted but, relaxed.

If there is any resistance in the pin movement, remove the rubber boot carefully or replace them. You will not likely be able to just pull it out unless you separate it from the caliper with a dull screwdriver or similiar. Ream out the hole that the boot sets in with a plumber's wire brush, die grinder or what ever you have to clean it out, apply a thin coating of lube and reinstall the boot. Wire wheel the pin and lube it. It should now move freely. IF there is any pitting on the pin, replacement is best.

These surface need to be clean, flat and lubed as well. ANy divots from wear will trap the pad preventing movement.

This may or may not be your source, but is where I would go to at this point.

So, while swapping the rotors, and inspecting the calipers which look fine, I noticed that the right (passenger) wheel hub grinds when I turn it with my hand. This was supposedly replaced six months ago. However, I've heard that the side you turn to to hear the vibration is the opposite side of the hub bearing problem. The left wheel (which I replaced myself - torqued to 185 ft-lb) does not grind at all. I will get back to you if this is not the issue.

That is not necessariily true on the bearings...generally but not always.

What quality bearing? Brand?

No way it should grind...That side someone else did?...
Knowing this brake system, I am really surprized the pins move freely. Here in NY they are most often very stiff to move.