battery light on

Sounds like you may have a bad drive belt or belt tensioner. There isnt much room on those cars, but you will need to see if the tensioner is holding tension on the belt.If it is, remove the belt and see if any of the accessories are rough when turned by hand. Since the belt has been slipping, a new one may be needed

Lets check this guide out

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-a-car-alternator

Hello –

If you can narrow the odor down to the type that would help. You know it isn’t fuel or antifreeze. Then is it rubber, electrical, oil something like that?

Next, sounds like it isn’t getting enough power and is getting ready to die, ie battery lights etc., it may be a belt slipping……so do the below and do a good visual inspection on the belt.

The nice thing about the below, it is free.

Please go to Auto Zone or O’Reilly’s and for FREE they can pull the codes to the car. Most important: Once they check your codes, if they find something and you don’t get it fixed and need to get back with us, please make sure you tell us exactly what the code was, number and all. Example, if the code was E0568 O2 Sensor bad. Then make sure you give us all of that. While there for FREE also they can bring their tester out and check your battery, alternator and starter.

If the above doesn’t show anything, we may need to do the below test…..you can anyway if you would like.

We need to figure out if it is electrical or fuel related. Pull a plug wire off of the spark plug and insert something into the end of it and have someone try to start the car and have the metal object really close to a piece of metal on the engine and see if you are getting a good strong popping blue spark. Don’t have your hands on any part of the metal!!! If there is no spark, then it is electrical. If you are getting good spark then you need to get a fuel pressure check on the fuel pump to ensure it is putting out okay.

Let me know what you find out and we will take it from there.

Also, if you need to get back with me let me know what the 8th digit of your VIN is.

2003 Dodge Neon Two Wheel Drive Automatic

I have been having trouble with my girlfriend's neon for a while now. the battery light keeps coming on. the battery is a little low on water, but nothing to be too worried about. lately its been dying on my alot. tonight it wouldn't start, so i had athe nieghbor help me jump it. now the spedometer wont register. any ideas?

You need to have the charging system tested first. Local part stores such as AutoZone will test your alternator and battery for free of charge, both on and off of vehicle. Post results of the tests. If after replacement of the defective battery and/or alternator, the speedo is still not registering we can deal with that then.


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Replaced the battery. bat light still comes on. and now on the odometer it flashes "fuse."

Okay, check your fuses..

Just because battery is replaced doesn't mean the alternator is good. If alternator is faulty it will eventually drain the new battery too..You need to have it tested..


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Autozone tested battery said it was good got my alretnator replaced and my charge system was tested it said i had a bad voltage regulator so i replaced the computer and its still on along with low idle

Do you have a multimeter to do some testing?

not on hand at the moment

also have battery out on slow charge

When you get the multimeter and get the battery charged let me know.We will go from there.

My neon has 15500km on it. Recently the battery light comes on. Tonight i noticed that the interior lights, spedometer anf radio, where not a bright as they normally are. What is wrong and what should be done to repair it?

If I were you I'd get the alternator tested soon,Check the belt first! It sounds like the battery is not being charged.

About a month ago, the engine developed a whine. Finally took it to Advance Auto to have alternator checked. They said the battery is good, the alternator is bad. Took it to mechanic and had new alternator installed. Picked up car, drove less than a mile and battery light came back on. Took car back to mechanic who tested for two days and said it appears to be a computer problem and must go to dealer. At this point, the alternator and battery are still good. Take car to dealer who says their diagosis is that car needs a new alternator($498.00) and battery($102.00). I already spent $255.00 last week for a new alternator. What's going on? Could there be some sort of short or something? Also, I generally drive less than 8,000 miles a year an the battery was installed in June of 2007.

Have someone else check the wiring from the alternator to the battery. Simple test. With the engine running, use a voltmeter to check the voltage on the alternator. You should have more than 13 volts, but less than 15.9 volts. Then test the battery (still with engine running). You should have about the same voltage you have at the alternator.

If the voltage fluctuates too much, than the voltage regulator is faulty. I am almost certain that the regular is a part of your computer.

Electrical problem
1998 Dodge Neon 130000 miles
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Sometimes when I turn my car on a battery light comes on. I just got a new battery a couple of weeks ago and it still does it. I checked the cables and they are on right. I'm scared that one day my car will just quit working. What do you think is wrong with it?

[quote:7584a2e079="afeltus"]Electrical problem
1998 Dodge Neon 130000 miles
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Sometimes when I turn my car on a battery light comes on. I just got a new battery a couple of weeks ago and it still does it. I checked the cables and they are on right. I'm scared that one day my car will just quit working. What do you think is wrong with it?[/quote:7584a2e079]

Check alternator belt
check charging system and fuses
do an alternator test

1996 Dodge Neon

battery light came on thought it was altenator..had it checked..good...replaced battery..drove for two days...back on..did the codes check...came out generator and regulator...what is this and how can i replace this?please help

Have alt. checked again most likely a bad diode.

If alternator is still testing good but you're not getting charged check the wire, it runs from back of alternator to the starter where the battery cable bolts up.

Electrical problem
1996 Dodge Neon 4 cyl Two Wheel Drive Automatic
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I have replaced the battery, starter, altenator and checked all the fuses in my car the cables appear to be in good shape but the battery light continues to stay on, the negative cable was removed for all these repairs so I know the computer has been reset, I have also replaced the computer.
Can you Help?

Thanks in advance,
Sherry

Using MIL Faults may be retrieved using MIL on instrument panel or scan tool. To activate MIL, turn ignition key ON-OFF-ON-OFF-ON within 5 seconds. Count number of times MIL flashes on and off. This represents the Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC). Following is a brief description of DTCs and conditions.  Code 12 Battery feed to PCM has been interrupted within last 50-100 engine starts. PCM monitors this circuit whenever ignition is on.  Code 41 Generator field control fails to switch properly. PCM monitors this circuit whenever ignition is on.  Code 44 Battery temperature sensor voltage is out of range. PCM monitors this circuit whenever ignition is on.  Code 46 Charging system voltage is more than one volt above desired control voltage for more than 20 seconds. PCM monitors this signal whenever engine is running.  Code 47 Charging system voltage is at least one volt less than desired control voltage for more than 20 seconds. No significant change in voltage is detected during active test of generator. PCM monitors this signal whenever engine speed is more than 1500 RPM.

I just recently bought a 1996 dodge neon. It has 70,000 non-actual miles on the odometer. I have put only 69 miles on the car since purchase so i am unfamiliar with it still. This morning after about 5 minutes on the road the car seemed to die. The engine was still running, radio was still playing..only the car would not accerate and the dashboard battery light came on. This lasted about 30 seconds. After which everything was fine the rest of my approximately 35 mile trip except my speedometer which was jumping around and not working properly. Could these two problems be connected? Or do you think it is just coincidence that both problems revealed themselves at the same time? Where should i begin to look for the solution?

My first thought is the vss, vehicle speed sensor. Check for possible trouble codes. You should be able to check mil codes by cycling the ignition switch. You turn the key till the dash lites come on, no further. Cycle the key on--off, on--off, on, then the mil starts flashing, you count the flashes to get the codes. Your looking for two digit codes.

Thank you for the advice. I retrived the code it came back as 12 Direct battery input to PCM was disconnected within the last 50 key-on cycles. I'm not really certain what this is telling me besides the fact that battery power was lost.

I'd just make sure the battery has a full charge and battery connections are clean and tight on both ends. Usually problems with the speedometer relate to the vss or wiring circuits.

i have a 95 dodge neon and my car keeps cutting off and shaking/vibrating and also my battery light keeps blinking on and off

IF the RPM's are getting low enough, that can cause the light to blink on and off. As far as the shaking, check for tune up, check fuel pump pressure, check for vacuum leaks, check the idle air control valve (IAC).