1998 Dodge Intrepid car no go go

90 mph plus., huh? I didn't think an Intrepid would go that fast. Anyway, assuming you have no check engine light. I would check the EGR valve to see if it is hung open or a major vacuum leak. With all that's going on with the engine, I would expect a check engine light. Do you have one, and if so, what are the codes. Please advise.

the wyoming patrol clocked me at 93 speedo said i was only doing 90 though had it up to about 117 before. no check engine light this trip. when i was working on it last week i had one that was p1493 so i hooked the temp sensor back up on the front bumper and i can't remember what the other one was i thought it was for the fuel loop coolant temp and i regularly get a p0306 for a misfire on the #6 cyl.

would the egr valve being stuck even wide open keep the car from starting and make it die at random at highway speeds. and i seem to be having some dificulty locating my egr valve

Hello - Since Mr Weizel is already assisting you I have provided info where the EGR valve is to aid him in your response to get your car fixed quicker. You might also let him know if your car is a 2.7L VIN R or a 3.2L VIN J. The VIN is the 8th digit of your VIN number. Also is your model just a Intrepid or Intrepid ES? 1. The EGR valve attaches to the rear of the right cylinder head.

My car is the 3.2L ES model the exhaust system seems different than any i can remember seeing it looks like the manifolds against the heads come up to the front on both sides then 90 out on each side then go straight back to the cats and back i don't see anything tying off of them. its almost like the exhaust goes from the back straight to the front then straight out to the back again, dunno how else to explain it.

and how loud should the fuel pump be. this morning where it took 30 to 45 min to start the car. then i went to prime the fuel system (key off to on to off to on to off) of the 5 times i put the car to on to prime i only heard the fuel pump (i think it was the fuel pump) the last 2 times (but i also have a loss of hearing) and now where i am lucky to get the car to start at all more than 2 to 3 secs. when the problem seemed to clear up at 3000 RPM plus i was wondering if it could be tied to the throttle positioning sensor. as it stands i am 300+ miles from home, starting another 2 to 3 week run at work here at about 0300 and about 3 weeks from my next paycheck (so i'm pretty much screwed) thats why i'm hoping to get this resolved asap for as little as possible.

Hello - This one is for the 3.2L

i unplugged the egr unit from the harness and managed to get a p0406 code from it but it still won't start

I don't know if it will help you but to help you get oriented with your engine you should know that it does not sit transverse like most front drive cars. From the way you are describing the exhaust manifold it sounds like your confused (sorry). the engine is mounted like a rear wheel drive car. longitudinal.

what would keep the fuel pump from operating. all the symptoms i can think of point to the fuel pump but i replaced it and i still can't hear it when i turn the car to run and the car still won't start. seems like its not getting fuel. also when i dropped the fuel tank to replace the fuel pump there were only about 2 to 3 drops of fuel that came out.

and now the only way i get the starter or fuel pump to work is to use jumper wires in place of the relays and i don't seem to be getting any signals from the computer (using the code scanner and the turning the key off to run 3 times).

Hello –

It has been a little bit since the last post….is your vehicle still giving you the same problem and if so can you provide an update or if it is fixed now, please let us know.

I took it to the shop who charged 500.00 and said it was a broken wire from the ignition to the pcm. problem is the fuel gauge still doesn't work and if it was the pcm i would have gotten a no link message from my code reader when i tried to read it. so as it stands the vehicle runs but i don't know for how long till it decides to go on me again.

Hello - On the fuel gauge...I did find a TSB that you could check on a bad wire connector under the seat. If that isn't it then it is probably the sender on the fuel pump. If it were me....if I went to the trouble to drop the tank....I would change the entire fuel pump. Last, you may have some recalls on your vehicle. The dealer may fix these for free. Please contact the dealer service department, give them the VIN number of your car and have them check on these to see if they apply to you. Fuel System - MIL ON DTC Set/Driveability Concerns Notes NUMBER: 08-35-99 GROUP: Electrical DATE: Oct. 8, 1999 SUBJECT: MIL Illumination, Leak Detection Pump DTC and/or Fuel Gauge Inaccurate OVERVIEW: This bulletin involves replacing the inline fuel tank to left body harness connector with a sealed connector. MODELS: 1998 - 1999 (LH) Concorde/Intrepid/LHS/3OOM SYMPTOM/CONDITION: MIL illumination with Leak Detection Pump (LDP) Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC), fuel gauge reading inaccurate, fuel pump not working, and/or engine run-on. DIAGNOSIS: Using the Mopar Diagnostic System (MDS2) and/or the Diagnostic Scan Tool (DRB III) with the appropriate Diagnostic Procedures Manual, verify all engine/transmission systems are functioning as designed. If non-LDP related DTC's are present, record them on the repair order and repair as necessary before proceeding further with this bulletin. If Leak Detection Pump DTC's are present, and/or owner describes an inaccurate fuel gauge or engine run-on, inspect the C308 wire connector located under the rear seat cushion for the presence of moisture and/or corrosion. If moisture/corrosion exist, perform the Repair Procedure. PARTS REQUIRED: 1 05013984AA Insulator/Terminal Repair Kit 1 05013988AA Insulator/Terminal Repair Kit 12 04778570 Heat Shrink Tubing POLICY: Reimbursable within the provisions of the warranty. TIME ALLOWANCE: Labor Operation No: 08-90-73-90 0.8 Hrs. FAILURE CODE: P8 - New Part Repair Procedure Notes 1. Disconnect and isolate the negative battery remote cable. 2. Locate and remove the existing C308 connector by cutting the five wires (LDP equipped)/three wires (non-LDP equipped) on each side of the connector. Stagger cut all wires on the harness sides at 1/2 inch intervals. 3. Remove 1 inch of insulation from each wire on the harness sides. 4. Stagger cut the matching wires on the repair connector assemblies in the opposite order of the harness stagger. 5. Remove 1 inch of insulation from each wire on the repair connector. 6. Place a piece of heat shrink tubing over one side of the wire. 7. Spread the strands of the wire apart on each part of the exposed wires. 8. Push the two ends of wire together until the strands of wire are close to the insulation. 9. Twist the wires together. 10. Solder the connection together using rosin core solder. Do not use acid core solder. 11. Center the heat shrink tubing over the joint and heat using a heat gun. Heat the joint until the tubing is tightly sealed and sealant comes out of both ends of the tubing. 12. Repeat steps 6 through 11 for each wire. NOTE :ALL CAVITIES IN THE SIX-WAY INLINE CONNECTORS, ON BOTH SIDES OF THE CONNECTION MUST BE FILLED WITH TERMINATED WIRES. ANY WIRES THAT ARE NOT USED MUST HAVE THE NON- TERMINATED END SEALED WITH HEAT SHRINK. 13. Re-tape the wire harness and connect the connector halves. 14. Connect the negative battery remote terminal.

when i had the tank dropped i did replace the full assembly (fuel pump, tank sending unit, etc...) where is the C308 connector mentioned in that tsb i seem to have the same and reversed symptoms. (the fuel gauge is random, but instead of running on the vehicle dies on the road) i am thinking a bad connection thru the plug its mentioning removing "may" help if not then i am where i am now and resolve a tsb on my car

Hello - Sorry - read right through that.....yes.....you did replace the pump..... That TSB says it is located under the rear seat: inspect the C308 wire connector located under the rear seat cushion for the presence of moisture and/or corrosion I have attached a pic.....

i didn't find a plug to replace but there is quite the pool/puddle under the back seat. but i think i am going to try and dry out the puddle as much as i can and see if i can find where the plug used to be and see if there are any breaks in the wiring or insulation. i really really appreciate all the help i am recieving from you guys. i have been repairing my own vehicles for 15 years or better and yall are pointing out areas that i had never thought of.

WOW. i think i found the c302 plug it has 3 wires on one side and 5 to 6 in the other side. the side with 3 has corrosion coming out of the ports on the plug and 2 of the wires are bare and shorted enough to melt half the plug, the other side has the same corrosion coming out of the plug and wires corroded all the way through. i am about to do the bypas mentioned in the tsb. but i am pretty sure this will solve the problem. i will keep yall posted with how it runs.

do you happen to know which wire goes to where there are 3 coming in 6 going out

Hello - Yes please do.....I thought the TSB said connector C308......I have attached that info. I am showing 302 by the door /body area........ Interesting - if I remember the TSB it does talk about corrosion etc..... If you do find the wires/plug....be sure to check all over for that corrosion....that could go deep into the wire and be causing problems. Though it said under the seat......what about under the car......where the seat is? I just checked another manual and it says C308 is in the trunk area. I have attached another pic.....it looks to me like the wire colors are Dark Blue, Dark Green, Orange, Dark Green w/White Tracer, Black, and Light Green w/ Black tracer.

Hello –

Looks like we are sending posts at the same time…do you still want to know where those wires you found go??

I am thinking this might have been the problem and i am definately wondering how if the shop charged me 500.00 and said they went thru my electrical system they missed something like this.

so what would be the best course of action for getting my money back from the dealership seeing as how they didn't do the work they said they did.

I'm sure Impala SS is going to want to see this one.
As far as your money, I would go back with a handful of burned parts snd an attitude. Let us know how it comes out. Sad, but true fact, we hear about this kinda' stuff all the time.

Hello –

All I can say is wow……that is amazing……..okay….I gotta say….when you said “…wires are bare and shorted enough to melt half the plug…” I am thinking something different than this.

Pics speak a thousand words.

Mr Weizel is correct there………sad but we do see that.

If it were me, I would take plenty of pics and well, I can only tell you what I have done and you take it from there and do what works for you.

Someone hit the rear door on my car. I marked several parts in different places and dropped it off to the dealer. A week later, looked at the bill, and it said new door, etc etc. I looked under the door and there were my punch marks. I asked the person why was I charged for a new door etc when that was my door….did he want to look under it too…..after he turn as red as a tail light he said he would be right back. He did and his story was great…okay, maybe not…...although they still wanted to charge me “some for my door” So…..I took it home and inspected it…..After almost $2000.00 dollars worth of parts due to minor paint overspray….other things that were not exactly perfect, not that I expect perfect but…(only because they were trying to be evil) I sent a letter with pics and the cost of the new parts to replace to the Dealership Manager with a letter explaining all of the happy folks I was going to talk to. You know…local TV, newspapers, BBB, etc about the outstanding service his dealership provided. I gave him 3 days to contact me with a solution. In two days….(he must not have been busy) he contacted me and told me to bring it right in and they would fix it. I said, no….you already tried to fix me…..don’t trust you now. He said how about a $2000 dollar check. End of story.

Will they all be victories….no………but to me they didn’t do you fair……….

Do what you think……….let us know…..good luck!

on the cooked plug all i had to do was tie the heavy black to the heavy black, dark green w/ white stripe to dark green w/ white stripe, and the dark blue to dark blue. i still need to "water proof" the connections but about 400 miles later running the car hot, cold, hard, gentle, fast, slow and haven't had any more problems from the fuel system. it even seems to run better than it has as long as i have owned it. you guys have been so much more help than i could have ever hoped. i can't thank you enough.

Hello –

Fantastic – glad it is working for you……that is great……….

Did you ever talk to the dealer yet or what are you going to do.

We are very glad it is running great for you. That’s what we are here to try to do….help folks. But, don’t count yourself short either……you did the work….so great job on ya….

Hey, just note, make sure you look around there to see if something right there caused it. Are the wires rubbing something sharp, can they be pinched etc…..you know what I mean? Since it happened, just ask why and look around there really good.

Also, good thinking on the waterproof……

Glad we could help……

Make sure you tell you friends about us…….

given the corrosion on the back of the plug and the rust on the ground there near by i am in hopes it was simply a matter of moisture in the area. so i am hoping a wire brush to clean them and some waterproofer should do the job. haven't called the dealership yet still getting everything going. it is a trip now cause i work 2 weeks up in wyoming then when i come back for my 2 weeks off i am getting another job rolling to help cover bills.

No problem

Glad it is working....good luck on the job