A/C not cold

There is only one service port for the front an rear A/C units, they work off the same compressor. Sounds like you may have a blend door that inst working properly, causing the cold and warm air to be combined. Below is a guide and some diagrams of the rear actuator


Please run down this guide and report back.



https://www.2carpros.com/articles/replace-blend-door-motor

Hi my name is Cody. I own an 05 Dodge Durango. I have recently been having some AC issues. At first, it just wasn't blowing hard enough or cold enough. So I took it to the local shop near me and they just put in freeon. A few days later my AC in just the front didn't turn on when I started the car. So I tried turning it off and back on and it didn't work. But the AC in the back was still blowing cold and strong. Then while I was driving it randomly came back on and was cold and strong. It did that a few more times. It would not turn on especially during the hottest parts of the day. But it would blow fine at night. I took it back to the shop and they said that when they did the first tests on it that the back AC cut off but the front one worked fine. They then put a dye in one of the hoses and said that it would help them find a leak. I took it back after a week to find the leak as they requested and they said they had no idea what was wrong with it because it was blowing fine when I took it. It now continues to cut off and on randomly. But if I am driving over about 30-40 mph it will blow cold. Not strong but cold. But when I start slowing down it starts cutting off. Today it cut off again in the front and the back continued to blow strong. So I just decided to turn it off completely. It still blew cold air when I drove over 30 mph while the AC was off. I am very confused and am running out of options. Please help.

check items in pic for corrosion on relays and fuses these are under hood. clean it off if there is and use dielectric compound on prongs of relays. then have a local pro scan for codes as it may be a ground problem or bad tpim module.

This guide can help as well

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-air-conditioner-not-working-or-is-weak

5.7 Hemi, two wheel drive.
Last summer I was towing my camper back from the beach. The A/C pump went out @ 97 deg. I got a pump, expantion block (front and rear), and filtter dryer from auto zone.The expantion block looked slightly different but I used it anyway. It got cold but must be building up head presure too much because it gets warm just sitting still in a parking lot, (still blowing and pump still ingaged). I put the original expantion block back on. Now it gets cold but when I come to a stop or start to coast to slow down, I get a very rapid loud purring thud. It sounds like its coming from the expantion block or right there on the fire wall. It goes out imidiatly when I turn off the A/C. I thought I might have put in too much freeon in so I let some out, only to have to put more back in to get it cool.

how much did you put in???

what are the pressures????

did you vacuum it down????

Roy

I do not remember right off hand how much I put in, but it was the recomended amount and I did not go over the 100+temp markfor the presure, and yes I did vacume it down for about 45min. Used the vacume that Auto zone has on there loan a tool program.

and the pressures????

Roy

180 or so, I can't remember but I will check it again tonight.

I have an 04 durango, 44k miles V6, that has been trouble from day one. The newest problem is the a/c. Last year it started blowing hot air and making a grinding noise. Dealer replaced clutch and pulley. Worked fine until now. It will blow cold air as long as you are driving fast and its not too hot outside (mornings and evenings). Its making a rattling noise as well. We checked the freon levels and they are fine. The blowing pressure is fine. However, it hesitates to change from vents to defrost or floor. The a/c light will stay on for a couple seconds after you turn it off as well. It seems to be similar to the problem we had last year, but should the same parts be bad so soon?

Could be the compressor is going bad, the dealer replaced just the pulley and clutch assembly. Find out what pressures the comp is putting out at idle and PM me back

When I turn the ignition off and remove the key from my 2004 Dodge Durango the engine continues to run for several seconds later.Now the engine light is on and my air conditioner doesnt work.Steers fine.

Check engine light on
https://www.2carpros.com/articles/service-engine-soon-or-check-engine-light-on-or-flashing

Have the computer scanned for code/s-you have a problem within the engine management system that caused the CEL to turn on-This is your starting point of diagnosis,finding out what's going on.

Air Conditioning problem
2003 Dodge Durango V8 Two Wheel Drive Automatic

Any idea on why the A/C system works when the vehicle is in motion, and why it stops when at an idle. I stopped by my local auto parts store and puchased R134a with a gauge. On hookup the gauge started dancing around in the red at the end. Another thing that is noticeable is the clicking noise when the A/C is on. Once turned off the noise will stop. Could this be my compressor?

Is the clicking noise fast or does it take about 15 seconds in between clicks?

It is very fast, when driving down the road you really can't hear the clicks. But, as you come to a stop they are pretty loud. It almost seems like the noise is coming from the floor board of the passenger side. When I get to the stop I turn off the system then the clicking takes about two seconds to quit.

I had my son help me the other day; I was checking to see where the noise was coming from. I doesn't seem to be the compressor or the clutch.

Does it get worse when you make turns?

Not that I have noticed.

my air conditioning only blows hot air in the front of the truck but it blows cold air in the back of the truck. what could be the problem under the dash board.

Maybe restricted Orifice tube check liquid line from condenser to evaporator if it is iced up then tube clogged.

My Durango is my second vehicle. So when I do drive it, I need my babies to bee warm. I noticed the rear heat is not working. Its blowing cool air when you use either front or rear control. My husband dismantled the plastic panels in the back and saw that the knob would make the flaps flip. And obvious we are getting air. Im not sure how much air should be pushing through. Anyways, I would really appriciate some ideas to try. Specific part names and locations would be helpful for a do-it-yourselfer.

Thanks for you time, cheers.
Durango mamma

Common problem.

Check blower motor and blend door actuator.

2002 Dodge Durango XLT 4.7L

I have narrowed the problem down to the relay that turns the air compressor on. The PCM should ground one leg of the relay to close the contact which supplies voltage to the compressor. This problem is intermittent. My question is, is there a sensor telling the PCM not to activate the relay or is there a problem with the PCM?

If I ground the coil on the relay the AC runs fine.

Any codes showing?

Don't know. I don't have the equipment to check the on-board computer.

[quote:75c79a76b1="sosume"]Don't know. I don't have the equipment to check the on-board computer.[/quote:75c79a76b1]
.........................................................................

Take it to 'auto zone'.....they will scan for codes for you.........

...........good luck..........Ol'Ben

When I turn my ac on, it partially blows out of the defrost vent. Also, it seems very weak, both up front and in the back. When I put it on first setting it doesn't blow at all. Thanks.

I have a 2001 Durango, on the passenger side under the dach should be a resistor, it has a plug-in and two screws holding it. This resistor is by the blower motor. When you take it out it just looks like a long-flat piece of metal, this controls your blower speeds and fan. Mine had a bad prong, it works fine now. The part was $17.00 at dealership. The replacement part number was 4885635-AA, it's clearly a more robustly designed resistor than the original part.

https://www.2carpros.com/topics/climate-control/air-conditioner

Thanks. It is blowing like a champ now. Part was only $10.70 from dealership. You saved me at least a bill, thank you so much. It is still blowing through the defrost a little as well, and now the A/C is super loud, especially on Max...any thoughts??

In just purchased this vehicle. the A/C works up to the third level but still kinda weak. but as soon as i put it to the highest level the A/C cuts off entirely. any ideas?

Good afternoon,

It sounds like the blower resistor may be the issue as it controls all blower speeds.

Roy

REMOVAL
1. Disconnect and isolate the battery negative cable.
2. From the passenger foot well area, remove the two hex screws used to secure the blower motor resistor.
3. Unplug the front blower motor resistor from the wire harness connector.
4. Remove the front blower motor resistor from the HVAC unit.

INSTALLATION
1. Plug the front blower motor resistor into the wire harness connector.
2. Install the front blower motor resistor to the HVAC unit. (orientation required).
3. Install and tighten the two screws that secure the HVAC unit Tighten the mounting screws to 2 2 Nm(20 in. lbs).
4. Connect the battery negative cable.