Starter not working

Get a test light to see if you have power at the coil with the key on.This could be an ASD (auto-shutdown relay) It controls most everything engine-wise in that truck

this guide will help you

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/starter-not-working-repair


Please run down this guide and report back.

I had to get a rebuilt starter motor cost $132.00 all fixed!

My 1995 dodge dakota won't srart. I have replaced dist. cap, rotary button, coil, spark plugs, It's getting fire and gas. My truck was sitting for a year. I had just had the head gasket rebuilt. I stopped at a gas station one day to put gas in it and it wouldn't crank.

hasn't started since?

After I had the head rebuilt, it ran for three months. Then one day I was putting gas in it, it died. This has been several months ago. Now I am trying to get it running with no luck.

what motor? are injector(s) firing?

2.5 4 cylinder. It doesn't have fuel injection. It has a throttle body.

throttle body is actually 1 injector on most 4 cylinders. you can watch it to see if it's spraying and if not test the wires for voltage and ground. most injectors are hot with key on and the ground is the trigger signal and it is a pulsing signal when cranking running. you can use a small 12v bulb as test light to check.

Electrical problem
1994 Dodge Dakota V8 Two Wheel Drive Manual

I installed a new fuel pump and the truck sat for about 3 weeks until I could buy the pump. I got the pump installed and went to start the truck but the starter is not engaging. It is not getting any power to the starter solenoid. the relay, wires for the park nuetral switch were it was a automatic have all tested good. I can get the engine to turn over when I run a jumper wire from the battery to the starter solenoid.

Ignition switch
neutral safety switch
relay and fuses

check the wiring and relay

use a test light and check if power getting to the neutral safety switch and out ‘
check start relay in the relay box

I have had this happen one other time i stopped to get gas and it would not crank back up for about an hour. but this time it won't crank back up at all. it turns over but thats it where should i start, checked gas already.

Hello, have a helper crank it, while you check for spark at the plugs. If you have spark everywhere, check fuel pressure. Can you check for trouble codes? You should be able to get some codes by cycling the ignition switch. You turn the key just till the dash lites come on, no further. Cycle the key on--off, on--off, on, then the check engine lite starts flashing, you count the flashes to get the codes.

First off changed brakes decided 2 change 02 sensor didn't take off battery when i did i replaced it but don't know if anything fried like the pcm. When all the problems started car wouldn't start but would crank. Changed fuel pump and distributor cap and wires all spark plugs including solenoid connected with those.then the ignition switch and lock cylinder bust so i replaced those had battery posts and wires cleaned but ever since ignition switch and cylinder change the key turns forward with dead silence. Car has power radio etc. Ran the obd codes with ignition and got codes 37 and 45. Other than 12 and 55 im more focused on the others but having trouble finding the locations of these if there is a site u can maybe recommend or advice i would highly appreciate it.

Hello,

It sounds like the start motor had gone out. Here is a guide that will show you how to test it (bottom).

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-replace-a-starter-motor

Please run this test and get back to us so we can continue helping you.

Cheers, Ken

Engine Performance problem
1992 Dodge Dakota 6 cyl Two Wheel Drive Automatic 300k+ miles

here's one for the pros. I've tried about everything but a bullet. a few days ago truck died(has done this many times),but would not restart. heard the click-starter did not engage,ok, had this prob before. removed starter to find bendix cover(piece of casing that keeps bendix from over engaging) broke off and fell down wedging itself in flywheel.finally fished hunk of metal out and replaced starter, turned key, starter engaged,AWESOME! dropped truck, put tools up, turned key, all it did was crank,crank,crank,not over. Pulled #1 plug wire- no spark. pulled coil wire- no spark. bought new coil- still nothing. bought new ECM- still nothing. finally get test light and check pigtail at coil- no power. Start checking wires and find(with key on)pigtail going to crankshaft position sensor not making ful contact(when i touched these wires heard things engage- actually engine turned?) confused me but oh well- found my prob,turned key- truck tried turning but not quite. did end up getting my spark though. checked fuel at rail check valve, have fuel enough to flood cylinders. pulled plugs,cleaned them,pulled fuel relay,cranked motor to purge intake,replaced plugs with relay still out and turned motor to burn off any excess fuel, replaced relay. tried to start and still same thing engine wants to turn soooo baaad but will NOT fire. tried starting fluid- no change. In short, I've checked everything,battery, plugs,wires,cap,rotor,coil,computer,tested injecters,sensors,wires,pulled exhaust manifold thinking maybe clogged converter,still not turning over. I'm still systematically going through sensors but running out of options. If someone could help i would really appreciate it. I've spent hours online, reading every forum i could and still haven't found my answer. Again, I have fuel, spark, compression, and exhuast, what else is there?

You're getting spark -concentrate on the fuel system-check the fuel pressure with a gauge to make sure the fuel pump is producing the correct pressure. If okay check ignition timing

Hmmm, after putting the down, you have tried eveything. Just for giggles, didi you check to see if you have spark anymore. If so, than ignore the rest of this. If no spark than here is my issue that I had. I replaced all, cam & Crank shaft, Ignition switch, and computer. It wants to start but never cranks. No spark. I placed a jumper wire from #30 on the fuel relay switch to the main power of the battery and placed the fuel relay switch back in and bam, she started up. Of course I use the ether to start it than the fuel kept it going ans she runs great. In my case a corroded wire must have been the issues and I will change it, but for now the truck runs great. Good luck

Engine Mechanical problem
1992 Dodge Dakota 6 cyl Four Wheel Drive Automatic

My truck wont start for some reason. If I put a recharged battery in it runs. When I shut it off at night and try the next day. Nothing works. Engine wont turn over, no sound when key inserted into ignition. No nothing.

Hi there,

you will have to do a current draw test on the electrical system, something is drawing current over night and causing the battery to go flat.

If you need i will post instructions to do this test, you will need an Amp meter in the scale of 1-50 Amps thereabouts.
mark (mhpautos)

new starter,battery,ignition switch, checked all wires and all grounds,fuses,relays,all seem good wont turn over no click nothing any ideas???

Was neutral safety switch checked out?

this guide will help us

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/starter-not-working-repair

Please run down this guide and report back.

yep just replaced it still nothing but at least my backup lights work now lol still cant figure it out maybe the pcm??

At starter relay is there 12v on black wire?

yes at the relay is a yellow(switch) brown(power) and a brown/yellow(ground/neutral safety) and a black that ends in the harness if i take out the relay and swap it out with any of the other 3 relays(all the same) i get nothing , but if i take out the relay and run a jumper from the brown to the yellow it starts now aint that a ass scratcher?? any ideas i`m going bonkers here! thanx

O.K. then when key in start position does yellow wire have power?

yes

What about Black wire does it have 12+ volts

brown wire does black wire goes nowhere

There MUST be voltage on black that is what powers solenoid. it should go to fuse"B" in PDC

i understand but on this vehicle its brown i traced it from the pdc to the solenoid and yes it has 12+ volts

Don't know who has been working on truck brown wire should go to starter solenoid, black wire hot, yellow hot with key, Brown'yellow ground. Yellow powers uo coil closes relay black wire feeds brown to close solenoid. When you say Black wire goes no where what just hanging?

yes looks like it was cut with a coupla others and taped up back in the harness going to nothing. had the truck for 7 yrs never done anything to it but routine maintenance til now. never had any issues whatsoever, my son was listening to the radio in it and ever since it hasnt started, unless i run a jumper wire from the yellow to the brown in the PDC and it will start.....

Wire up black wire to power then it should start

wired it up and it fired right up! thanx docfixit!!!!! still cant figure out how it started all this time unless there was a power feed on there and it busted or fell off but couldnt find any signs of where it was or should have been oh well the mysteries!!!! THANKS AGAIN DOCFIXIT!!!!

Welcome wright it as a machine vs man and man won

Doc,

I really like to see one go back and forth like that.

Especially when one draws the picture, and the other one colors it....staying within the lines!........an it's a keeper!.....now hanging on the "fridge"!

jbravo69, it's sorta rare to see the other party "Grasp" the instructions, and report back, with the needed info, without some Glitch!

I'd like to obtain a "everybody understands everybody, the 1st time" fast, smooth repair........with the ones I answer, more often!

Doc, I'll put in a good word about you, to the Big Guys, at our next 2carpicnic

he he!

The Medic

Thanks
Needed a good laugh to end my day
Ernie

It sounds like you just said that when you bypass the neutral/safety switch your vehicle starts. Perhaps you answered the question.

What would cause a starter to bench test fine and then when you put it in the truck it doesn't work at all. I can get it to work by jumping the two terminals on the starter.

I'd check the voltage circuits at the starter relay. Voltage for the load/switch side of relay, is hot all the time. Voltage to the coil side of relay, goes hot with the key in the crank position.