Truck won't start because their is no spark to coil?

Check fuses Locate and check or replace ASD relay Check if have power to coil when key on and engine cranking If so check and suspect coil. Here is a guide to help check the ASD and the location of the relay.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-an-electrical-relay-and-wiring-control-circuit

Check out the diagrams (Below). Please let us know what happens.

crankcase sensor was changed, still no spark to coil through computer (original) replaced computer with one from salvage yard still no spark to coil tried computer different year and got spark won't start! Then got a new ASD started right up! I love this site.

Glad you could get it fixed, that kind of problem can be tough. Please use 2CarPros anytime we are here to help.

I new plugs new cap new coil still no spark

If your 1992 Dodge Dakota is not getting any spark to the coil or the crank angle sensor, there are several potential causes for this issue. Here are some steps you can take to diagnose and possibly resolve the problem:

Check the Ignition Fuse and Relays: Locate the ignition fuse and relays in the fuse box and check if any of them are blown or faulty. Replace any damaged fuses or relays.

Inspect the Wiring: Inspect the wiring going to the ignition coil, crank angle sensor, and other related components for any damage, fraying, or loose connections. Corroded or damaged wires can disrupt the electrical signal and prevent spark generation.

Test the Ignition Coil: Use a multimeter to test the ignition coil's primary and secondary circuits for continuity. A faulty ignition coil may not be able to generate spark.

Check the Crank Angle Sensor: Verify that the new crank angle sensor is compatible with your Dakota and installed correctly. Sometimes, aftermarket sensors may not function correctly or need specific adjustments.

Test the Crank Angle Sensor Signal: Use a multimeter or an oscilloscope to test the crank angle sensor's output signal while cranking the engine. It should produce a fluctuating voltage signal.

Inspect the Distributor Cap and Rotor: If your Dakota has a distributor-based ignition system, check the distributor cap and rotor for cracks, carbon tracks, or excessive wear. Replace them if necessary.

Verify the Engine Grounds: Ensure that all engine grounds are clean and secure. Poor grounding can cause electrical issues, including no spark.

Check for a Faulty ECM/PCM: The Engine Control Module (ECM) or Powertrain Control Module (PCM) could be faulty, preventing spark delivery. This would require diagnostic testing with specialized equipment.

Security System Malfunction: If your Dakota has a factory-installed security system, it may be inhibiting spark delivery. Check if the security light is on or if there are any security-related fault codes.

Hello my dakota died going down the road and wouldnt restart so i got to looking around and decided to change the crank sensor ok truck runs for 10-20 min dies no ground pulse from pcm to coil. ok play around for a day nothing got another crank sensor truck ran for 10-20 min died again no ground pulse. ok so i buy a new cam sensor no change no start. ok i confirmed circuits good 8.75v on orange wire connects to #7 of pcm ok 5.0v on gray/black wire connects to #24 of pcm. ground checks out good. ok so i monitor for for signal reaching pcm it does. all same for cam sensor but i still cannot get a ground pulse from the pcm to the coil. it just stays constantly grounded. forgot to add have replaced computer also

You know, I read this post today at 8:30 AM. It has been on my mind all day. Something just popped into my mind about the problem, now that it is 11:00PM. On the passanger side inner fender is a huge wiring harness to the PCM. If I remember correctly, there is a wiring splice about 1 to 2 feet into the harness. (it has been a while so bear with me). If I remember, the wire is either white with a red tracer or red with a white tracer and where the splice is located, the solder and joint corroded causing a bad connection and the loss of spark.

check into that. It has been about 10 years since I delt with the last one, so check all splices in that area or a corrosion issue.

Let me know what you find. Also, the wire colors I listed (I think) are correct. Again, check all splices. I know it wasn't more than 2 feet into the harness, so you will need to cut the friction tape to access it.

Joe

ok will check it out i checked all splices under the Power distribution center i will pull the harness apart on the passenger side tomorrow after work. i do belive you may be on too something because thinking about it almost every time i have really dug into that area to change out crank sensors the truck has started and ran for few minutes. do you know what this wire controls? because i can read the computer so it shouldnt be power. unless its a secondary or something because i cant never seem to clear code 12. BTW code 12 and 55 is all the computer gives me even after a failure of spark in mid running.

I wish I could remember. Like I said, it has been awhile. It drove me crazy yesterday thinking about it because I remembered dealing with similar problems in the past. The wire had delt directly with the ignition system receiving power, but the exact thing, I can't remember.

Please let me know what you find. This is driving me nuts too. I wish I was there to dig into it.

Ok took cover off of entire harness from pcm to pdc discovered the garage we paid to install a new wiring harness used one from a diffrent year and had to splice all the sensor connections with the ones from the old harness the factory splices you mentioned were found i found about 6 total within 3 feet from the pcm. all factory splices are perfect. However the masses of tape the garage used to retape after there splices was full of chalky yelowish green powder i think it is wire corrosion in fact i almost know it is but it was all through the tape does this happen? i havent had a chance to check these makeshift splices the garage made. i ran out of daylight so guess thats for tommorow.Also the part of harness that is split by a big plug and runs down to crank sensor and back along the transsmision to the vss and heated o2 sensors all the wires that rest on the back of the engine head are stuck together not melted there just all fused together do you know if they used an adhesive on the wires? im surprised that i the crank and cam sensors circuit are still good despite the mess this harness is in. its killing me to know why the computer holds a constant ground on the coil. i know the coil circuit is good not shorted to ground.

They don't use an adhesive. The wires must be partially melted together. As far as the green residue you mentioned, that is the corrosion that I mentioned. It sounds like you have a nightmare on your hands. The ground issue could be one of the wires that are partially melted together.

Take your time and try to repair what was incorrectly done. I believe you found where the problem is located, now which wire is the problem is the next thing.

Let me know what you find.
Joe

1993 Dodge Dakota no spark and no fuel pressure change crankshaft sensor and pick up in distributor still nothing no power to coil either don't no if should have power to coil when key is on

Welcome to the forum, are there any codes? The asd relay supplies primary voltage to the coil-- injectors-- 02 heater circuits. It's best to check with engine cranking. The asd relay and fuel pump relay share the same ground circuit,so, no ground, neither relay will work. I'd have to check voltage and ground circuits at relays. If the computer isn't grounding those relays, I'd have to check the wiring circuits for the cam and crank sensors. those are usually, ref voltage-- ground and signal.

My truck was running ok, then one day it would not start after driving it for a while. After about 15 minutes it started. A couple of days later, it won't start still. Ran a wire from the positve cable to the coil and it started, but removed wire and it died. Replace plugs, rotor, wires, cap, ignigtion starter switch (my friend said it may be bad), and the coil. Still no spark from the coil when turning over. Any help would be huge.

Ran a wire from the positve cable to the coil and it started, but removed wire and it died.

The ASD relay powers the coil swap/replace it and see what happens

I relaced the ASD Relay, which was actually bad, and it still will does not get power to the coil or the fuel pump. A jumper wire to the coil gets the pump going. What else could it be. As I said before, I replaced the ignition starter switch, ASD Relay and regular tune up items. What next???

Check for power at the ASD relay socket red wire -you should have it, if not test the white fusible link

Yea, I checked it out before I installed the relay and it had power. I was so bummed when it didn't start because it made so much sense that it would be the problem, especially since the old one had arc marks all over it and had a 2/97 date on it so it had been replaced before. Any other ideas? Could the PCM be bad?

Where Does The Coil Get It's Current From ? I Can Not Get A Spark To The Distributor If The Coil Does Not Have Current From Where Ever It Comes From To Enable It To Be Able To Sent A Spark To The Distributor. So You See I Need To Know Where The Coil Gets It's Current From So I Can Check And See Why It Is Not Sending Any Current To The Coil So That It Can Send A Spark To The Distributor.

Could be the PCM not grounding the ASD relay to transfer power to the coil/fuel pump

The coil is a transformer. It needs a 12v power supply and a pulsing reference signal to work. Use a noid light to test for correct signals arriving while cranking.

How would I test that? I will be more then happy to send more donation money if this works. It is so frustrating. Thanks!

Seems That You Still Do Not Understand What I Am Asking. I Already Know That Their Is No Current Reaching The Coil. What I Really Need To Know Is What Supplies The Current To The Coil So That I Can Go To The Place That Supplies The Current To The Coil To Check Out Why It Is Not Sending Any Current To The Coil.

At the ASD relay socket with dark blue wire turn ignition On do you have power on it? If so check the continuity between the dark blue/yellow at the ASD relay socket wire all the way to the computer pin#58 K19 dark blue and yellow do you have continuity if so the computer controlled of the ASD relay is defective

It's powered off the voltage regulator on a dark blue wire. This also powers just about everything else in the engine compartment so I really doubt that supply is missing.

Since the coil gets it's power from the voltage regulator, would this mean that the voltage regulator controls the power flow from the alternator (right) if this is true, then it would seem to me that the truck would have to be running before it could send current to the coil. ( is this right ). If this is right, then this would explain why the coil has no current on it, since the truck is not running. And if this all is right then there would be no way for any fire to reach the distributor. Is all this right or not ? Just checking...would the spark computer have anything to do with anything ?

Looking at the diagram again, that may be power going to the regulator, not from. Test both sides of fuse #13 with the key on using a test light.

Thanks for that. I get paid 4/1/2014 and i will purchase a test light that day and test both sides of fuse # 13.