1992 Dodge Dakota ECU compatability

Ok first some info. When you did the swap did you keep your intake and injection and such? If so and all you changed was the engine itself then nothing should have changed as far as the computer is concerned. Get back to me.

Original computer is 56027141 Motor swap was from California. Dont know number. Didnt change anything on intake. throttle body egr everything look same and matched up with harness. Did put in remanufactured injectors. Also used distributer and halls, and crank sensor form other motor cause they were new. Have also bought newupstreem 02 sensor. thats the only one it has. Am currently trying to locate original computer for this motor but dont know if I can use it, if it requires a downstreem o2 sensor that I dont have. What do I have to change to use this engine with my computer # 7141? Eversince I put this motor in I have had a misfire that started out casual goin down the hiway, you would feel the truck jerk now and then. It would idle fine and run out fine with no misses. Has since gotten so bad you cant drive it. Sometimes it will idle fine, sometimes it wants to die till warmed up. But when you drive it when you give a certain amount of gas
it backfires out the exhaust like its 180 degrees off, pops and jerks violently, push the gas alittle further it instantly I mean instantly clears up. Cant stay a constant speed or it backfires but if you acellerated itcomes right out of till you level off then comes right back. Change tps Pretty much been through everything but computer.
Never has had check engine light on Code skips 88 start test code goes straight to 12 code the end code 55 May have messed up computer jumping to get started at first had to crank it alot. Ordered new 7141 computer do I need to change anything else on this motor to make it work. Hope the problem doesnt lie in timing or valves but is confusing how well it runs when it idles for the most part and runs flawless when your on it, just seems to really get its signals mixed up between 2 and 3 grand mabey certain throttle positions or any time you try to level off. This is a low mile motor but sat around awhile. What do I need to change to make this motor compatable with my computer?

Ok as far as what you have told me the computer know's no difference so no need to change it up with anything else but a stock type replacement. However with what you are telling me I would check the TPS to see if it is not the problem. Here is how to test it ok. You need to get a digital multi meter. Now back probe the orange and dk blue wire at the sensor with like a paper clip or something do not disconnect the sensor. Now hook up your multi meter possitive to the paper clip and neg to ground and set it for 20 volt scale. Now turn the key on engine off and the voltage should be around .8 to 1 volt with the throttle closed. Now slowly lift the throttle it should slowly and gradually increase to around 4.5 to 5 volt at wide open throttle. Now if any of these readings are wrong or the voltage drops or glitches as you lift the throttle then it needs to be replaced. Let me know what you find.

tps voltage check was useful and informative, it was not in the haynes that I have. Do you recommend a better service manual? Unfortunately I dont believe thats my problem. Even though my readings were alittle low, .7 to upwards toward but not quite 4. it had no glitches or dead spots. As a matter of fact that was first what I suspected and interchanged it with a used one that was "supposed to be good", wished I'd of known that voltage check then, but anyhow nothing changed about my problems. Its been costly to diagnose but I,m down to the computer that I have ordered to come in wed. I ordered the 7141 for it. The computer thats in it isnt very old, but mabey I damaged it charging it or jumpstarting or unhooking and rehooking up the battery, alot of that was going on at first startup.

Ok first of never jumpstart a dodge as the alternator regulator is in the computer and can kill them. Now when you put this new one in find a way to ground yourself to the vehicle as if you get any static electricity you can damage it too. Let me know what happens with the computer and if nothing changes we will test some other stuff ok.

Good and bad news. Good news is computer didnt cost me anything. The one I had boughten previously was a lifetime warranty and they cant be checked. Im sure you can guess the bad news. I really dont know where to go from here. The whole ignition system was new from the old motor, but that dont mean something couldnt of happened I guess. It has never had a check engine light on, but I checked catyletic converter to make sure it wasnt plugged and put a new bosch o2 sensor on. I just dont know how it could be emmisions, when its not giving any codes or turning the light on at this point. Fuel filter is new and fuel pressure checked out fine.
It has rebuilt and tested injectors. Plugs wires and cap roter all new and checked.It so crazy to me how smooth it can run when its not violently jerking and backfiring which can be stopped either by letting off or getting on the gas. Any help testing everything out will be greatly appreciated.

Ok lets get some more info first ok. Does it do this all the time or only when it cold or hot or what? Does backfire out the exhaust or the intake? Have you checked the coil and the ignition module? Get back to me with as much info as you can so we get this fixed.

Found my problem today. Started over rechecked my distributer and found I didnt have the rotor lined up perfectly with the line on the switchplate. It was just alittle off therefore starting off as a random miss and as the plugs cap wires got worn it got worse. Thanks for your assistance. You sound much smarter than me and I will probably need your help again sometime!

Great glad to hear it still lives. Sometimes it is best to start with the basics as you have just found out and proved again. I'm sorry I thought that you did a tune up and check all that my bad.
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