Hard to Start

Have a pressure test done on it, also pull the vacuum line off the regulator, if there is any fuel in it, change it. If you can find the return line try clamping it off and see if this increases the pressure enough to star the van, if yes, the pump is weak...How about the fuel filter, changed yet? And how about that last tune up? Bad plugs are a prime cause of hard starting...sorry your model has it built on to the fuel pump, you need the dogge scan tool and a pressure tester to test this one...

This guide should help

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/engine-cranks-excessively-before-starting

Please run down this guide and report back.

Are you referring to the vacuum line on the fuel pressure regulator located on the fuel pump assembly? Thats is the only regulator I know of. If there is another one, where is it. Thanks for your advice, at least I have a starting point!!

Yes try pulling that off to check for gas, ther should not be any...

Sorry not quite sure what you mean follow up post I am new to this. I checked the fuel line before attempting to start the car and found no fuel pressure. After starting the car and running for a couple of minutes turned it off and again no fuel pressure in the line. The line should hold pressure right?

Yes, either the regulator or the pump is bad, if the regulator can be bought seperatly go with that first...

10 days ago it quit running had to have it two home. It use to start as soon as soon as u turn key now it takes 3 or 4 times. Have code 10 & p0601 any help will be welcome.

Code p0010 is the "A" side camshaft which is the intake or the front camshaft. The code is for the position sensor actuator which could give you some timing issues which would keep it from running. The other code p0601 is for the Internal Control Module which is for the engine itself. I am attaching a general overview of the complaint and the needed repairs involved. Let me know if you need anything else.

My 2002 Dodge Caravan is hard to start when engine is cold but it is hot outside 96 or hotter acts like it is not getting fuel. Engin has to turn over several times before it fires. It has 155,000 miles on it.

Sounds like fuel pressure might be dropping. To prove it, turn the ignition switch to "run", wait a few seconds, turn it off, wait a few seconds, turn it to run again and wait a little, then try to start it. Each time you turn it to run the fuel pump will run for one second to build up pressure. If that helps, the most likely cause is a leaking injector that lets the pressure bleed off. Very often you can overcome that by simply pausing with the switch in the run position for one or two seconds before you turn it all the way to the "crank" position.

Thanks Doc will give it a try, but if it is a leaky injector it would be hard to start all the time if it sat for a while. This only happens at work after sitting out in the sun for 8 hrs.

The drop in pressure can produce misleading symptoms. Mine will start instantly after sitting overnight or less than 15 minutes after stopping the engine. It has a long crank time, (up to five seconds), after the engine has been off more than around 15 - 20 minutes.

Besides waiting for fuel pressure to build up, it may be necessary to clear a flooded condition from leaking fuel before the engine will start. That would be aggravated in higher temperatures. When that fuel is cooler, it will condense and puddle in the intake manifold and will be burned off after the engine starts. In warmer temperatures, it is more likely to vaporize and cause that flooded condition and hard starting.

Hey Doc the van starts great now with the turn and wait and turn and wait then start procedure. Thanks for the great tip.

Glad I could help, but that isn't a fix, just a clue if finding the real cause.

have to turn key on then off then on again to start eng.

When the problem occurs, are you saying it won't even crank? Or it cranks good but won't start? If it is the latter, I'd use a gage and check fuel pressure, cycling the key can help the fuel system prime.

cranks and starts runs good and sometimes cranks and starts the frist time other times no

Intermittent issues, you have to test when the problem is ongoing.

I have a 2001 dodge caravan 3.3 g-flex. recently I've been having a hard time starting the van. I will have to push down on the pedal for a few seconds until it starts then runs fine. I smell gas coming out the tailpipe, and am going through the gas mileage. My obd 2 code says a speed control circuit. My uncle said it probably is the Idle control valve. I would like your opinion if you don't mind!

What code is it giving you? Speed control circuit is the idle air control circuit, A bad IAC will give hard starting problem, but so will an out of range TPS(throttle possition sensor).

Its giving me a P1595 code. I did put a brand new TPS in just two days ago, I forgot to mention that, Sorry! no change.

P1595 is the cruise control (speed control) circuit. Here's the testing info. DTC P1595: SPEED CONTROL SOLENOID CIRCUITS DTC P1683: SPEED CONTROL POWER RELAY OR 12V DRIVER CIRCUIT NOTE: Both DTCs are diagnosed using the same test. After repairs, perform TEST VER-4A under VERIFICATION TESTS. DTC P1595 will set if vacuum and vent solenoids do not respond when actuated by PCM. DTC P1683 will set if Speed Control (S/C) power supply circuit is open or shorted to ground. Possible Causes Ground circuit open. "¢ Brake switch output circuit open. "¢ S/C power supply circuit open or shorted. "¢ S/C servo defective. "¢ S/C vacuum solenoid control circuit open or shorted. "¢ S/C vent solenoid control circuit open or shorted. "¢ Brake switch defective or out of adjustment. "¢ Defective PCM. "¢ Testing Turn ignition on. Turn Speed Control (S/C) on. Using scan tool, actuate S/C vent solenoid. Using scan tool, actuate S/C vacuum solenoid. If vacuum solenoid in S/C servo does not click, go to next step. If vent solenoid in S/C servo does not click, go to step 6 . If both solenoids do not click, go to step 10 . If both solenoids click, go to step 15 . 1. Turn ignition off. Disconnect S/C servo connector. Inspect connector and clean or repair as necessary. Turn ignition on. Turn S/C switch on. With test light connected to battery voltage, probe S/C servo connector terminal No. 1 (Violet/Yellow wire). See Fig. 4 . Using scan tool, actuate S/C vacuum solenoid. If test light does not blink off and on, go to next step. If test light blinks on and off, replace S/C servo. See SPEED CONTROL SERVO under REMOVAL & INSTALLATION. 2. Disconnect PCM connectors. Inspect connectors and clean or repair as necessary. Using DVOM, measure resistance of Violet/Yellow wire between S/C servo connector terminal No. 1 and PCM connector C2 terminal No. 56. See Fig. 3 . If resistance is less than 5 ohms, go to next step. If resistance is 5 ohms or more, repair open on Violet/Yellow wire. 3. Using DVOM, measure resistance between ground and S/C servo connector terminal No. 1 (Violet/Yellow wire). If resistance is 5 ohms or more, go to next step. If resistance is less than 5 ohms, repair short to ground on Violet/Yellow wire. 4. Replace PCM. 5. Turn ignition off. Disconnect S/C servo connector. Inspect connector and clean or repair as necessary. Turn ignition on. Turn S/C switch on. With test light connected to battery voltage, probe S/C servo connector terminal No. 2 (Violet/Orange wire). See Fig. 4 . Using scan tool, actuate S/C vent solenoid. If test light does not blink off and on, go to next step. If test light 6.blinks on and off, replace S/C servo. See SPEED CONTROL SERVO under REMOVAL & INSTALLATION. Disconnect PCM connectors. Inspect connectors and clean or repair as necessary. Using DVOM, measure resistance of Violet/Orange wire between S/C servo connector terminal No. 2 and PCM connector C2 terminal No. 80. If resistance is less than 5 ohms, go to next step. If resistance is 5 ohms or more, repair open on Violet/Orange wire. 7. Using DVOM, measure resistance between ground and S/C servo connector terminal No. 2 (Violet/Orange wire). If resistance is 5 ohms or more, go to next step. If resistance is less than 5 ohms, repair short to ground on Violet/Orange wire. 8. Replace PCM. 9. Turn ignition off. Disconnect S/C servo connector. Inspect connector and clean or repair as necessary. Turn ignition on. Turn S/C switch on. Connect test light between S/C servo connector terminal No. 3 (Violet/White wire) and ground. See Fig. 4 . If test light does not illuminate, go to next step. If test light illuminates, replace S/C servo. See SPEED CONTROL SERVO under REMOVAL & INSTALLATION. 10. Turn ignition off. Disconnect brake switch connector. Using DVOM, measure resistance of Violet/White wire between brake switch harness connector terminal No. 3 and S/C servo connector terminal No. 3. See Fig. 2 and Fig. 4 . If resistance is less than 5 ohms, go to next step. If resistance is 5 ohms or more, repair open on Violet/White wire. 11. Turn ignition on. Turn S/C switch on. With test light connected to ground, probe brake switch harness connector terminal No. 4 (Violet/Yellow wire). If test light does not illuminate, go to next step. If test light illuminates, replace brake switch. See BRAKE SWITCH under REMOVAL & INSTALLATION. 12. Turn ignition off. Disconnect PCM connectors. Inspect connectors and clean or repair as necessary. Using DVOM, measure resistance of Violet/Yellow wire between brake switch harness connector terminal No. 4 and PCM connector C1 terminal No. 5. See Fig. 2 and Fig. 3 . If resistance is less than 5 ohms, go to next step. If resistance is 5 ohms or more, repair open on Violet/Yellow wire. 13. Replace PCM. 14. Turn ignition off. Disconnect S/C servo connector. Inspect connector and clean or repair as necessary. With test light connected to battery voltage, probe S/C servo connector terminal No. 4 (Black/Light Green wire). If test light illuminates, go to next step. If test light does not illuminate, repair open on Black/Light Green wire and/or Black wire between S/C servo and ground. 15. Problem is intermittent. Check the following and repair as necessary: 16. Wiggle wiring while monitoring scan tool display. "¢ Operate vehicle under same conditions as when DTC was set (freeze frame data). "¢ Check Technical Service Bulletins (TSBs). "¢ Check wiring and connectors for damage or corrosion. "¢

so you don't think my problem is with teh IAC valve?

DOES THE CRUISE CONTROL WORK? IAC's can be enough out of range to work poorly, but not set a code. Test IAC like this. P0505 is IAC code:
Testing



http://www.ondemand5.com/mric/common/asp/Article.aspx?MOD=REPART&YEAR=2...
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1.Start engine and allow it to idle. If engine will not idle, maintain engine speed at 800-1500 RPM. Using scan tool, read IAC current. If IAC current is less than 146 milliamps, go to next step. If IAC current is 146 milliamps or more, go to step 8 . 2.Turn engine off. Disconnect IAC motor connector. IAC motor is located on side of throttle body and has a 2-pin connector. Remove IAC motor. Inspect IAC motor air passages for restrictions and damage. Repair or replace IAC motor as necessary. If IAC motor air passages are okay, measure resistance between IAC motor terminals. If resistance is 8.7-10.7 ohms, go to next step. If resistance is not 8.7-10.7 ohms, replace IAC motor. 3.Ensure ignition is off. Disconnect PCM connectors. PCM is located on left side of engine compartment, near front of battery. Measure resistance of Violet/Dark Green wire between IAC motor harness connector and terminal No. 49 at PCM C2 harness connector. If resistance is less than 5 ohms, go to next step. If resistance is 5 ohms or more, repair open in Violet/Dark Green wire. 4.Measure resistance between ground and Violet/Dark Green wire at IAC motor harness connector. If resistance is 5 ohms or more, go to next step. If resistance is less than 5 ohms, repair short to ground in Violet/Dark Green wire between IAC motor and PCM. 5.Measure resistance of Violet/Light Green wire between IAC motor harness connector and terminal No. 57 at PCM C2 harness connector. If resistance is less than 5 ohms, go to next step. If resistance is 5 ohms or more, repair open in Violet/Light Green wire. 6.Measure resistance between ground and Violet/Light Green wire at IAC motor harness connector. If resistance is 5 ohms or more, go to next step. If resistance is less than 5 ohms, repair short to ground in Violet/Light Green wire between IAC motor and PCM. 7.At this time, PCM is assumed to be defective. Replace PCM. Program the new PCM. See PROGRAMMING . 8.At this time, conditions for DTC to set do not exist or fault is an intermittent problem. Start engine and allow it to idle. Ensure engine is at normal operating temperature. Using scan tool, monitor parameters related to DTC while wiggling connectors and wiring harness. If value changes while wiggling connectors and wiring harness, repair connectors and wiring harness where wiggling caused value to change. If value does not change, review Freeze Frame data using scan tool. Attempt to duplicate condition that caused DTC to set. Check for any related technical service bulletins that may apply. Visually inspect related connectors and wiring harness. Repair connectors and wiring harness as necessary. See WIRING DIAGRAMS article. If no problems are indicated, test is complete.

It wasn't the IAC vavle, so i decided to change the plugs and wires. Although they needed it, it still won't start without pushing the pedal down for three or four seconds.Any sense of direction would be much appreciated.

Thank You
Joe

Hi, I have a 2001 Dodge Caravan.It has 165,000 km. The van takes 3 to 4 cranking attempts to start. The engine light did come on and had it checked. It had a fault code for ignition coil B which was replaced. It worked great for a week but it's starting to act up again. It usually acts up after sitting for a hour or more. I suspect a fuel problem but codes don't show this. I pull a camper with it and it has no problems with performance. :?

This is almost the same problem I have with mine.
The first start of the day is rough. I have been told that I could have a leak in my fuel injectors. They say the O-Ring in them might be bad. Not all at once but one of them could be bad. On mine the fuel injectors are on the front of the engine and are easy to get to. I would just replace all the orings and if you have a little extra money(you know the money saved from doing it yourself) just replace the fuel injectors completely.Or just get some carb cleaner and spray the heck out of each fuel injector. Also the one other thing to check is...theres a fuel injector that goes into the intake manifold that shoots extra gas into the engine after it has not been started in a while(after the engine cools down). It is possible that this injector is bad or clogged. Hope this helps.

check for a stuck EGR, then test fuel pump pressure, If it won't restart, determine what's missing, the engine needs three things to run, Spark at all plugs, gas to all cylinders, and compression in all cylinders, tho an engine may run lacking one in one cylinder, it won't run very well!
https://www.2carpros.com/car_repair_video/test_fuel_injection_pressure.htm
Go here and checkout our video.
https://www.2carpros.com/car_repair_video/test_engine_ignition_system.htm
and this one!
Let us know what is missing...

I got a 2000 dodge grand caravan 3.8 that has been running like a champ i maintain it regularly and take care of it. But a few days ago i go to start it and it struggles to start i just replaced the starter cleaned the battery/ terminals checked fuses/relays everything is fine and shell start after i keep turning it over and damn near flood the engine it wants to start and once its started it runs fine. My guess is that the fuel filter may be clogged or its not getting enough fuel delivery. But i could be wrong any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Hi there,

Thank you for the donation,

I would first do the basics, check for any unresolved fault codes, (not all faults will set a MIL) check starting fuel pressure, & fuel flow, check for any vacuum leaks, do a general tune up if one has not been done in a while, do this and let me know what you find.

mark (mhpautos)

Engine rotates but hard to start. When it starts rpm races or sometimes engine stumbles, rough idle then it's fine

scan for codes and check fuel pressure with a gauge autoparts rent it. then clean throttle bplateon both sides an diac hole with choke cleaner.