sputtering on acceleration

i can tell right of the bat...i am seeing 2 possibility
- dodge do have tons of recall or screw up that bury under pile of red tape..
- most likely a reprogram ...
- 2nd....ur problem is engine performance and emission repair L1 tech territority...
- tobe absolute ....if this car is in my shop...i will definitely look at the scanner live data chking air fuel ratio,misfire,mass air flow sensor ...to make sure that if it is a misfire ..either cuz by mechanical(valve train),ignition,air fuel....i will also hook 5 gas up ur tailpipe under a load and see if the engine is performing complete combustion at that particular range.....after all hardware and data chks out ...i would go thru all network and chk similar symptoms..
since ur car is so new...we as an independent shop still just getting the beginning of 06' model....i would definitely place wireless electronic microphone and
zero in where the noise came from and start chking on all bulletin and chrysler website....bear in mnd this is what a professional shop can do..not u!!...cuz car repair info is dime in a dozen..only with enuff experiences and training can get infomations from everywhere and finish the puzzle for conclusion...
but i can tell u 1 thing for sure....lookin at the O2 sensor on the scanner with live data at that rpm range will verify if u have a burn valve or else map sensor with vac transducer on an oscilliscope will verify a valve train problem.....keep me update

I have the same problem..

somewhere around 1,200-1,300 rpm's there is harmonic low pitch growling like sound that seems to come from the front - best guess is low to the ground in the center of vehicle under the hood maybe a little closer to the passenger side (feels like it's coming from just in front of the center console towards front of vehicle).

no grumbling is detectable when not in gear and car is revved to culprit RPM value (neither neutral or park) so it seems car must be in gear. also, speed seems to play a role as 1,200 rpm's at some speeds it is not present (or at least not as pronounced) it is worse around 38 miles per hour and you get in the sweet spot of 1,200-1,300 rpm's. same speed at another rpm there is no noise..

I think I can hear it through all gears at that rpm but it may be my imagination but it may be there at a lower volume that I just can't hear it over the road and wind noise.

took to dealer and thought it was alternator and it was replaced -- no effect.


40,000 miles, SXT..

Thanks for any input...

So this is happening when you are acceleration lightly but does it matter if you are on a hill or not? Will it do it still still if you put your foot on the brake and rev the engine to 1200 RPM or where ever it does it?

The noise they are talking about in this post is called detonation. So you may have the same thing but we need to do some things to confirm this. Let me know this info and we can go from there. Thanks

why does my dodge caravan 2003 sputter when the air conditioning comes on and feels like it will stall when at a stop sign while the ac is on.

do you have a check engine light on or blinking?
check for vacuum leaks
check it for tune up
check AC on

I cant believe this was an answer to this question. Expert my ass. rip off is more like it. I could give the same answer myself. Shit maybe I need to work here. Auto Zone could have done better

My van sputters when I am at a stop light and when I start my car up in morning it just sputters, but never cuts off.

You need to list the correct engine size when you have an engine running problem. Have you read the diagnostic fault codes? What have you checked so far and what were the results?

SE (2.4L 4-cyl. 4-speed Automatic)
CV (3.3L V6 4-speed Automatic)
Sport (3.3L V6 FFV

I can't get any codes because check engine light has not came on.

The Check Engine light has absolutely nothing to do with reading fault codes. There are over 2,000 potential defects that can be detected. Only about half of them refer to something that could adversely affect emissions. Those are the codes that turn on the Check Engine light. You can have one of over 1,000 codes that never turn the light on.

when i turn my air conditioner on it draws alot from the engine, and when i am a stoplight with the air on, the car sputters and feels like it is going to conk out.

please advise

thank you

do you have check engine light on ?
I would start by checking it for tune up
check the AC system

The check engine light is not and does not come on, and I just had a tune up 1 year ago at 65,000 miles , which included, wires, plugs, fuel injector clng, fuel filter. Any other suggestions?

when we stop at a red light or stop sign it sputters and kinda jumps, the rpms will shoot up high when it does this. also it has went dead on us when we stopped. what causes this

Sounds typical of an intermittent vacuum leak. The Engine Computer is trying to lower the resulting high idle speed, then when it does come down on its own, the automatic idle speed motor / valve is set too low and the computer has to quickly open the valve to get the engine speed back up to where it should be. Then, when the vacuum leak shows up again, idle speed goes up too high until the computer kicks in and tries to bring it back down.

Intermittent vacuum leaks are typically caused by flexing vacuum hoses. Leaking gaskets are more permanent and steady.

If a leak isn't obvious, you'll need a scanner that can display live data to see what the computer is seeing and basing its decisions on.

enter your question...Why does my minivan sputter when I accelerate up hill and often at a stopsign?

My van is running rough, when at a traffic light it stutters when i press on the gas pedal. It sometimes back fires but the check engine light is off. When i take it in the tech tells me that they cannot duplicate the issue. I'm being told to wait till the check engine light comes on and to bring it back in. Symtoms seem to be getting worse but still no check engine light is coming on. When checked with the computer it shows no issues. Please help

Have you checked for vacuum leaks? Has fuel pump pressure been checked?

Let me know.
Joe

No vaccum leaks. I have not check fuel pump pressure i will try that next. Thanks for the input

LEt me know what you find. If you need directions, let me know.

Joe

My van has been in the shop three times and they still have been unable to find the problem. After making sure the fuel pump was good, cleaning the fuel injectors, and running through the computer, now they tell me the only thing left to do is rebuild the engine. Here is the problem. When the van is in idle or reverse it starts puttering really bad. It had never stalled but it feels like it is going to. Sometimes I can feel it while driviing, also. Any help would be greatly appreciated

is there an engine light on? check the idle air control valve.

No, the engine light has never been on. Can a do-it-yourselfer change the idle control valve or should I leave this up to the professionals. Thanks for such a prompt response

yes you can, its right on the throttle body, there are some simple instructions that you can follow and thats all thats to it, I cannot, believe they are considering rebuilding the engine

one more quick question. Will the engine light be on if it is the valve, or not all the time. Also, does one have to remove the throttle body or can yoiu replace the IAC in place. Once again thanks

could go either way, may be on, may not. and yes you can change the iac without removing all of those components

Thank you, you have been such a help. So basically all I need to do is remove the air resonator assembly and the throttle body will be there. Then I would unplug the IAC connector and then unbolt the IAC Valve. Then just replace it with a new one and hope that is the problem. Does that sound right or am I missing something.

your iac is right where your throttle plate is, Im not sure if there is a "resonator"or not.

If you don't mind, how is the IAC attached. to the throttle plate?

there is a little bore that the iac sits in and is held by I believe two little screws

Thanks, you have been a great help. I am going to order the part an attempt to do this. Any last words of encoragement? I would leave you feedback but I do not have enough points.

well, just be patient , dont be nervous, its no big deal, and just follow instructions if there are any.

I just ordered the part and will be here tommorow. I will let you know if that was the problem. Thanks again.

I just changed the IAC valve and thought it was better. However, when I turned on the air conditioner the the hammering or puttering is really bad. So now that we ruled the IAC out do you have any other ideas? Could this problem all be tied into the air conditoner. I checked the refrigerant pressure and it is fine. I also used throttle body cleaner and cleaned out the throttle body which did not help.

hey, are you saying when you turn the a/c on there is still a hammering or puttering? where is this noise comming from?(what area) is it causing a rough idle??

This sounds like when you turn the engine on it is bogging down due to the excess load. If this is the case, we need to know a couple things. First, what is the RPM when this is happening? Second, what is the fuel pressure when this is happening? Lastly if you can get a recording of the noise, that should help us identify what the issue could be. Thanks

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-fuel-system-pressure-and-regulator