air filter replacement

if all bolts have been removed all thats left is to pull the air filter housing off, it may be stuck a little bit if its been on there a while, just put a little muscle in to it ;) note* make sure all bolts and clips have been removed before removing housing

This video will help

https://youtu.be/J6_us0bshJY

Please let us know if you need anything else to get the problem fixed.

Engine Performance problem
2000 Dodge Caravan Front Wheel Drive Automatic

How do I remove Air filter cover to replace air filter?

The cover of the air cleaner housing usually has four clips that you unlatch and then you can lift it up and out of the way. If you are sure you need one tell the parts store your engine size and the new filter has instructions, or the person will be glad to show you how it is done, then you'll be on the way to maintaining your minivan properly. Good for you.

Engine Performance problem
2000 Dodge Caravan 6 cyl Front Wheel Drive Automatic

Hi bob and Ken,
I went for my second emission test yesterday but unfortunately, my vehicle failed again. The hydrocarbon went higher to 86 than the first time which was 76. And besides, all the reading went high. I did spark plug change, oil and flter change. I also change the air filter and even added a fuel injector cleaner.
The "check engine light" is not on and there is no problem with the engine performance because it runs good and very smooth.
What must be the problem that causing high hydrocarbon? Is it the MAF sensor or O2? I am just worried because I have 3 more days left for my plate renewal. Is it ok to drive 20 miles before going for an emission test?
Please advice me what to do so my vehicle will be able to pass the said emission. Thanks a lot.

2000 Dodge Caravan High Hydrocarbons

Hydrocarbon failures mean unburned gasoline is passing through the engine and entering the exhaust. The three most common causes include ignition misfire, lean misfire and low compression (typically a burned exhaust valve). Ignition misfire can be caused by worn or fouled spark plugs, bad plug wires or a weak coil. Lean misfire results where there is too much air and not enough fuel, so check for vacuum leaks, dirty injectors or a fuel delivery problem. In addition to these, hydrocarbon failures can also be caused by oil burning due to worn valve guides, valve guide seals and/or rings.

How do you get at the air filter to replace it on a 2000 Dodge Caravan? it looks like I have to take the whole unit off and still I don't know how it comes apart.

You need to slide the assembly up and out. I believe there is only one screw at the top that holds it to the rad support. Remove that and lift it up. From there, I believe it is clipped shut. Check out the images (Below). Please let us know if you need anything else to get the problem fixed.

1998 Dodge Caravan 6 cyl 125000 miles Totally mechanically challenged so bear with me. I have the above mentioned caravan and there is a black tubing coming from air filter container to top of oil tank. Looks like it has been cut or broken and also looks like it had been repaired with black tape. Started feeling like it was not getting fuel the other day. Next day would not start and looking under hood found the tubing in two pieces and tape sticking out of the tubing coming from oil tank. What is this tubing called and where can I purchase it to replace. Thanks!

I had this exact problem the other day. Just go to your local kragen or auto zone and get a 5/8" hose. I bought a heater hose and installed it no problems. And its very cheap. Cost me around $2.

Transmission problem
1998 Dodge Caravan Automatic 140000 miles

I just had my transmission rebuilt. When i got it back it idles erracticly when the engine warms up then when i come to a stop it dies. We have done a tune up(replace plugs wires, distributor, new air filter) also we have replace the throttle postion sensor. any ideas what the problem could be?

thanks,
Tia

Tia, do you have a check engine light? If yes, I would need to know what code # and the description. My first thought is a gross vacuum leak. You want to check all your vavuum hoses for splits or disconnects, especially around the transmission area. Hope this helps.

[quote:c009ff2bf5="James R. Weizel"]Tia, do you have a check engine light? If yes, I would need to know what code # and the description. My first thought is a gross vacuum leak. You want to check all your vavuum hoses for splits or disconnects, especially around the transmission area. Hope this helps.[/quote:c009ff2bf5]


check engine light is not on. No codes come up on the scan tool. Have also checked for vaccuum leaks. there are not any.

My first suspect would be the idle air control motor IAC. It's mounted on the throttle body unit. This little unit's main purpose in life is to control the engine idle speeds to compensate for AC, power steering, cold fast idle, etc. It may just be carboned up and just need cleaning. This can be done by removing the unit and spraying it down with an ordinary can of carb cleaner. Hope this helps.

One more simple thing to not overlook. You didn't say how long ago or how many miles since the rebuild. They would have disconnected the battery. After that, minimum idle must be relearned by the engine computer. Until this is done, the computer doesn't know when you have your foot on the gas pedal and when it must be in control of idle speed.

It knows your foot is off the pedal when you're coasting. The strategy it uses is higher than normal manifold vacuum for seven seconds. High vacuum will occur if you snap the throttle open and closed real fast, but not for seven seconds. You have to coast down from highway speed for the high vacuum to occur for seven seconds or longer.

When these conditions are met, the engine computer looks at the voltage from the throttle position sensor and puts that in memory. The next time it sees that same value, it knows it has to control idle speed.

Most technicians will perform a test drive specifically to prevent this customer complaint after doing any work that requires disconnecting the battery.

You may have met the relearn conditions by now, but introduced another problem by just changing a bunch of parts without diagnosing the problem first. Specifically, by throwing a throttle position sensor on it, the sensor voltage at idle will be different than before, possibly by only a few hundredths of a volt. If the computer ever sees a voltage lower than before, it will put that into memory, but if it never goes down to the voltage it saw with the old sensor, it assumes you are holding your foot on the gas pedal so it lets you control idle speed.

There could be a lot of other causes of erratic idle, but expect to have to just drive the vehicle if the battery is disconnected again.

caradiodoc

how do I change air filter

You'll need to find out the engine size, it's on a decal under the hood, usually right on the underside of the hood. If you can't find it get the VIN number off the dash pad, its located on the left front where the windshield meets the dash pad. When you bring it home you'll see the size, it is under a black cover that runs from the air intake to the air cleaner box or housing as it is referred to. It will have metal clips or plastic screws that hold the lid on, you can just unclip it and bring it up by bending the rubber air hose it is attached to. The old one just lifts out and put the new one in the same way. If your not sure look in the section on how to replace iot here.

Hi there,

Could you please guide me how to change the air filter on my dodge caravan, as where is it located and how to go about it please. I found it complex as compared to my toyota camry which is easy to change. Also I have two types of air filters in market, one is white colour and other is like orange colour, i drive in city usually, not highway.

I would appreciate your guidance in both the matters.

Thanks.

REMOVAL 1. Remove 2 screws and air inlet resonator (Fig. 125). 2. Loosen 3 clamps holding air cleaner housing halves together. Fig 126 Air Cleaner Housing (Left Side) 3. Remove left side of air cleaner housing (Fig. 126). Fig 127 Air Cleaner Element 4. Remove element from air cleaner housing (Fig. 127). INSTALLATION 1. Install a new element in housing. 2. Position left side of housing. 3. Snap clamps into place. 4. Install hoses and air inlet resonator. There is your instruction's i have never seen a orange air filter element maybe you mean a orange border air filter.I would just get a fram one there really good.

wow, i am amazed the answer with diagrams, impressed. Will accordinlgy.

Thanks for both the answers.

1996 dodge caravan engine died when just stopped in traffic. Engine spins but will not turn over. In the past putting transmission fluid in would solve the problem but not now. Battery checked out good and replaced the air filter

Transmission fluid isn't going to prevent the engine from starting.

All "crank, no start" conditions are approached in the same way. Every engine requires certain functions to be able to run. Some of these functions rely on specific components to work and some components are part of more than one function so it is important to see the whole picture to be able to conclude anything about what may have failed. Also, these functions can ONLY be tested during the failure. Any other time and they will simply test good because the problem isn't present at the moment.
If you approach this in any other way, you are merely guessing and that only serves to replace unnecessary parts and wastes money.



Every engine requires spark, fuel and compression to run. That's what we have to look for.

These are the basics that need to be tested and will give us the info required to isolate a cause.

1) Test for spark at the plug end of the wire using a spark tester. If none found, check for power supply on the + terminal of the coil with the key on.


2) Test for injector pulse using a small bulb called a noid light. If none found, check for power supply at one side of the injector with the key on.


3) Use a fuel pressure gauge to test for correct fuel pressure, also noticing if the pressure holds when key is shut off.

4) If all of these things check good, then you would need to do a complete compression test.

Once you have determined which of these functions has dropped out,
you will know which system is having the problem.

Engine problem
1993 Dodge Caravan 6 cyl Front Wheel Drive Automatic 252k miles
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My 93 Caravan ran great/ well maintained.
It just start running rough/ idled slow/ hardly any power without pumping the pedal.

Worsened quickly(across town) no power/ if you hold the accellerator steady, it lopes/ dophins?, and has a thumping backfire thru the intake.

I opened the air cleaner cover and it is sucking air like a jet engine!! Loud roar...never heard this noise before.

Puter code says O2/ replace it-not it/ replaced the ECG?? valve assembly, as per my mechanic...nothing.....

Gas pressure is good/ hoses are good.........
BTW......the brake booster became intermittent/ because of the vacuum snafu I'm sure.

Now they have my engine top removed, trying to find the problem. even the injectors...tho I don't see a pressurized fuel system affecting the vacuum..?

I need some help here before they decide to replace or rebuild the entire engine!!

I mentioned the MAF(sp?) sensor or the engine puter......I guess they didn't hear me....LOL!

HELP please.........Ol'Ben

FOUND IT........!

SPARK PLUGS....?? :oops: Believe it?

They were so bad it shouldn't have run at all.

The bad plugs made all the sensors send signals to the puter that something was wrong....
....it was....all the sensors were right, except none pointed directly at the cause.

The puter, doing it's job, started slowly adjusting 'things'.....fuel/ air/.....etc.....til it reached a point where everything just snowballed.

Thought I was gonna have to rebuild old faithful!!
The plugs were replaced and it ran..ok but not good.
Already had replaced the ECG valve/ sensor.
Changed the MAP........bingo........runs good as ever.

Compression was super, @ about 125 on all cylinders??
Fuel pressure was great/ the injectors were fine.

252K+, and is like brand new........

I thought I'd share this..........

Check those plugs!! :roll: :wink:

BTW.....the old plugs? Bosch. They had 4 tips on them.
Good, I guess. I just ran them too long.....LOL! :shock:

Thanks...................Ol'Ben

My van started jerking as if there was water in the line. I added dry gas and this did not help actually promlem is getting worse. My husband went to auto zone and we put some kiind of engine cleaner in, also replaced the fuel filter, spark plugs, air filter and have cleaned the idle air motor. He thinks that it may be the fuel pump, but after speaking with another mechanic we are not so sure now. We were advised to check the EGR and the MAP. It starts this "jerking" at anytime. Cold, operating temp, slow in town speeds not over 40mph. It comes and goes, we dont dare take it out on trips of any length including using it for work. Also besides jerking it will stall out several times. When the jerking starts if you put the van into neutral it sometimes stops but as soon as the can is put into drive it stalls out. Please help with any advice you may have on what this may be. thanks

I would clean the battery terminals and make sure they are tight to start, then replace the air filter. If this doesn't help then have it put on diagnostics at a dealer, there diagnostic tools are more advanced and can tell more than the hand held code readers. but sounds like an air/ fuel mixture problem or a lack of one or the other.

Engine Performance problem
1992 Dodge Caravan 6 cyl Front Wheel Drive Automatic 250K miles

The engine appears to lose power and then come up to full power an instant (~ 1 sec or less) later when under load (going up a steep hill) or at freeway speeds. Runs great at idle w/o issue. I have replaced the plugs, wires, and ignition inductor block, the fuel filter and air filter. Our local shop has not been able to figure it out, either.
any suggestions?

Have you checked engine compression? With 250K it may have a weak cylender.

Haven't checked it, but engine was rebuilt (by myself) at 147 K miles, so don't expect that is the issue.

I understand. If you have good spark, fuel pressure, no vacuum leaks, timing is correct... I still think that may be something that needs checked. What all did you do when you rebuilt it?

I did the whole 9 yards: valve job, new rings, honed the cylinders (machine shop work), reground crankshaft & new bearings throughout. new oil pump.

You mentioned vacumn leak. We have a problem with one of the heater actuator valves, I believe, because the heater water valve will not fully open. Replaced the valve, no change. Plugged in full vacum to the valve and it opens fine. Trouble shot down to one of the actuators under the dash, but hadn't torn the dash apart to repair it yet. Could this be a cause?