Engine is stalling at idle?

Start with check your idle air control motor. Sounds like it is sticking. Rough idle usually means vacuum leak. So, check and make sure that all your vacuum hoses are good and connected. Also check your EGR valve, making sure it is not leaking or plugged up. These guides can help us fix it

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/stall-at-idle

and

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/idle-air-control-valve-service

and

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-an-engine-vacuum-gauge

Please run down these guides and report back.

Hey thanks Zackman! You were spot on. I changed the idle air control motor and she works great!

Cheers!

Glad to help...

My 99 dodge Caravan starts up but shuts right off unless I keeps my foot on the gas. The second I take my foot off the gas the van shuts off.

Sounds like the battery might have been disconnected or run dead recently. If so, the Engine Computer lost its memory and has to relearn "minimum throttle" before it will know when it must be in control of idle speed. It also might not give you the normal "idle flare-up" to 1500 rpm when you start the engine. To meet the conditions for the relearn to take place, drive at highway speed with the engine warmed up, then coast for at least seven seconds without touching the brake or gas pedals. Check out this
guide.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/engine-stalls-idles-too-high-low-after-dead-or-replaced-battery

Please run down this guide and report back.

Engine Performance problem
1999 Dodge Caravan 6 cyl Front Wheel Drive 95000 miles

engine stalls when you come to a stop and while driving it like it wants to stall out but keeps running all my gauges drops `too low.

[email protected]

With engine off, check battery voltage.
With engine running(headlights,heater,radio on) check
charging system and check engine for DTC.
Get back to me with results.

thank you and happy new year.

Why does my van always die when i slow down or stop?

Check and test the following:

Idle air control motor, Throttle position and manifold absolute pressure sensors, EGR and PCV valves to include a fuel presure check.

My '99 Dodge Caravan with 101,000 miles on it has just begun to stall out when I begin to slow down. It drives okay on the highway or street when going above 30 or 40 but stalls as I slow down. I am able to restart it and must begin to drive immediately or it will stall out again. I also hear a tinny scraping sound coming from under the van and almost sounds like it's coming from the rear passenger side. About 6 ,months ago it would stall out when I was idling and my mechanic replaced the ignition idler which did the trick. I think this is a different issue and wonder if anyone has any thoughts about this problem. The van is well maintained.

It sounds like an exhaust noise. A pipe or muffler, and the idle speed control system is failing again. Dirt, contamination, or another sensor failure could cause this. I don't think they are related. Have your mechanic re-check the problem and have him check the exhaust system for this noise. It is unsafe to drive in this condition. I am happy you keep it maintained. It will last and give you peace of mind, safety wise especially.
Good luck. Bye

car stalls frequently after startup and when stopping

Has the check engine light come on? Have you checked for vacuum leaks?

Let me know.
Joe

Vacum leaks was checked first.Yes engine light constant always misfires.Is there a easy way to check timing belt?

If the vehicle runs good other than this problem, the timing is good. THe random misfire makes me question other things such as the crank sensor or fuel pressure. Have those things been checked?

Oh heck no.It runs sluggish.With occasional backfire.I just purchased new belts,they are visibly worn,(cracked)If I remeber correctly,I beleive the tensioner pulley was changed last year.The smoke is blue,but seams to smoke less after oil change.Thanks Joe.Will post after belt change.

After the belts, consider doing a compression test to make sure it is good. If it is running slugish all the time, I suggest checking the catalytic converter. It could be partially plugged if you have been burning oil. Too much back pressure can cause these symptoms.

As far as the timing belt, you will need to remove the cover to check it. Also, based on which V6 you have, you may have a timing chain.

Let me know. Also, bad valve seals will produce blue smoke, but clean up after driving for some time unless the guides are really bad too.

Joe

Hi Joe: It looks like some how I got mixed up with the guy who has the stalling problem? I'm the guy with mis fire. No matter,we both may have the same problem.Anyway.I changed belts & also splurged on a new tensioner.At first,on the first run.Ran great.Wasn't sluggesh.Second run 2 hrs. later,same thing.You may have something.With the cat.I replaced the upsteam o2 a couple months ago.It tripped a code all winter.I just erased & ran fine.The only doubt I might have about the cat.theory is the second downstream o2.It should of fouled up by now,no? Rusty Ford

One would think so, however, the upstream is exposed to more heat and backpressure. Try disconnecting the converter to see if it runs better.

Unbeleivable.I guess I should of listened to the first trouble code.Misfire cyl.#4 Turns out #4 terminal on the cap corroded,arked and cracked the cap.Very small crack I never seen the first time I checked.That one crack caused mayhem.Duh.Will no better next time.Thanks for the tips.Oh ya.One last question.Since I purchased a new tensioner.It doesn't have a guide on the outer edge to stop from slipping off like my old one.Is it possible to un bolt the pulley on my old one & bolt the guide on my new one?That is all that Goodyear kit is right?

That is good news. It was just a pain to find it. Regardless, I'm glad you found it.

As far as the pulley, if you are refering to the small flange on the end of the pulley, you don't need it. The new one will be fine. The belt won't come off.

Let us know if you have questions in the future.
Joe

my van stalls when coming to a stop. no other problems

You may just have dirt that is clogging up the small area between the throttle blade and the body it sits in, have a throttle body service, or read about it here and try cleaning it out yourself.
This is a good start, ok.

Hey Joe:
Yes,the flange.Well obviously it unbolts,because you can change just the pulley.I'm kinda kickin myself now,because the new tensioner already looks misaligned.The old one wasn't.I could hear the bearing was shot,but it still looked straight.I don't understand.I paid 120 for that tensioner& they have a little note inside the box suggesting to buy the extra kit.Talk about a money grab.Shame on chrysler.I think I may as well leave it for now.Besides just getting at it was a royal pain.

They are a pain. I can't believe it cost that much. Did you get it from a dealer? I don't know where you live, but I'm in PA. Around here they are in the area of 60.00.

WHat part of it looks missaligned? Also, if you could hear the bearing going bad in the old one, it would have eventually frozen up on you and cost you a belt and maybe a tow based on where you were. It's better that you replaced it.

Joe

Lately every once in a while i have noticed when I am driving my 1999 dodge caravan when I slow down when coming up to an intersection or when I am slowing down to turn into a drive or a parking lot sometimes my vehicle will stall while it is in drive and I have to put in park to restart it. Not sure if its an engine performance or not. Would you have any idea what the problem might be? The last time I had my oil changed where I normally get it changed, it was hooked up to a computer and they couldnt find anything wrong.

hi, I dont think this is a serious problem, I believe your problem is a dirty throttle body and possibly a faulty Idle air control valve. the valve is what keeps air coming into the throttle body when your foot comes off of the gas pedal,while the car is in drive. sometimes a dirty throttlebody will cause that problem too, so before spending any money on the part. I would clean it thoroughly first.

https://www.2carpros.com/how_to/how_to_check_fuel_pressure.htm

When vehicle comes to a stop at lite in park it quits. When I stop in neutal it does not.

You may have a bad IAC ( idle air control) but try cleaning the throttle body first. Remove the intake snorkel, have someone hold the throttle wide open for you and scrub the back side of the throttle plate and surrounding bore with an old tooth brush and some carb cleaner. Be sure to spray some into the small holes next to the throttle plate. That should help stabilize the idle. If it still has a problem, replace the IAC.

My 98 Grand Caravan will start for about 1 second then dies.
It will do this for 3-4 times and then nothing at all.
My service lights on top all light up, radio works, no speedometer lights.
Could this have something to do with the security switch? Is it difficult to repair?
What about the starter switch?
This is the second time in 70 days that it is happened.
Dealership replaced idle air controller, but said there may be other issues.

When it starts and stalls out it is sometimes a MAP sensor problem with this van. And a fuse or switch may be out. I am sorry your having this problem. Take it back, it should be covered under a warranty repair. If it is not something else. It's frustrating I know, but your doing the best you can. Maybe the IAC motor may have something to do with it. A dealership would not want you to not bring a problem with any repair made to anyone, this way they can help improve their service. If you take it to someone else, they will charge you, no matter what.

I had the same problem with my van. The shop I had gone to said there was a problem with the sensor and was not able to to order a part for it, but had to find it at a junk yard. (for someone who had the similar problem) They told me if it happened again to tap lightly where the were and then try to restart it. I only had to do it once since then, but it worked!!!

I have a 1998 Dodge Grand Caravan that will run as long as my foot is on the gas pedal. I cannot figure out what is wrong with it. I have replaced the EGR valve, the Throttle sensor, the ignition switch, did a tune up on it, and it still won't stay running. Does anyone know what it can be?

Sounds like the battery might have been disconnected or run dead recently. If so, the Engine Computer lost its memory and has to relearn "minimum throttle" before it will know when it must be in control of idle speed. It also might not give you the normal "idle flare-up" to 1500 rpm when you start the engine. To meet the conditions for the relearn to take place, drive at highway speed with the engine warmed up, then coast for at least seven seconds without touching the brake or gas pedals.

1998 dodge grand caravan - engine will turn over, but will not stay running for more than 2 seconds. Occasionally will start and run fine for couple days. What should we check? Did have check engine light come on, code was P1698. Disconnected battery, light off but still not starting.

this is all what i have on this code


i would check for a short in the wiring and also check fuel pressure and check for spark


good luck
Jack

DTC P1698: NO BUS MESSAGE FROM TRANS CONTROL MODULE (3.3L & 3.8L)
Monitored & Set Conditions
The Powertrain Control Module (PCM) and Transmission Control Module (TCM) communicate messages across the bus, as information from either module is needed to operate their respective systems. Messages from TCM are monitored with ignition on and battery voltage more than 10 volts. DTC will be stored in PCM if no bus messages are received from TCM for 20 seconds. Possible causes for DTC to set are: intermittent condition, defective PCM, or defective connectors or wiring.

Testing
1.Turn ignition on. Using scan tool, clear DTCs. Cycle ignition on and off several times. Using scan tool, read DTCs. If Good Trip counter for DTC P1698 is displayed and displayed count is "0", go to next step. If Good Trip counter is not displayed for DTC P1698 or displayed count is not "0", go to step 3 . 2.Turn ignition on. Using scan tool, attempt to communicate with TCM. If scan tool communicates with TCM, replace PCM. Program the new PCM. See PROGRAMMING . If scan tool does not communicate with TCM, perform NO RESPONSE FROM TRANSMISSION CONTROL MODULE test. See COMMUNICATIONS under SYSTEM TESTS in BODY CONTROL MODULES- CARAVAN, TOWN & COUNTRY, & VOYAGER article in ACCESSORIES & EQUIPMENT. 3.At this time, conditions for DTC to set do not exist or fault is an intermittent problem. Start engine and allow it to idle. Ensure engine is at normal operating temperature. Using scan tool, monitor parameters related to DTC while wiggling connectors and wiring harness. If value changes while wiggling connectors and wiring harness, repair connectors and wiring harness where wiggling caused value to change. If value does not change, review Freeze Frame data using scan tool. Attempt to duplicate condition that caused DTC to set. Check for any related technical service bulletins that may apply. Visually inspect related connectors and wiring harness. Repair connectors and wiring harness as necessary. See WIRING DIAGRAMS article. If no problems are indicated, test is complete.

© 2007 Mitchell Repair Information Co., LLC.

Stalls at idle.

Can you please add more details to your description? With nothing else to go on, the most common way to solve this is to drive at highway speed with the engine warmed up, then coast for at least seven seconds without touching the pedals.

I have a 3.0L v6 1998 Dodge Grand Caravan. One day, I went to the store and parked, went inside and was gone for 10 minutes. I came back outside and got in the van, put the key in and turned. The van started up and it sounded lazy starting up. It fired for about 1-2 seconds and then died. I tried turning it over and it just repeatedly turned. It didn't fire up again and I had to walk home.

The next day, I had a friend come and try to jump it, because he thought it might be the alternator or battery, and it fired up again for 1-2 seconds then died and continued to turn on and on with no firing.

I've done some research, and I've narrowed it down to a few things, and this is what I've got..

I think it's definitely fuel related, so I think it's either a clogged fuel line, a bad fuel pump, the injectors need cleaned (or replaced) or the fuel filter is severely clogged. If not fuel related, could it be spark plugs or a blown fuse? Anyone have any idea what it could be?