Engine stalls at idle and coming to a stop?

Has the check engine light come on? When you place it in gear, does it jump before stalling or just simply stall? These guides can help us fix it

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/stall-at-idle

and

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/idle-air-control-valve-service

and

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-an-engine-vacuum-gauge

Please run down these guides and report back.

My wife was driving our van home from work and she pulled into the gas station and it stalled. Tried to restart and let it idle it would die again. She tried once more and if she keeps on the gas pedal it will stay running. She drove it home that way. I started the motor later and it will idle until the motor gets warm then it dies out again unless u keep giving it gas. There really is no check engine light but when it dies out and u leave the ignition on, the oil light eventually comes on. No other light is on. Is this problem a sensor problem, electrical or more?

For a start check the idle air control motor/throttle position and manifold absolute pressure sensors-also the PCV and EGR valves.

If you allow it to idle for 15 to 20 minutes it works great, until you shut it off. Then you are back to idling 15 to 20 minutes regardless whether it is off for seconds or minutes or hours.

Check for vacuum leaks and check the idle air control valve.

1996 Dodge Caravan 6 cyl Front Wheel Drive 150122 miles

I have a 1996 Dodge Caravan with a 3.8 engine and 3.1 cylinder. My Van runs pretty good. Some times it makes a funny noise when I drive until I accelerate. (Someone said it was the water pump). But my van just stops running at times when I pull up to an intersection or at a corner. (Just dies out) I still have power in my van when it does that. then if we let it sit, it will start up and drive for a day or two and die out again. I had a tune up done also. My strap broke a little on the gas tank because it was rusting but it still held up. I got that fixed also. So what do you think is causing my van to stop at times?
Diagnostic says o2 sensor

THe O2 sensor shouldn't prevent it from restarting. Have you ever checked to see if it getting spark and fuel when it doesn't start?

what would cause my caravan ti stall when put into gear. transmission was re-built about 4,000 miles ago.
Thank YOU

If you raise the idle just a little and put it in gear, does it kill the engine dead, or does it try to move? If it kills it dead, your torque convertor clutch could be locked up. Do you get a check engine light while the engine is running? Please advise.

Thank You for answering. To answer your questions, while the van is idleing if you give it enough gas it stays running in gear. Once when it is running it is fine to switch between the gears. The check engine light just came on and this has been doing it only one week prior. Thank You

Please advise

What ever tripped your CE light will be stored in ECM memory. If you can have the computer scanned and retrieve whatever codes are stored, this could be a valuable clue(s) as to what's going on. Autozone will do a scan for free as well as many major parts stores. Let me know what you find.

Engine Performance problem
1996 Dodge Caravan 6 cyl Front Wheel Drive Automatic
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Twice my car has died while coming to a stop sign and once while driving. The dash board lights up
and dings. But when you try to turn it back on it will not restart. after sitting for a while it wiil eventually
restart. We had a tune up done no codes came up
on the computer. I have heard that Caravan can have problems with the fuel pump relay switch.
Do you think this could be the problem or could it be
the fuel pump itself?

[quote:24c425c2a1="mlauffer"]Engine Performance problem
1996 Dodge Caravan 6 cyl Front Wheel Drive Automatic
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Twice my car has died while coming to a stop sign and once while driving. The dash board lights up
and dings. But when you try to turn it back on it will not restart. after sitting for a while it wiil eventually
restart. We had a tune up done no codes came up
on the computer. I have heard that Caravan can have problems with the fuel pump relay switch.
Do you think this could be the problem or could it be
the fuel pump itself?[/quote:24c425c2a1]

Hello,

Well, it could be a couple things.... first need to check a couple things.... when is stalls and won't restart you will need to check to see if it is getting fuel. You will need a fuel pressure tester . If fuel pressure is fine the next thing to check is Spark, to do this you can use a philips head screw driver pull a plug wire off place the screw driver in the end then place it somewhere that it will be close within a quarter inch of a good ground and NOT the Battery Ground. have someone try starting the vehicle. You should see a spark jump between the driver and the ground.

Post results here in the forum.....

Engine Mechanical problem
1996 Dodge Caravan 6 cyl Front Wheel Drive Automatic

The van has a 3,L V6 eng, it will start but unless you are giving it gas, it will die. If you stop for any reason it will die, basicaly as soon as it's at idle. After the van gets warm it will idle and drive properly, i'm not shure what to think of this any help will be apprecieated.

Your idle speed is almost completely reliant on a motor.An IAC motor. They fail, or need cleaning. It, the TPS and the blade(throttle) are mounted on the throttle body, your accelerator pedal cable is attached to it. Use a nylon brush(thin and small) with carb. cleaner to clean out the blade, IAC motor, and their holes., see if it helps. You can do this yourself, or you may check to make sure you have the proper fuel pressure(at least 50lbs.), ok Careful.

my wife has a 96 caravan, the vehicle has a very uneven idle, while letting the vehicle pull at its own power(not pushing accelerater) like going thru a drive thru, 9 times out of 10 it dies. It starts back up no problem. recently when she turns on the air, heater, fan, and even the rear defroster the engine makes a high pitched squeeling noise, giving it some gas seems to make it stop. While driving uphill sometimes it starts jerking like the engine is cutting out, pushing harder and letting it drop to a lower gear fixes that to. I know that the smog pump is bad and can hear that rattle, but I dont know if that could cause all the other problems as well. It has 310,000 miles on the odometer, but had the engine rebuilt about 30,000 miles ago. Any help you could give would be greatly appreciated. thanks.

There are many possible causes, the throttle position is constantly looked at by the computer(PCM). If something goes wrong a fault code may be stored and later retrieved with an electronic scanner. Idle speed and fuel control are all done with motors and sensors. Both a faulty idle speed motor or a throttle position sensor could cause this. Bring it back to the place that the engine was overhauled at. Before it causes another problem. OK Joe

Man I wish I could take it back, but I bought the vehicle used after the rebuild. But Ill definetly try the tps sensor. Where is the Idle Control motor located on the vehicle.I appreciate your help buddy.

The engine recieves air through a fresh air system known as the air intake system.
Different cars use either a single air cleaner and plastic hose, bringing fresh air to the throttle body or some have different arrangements either factory or aftermarket made. The air filter sits in this just before the air enters the Throttle body, assuring fresh and filtered air is drawn in. All your cables that controls the idle speed are attached to the throttle body. It looks just like a smaller carburetor. The throttle position sensor is mounted on one side of the throttle body. The idle speed motor(IAC) or air idle control is also mounted on it. just below the throttle blade. It moves in or out to give the engine a sort of a controlled vacuum leak, and the manifold absolute pressure sensor, senses the drop in vacuum, telling the computer to give the injector more gas. So both the TPS and the AIC are usually right on the throttle body, which houses the thrrottle blade. Just follow the accelerator cable and you will see it mounted right on the throttle body, near the TPS. It has 3 wires at least.
Clean it and clean the hole it came out of with carb. cleaner and a small nylon brush.
I think that you may be hearing that loud screech coming from the alternator belt as you give it a load turning on accessories. Glad to help.

Ill definetly check that out, and let you know how it went. Thanks again.

Ok you have good luck. Disconnect neg. battery cable and don't squirt carb cleaner in your eyes. I did, about 11 times, not as bad as high octane(pink) fuel. see ya

I have a 1996 Grand Caravan and the weather has just turned cold. When I started it the other morning the idle was surging or hunting up and down and finally stalled. I was able to drive it but had o use two feet to keep it running as soon as I lift off the accelerator the rpm drops and stalls. This only happens at temperatures below -10c other wise the van starts and runs fine, idles right on 700rpm and you don't need to drive with two feet. What is the cold temperature affecting to change the idle and stalling issue. I am not getting any codes or an engine light coming on.

The idle problem sounds like the throttle position sensor (TPS), but since it happens only at a certain temp, something tells me the temp sensor is bad. If it is bad, it could tell the computer to make the air / fuel mixture too rich or lean.

My van's engine seems to choke up and shut off when I put it into gear from park. I can turn the key and she will turn over but as soon I take it out of park (into any position, drive, reverse, etc.) it stalls or something, the engine just cuts off. But if I put it directly into neutral with my foot on the gas to keep the RPM's up higher than idle the engine will not cut off until I let the RPM's drop again. From my limited knowledge of cars and the research I have done (including on this site) I want to say it is a fuel pump problem. However, I would like a professional's opinion before I start unscrewing nuts and bolts all willy-nilly. Please advise!

Thank you,
-Thomas

If once you get it moving down the road and it runs and drives okay, it is not a fuel pump or filter problem. I would look at the idle air control (IAC). This little unit is supposed to compensate for added engine load ie. in gear, AC, headlights etc. It may just have to be removed and cleaned with regular carburetor cleaner.

I removed, cleaned, and reinstalled the idle air control (IAC) and the problem is unchanged. Is it possible or likely that it needs to be replaced all together or might it be something else?
I used the OBD system (i.e. turning the key ON OFF, ON OFF, ON and wait for the flashes) and got flashes 1, 2, 5, 5. According to my Haynes Repair Manual that MIL Code equates to codes 12* which is the battery disconnect within the last 50 key-on cycles (which i knew) and the other 55* description says "Completion of fault code display on Check Engine lamp." Which i have no clue of the meaning. I am at the end of my rope here and really annoyed and need a working car! Please suggest anything you can think of that i should check. Anything that even might be a problem that fits this issue.
Again if i get her to start in Neutral or park and keep the RPM's up above around 2000 plus and keep it there while switching into Drive i can get her moving. But (even while moving) if the RPM's are aloud to fall she chokes up and the engine cuts off (whether it be stopping, slowing down, or coasting)

I have an exact problem with my 2000 Grand Caravan 3.3. There is no check engine light on. Have you figure it out?
Thanks

Check your fuel pump pressure first and scan the engine for codes. It should be 49 psi with just the key on, but unfortunately you need a scan tool to activate the pump. It cold also be a fuel filter but do not change that until you get the pressure checked. Also check your EVAP purge solenoid to make sure it is not open all the time. Just check and see if you have vacuum going through both sides at idle. If you do it needs to be replaced but you should have a code for that.

Did you ever figure this issue out five years ago, haha. I am having the extract same issue on a 1997 Dodge Grand Caravan 3.3 140,000 miles.

Regardless that this post is many years old, you need to start a new question. This was a conversation between the people here. None of the other experts are going to see your addition or have a chance to reply. That does you a disservice. Thank you for including the engine size. Too many people fail to do that when they have engine running problems.

To answer your question, this problem has an extremely easy fix that was never addressed here. The original post mentioned the fuel pump. Logic dictates it has to be working if the engine runs at any time. The next point of confusion is one I have never encountered until now. That is the fault codes. Two-digit codes are used on 1995 and older models. All cars sold in the U.S. starting with 1996 models use the "On-board diagnostics, version 2", (OBD2) emissions system. One of the characteristics of that system is it uses three-digit fault codes. On the older system, code 12 just means power was lost to the Engine Computer. Most commonly that is because the battery was disconnected. Since that has no adverse effect on emissions, it will not turn on the Check Engine light. Code 55 means the system is done displaying fault codes. I have never heard of someone not understanding what that means.

You have a 1997 model, and with that system, three-digit codes are used. Chrysler still makes reading them yourself much easier than any other manufacturer. If you do not know how to do that, I can describe it. The glaring clue to this problem is the need to hold the accelerator pedal down 1/4". It may be necessary to do that to get the engine to start. Also, you will not get the nice idle flare-up to 1,500 rpm at start-up, and it will tend to stall at stop signs. All of this is caused by the Engine Computer losing its memory when the battery is disconnected or is run dead. Fuel trim data and other operating parameters will be rebuilt as soon as you start driving again, except for "minimum throttle". The symptoms related to stalling are due to idle speed being too low. The computer has to relearn minimum throttle before it will know when it has to be in control of idle speed.

The conditions that must be met for the relearn to take place are real involved, so I hope you're sitting down! Drive at highway speed with the engine warmed up, then coast for at least seven seconds without touching the pedals.

Thanks for the information and advice! I found a fix for my specific idle issue. I disconnected the brake booster vacuum hose, ran the engine and switched gears to cycle the idle air motor (be careful not to hit the gas because you will not have brakes to stop!). Then I reconnected everything and it appears to be idling good again, it must of reset or relearned the computer settings.
I will also perform the highway relearn process you discribed. Thanks

I do not know what that did, but it sounds more complicated than it needs to be.

The Engine Computer needs to know when your foot is off the accelerator pedal, then it takes a voltage reading from the throttle position sensor and puts that in memory. That is the minimum throttle voltage it needs to see from then on. It will adjust idle speed whenever it sees that voltage.

The first step in knowing when to take the reading is it needs to see higher-than-normal intake manifold vacuum. That will occur if you snap the throttle open and quickly release it, but there is no guarantee you released it fully. That high vacuum would only last for two or three seconds. Coasting from highway speed is the only way to make that vacuum stay high for seven seconds. Pressing the brake pedal will cancel the relearn procedure, and pressing the accelerator pedal will cause the TPS voltage to vary. That will tell the computer your foot is still on the pedal, and it should ignore the relearn request.

No two sensors are ever exactly alike. When the TPS is replaced, if the signal voltage at idle is lower than that of the old sensor, the new, lower voltage will immediately be put in memory. If the voltage at idle is higher than before, the computer will assume you're holding the accelerator pedal down a little. It will learn the new value the next time you coast for seven seconds.

For most people, the seven-second coast procedure is a normal part of daily driving, so idle speed problems aren't a concern. More problems are caused when people start blindly replacing multiple parts that need to be learned by the Engine Computer. It does that by comparing the characteristics of a single new part to those of other sensors and operating conditions. Replacing numerous parts at the same time can confuse the process.

Idle speed can also be too high. Most of the time that is due to a vacuum leak, but it can also be caused by the computer reacting to an incorrect sensor signal. For example, a coolant temperature sensor that is reporting a temperature that is too low will cause a high idle speed. You need a scanner to view live data to see what is happening. The computer places the automatic idle speed motor to one of 256 "steps". Each step rotates the armature a small amount, and that retracts the pintle valve to expose more of the air passage around the throttle blade. For a properly-running engine, step 32 is typical. With a single-cylinder misfire on a V-8 engine, step 50 is about what can be expected to bring idle speed back to where it should be. The AIS motor has enough control to maintain desired idle speed with six cylinders disabled on a V-8 engine.

When idle speed is wrong, you need to know the step the computer has placed the AIS motor at. If it is "0", minimum throttle has not been relearned yet. If the step is real low but idle speed is too high, the computer is trying to bring it down, but without success. If the step is very high, the computer is trying to overcome the result of whatever is causing the speed to be too low.

I have a 96 dodge caravan.it is a 3.3L with 160,321.I don't know what the problem is I replaced the fuel filter,fuel pump,gave it a tune up.oil change.I took it to a repair shop and no error codes are coming up.but when I drive sometimes the car stalls at a red light or even waiting for a light on a hill.when I go to restart the car it comes back on or sometimes.it goes right back into the stall position.I took it too a mecahnic and he and fixed the problem atleast I thought so.it worked good for about 3 weeks now it shuts off on me almost everyday twice a day almost got into an accident because of this problem can any one help me

kinda sounds like a problem with the power booster that is robbong too much vacuum from the engine. At the very least check for vacuum leaks.