heater core removal

No the steering wheel does not need removed. Alldata should include all steps necessary for removing and installing the heater core, but just in case you didn't get it all I will post Mitchell1's version for you. .

Thanks for speedy response, combined withALL DATA, they'll be helpful.
However,I have no yet donated,but I will, right after this posting.
The instrucions you posted are too small to read when printed ,although I enlarge them 200% on the screen but cannot print them larger than they are on the screen.Anyway to print them larger?

Thanks.

sure give me your email addy and i can email to you, then you can make them larger and print them larger.

[quote:7f9bd8d986="bluelightnin6"]sure give me your email addy and i can email to you, then you can make them larger and print them larger.[/quote:7f9bd8d986]


Thanks,email: [email protected]

Thanks, the email received, however,without the dash image included.

And I'm having problem making it larger to print.Don't know why.

ok i sent new email, see if it looks any better, i had to send in a few different files instead of just 2 though..

Thanks, your email received and successfully printed.

Now looking forward to take the van to AC guy to
discharge the system and order a new a Auminum Gasket before I start the task . Refrigerant oil?
I'll keep in touch.

just started this monter job today, (heatercore/ac evaporator removal) ,the way I see it ,the whole dash has to come out unless I'm wrong.

I'm having difficulties locating "right and left panel silencer"under the dash.What do they look like?

So far about 50% or more of the dash panel removed,I need help regarding the above questions. Anyone? Thanks

the silencer panels are the plastic trim pieces that sit beside the driver's legs. the right trim will be to the right of the driver's right leg and visa versa for other. it's just plastic paneling that is held on by several plastic clips in the back of it and maybe a few screws .

Thanks for the response,I'm sure I over did it,almost every panel is removed except the airbags and speedometer. The instructions are not detailed enough for me espercially without more pictures.

Well I managed,the ac and heater core housing is removed,antifreeze leaks are all over inside the housing.
I used break cleaner by the suggestion of a mechani c to clean the housing but unfottunately the ac mode door and the temperature door inside the ac/heater housing got sprayed-on and the foam pads covering these doors were eaten thru by the break cleaner.the ac mode door got the worse of it.(Should've been care tho).

I'm going shopping, junkyard/dealer for replacement.
If unsuccessful,then I,m hopiong for suggestions about some kind of adhesive stuff to paste/spray on these doors and use a new foam pads covering on them.?
Any suggestions? Thanks.

3M Adhesive Spray is a very great spray glue that comes to mind. I have used it for several headliner repairs so i'm certain it would hold up for what you need.

What really can be used to seal the heater/ac box including the blower motor part of the housing unit?

90 percent of the original sealer is still in place and feel very pliable.
Someone suggested Permatex #2 , another, Rope calking? What do you suggest?
Thanks.

permatex 2 will not harden and is designed for sealing cut gaskets, i wouldn't go with this. use a water based duct sealer instead. they produce less fumes so it's safer to use and much easier to clean up.

Thanks, I like the water-base duct sealer route,'less fumes and easy to clean'.

Any particular kind water-based duct sealer or the're all the same?

You mentioned that "permatex will not harden". Is that a good thing or bad for this project?

Would water-based duct sealer harden?

Just trying to learn something here.
Thanks again for your patience and response.

They are pretty much all the same, some brands may just offer a better warranty or come in different size tubes than others.

I appreciate your response and the links.

Do you know if water-based duct sealer will harden or pliable, like the factory-original used on this heater/ac box?

Thanks.

some do and some don't so just make certain on the tube/can it says that it is designed to harden. I know that the QC CEMSEAL brand does harden, but others such as MASTIC does not fully harden.

The factory seal on this box is not harden,it comes right off. So then I'll be looking for the MiISTIC kind not fully harden?
Thanks.

yep, correct.

Thanks.

I'm having difficulties finding the right water based duct sealant for this plastic ac and heater box.
Please check the link below and see maybe I' missing something?
It seems the water based ones are not formulated for plastics, like my ac and heater box?

Am looking for non harden, water based that stays pliable and can be used on plasticm but the informations they provide does not say all that.

Am I asking much? Thanks.

Slowly but I'm getting there,need help with following. The following is from ALLDATAdiy :

When all air conditioning system is first assembled, all components (except the compressor) are refrigerant oil free. After the system has been charged with R134a refrigerant and operated, the oil in the compressor is dispersed through the lines and components.

The evaporator, condenser, and filter-drier will retain a significant amount of oil, see below. When a component is replaced, the specified amount of refrigerant oil must be added.

When the compressor is replaced, the amount of oil that is retained in the rest of the system must be drained from the replacement compressor. When a line or component has ruptured and oil has escaped, the compressor should be removed and drained. The filter-drier must be replaced along with the ruptured part. The oil capacity of the system, minus the amount of oil still in the remaining components, can be measured and poured into the suction port of the compressor.

EXAMPLE: On a dual system the evaporator retains 60 ml (2 oz) . The condenser retains 30 ml (1 oz) of oil, and system capacity may be 220 ml (7.40 oz) of oil.
220 ml minus 90 ml = 130 ml (4.40 oz) .

CAUTION: The refrigerant oil used in a R-134a A/C system is unique. Use only oils which were designed to work with R-134a refrigerant. The oil designated for this vehicle is ND-8 PAG (polyalkalene glycol) .

Front A/C


- Compressor 142 ml (4.73 oz)

- Filter-Drier 15 ml (0.5 oz)

- Condenser 15 ml (0.5 oz)

- Evaporator 30 ml (1.0 oz)

Dual A/C


- Compressor 220 ml (7.4 oz)

- Filter-Drier 30 ml (1.0 oz)

- Condenser 30 ml (1.0 oz)

- Evaporator 60 ml (2.0 oz)

- Rear Evaporator 60 ml (2.0 oz)


I don't understand all of the above information so I really need your help using what's applicable in my case., I have front a/c only. In my case, new evaporator-condenser-filter drier- and hoses. None installed yet.

I'm reusing the old original Denso compressor waiting for ordered a/c oil to start the draining the original ND8 PAG oil from this compressor and fill the system with new DEC pag 46 dyer oil. (please advice if there are better alternatives.)

My question, from the above ALLDATAdiy info, my compressor takes 4.73 oz a/c oil by itslf or the entire system takes 4.73?

How should I start this proccess?

Thanks.

use PAG (ND - 8 ) oil only, the entire system will hold approx 6.7 ozs of oil, what you have is talking about the compressor only. with the new drier you will want to use new refrigerant line-to-receiver-drier gaskets. Also add 1 oz of oil to it before you install it. for the new evaporator, add 2 oz of oil before installing. when installing condenser use new refrigerant line block-to-condenser block gasket and/or "O" rings. If using "O" rings make sure to coat them with some refrigerant oil. New condenser needs 1 oz of oil before installing.

Thanks, by your calculation,rec/drier 1.0 oz, evaporator 2.0 oz, condenser 1.0 oz. That leaves 2.7 oz for the compressor.Right?