1993 Dodge Caravan major break problems

1993 DODGE CARAVAN
158,000 MILES • 6 CYL • FWD • AUTOMATIC
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CYNTAJEAN
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About a week ago, my front drivers side roter began rubbing. When we replaced the front brake shoes and roter, we discovered that we also needed a new caliber. After replacing both, we bled the brakes. Still no brakes. We have replaced the brake lines, the master cylinder, the brake regulator valve under the master cylinder, and the brake power booster. We have used gravity to bleed all of the break lines. When you pump up the breaks, it builds up pressure. When you turn off the vehicle and restart it there isnt any pressure again and the peddle hits the floor. One of the back brake lights is also staying on. We had to disconnect the battery so that it wouldnt run down. Does anyone have any suggestions on what we should try? We have run out of options.
Jun 19, 2008 at 9:38 PM
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LEGITIMATE007
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is this an abs system?
Jun 19, 2008 at 10:25 PM
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CYNTAJEAN
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no abcs. only have a brake light that comes on. my brother said he doesnt think that it has abs.
Jun 19, 2008 at 10:29 PM
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LEGITIMATE007
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well you can tell if you have a brake booster and no conventional master cylinder, just this big computerized block with two, caps to put brake fluid in
Jun 19, 2008 at 10:34 PM
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CYNTAJEAN
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it has a brake booster that looks like a big air tank. he replaced it already. the master cylinder is a normal one with two holes on the top and it has a valve on the bottom that attaches to different lines.
Jun 19, 2008 at 10:37 PM
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LEGITIMATE007
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The sequence for bleeding is right rear, left front, left rear and right front.

If the vehicle is equipped with power brakes, remove the vacuum by applying the brakes several times. Do not run the engine while bleeding the brakes.
Clean all the bleeder screws. You may want to give each one a shot of penetrating solvent to help loosen the fitting. Seizure is a common problem with bleeder screws, which then break off, sometimes requiring replacement of the part to which they are attached.
Check the fluid level in the master cylinder and fill with DOT 3 brake fluid, if necessary.
Brake fluid absorbs moisture from the air. Don't leave the master cylinder or the fluid container uncovered any longer than necessary. Be careful handling the brake fluid,it is a great paint remover. If any brake fluid spills on the vehicle's finish, flush off with water immediately. Check the level of the fluid often when bleeding, and refill the reservoirs as necessary. Don't let them run dry, or you will have to repeat the process.

Attach a length of clear vinyl tubing to the bleeder screw at the wheel cylinder or caliper. Insert the other end of the tube into a clear, clean jar half filled with brake fluid. Start at a rear cylinder first, then bleed the opposite side front cylinder.
Have your assistant slowly depress the brake pedal. As this is done, open the bleeder screw 1/3-1/2 of a turn on wheel cylinders and at least one turn on calipers, and allow the fluid to run through the tube. Then close the bleeder screw before the pedal reaches the end of its travel.
Have your assistant slowly release the pedal after the bleeder screw is closed. Repeat this process until no air bubbles appear in the expelled fluid.
Repeat the procedure on the other calipers and cylinders, checking the level of fluid in the master cylinder reservoir often.
After you're done, there should be no sponginess in the brake pedal feel. If there is, either there is still air in the line, in which case the process should be repeated, or there is a leak somewhere, which of course must be corrected before moving the vehicle.
Jun 19, 2008 at 10:43 PM