Engine stalling?

Hello,

First thing would like you to check is the wiring behind the thermostat for exposed wires. If they are exposed fix wiring and test.

Post findings....

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ok, i will check that out and get back to you.

I cannot figure out what wires you may be refering to behind the thermostat. the only wires near the thermostat are the spark plug wires, and they are fine.
do you know where i can get a wiring diagram for the 2001 grand caravan se? i need to know what sensors the 5 volt supply wire all feeds on my vehicle. i also need to know the path the 5 volt wire takes in my wiring harness. thanks

The 5-volt supply output is monitored when ignition is on. DTC will be stored in Powertrain Control Module (PCM) memory if 5-volt supply output to sensors is less than 3.5 volts for 4 seconds. Possible causes for DTC to set are: intermittent condition, defective A/C pressure sensor, defective Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) sensor, defective Throttle Position (TP) sensor, defective PCM, or defective connectors or wiring.

1.Turn ignition on. Using scan tool, read DTCs. If Good Trip counter is displayed for DTC P1496 and displayed count is "0", go to next step. If Good Trip counter is not displayed for DTC P1496 or displayed count is not "0", go to step 8.

2.Ensure ignition is off. Disconnect TP sensor connector. TP sensor is mounted on throttle body. Turn ignition on. Measure voltage between ground and Pink/Yellow wire at TP sensor connector. If voltage is less than 4.5 volts, go to next step. If voltage is 4.5 volts or more, go to step 7.

3.Turn ignition off. Ensure TP sensor connector is still disconnected. Connect a voltmeter between ground and Pink/Yellow wire at TP sensor harness connector. Turn ignition on. Note voltage reading. Disconnect MAP sensor connector and note voltage reading. If voltage did not change from less than 4.5 volts to more than 4.5 volts, go to next step. If voltage changed from less than 4.5 volts to more than 4.5 volts, replace MAP sensor.

4.Ensure ignition is on and voltmeter is still connected between ground and Pink/Yellow wire at TP sensor harness connector. Note voltage reading. Disconnect A/C pressure sensor connector. A/C pressure sensor is located on A/C refrigerant line between filter-drier and expansion valve in right rear corner of engine compartment. If voltage did not change from less than 4.5 volts to more than 4.5 volts, go to next step. If voltage changed from less than 4.5 volts to more than 4.5 volts, replace A/C pressure sensor.

5.Turn ignition off. Ensure TP sensor, MAP sensor and A/C pressure sensor connectors are still disconnected. Disconnect PCM connectors. PCM is located on left side of engine compartment, in front of battery. Measure resistance between ground and Pink/Yellow wire at TP sensor harness connector. If resistance is 5 ohms or more, go to next step. If resistance is less than 5 ohms, repair short to ground in 5-volt supply circuit (Pink/Yellow wire) to TP sensor. See WIRING DIAGRAMS article.

6.At this time PCM is assumed to be defective. Replace PCM. Program the new PCM. See PROGRAMMING.

7.Turn ignition off. Reconnect TP sensor connector. Disconnect MAP sensor connector and note voltage reading on voltmeter. Turn ignition on. Measure voltage between ground and 5-volt supply circuit at terminal No. 3 at MAP sensor harness connector. If voltage is 4.5 volts or more, go to next step. If voltage is less than 4.5 volts, replace TP sensor.

8.At this time, conditions for DTC to set do not exist or fault is an intermittent problem. Start engine and allow it to idle. Ensure engine is at normal operating temperature. Using scan tool, monitor parameters related to DTC while wiggling connectors and wiring harness. If value changes while wiggling connectors and wiring harness, repair connectors and wiring harness where wiggling caused value to change. If value does not change, review Freeze Frame data using scan tool. Attempt to duplicate condition that caused DTC to set. Check for any related technical service bulletins that may apply. Visually inspect related connectors and wiring harness. Repair connectors and wiring harness as necessary. See WIRING DIAGRAMS article. If no problems are indicated, test is complete.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/mitchell1eautorepair-car-repair-manuals

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I have a 1997 Grand Caravan 3.8 with similar symptoms. Been chasing this intermittent stalling for 2 years. Finally nailed it today. Didn't have all of the codes as you but did have the Baro out of range code. Where the plug for the MAP sensor terminates in the engine harness the wires were broken inside the insulation. Read it all with VOM and then checked for continuity thru the plug probing the wires about an inch back. When flexing the wires near the plug found the intermittent open circuits. Plugged it back in and moved the wires with the engine running and could duplicate the stalling. Best I could tell the weight of the main harness was putting the wires/plug in a bind at certain times. Just the weight of my finger on the harness would cause it to stall.So made up a new pigtail and extended it taking the weight off the wires. Zip tied it all and good to go. Lot of time in this one. Just an extra vehicle to us but didnt want it stalling with the wife and kids in it. 265,000 miles and still runs good. Hope this helps someone out there.

Excellent addition to this thread! Please feel free to help out whenever you are on the site :)

My wife was driving home and the van cut off.
We had it towed to our house and I looked at it.
What I see is when you turn the key in the ignition nothing happens.
No lights on the panel nothing.
No check engine, ect,

The headlights come on and the blower fan comes on.
The map lights work and the flashers come on.
The turn signals will not work even with the ignition all the way on.

I ohmed out the 30 amp fuse and visually inspected the rest.
If you leave the drivers door open and put the key in the chime comes on.

Acts like there is a short in there some where, any help would be great.
Thanks
The radio will eject a cd, but will not turn on otherwise.

I had an issue kinda like that and found the starter wiring was damaged which killed most of the stuff you describe. can't hurt to check it.

Van started to feel like it was going to stall while driving originally, then the maintenance light came on.
Then the stalling actually occured either immediately after starting the engine, or stopped at an intersection, or slowing down to making a turn.
We then brought it into the repair shop for a major tune up. This had actually made the problem worse.

Now, the car would start, and then stall after a few minutes of driving. Restarting the engine has gotten harder and harder. The final episode occurred when I was driving at a speed of around 60km/hr, the car just started decelerating by itself, and then when it reached around 40 km/hr, it was back to normal.

It would stall again the next few minutes, and i had to wait about 5 minutes before i could get it going again, and then i was able to drive for about 20 minutes to get home without any problems.

This morning, i could not start the car at all. It needed to be towed back to the shop at the shop's expense, and they told me that the 'distributor' cap was loose! and then later called me that i had to change the fuel pump. This was after the fact that i had already spent 600 plus dollars on a tune up. The fuel pump would cost me another 700 dollars to replace! Is this where the problem lies? Could the problem be with something really minor that has been overlooked?

Could be the ASD relay, fuel pressure regulator, fuel pump and last the PCM.

So we replaced the fuel pump, and it still will not start. So now we are thinking it is the electrical problem. How should we start diagnosing the problem? Is there a step by step guide with diagrams so we won't mess things up?

thanks

Turn key to On-do you hear the fuel pump humming/buzzing for a few secs. if not its an electrical problem.

Remember the computer energizes a relay-maybe an ASD relay if it has one or fuel pump relay before it gets to the pump.

Could be an ignition control module,coil, or crankshaft position sensor.

i have a 1991 dodge caravan, the problem is the van won't stay on when started. starts, then have to keep gas petal down for it to stay on once gas pedal is released engine stops. then i turn the key again and it starts. what is this problem

so the car ran fine for a few days, and today it acted up again. It stalled, and I haven't been able to start it. I will try again later.

In response to your question, yes, I can hear the humming noise from the feul pump when i turn the key to ON. This is very consistent after we changed the fuel pump. Before we did this, sometimes we could hear the humming, sometimes not.

So you don't think it is an electrical problem?

check for a vacuum leaks
is time for a tune up
check /clean /replace idle valve
good luck

Check your fuel Filter in the tank

so we fixed the problem
not the fuel pump, not the oxygen sensor

IT WAS THE PHOTO OPTIC SENSOR....

be driving and car cuts off

Check fuel pump pressure and spark to the engine when it dies. From there, you can focus on the component that is causing the problem.

I briefly got the car running again today after about 45 minutes of cranking, but it was extremely rough. Any time the gas pedal was pressed it would sputter more and die. The fuel pump is about 2 years old. I checked the fuel filter and it was quite clogged. I replaced the fuel filter but that did not fix the issue. I then replaced the distributor and wires. Still no go. I then had the fuel injectors cleaned. Still no go. The TPS sensor has also recently been replaced. I have checked the air filter and it is also fine. I did notice some backfiring at times in the intake manifold. Another thing I noticed is that when I turned the engine off after it had run for a while either the TPS sensor or something near it would make clicking noises for about 20 seconds then stop. There are no check engine codes showing either. What else can I check. I cannot even get it to start now.

Have you checked fuel pump pressure? Also, is the clicking coming from the idle air control valve?

i have not checked the pressure as i do not have the equipment for that. i also could not find where the clicking was coming from before it stopped. on top of these two possible causes, can you think of anything else? one other item of note is that when it was somewhat running there was white smoke coming out the exhaust. could a blocked catalytic converter cause this?

I didn't know about the white smoke. That usually indicates a bad head gasket. You will need to check engine compression for that.

I don't know where you are, but most nationally recognized parts stores will lend or rent tools to you. Most just ask that you pay for the tool, and then you are refunded the full amount when you return it.

Let me know.

Joe

Dodge Caravan 1990, 175,000 was running fine one day. Next day, put van into reverse and slowly backed out of driveway, put into drive. When I stepped on the gas slowly, the van engaged and moved forward - to about 5 mph. When I pressed on the accelerator again to go faster, the van started slowing down - almost to a stop. It doesn't stall - but feels more like someone is stepping on the brake simutaneously with the gas. After several attempts, it continued doing the same thing over and over. When put in reverse, it does the same thing. My husband is capable of simpler mechanic fixes so any "quick fixes" you can recommend wil be tried. The previous owner took pretty good car of this vehicle and I've owned it for about 2 years, just driving it around town. It had rained a lot the day it started this so I thought maybe it had something to do with water somewhere, but it's been about 2 months now and still does it - making it non-drivable. It also vapor locks in the summer - if that is any help. Thanks for your time!

Is the check engine light on? Have your husband rule out the simple possibilities. Check the rear brakes to be sure something isnt broken. Be sure that you can spin the front wheels both directions by hand. Might be a trans problem

runs like new on warm days.starts but stalls on cold days .never had this proplem before this winter.no codes stored in memory.all maintinence and fluids are current and up to date.help please!

The cold weather brings out the worst in any electric or mechanical part. If you have low fuel pressure you will notice it more in the cold. If you have a sticking IAC motor on the throttle body, same thing. Also in 89, the computer for the engine was not very quick to store a code. It may be a good idea to clean and test your fuel system. A coolant sensor could also be off, yet store no codes. Your gouing to need someone to roadtest it cold. Try and bring it somewhetre and leave it overnight for the technician. Try to have an ASE certified tech. look at it. Maybe some fuel dryer and additive may help. In 89, there were very few cars and vans that stored codes. It was one 'no code' after another. But you have some pretty high mileage, if you never had to replace your fuel pump, this may have something to do with it. And the idle speed motor can also stick, neither will store any code. They sell a nice fuel pressure tester. At the store. I got my eye on it. These gauges were 200 dollars in 89. If you need anything feel free. I would need to drive it to be sure. And know the engine size and history of repairs. ok

1989 Dodge Caravan 4 cyl Automatic 120000 miles

My 1989 Dodge Caravan will start and run for up to 30 seconds but as soon as you go to put it in gear it will die. If you try to restart it it will just die faster and faster and then if you give it gas sometimes it dies faster but sometimes it won't. I am also getting error codes 12, and 25.

code 25 AIS MOTOR CIRCUITS Shorted Condition Detected In one Or More AIS Control Circuits

can you keep it running by raising the rpm

Thank you for getting back to me. The car will not stay running for anything. Sometimes it will run longer if you give it gas but mostly it dies and if it is cold outside it kills it quicker when given gas. But the longest it will run right now is 30 seconds and that was yesterday when it was 70 outside.

its not drivable !
check fuel pressure ?
let me know what you have for pressure

I am not sure how to check that.

Then check our video collection on how to
click on this link it will take you to the video collection and then choose fuel pressure test
https://www.2carpros.com/video.htm

Thank you very much; not sure when I can do that I do not have one of those gages. But I do appreciate all your help I wish I could give you some money for your help.

Thank you,
K Lujan

You are very welcome
you dont have to buy the gauges most part stores will let you use it for a small deposit or fee
wish you best of luck

88 dodge caravan w/2.5. engine does not stall or misfire but will occasionally die as if the key was turned off. usually at thermostat opening or after. when it first started doing it it would simply restart. now it takes about 10 minutes and the key has to be turned off. till today, it would only do it once and then be fine for the rest of the day. today it died three times in 30 minutes. fuel pump is working with the key and there are no codes stored that i can find. any ideas?

Hook-up a fuel pressure tester and monitor it if its within specs-start here to catch it if its a fuel pump problem

Change the Hall Effect Switch under the rotor in the distributor. Very common problem. Also called the pickup assembly.

caradiodoc

Change the Hall Effect Switch under the rotor in the distributor. Very common problem. Also called the pickup assembly. When it fails, the fuel pump will run for the initial one second after turning on the ignition switch, but it won't turn back on during cranking. You won't have spark either.

caradiodoc

would the pickup still be indicated if the engine never has a problem starting when its cold or sometimes goes three weeks before it does it again