1995 Dodge Avenger car idles too high!!!!

the computer may have to relearnthe idle. disconnect the battery for a few hours then restart it.

make sur nothings holding open the throttle body.

you sure you didnt rip a vaccum line or disconnect something causing the idle to go up?

i checked vacuum lines, also my ehaust manifolds are glowing red after five minutes of idling, do you think this will go away if i get my idle down? have aftermarket exhaust from the cat back. car was sitting for four years. possible the new idle control motor went faulty? you say a few hours before, i hook the batterty back up? i tried like ten minutes a few times but that didnt work. no codes pulling up on the dash, so im lost!!!! i had code 14 up on the dash, whch displays map sensor voltage too low or high. thats when i replaced it. i did take the intake manifold off to change the spark plugs and wires, but i checked over that twice already. i think everyone hates this stage, when they dont know what to do next. thanks again for the previous answer, and will do my donation.

try the old sensor again, does the idle go down? has the idle been messed with at all? if you have a idle adjust screw back it out a bit see if it will come down. the map sensor can be leaning it out or running it rich causing the sensor to heat it up.

with a voltmeter and a hand held vaccum pump check to see if the sensor is performing properly.

i will definetly try the olds sensor and put a voltometer on both of them. there is a set screw for the butterfly valve, but the idle is controlled by an iac motor, which i just replaced. thanks again, illl check it out and get back to you, o2 sensor on the exhaust manifold possibly?

try turning it down a bit the idle adjust screw could have the butterfly valve outside of the range of the iac control module.

02 sensor will take a bit to work right away so wont affect the cold idle.

hey so here is the story i changed the map sensor back to the old one, started the car and it idles at 1 1/2 thoousand rpm. put the new one on and it idles at just a hair over two thousand rpm? when connecting the ohm meter to the old sensor, its reading 26.78 and the new one reads 7.78. what is the max resistance the new sensor is suppost to put out? p.s. as soon as i start the car when cold, it revs up too three thousand then goes down too two thousand right away, and stays there. engine warms up fast but, stays in the normal temp range

with engine running disconnect the electrical connector from the map should be no more then 4 volts.

sounds like the damage is not in the wiring since replacing the sensor causes a change in performance.

i tried unplugging the map sensor when running, didnt check the vols yet, but it idles lower. when i put it in gear with out the masensor connected it idles at a thousand rpm. and when its plugged in it idles at 1500 rpm. i wil check he voltages on the plug for the map sensor, but im leaning towards a cacuum leak. i just didnt want to buy a vacuum gauge. 50 dollars to use it for a few seconds. guess ill have to fork out more.o2 sensors i unplugge them then started the car, didnt make a difference, didnt know wether it would or not. new map sensor reads 7.78 ohms and other two pins read 1.68 hms. does this sound correct?

me again, wn\ent out and used a voltmeter on the plug to the map sensor, with the ignition on, the yellow and black wire reads 4.97. the green and yellow reds 5.09 and the other wire reads .025 volts, tested the wires on the plug and then at the computer and the numbers were all the same. couldnt check it while the car was running on the plug it would fluctuate from two hundred rpm too 600 rpm. am i looking at a new brain for my car here? also when its cold it now idles at 1700 rpm, when t warms up after three minutes it idles jsut above 2000 rpm. and also when i rev it up, it goes back down to the high idle very slowly, not like my other car step on the gas and the idle falls down fast(NORMAL) but idle on the car goes down really slow. let me know please thanks

1. read map sensor voltage value
with engine running. if voltage
is less then .2volt go to step 6.
if voltage is more then .2volt turn
off engine then turn key back on engine off.

2 read the MAP sensor voltage value, if
it is less then 1.2 volts go to step 6
if it is more then 1.2volts wiggle sensor
connector and harness while watching
scan tools display.

3. if the voltage changes when the harness
is wiggled the harness or connector is bad
if the voltage does not change go to step 4

4. with engine running disconnect
map sensor connector, read voltage value
if sensor voltage is more then 4 volts
replace the sensor. if less then 4 volts
proceed.

5. check the voltage on map sensor
dark green/yellow wire or violet/white wire.
if less then 4 volts repair open in appropriate
wire. if more then 4 volts turn key off.

6. disconnect the PCM and use a ohmeter
check resistance between the MAP sensor
connector and yellow black wire and black
dark green wire or dark green/red wire and black/light
blue wire. if resistance is less then 5
repair the short.

7 if more then 5 volts check reistance
of the MAP sensor connector
yellow/black wire or dark green/red wire
if resistance is less then 5 ohms repair short
to ground in appropriate wire.
if more then 5 ohms replace pcm.

also clean out your vaccum passages. it is possible that a new map sensor could be bad also. has replacing it cleared your codes?

would like to thank you for your help. i took the upper plenum off under light and nit that gasket but the one that connects it too the block, is in pcs. you can actually see the gasket slowly getting sucked into the motor. so gotta change it, definetly my vacuum leak. thanks again. will try to post a pic of i can

glad to hear that youve found the problem. sorry i wasnt of much help.

thank you very much for the donation and have a good day. hopefully you can get some pictures!