CVT start clutch pressure control valve voltage

We don't have a manual for this vehicle, but we do have one on similar vehicles, so we are going to have to use the wiring diagrams from them.

This does sound normal because when you go to key on, there is a wake-up signal sent and it basically is a circuit check and then it removes voltage until it needs to activate the solenoid.

So, this means we need to start with checking for codes to find out what may be causing the blinking D. More than likely it is an issue with the range switch but let's start with this guide and see what codes are there:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/checking-a-service-engine-soon-or-check-engine-light-on-or-flashing

I am attaching the diagrams below which we will need to use for the testing but let me know what the code is, and we can go from there.

Thanks

Thank you for the reply, I checked the code and indicated
Car Scanner ELM OBD2
DTC report
Selected brand: Honda

============1==============
P1887
Raw code: 1887
ECU: 0E
Status: Confirmed

More details if the code indicated TCC solenoid, I bought a new one and changed but when I changed it the car couldn't reverse and could move forward then stops moving and throws a code P1885, when I change back to the old TCC solenoid it moves perfectly only blinking D and not going to higher gears and delay in shifting but moves fine. I have changed the speed sensors but no change. I changed the range switch but no change.

Okay. Sounds like the replacement TCC was faulty because when a replacement part causes a new issue, normally that part has an issue.

However, I would leave the old TCC in the vehicle and then perform the testing below to find out if we have a wiring issue.

More than likely this is related to the flashing D, so we need to start with this and go from there.

Thanks

Thanks very much for the support, I will try this and give you an update.

Sounds great. We will wait to hear back and we can go from there.

Thanks for the update.

Hello Kenny, I did the troubleshoot for ABS and all seems to be good, after that I went back to the TCC connector, terminal 1 shows the battery voltage and terminal 2 has good continuity but my question is, If terminal 1 has battery voltage (approximately 12.4v) shouldn't this light up the test bulb? I tried testing using a test bulb, but the bulb didn't illuminate. Is this normal or I have a bad connection?

If you are using a bulb on 12 volts with a good ground then the bulb should light.

The only thing I can think is the connection isn't good but can you get a picture of how you testing this?

Maybe we can see something that doesn't look right.

Thanks

I turned the ignition switch on and connected the negative terminal of the multimeter to battery ground and the positive terminal of the multimeter to terminal 1 of the female connector while the multimeter is set to DC voltage. That's how I managed to get the 12v reading from the multimeter, but when I replaced the multimeter with a test bulb, it didn't illuminate.
For continuity I changed the multimeter to continuity mode (Wi-Fi symbol) and tested the second terminal.

Got it. Are you sure the bulb is working? Test the bulb across the battery positive and negative.

If it can't light a bulb, then you most likely have a wiring issue as it is not able to carry the amperage.

However, I don't remember seeing one that measures with 12 volts and is not able to light the bulb at all. Normally it is just pretty dim which is a sign of high resistance.

The bulb works perfectly, so, does this confirm that I have a bad positive terminal? How should I fix this?

What this means is you have high resistance or an open circuit where you are testing it.

So, what I would do is remove the connector at the other end of the circuit which should be the PCM. Then connect your meter leads at both ends of the circuit on the connectors and measure the ohms. This is just a wire so it should be less than a half ohm of resistance.

Here is a guide that talks about this:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-a-voltmeter

This is different than continuity because that is only testing if there is a complete circuit. We need to see how much resistance is in the circuit.

Sorry for the delayed response, I have just seen this reply.
I have just measured the resistance of the wire at the two ends, and it reads 0.6ohms. What should I do next?

Okay. If you have 6 tenths of an ohm, then that is a good wire from where you were checking it.

At this point, if you have resistance and it still will not light the bult then the point at which you are supplying power is not actually making connection or your ground is faulty.

However, that test shows that the wire you test is good. So, I would do the same test on the ground side of the circuit and see if you don't have a good ground.

Actually, I already did the test for ground by connecting the black wire of the connector to the bulb and the other end of the bulb to the positive terminal of the battery, while the ignition switch is on, the bulb lit. I also did a ground continuity test and there was continuity.

Okay. So, it is hard to tell you why the bulb was not lit at all when doing the other test because it appears everything checks out.

The only thing I can think of is when you removed the meter and put the bulb in its place, did you cycle the key again?

Yes, could the problem be coming from the ECU? Or they are not related?

Yes. It could. The ECU is what would send the signal but again, if you have 12 volts but it doesn't light the bulb then we have to be missing something.