My engine stalls out while driving?

Hello,

It sounds like you have a fuel pump going out which is common. Here is a guide to show you how to test it.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-fuel-system-pressure-and-regulator

and

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/engine-stalls

Here are some diagrams that will help you change out the fuel pump.

Please let us know what happens.

Cheers, Ken

Hi,

Do any of you know what's going on and how to fix the following problem?
My 2003 CV8 Monaro remote keys sometimes unlock and sometimes do not unlock the doors. Now both spare and usual keys do not start engine. The engine ignites, tries to idle then conks out. Can you help?

Unfortunately we don't have this vehicle in the USA so I don't have a manual on it but it sounds like you are having a security issue. The start then stall is indicative of a key security issue. Then the not unlocking could be the same issue or just a weak battery in the key. I would suggest starting with a new key and check for codes. If you have a code that will point us in the correct direction.

Sorry I don't have more detail info for your vehicle but this issue is pretty common along a lot of vehicle lines.

im currently having troubles with my car as when i try to start it, its as if the car dies out within a few seconds. i currently just put a new ignition in myself as i had gotten the key stuck in the ignition. would that be the problem on why the car keeps cutting out? would it have anything to do with the coil pack?

Could be, go back in and investigate-something is not align or whatever-

when it starts you hear a big pop but as i start it again it just wont catch like theres no gas running through. But i have been running it on lpg.

Check the fuel pressure with a gauge if its within specs

run a scan for fault codes, they can have issues with key readers.

2001 Holden Commodore vx equip Automatic 230000 miles

After driving the car for awhile it just cuts out. This problem only just occured after refuelling at unfamilar petrol station. There is no problem starting the car or re- starting the car after it cuts out . It just stops no noise no nothing . The engine just cuts out. Could this be a problem with the fuel? All help would be greatly appreciated as I live in the middle of nowhere and rely on my car 100%.

Hi there,

The most common cause for this in these cars is a faulty crankshaft position sensor, you can get a fault code scan to check this out, start here.

Mark (mhpautos)

it was the fuel pump btw

Hi
For the past year my car battery light occasionally comes on while I am driving and my car shuts down. Also at times when I attempt to start it, it won't turn over. I have taken it to my mechanic and he can't find what is wrong with it. I have tested the battery and it is good and also changed over the fuel pump and it is still happening. Please help.

Probably a faulty alternator, fuel pump feed is from power side of alternator, if the alt drops out(light comes on) the fuel pump relay nay drop out and shut of the pump, Check relay and alternator as that is faulty if charge light is coming on.

my car keeps cutting out when the weather is hot you can be driving along the highway or anyroad and it just cuts out and dies but only when its hot never when its cool

Hi there,

Start with a diagnostic scan, this will show up any unresolved fault codes that may be set when the car shuts down, start here.

mark (mhpautos)

I have the same problem. i had the scan & nothing showed up

check for any signs of tracking around the coil pack, check fuel system pressures and filter.

it was the crank angle sensor behind the harmonic balancer, fixed it

Hi, my vehicle runs for two minutes then it stops, I have to wait a little while for it to start again.

Hello,

Is there a check engine light on, it sounds like it could be one of two things that would cause this, first I would look at fuel pressure because if the fuel pump goes out the engine will stop, here is a guide on how to test for that, you will need to tap into the fuel line to test it,

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-fuel-system-pressure-and-regulator

next if the ignition spark stops the must common thing for this is a crankshaft angle sensor which goes bad then cools down and start working again, use these guide to check it out

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-test-an-ignition-system

and

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/crankshaft-angle-sensor-replacement


Please let me know want you find out.

I start the car, but the engine dies right away. The only way to keep it alive (but still can't move it) is by revving it up but I have to push the pedal back and forward just to keep it alive that way, if I hold the pedal it will just die on me again. A couple weeks ago when I started it, it started okay ( it was going down and the back up with a quick rev) but once it stopped after about 2 - 3mins it was running fine. But now it won't even start up longer then 2seconds.

I'm not familiar with your car brand or model but I see you've been waiting a long time for a reply. What you described was very common on Chrysler products in the late '80s and early '90s. It was caused by a failed MAP sensor. Chrysler is the only manufacturer I'm aware of that has never needed a mass air flow sensor. On their engines, the MAP sensor had the biggest say in how much fuel was commanded to enter the engine. When it had just started to fail but wasn't bad enough to set a diagnostic fault code, the clue was the engine would stay running as long as the accelerator pedal was moving. The engine would stall as soon as the accelerator was held steady. Normally the throttle position sensor has very little say in fuel metering calculations, but in this case it became more important to the computer.

On your car, also look at that mass air flow sensor. It's in the fresh air tube between the air filter and the throttle body. There can't be any leaks or loose clamps on that hose. All air going into the engine has to go through that sensor to be measured so the right amount of fuel will be calculated.

Hey,
Thanks for the reply, I haven't checked the error code yet but hopefully will soon. There is a pipe that I think is the air flow filer and it has a big spilt in it I know it needs replacing, but didn't think it would cause the car not to start.
Holding the pedal steady will kill the car as well I have to push the pedal as if I'm cranking for water in the old days up and down up and down or it will die even if I do that tho it still dies out.

Hi ,
This is a big problem for me as i m a novice in terms of cars.Ill explain u what happened.Yesterday the car was giving me troubles while changing gears with it dying out sometimes but then going good. Today it is just not moving.The car starts fine, engine is smooth but as soon as I change the gears, it dies.Have tried all gears but still does not work.What should I do?Dont want to spend big bucks coz i am a student on allowance.
Regards
Sid

Hello .. thanks for the donation .. much appreciated

You will need to have the car plugged into a diagnostic computer to retrieve any engine and transmission fault codes stored on the cars computer .. repost with full fault codes for more assistance and repair information .. the fault codes will guide us to where the fault actually lies !

hi,
just got my car back together with new head gaskets and its running really really well except for when it get to running temperature at idle the motor will die down to 500rpm for a second, and it does it every 30 seconds

Hi there,

The base idle may need re setting or you could have a faulty idle control motor, have the mechanic who did the head work check this out.

mark (mhpautos)

i done the head work my self and will fix this problem my self aswell. base idle seems to be set right it idles good at 800 then every 30secs it drops done to 500 than back up to 800.

What dose it do with the idle control motor unplugged, have you run a scan, this could be a faulty term sensor or idle control motor.

Mark (mhpautos)

Engine Mechanical problem
1992 Holden Commodore 6 cyl Two Wheel Drive Automatic

Every other day while driving the engine stalls. It starts again no problem. The fuel pump is a year or so old. This has happened during the day with the headlights off.

Hi there,

These engines have problems with crank shaft position sensors, get a scan done to test for any set fault code, also check that the harness connector plug for the fuel pump is in good condition i have come across faulty plugs that have caused problems.

mark (mhpautos)

I have a VP Holden Commodore, I have had some issues this past year with it switching off while driving it, I have had it tested and had the crank sensor and oxygen sensor replaced. It has been running perfect for the last 3 months until today I lost power once again. The oil light and battery light came on and power cut off, I lost steering and brakes, I had to use my hand brake to stop the car. All fluid and oil levels are on normal levels, the power steering fluid was on min level which now has been filled up. What is causing the engine to switch off? the mechanic I have been taking too says it could be something in back of engine causing it to happen is this correct, it only happens while driving it, and its done several times but today was the first day I lost braking and steering.

It mat be a fuel pump failing or the DFI module under the coil , a mechanic will have to test these, but unfortunately they will have to be tested when the car has stopped, if it is running you will not get any indication that something is faulty.

Its not the fuel pump, that was ruled out ages ago. The car also has gas, the engine switches off while driving, all my sensors and everything has been replaced.

When it happens oil and battery light come on, after engine has switched off. The fluids and oil is at normal levels and battery was replaced 2 months ago.

Engine switches off while driving forward, last timem causing steering and brake to go stiff, i also lost the acceleration which you do when car is turned off but in this case the engine turned itself off.

The car takes a few goes to restart engine after this episode

If it is only stalling on the gas side of things you will have to get the gas system serviced, probably a problem with the converter, check to see if it is starting to freeze up when it stalls, if so check to a coolant loss as well.

The engine and power goes off completely on gas and fuel, there is nothing wrong with either type of fuel or gas it's been serviced on a regular basis, I had a new thermometer put in cos car had trouble starting was too cold.

It has been working perfect for months. Until now while driving engine turns engine switches off, loses all power.

The fuel pumps etc was replaced 3 years ago, in past year it's had new thermometer, and all sensors replaced

You will have to get the ignition system fault tested if the problem is consistent with both fuel's the issue will be in the ignition electrics, you may have to do a continuity test of of all ignition wiring back to the ECU.