Creaking sound whenever braking?

I can hear the noise in the link. Can you please shoot a quick video with your phone so I can hear the noise? that way I can tell for sure what's going on. You can upload it here with your response. We need to hear the noise so we know which direction to go to help you fix the car. It takes time to upload so please be patient. It sounds like the brake pads are bad or one of the brake calipers is loose.

Hey Ken, thank you so much for replying! It doesn’t feel like break hardware, I’ll post anther video here.

Here’s the video again, it looks like it may not have uploaded

Do you mean the creaking noise just as you step on the pedal? Does it only do it while the van is moving or can you get it to do it while stopped? How about if the engine is off? Is it the same if you stomp the pedal hard while in motion? From the sound it sounds like a dry bushing. Where is it the loudest, down near the floor or up near or under the dash? I could hear it in the first one but the second didn't seem to make it through. Try the different things I mentioned, then report back. My preliminary though is a subframe bushing creaking. A quick way to test that would be to go under the van and spray the subframe bushings with silicone spray and see if the creaking stops. You could also look at them while there. Those are the items circled.

Hey guys, I am so thankful for your replies. Here is the issue: if I accelerate from fully stopped, the front end of the van begins to creak like in the video (sorry for the quality). It sounds like it’s under the passenger and driver floorboards. The pedals aren’t creaking, and it isn’t breaking hardware. Now when I break at any speed, it makes the creaking sound. I believe the LCA bushings are shot, maybe struts. Here is another video:
https://share.icloud.com/photos/032LwGeC_hTJbXo1Qzwil-q4g

LCA will normally rattle but not creak like that struts don't either you would hear them on bumps and turns as well. Beneath the boards sounds like the rear bushings on the front subframe. One on each side mounted just in front of the footwells. Get under it and look at them. Good ones will be tight on top and bottom and if you pry between the body and subframe they shouldn't move. Even a small movement means they are bad. The subframe will try to rock under acceleration deceleration as the engines torque moves it, then braking tries to move it back. The lube test would prove it easily because if they are good the lube won't make any change, if the sound changes you found the problem. The good thing is that they are replaceable and the creaking from bad mounts is a known issue. I've replaced them in a parking lot before, would rather do them on a lift in the shop but a couple jack stands and a jack will work. Basically you get it in the air, remove the bolt from only one side, Remove the rear stiffener and get the top and bottom pieces out of the subframe, install the new one, torque the bolt to 76 ft lb. Install the stiffener and then move to the other side. That way you don't need to worry about the subframe shifting in the mounts.

Hey Steve, thank you so much for the detailed response! It looks like my motor mounts are bad, should I start with those, and then investigate the subframe stiffeners? I can give the lube test a go with them, and see if that helps also. Do you think the motor mounts could cause the squeaking issue? Thanks again for your help!

For some reason the video doesn't seem to load properly but the icloud ones do. Bad mounts will commonly rattle if they are bad enough or they will let engine sounds through, never really heard one creak that way. However if both were bad then bad mounts sure wouldn't help. I'd start with the subframe isolators, then test the mounts and see if they are causing other issues.

Hey Steve!
I finally had a chance to spray some WD40 specialist down there on the two rear subframe isolators on the front subframe, the noise essentially vanished and only reappeared after I drove 20 miles give or take.

Can you confirm these are the parts I need to order? Honda says I need to order new bolts because they are torque to yield?

So far I think I need to buy two of each of these:
Stay Bracket Lower Insulator - Honda (50260-TK8-A01)
Engine Cradle Upper Insulator - Honda (50231-S3V-A01)
Honda 90165-TK8-A00 Bolt, Flange (14X125)
Honda 90161-SHJ-A00 Bolt, Flange (12X30)

Using this diagram: https://www.hondapartsnow.com/genuine/honda~bolt~flange~14x125~90165-tk8-a00.html?vin=5FNRL5H9XBB019884&make=Honda&model=Odyssey&year=2011&submodel=&extra1=&extra2=&filter=()&location=body_air_conditioning/front_sub_frame_rear_cross_beam,4238260,21

Are these correct?
Thank you so much sir! I can’t believe you diagnosed the sound from my video! Grateful to the Lord for your help.

That looks correct. Been a while since I've dome one. Around here anything that is past 10 years is usually in the salvage yard unless it was imported from another state. They just rot from the salt.