no start, cranks over just fine though

This sounds like the crankshaft angle sensor or the fuel pump has gone out, when you turn the key to the on position without cranking the engine over can you hear the fuel pump run in the tank for 5 seconds?

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-cranks-but-wont-start

Please run down this guide and report back.

I needed an EFI relay for my car. thanks for the guides they help me find the problem. Sorry for the late response.

I just put new sparkplug wires and drove it down the street came back. went out tried to crank it about 5 hours later and making a not starter noise.
Have to listen until end.

Hi,

It's hard to tell, but I thought I heard the starter engage. Am I wrong? If is possible to do the test without the door indicator noise?

If the starter does engage and it doesn't start, take a look through this link and let me know if it helps:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-cranks-but-wont-start

If the starter does nothing, take a look through this link and let me know if it helps:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/starter-not-working-repair

I will watch for your reply.

Take care,
Joe

I tried the paper clip starter fuse trick it almost crank better but didn't.. so why could that be?

If hot wiring starter didn't work because even if it was bad it should've started doing that right?

Hi,

If there is power to the S terminal on the starter when the key is in the start position and the battery voltage is to the larger wire on the starter, it should have engaged the starter. Did you check for power at the starter?

I listened to the video again and heard the engine cranking.

Let me know exactly what is happening. For example, it cranks but doesn't start or the starter doesn't engage.

Take care,
Joe

My ex vandalized my car and it won't start. i was looking under hood Of my car listed above CE model and the wiring harness that connects to fuel injectors has a connector. if standing on passenger side looking it goes to the left it circle connected and for the life of me can't find out where it hooks up at .

Can you get a couple pictures of this connector and we should be able to find where it goes? Clearly there are quiet a few connectors so seeing it and the general location will help us figure out what it may be.

Also, if you can get codes that should help because I am sure you will have an open circuit code for whatever it is.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/checking-a-service-engine-soon-or-check-engine-light-on-or-flashing

Here's a video:

okay . That looks like the cam sensor. Here is the location of that, can you try and see if that appears to be it? If not, can you get a picture of exactly where the harness is laying? That video helped but it was a little quick on where the harness was laying. Lastly these wiring harness have what we call a memory. Meaning they seem to fall where they are to be connected so we need to look all over the back of the engine and even from underneath to look for a sensor that does not have its connector.

The other thing we can do is get the codes. That will tell us what has an open circuit and we can get the info on that sensor.

Check out the location attachment for more info. Thanks

Wasn't camshaft position sensor . The black piece is rubber and the connected is gray it is coming off the same thing as fuel injectors but to the left.

This is under the camshaft and looks as though it goes to something. Just copper piece standing straight up.

Got it. Thanks for that. That is the knock sensor. Looks like the connector is broken off the actual sensor. Take a look at these attachments. That just simply unscrews and you install the new one. However, you need to most likely get the connector from the sensor off the actual connector. You should be able to release it and get it off. If not you will need to replace the connector as well.

The only thing I am concerned about is, that may not be the reason it is not starting. Normally they will not prevent the engine from running if unplugged. It may misfire but it should still run. So he may have done other things to it as well.

I would do what you have to in order to get the codes from it as we need to find out what else is possibly off.

Car turns over but wont start, i tried plugging a code finder up and nothing came up on the screen like it wasn't getting any power I have changed the plugs battery and alternator and tried starter fluid as well nothing seems to be working what's the problem?

I am willing to guess that you are not getting any fuel to the injectors. Possibly the fuel pump. Could be a spark issue as well.

well i sprayed starter fluid into the hose that runs to the fuel injectors and the car did not start so i know the fuel pump is not the problem because if it was then the car would have started and i checked to see if the distributor was sending a spark to the plugs and it did but the spark plugs wasn't showing a spark so i changed the spark plugs still does the same thing turns over but wont crank and with a code finder the screen didnt come on so Im not getting power to the DLC so now what do I try?

You cannot spray starting fluid into the hose when trying to turn the car over and expect the car to start because there isn't enough pressure from the can of fluid to pressurize all 4 injectors. You can however un hook the supply line from the tank and have somebody turn the key to the on position and see if the fuel comes out of the hose under pressure.

If you are connecting the spark plug wires to an external spark plug and turning over the car and do not see any spark, that is probably your issue. Check the cap and rotor if it has a distributor.

this all started one day when the car ran for 30 seconds and then shut off after that all it will do is turn over it wont crank we changed the battery and the alternator and the spark plugs the distributor is putting out spark we checked that with a screwdriver very painful if not done correctly the only parts we haven't checked is the crankshaft position sensor, timing belt, and the fuel pump do you think any of these parts could be the problem?

It could be a number of things. I would start with the fuel pump, make sure that the timing belt hasn't broke and go from there.

Belts broke while driving it will turn over but won't run and it should still start from my understanding its like it turn then looses compression could it be the crank sensor is bad it was running great till last night some times it would cut off but start right back up

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-cranks-but-wont-start

Go to above link for information on how to go about diagnosing the problem. A broken belt can cause damages to the crank sensor or its wiring.

I had the spark plugs changed and oil. It ran good for a week, then started hesitating again, then the engine light popped on and the car cut off and will not start up anymore. It turns over and grinds but there is no fire power to make it crank up. Please help!

Hello LAURETTA ANDERSON,

If you decide you would like to conduct the scan yourself here is a link to an article from this site that features written step by step instructions and pictures explaining how to do the scan yourself. Also, I have included a link to our YouTube channel with a how to video on code scanning.

This is applicable even if your check engine light is not on.

Most scanners are inexpensive to purchase, you can purchase one online from sites like Amazon.com

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/checking-a-service-engine-soon-or-check-engine-light-on-or-flashing

https://youtu.be/YV3TRZwer8k

Once you have the codes please get back to us with the code number(s) so that we can further assist you. We are always happy to help.

Thank you for visiting 2CarPros.com.

Kindest regards,

Renee
Admin

I have a cold starting problem with this 99 ,4 cyl Camry. Intermittent initially but becoming more of a problem with the weather getting colder. I did basic tune up , cleaned and replaced a battery connection with no improvement. Battery voltage good. Car would start readily with starter fluid and run fine . MIL out ,and PCM has no codes. Warm starts are fine. Tested fuel pump and regulator .Pressure good and held for appropriate time. Changed fuel filter. Changed Coolant Temp sensor and seemed to improve but now colder overnight temps problem is back. Today couldn't start with starter spray. California emission ,so I believe there is no MAF or cold start fuel injector on this car. Now instead of a lean fuel condition on start up ,I'm starting to think this may be an ignition problem. Like I said the car runs great when I can start it ,including good performance on the road.

Hello –

We need to make sure you and I are on the same page so I am gonna need a little more info if that’s okay.

First is your Camry a CE, LE, Solara SE or XLE?

Next, a basic tune up….did that include new plugs, plug wires, air filter?

Battery voltage good – did you have a draw test done on it?

Please do me a favor, please go to Auto Zone or O’Reilly’s and for FREE they can pull the codes to the car. I know you did this but have them check once more. Most important: Once they check your codes, if they find something and you don’t get it fixed and need to get back with us, please make sure you tell us exactly what the code was, number and all. Example, if the code was E0568 O2 Sensor bad. Then make sure you give us all of that. Very big, while there for FREE also they can bring their tester out and check your battery, alternator and starter.

We need to figure out if it is electrical or fuel related. Pull a plug wire off of the spark plug and insert something into the end of it and have someone try to start the car and have the metal object really close to a piece of metal on the engine and see if you are getting a good strong popping blue spark. Don’t have your hands on any part of the metal!!! If there is no spark, then it is electrical. If you are getting good spark then you need to get a fuel pressure check on the fuel pump to ensure it is putting out okay. You have already said you checked the fuel pressure – do you remember what it was so when you give me the correct model vehicle I can compare it?

Please do the above and let’s take it from there.

It's a LE. Changed plugs wires and plugs .Battery new with new ground to block and frame. Fuel press 46 psi and held for 5 min. Collent temp sens new. Coil pack bank 1 new. Air filter new. Tryed again today to start car, no luck. Turns over fine. Plugs wet with gas after attempt. Checked Crank position sensor for ohms and got a "open"reading. I got a sticker 2 wks ago after I changed the coolent temp sensor.Car ran fine until 1 week later. Mass Insp computer showed no codes also. I use same scanner as Autozone. I'm going to change crank position sens Sat. If this dosen't work I'm really stumped.

Hello –

The crank sensor cold should read between 985-1600 ohms of resistance. Also, the car will crank with a bad sensor but it will not start.

I am with you - - change the crank sensor.

Consider the ISC or idle speed control motor. It is connected to the throttle body and sets idle air according to coolant temp. These can gum up causing cold start problems.

Problem solved. It was the crank position sensor. When I took the old one out ,I found the wire had a wear spot and a small break. Started with first turn with new sensor. I still don't know why I didn't a check engine light or a code in the PCM. Thanks for the idea toyotech ,I've run into that before.

I have the same problem currently with my 1999 Toyota Camry CE. No engine light, but have trouble cold starting it.

I took it to autozone and had the battery (incidently, a new one), alternator and starter tested - all three turned out to be good - the technician couldn't find anything wrong with it. Unlike johnmae18, I am not as well versed with car repairs, so would it be possible to explain in layman terms where the crank position sensor is so I can check it?

Thanks.

Edit - 4 cylinder, automatic transmission, 125k miles.

Hello - Sorry so long to get to you. This post was closed. It is very important that when you join that you enter a new - separate post for your vehicle for several reasons. One - I have been out of town so there is no visibility that you had or have a problem - thus you don't get an answer. Next - there are numerous outstanding moderators that work all the posts and if they don't have visibility, then again, our customers, you in this case either don't get help or it is delayed. Last - we keep the posts separate for one of the exact reasons you joined.....so others can benefit from the problems of others and learn from it and possible fix their car. That way we can help many more people without really answering them. If you are attached to this one then folks won't benefit if your problem is different. Okay........let's take a look Good on you for taking it to AZ and getting the items checked. Even though you didn't have an engine light did you have the codes checked? Sometimes the light can go on/off and set a code. So please do that. Next - here is the info on the Crank sensor per your request. 1. Crankshaft position sensor is located behind lower timing belt cover, near crankshaft sprocket. See Fig. 26 . 2. Disconnect negative battery cable. Disconnect electrical connectors at generator. Remove accessory drive belt and generator. Raise and support vehicle. Remove passenger's side front wheel and passenger's side lower engine cover for access to crankshaft pulley. 3. Support engine with hoist to release pressure from front (timing belt end) engine mount. Remove front (timing belt end) engine mount insulator-to-engine mount bracket bolts/nuts. Remove bolts/nuts and power steering reservoir for access to front (timing belt end) engine mount assembly. 4. Remove bolts/nuts and front (timing belt end) engine mount insulator. Remove bolts and front (timing belt end) engine mount bracket from front of cylinder block for access to timing belt cover. 5. Remove bolts, upper timing belt cover and gaskets. Remove crankshaft pulley bolt. Using puller, remove crankshaft pulley. 6. Disconnect wiring harness for crankshaft position sensor from clamps on lower timing belt cover. Remove bolts, lower timing belt cover and gasket. Disconnect electrical connector for crankshaft position sensor. Remove bolt and crankshaft position sensor.

Thanks a lot for your detailed reply. I'll take it to Autozone again and ask them to run the codes like you advised.

I apologise for not making a separate post. I found the problem that johnmae had to be similar to mine, hence didn't make a new one. Some of the other forums (not car forums, but other stuff) that I am a member of prefer to keep similar problems grouped up, hence me post adding on to his.

Thanks again for your response.

Hello –

Not a problem………..everyone has their system I guess……the main thing I do see if there are lots of folks trying to help lots of folks out there and that is a great thing.

I just needed you to know this system as I don't want you, the customer just sitting expecting something and never hearing from us because we didn't see it etc.....boy would that be a drag!

Hope that helped……have a great day!

reeplace timing belt and warterpump and started it up run fine then stop after about 10 min will not start new fuel pump crank sensor and cam sensor still no run not with starting will run with starter will not

reeplace timing belt and warterpump and started it up run fine then stop after about 10 min will not start new fuel pump crank sensor and cam sensor still no run not with starting fluid will run going crazy help