engine wiring diagrams please?

When you say relay you mean the PGM FI relay? We are losing power somewhere. Here is a guide and the engine wiring diagrams so you can test to see where the power loss occurs:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-a-test-light-circuit-tester

Check out the diagrams (below). Please run some tests and get back to us.

Cheers, Ken

The engine shut off while driving (no restart) and that lead to my diagnosis that coil failed (no spark, ohms out of spec, casing shows sign of arcing/heat damage). After replacing the coil and spark plugs, I realize I hadn't taken a pic of the wire connections within the distributor and didn't have them in correct location (no start). I then realized I had more available connectors on the ICM than wires to attach. I located a wiring diagram and the unattached connector is the stand alone on the ICM (closest to the coil). A wiring diagram shows that to be the 'blue' wire for RPM indicator (but is that correct?). Pix/diagrams seen online show that blue wire is in a 2-wire black insulator with the black/yellow wire (power). I have no blue wire.. and it's not broken off and within insulator. I can't find a blue wire inside the distributor at all..

So is there a wire that should be attached to that stand alone tab on ICM and why isn't it there in insulated wrap ('harness') with power wire for coil ready for me to snap on...

This isn't my first time under the hood..removed heads for valve job -and that was 35 yrs ago. But I admit I'm looking silly with this Magic disappearing wire act.

Pic 1 Shows distributor wired as best guess and the unattached tab on ICM just below center of pic. (distributor mounted)

Pic 2 Show more wiring detail. Wire disconnected from coil + terminal. (distributor dismounted)

According to the diagram I attatched, the pair of black wires that have the eylet connector, should be attatched via a screw to the ceramic heat sink directly below them, everything else looks correct, but the initial problem sounds more like a failed ICM, if you are able to get all the wiring corrected, and it still wont start, even with a new coil, you might suspect the ICM as the culprit. Check out the diagrams (Below). Please let us know if you need anything else to get the problem fixed.

Ok I see what you mean, there should be a blue wire coming out of the sheath to go onto the side ICM tab....

May sound silly, but is your vehicle equipped with a tachometer?

Has anyone figured this out? I have the same problem. No blue wire to connect to the icm. My old icm tested bad at two parts stores. Purchased a new one exact same set up as the old icm but I don't have a blue wire to connect to the side of icm closest to coil. I don't remember there being one when I disconnected the old icm either. Have a junker Distributor from similar car that has the blue wire although the wiring connector is different and my wiring connector also looks different from the one in the service manual. my car is a 2000 civic LX 1.6L with TEC distributor

Wondering if this could be a difference between automatic and manual vehicles. My car is an automatic

my 1998 honda civic dx coupe ecu harness has been cut, some of the wires are the same colour , how can i find out which one goes to which location on my new connector i got from the scrap yard? I was told by a friend that I have to change the whole car's complete wiring harness

Hondas normally use three things to tell them apart. The main wire color, a different colored dashed stripe, and a few different colored dots every inch.

If the connector you got is the same, sometimes they change wire colors during different years. In that case, you can go by the locations in the plugs if you still have the old one, otherwise you'll need service manuals for your car and for the car the connector came from so you can determine which wire is for which function. The alternative is to find a different connector with the same color wires.

caradiodoc

would a regular mechanic be able to do this for me?

They would have to go through the same steps I listed. The advantage to taking it to a shop is they will have people who are good at soldering, but the disadvantage is this is not the type of thing they normally do so your car might sit on the back burner for a while until they have the time to work on it, OR, they are going to have to charge you for the mechanic's time to figure it out. At around 100 bucks per hour, you might be better off learning to do it yourself, assuming you have time to do that.

If you have a community college nearby, there are two possibilities. You might be able to enroll in just their automotive electrical class, or the students might take it on as a project. We were always looking for live work for the students to gain experience, but my class was only 8 weeks long, 22 hours per week, and we had all we could handle to get through the required stuff. That left us with just one week per year at the end of the course for things like this.

Some schools have night classes for anyone in the community to attend. There are no grades or homework. Just bring in your projects and have the instructor help you.

caradiodoc

one last question , what do you mean by dots, on the wires, i the wires have a solid colour, a stripe, and then i see some silver marks, ? for example i see 2 wires that are yellow and both have a black stripe, will there be circles on them too? Also where can i get a service manual.

Those silver marks are the dots. Look for different color dots on the two yellow / black wires. If both wires are exactly the same, they both might have gone into the same terminal in the connector.

By far the best service manuals come from the dealer. You can also look on eBay. I bought a lot of manuals from "lorieandjeff" out of Tennessee, but I think they go by a different name now. They always have thousands of car dealer items listed and most are service manuals.

There is a service online called AllData but it is very expensive. They have wiring diagrams but they are kind of hard to follow. Our community college paid over a thousand dollars per year to rent it for five computers. One of them was in the library and was made available to everyone in the community. Another one is called "Mitchel On Demand", but it is expensive too. Their wiring diagrams are a little better but nothing is as good as a paper book.

You might consider asking the dealer if you could photocopy some pages out of their service manuals. Often when they get to be more than ten years old they will donate them to schools with automotive programs. You can ask there too.

caradiodoc

ok, thanks alot for your help, I am glad i talked to you or I would have bought a whole wiring harness and wasted alot of time and money. I am gonna take your advice and tackle this thing on thursday when I have alot of time.
Thanks alot

What's your age and experience with electrical? I have a lot of "Notes Pages" handouts I produced for my students. I'm working on making that stuff available on a web site. The most important thing with what you're attempting is to be good at soldering. First you need a good mechanical connection between the spliced wires, then soldering provides the good electrical connection. Heat the wires on one side and apply the solder to the other side. When it melts, it will flow toward the heat source and encompass all of the wires. You don't want to just build up a pile of solder around the outside of the joint. There should be no sharp points sticking up from the wires because next you'll slide a piece of heat-shrink tubing over the joint. Sharp wires could work their way out and lead to corrosion of the connection. Don't use electrical tape. It will unravel in a sticky mess when it gets hot. Heat-shrink tubing seals when you warm it with a lit match, but don't overdo it. It will melt and split open from too much heat. Chrysler and some auto parts stores even have heat-shrink tubing with hot-melt glue inside to seal the connection against moisture. It is real smart to use that stuff under the hood.

caradiodoc

Will the engines wireing harness match a v18 acura motor

different engines all have specific harness. if you transpalnt a different motor, you need the complete harness from the donor motor.

Roy

Do you mean b18? If so I can tell you exactly what parts you need. Your existing harness can work.

What I need you to answer for me is what year the b18 is coming from. Which b18 enigne is it? B18b non-vtec, b18c1 v-tec or b18c5 v-tec. It's a pretty straight forward engine swap!

Engine Performance problem
1993 Honda Civic 4 cyl Front Wheel Drive Manual

I have a D16 and want to swap it with a B16 or a B18. I was wondering what all needed to be swapped out like ecu, engine wiring harness and if so would they plug right into my existing harness.

you will need integra torque mounts, timing belt side mount bracket (that bolts to the engine), the rear "L shaped" mount bracket from an integra as well.

You will also need the shifter linkage and axles from an integra (94+). Rad hoses, ECU for your engine and obd, distributor, alternator, starter, transmission, engine, intake manifold, exhaust manifold and possibly the power steering pump or atleast the bracket from an integra.

It seems like alot of parts, but really most engine swap places will sell you everything you need. Just make sure you have the RIGHT ECU!!