Cranks but will not start?

Hello,

Do you have fuel pressure at the fuel rail? In the diagrams down below I have included factory directions on how to test the fuel pressure on your vehicle. If you are very careful, you can turn your vehicle's ignition key to "run", not "start", for 5 seconds and then with a finishing nail, or something similar, quickly press the little pin in the middle of the fuel pressure relief valve for a split second only. If your vehicle has fuel pressure, fuel will spray out. Be careful when doing this as gasoline is extremely dangerous and flammable. Please get back to us with what you find out and we can go from there.

Thanks,
Alex
2CarPros

Yes, it does have fuel pressure in the fuel rails.

Hello again,

Okay, that's good. This could be a problem with your vehicle's Crankshaft Position Sensor(CKP). In the diagrams down below I have included the instructions for the removal and installation of your vehicle's CKP. Please go through this guide and get back to us with what you are able to find out.

Thanks,
Alex
2CarPros

I just installed a new crankshaft position sensor today and it still cranking over but still will not start.

Hello again,

Okay, did the connector look good? It wasn't broken or oil fouled or anything like that? Let's go ahead and change out the Camshaft Position Sensor (CMP) as well. In the diagrams down below I have included them description and diagram, as well as the instructions for the removal and installation of the CMP on your vehicle. Go ahead and go through these guides and get back to us with what you are able to find out.

Thanks,
Alex
2CarPros

Engine will start when cold, after it runs for a few minutes turn off and will not start. Just replaced EGR valve. No codes present.

This sounds like a classic engine coolant temperature sensor issue or you have a vacuum leak.
Here are two guides to help us figure out which is the problem:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-an-engine-vacuum-gauge

and

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/coolant-temperature-sensor-cts-replacement

If the coolant sensor is not responding it will not give a trouble code.

Installation:
To install, reverse the removal procedure.
Tighten the ECT sensor to 16-24 Nm (12-17 lb ft) .
Refill cooling system.

Below is the location for your car.



Please run this test and get back to us.

Cheers, Ken

Changed temp. sensor. Will start without holding to floor but idles very high rpm and has developed a skip.

It sounds like you have a vacuum leak can you go over this guide to see what you find?

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-an-engine-vacuum-gauge

Let me know

I was driving to Vet last night on highway. Car just stopped running.It will crank but not start. I tried towing it in gear, ignition on to jump start nothing.I changed fuel filter, fuel pump is pumping yet weak.Spark plug wires spark yet week.I added five gallons of gas just in case.It turns over, has spark and appears to have fuel pump pumping yet will not catch. Timing chain?

Good morning,

Yes, It could be the timing belt. A compression test will confirm if the timing is off. You should have around 125.140 lbs of compression.

I attached a diagram of the belt for you to check and see if the marks are aligned.

Roy

REMOVAL
1. Remove spark plugs.
2. Align crankshaft so number one piston is at TDC (top dead center) as indicated by timing marks.
3. Remove outer timing belt cover.
4. Loosen timing belt spring pivot bolt. Do not remove.

CAUTION: If you attempt to remove timing belt or adjust tension without loosening both timing belt tensioner adjusting bolt and spring pivot bolt, you will break Camshaft Belt Tension Adjusting Tool T74P-6254-A when you attempt to relieve tension on belt.

(Part 1 Of 2)
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(Part 2 Of 2)
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5. Hold tensioner with Camshaft Belt Tension Adjusting Tool T74P-6254-A.
6. While holding tensioner, loosen adjusting bolt and gradually release spring tension.
7. Using adjusting tool, rotate tensioner, against spring pressure, as far clockwise as possible. While holding, tighten adjusting bolt to hold tensioner away from belt.
8. Remove timing belt.

(Part 1 Of 2)
imageOpen In New TabZoom/Print

(Part 2 Of 2)
imageOpen In New TabZoom/Print

Engine turns over fast but wont start. I replaced the fuel pump and relay but still wont start.

Are you getting spark and fuel to the engine? Will it start with starting fluid?

Cant see any spark. How would I apply starting fluid to this fuel injected engine?
Thanks

Through the throttle body. However, if there is no spark, it still will not start.

I sprayed the starting fluid into the throttle body as you said. It did try to start. I then went to the air filter and looked at it. It looked clean. It had a screened in deal with a sensor connected to it. When I put it all back together the truck started. It sounds like a short somewhere. What do you think?

It could be. Make sure everything is connected and not broken.


https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-cranks-but-wont-start

Try this guide.

replaced timing belt and lined up correctly and need code replaced filters and spark plugs also..still won't start..tried replacing crank shaft censor.don't know what esle to say said everything i did and tried to do...

If distrubterless system in that year range oil pump drive gear has more than one ID mark. oil pump or aux. shaft dives dist. replacement for CMP. Marks can easily be aligned incorrectly. Very easy to do but it will not start. see pic

I replaced a broken timing belt and water pump on my truck listed above started first crank. After filling the cooling system i started the engine let it run to burp the radiator. turned engine off then tried to start it again crank no start.
Let it sit after a couple hours engine starts run great no issues after two to three start/stop cycles back to crank no start.

Good evening,

When it will not start, did you check fuel pressure?

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-fuel-system-pressure-and-regulator

Did you check for spark?

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-test-an-ignition-system

Roy

No, not yet. I will have to purchase a pressure tester and go from there. I am getting spark and checked injectors for pulse with a noid light good there.

Okay, sounds like the fuel pressure is next.

Roy

Yep, sounds like you need to test the pressure.

Roy

My 96 ford ranger has stopped starting. I replaced the #23 fuse while the truck was running and upon doing so the truck quit running. I have checked all the other fuses. Did notice that I am no longer getting fire from my plugs. The timing belt looks fine and have also replaced the coils. Will turn over but wont start. Really appreciate any help. Cant really afford to take it in.

Hi mojo_7733, Welcome to 2carpros and TY for the donation

No snapping blue spark continue to troubleshoot the ignition system-power input to the coil/coil packs,coil's resistances,distributor pick-up coil, ignition control module, cam and crank sensors and computer Note: If it doesn't apply disregard it

What did the #23 fuse cover? Also, have you checked the crank sensor? Are you getting power to the coil? Also, pop the distributor cap off and make sure the rotor is turning when the engine is cranking.

Let me know what you find.

Joe

Electrical problem 4 cyl Two Wheel Drive Manual 300000 miles

I started my truck, drove it about 200 yards and it quit, like someone turned off the ignition switch.
No indication of trouble beforehand. It cranks, but will not fire up. The fuel pump runs for a few seconds when the key is turned and there is pressure at the fuel injector rail valve.
I even dropped the fuel tank and removed the fuel pump/sender. The fuel pump ran fine with 12 volts applied to it.
I put an inductive timing light on some of the plug wires and get an intermittent spark on most plug wires. It sometimes gives a single, muffled backfire when cranking, but won't fire.
About a year ago, it ran very poorly after warming up so I put in in the shop. The Ford dealership replaced an ignition block and it has run flawlessly up until now.

I went to the local AutoZone and rented a fuel pressure test kit, $149.95 deposit, plus tax, BUT, I get it back when I return it. NO RENTAL FEE!
Anyway, I connected it to the schrader valve on the injector rail. It went up to 40 lbs pressure when I cranked the key. It's getting, and holding fuel pressure, but still won't fire up!
Since one coil pack is only about a year old, I think it highly unlikely that both coil packs are bad, causing no spark.
Could the crankshaft position sensor be the culprit, since it was running perfectly, then just quit?
Only thing is, on my 96 Ranger, 2.3 four cylinder, I have to remove the air cleaner assy, the alternator belt, alternator, THEN drain my coolant and remove water hoses JUST TO GET TO THE THING!
Is there anything I can do before I go through all of that?
I'd sure hate to go through that process, remove and replace it, and it isn't the problem.
I guess what I'm trying to ask is what are the chances of this being the problem part?

If the ignition coils are okay and the ICM your last stop is at the CPS

Here is a guide that will help you

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-cranks-but-wont-start

Please run some tests and get back to us so we can continue helping you.

[quote:80abf9446d="rasmataz"]If the ignition coils are okay and the ICM your last stop is at the CPS-Your shot partner[/quote:80abf9446d]

Thanks for responding!
I just replaced the crankshaft position sensor, no progress there(very difficult and troublesome to get to and replace.
I even rented a diagnostic code reader, brand-new. I hooked it up and it said - "PASS, No codes present".
Since I know the coil blocks are good, could it be the cam position sensor (CPS)? There aren't any other components left in the electronic ignition system to check, are there?
BTW, what is the ICM?

I have a new cam position sensor, but can't find it on the engine to replace it (96, 2.3L).
Also, where is the ICM located? I can have it checked.

The camshaft sensor is located on left front of engine behind oil pump pulley. Your ICM looks like this below and I dunno where its located been looking into Mit1 and Alldata auto references no exact location-sorry

Thank you for the pics, now I know what it looks like. I have searched my truck for 2 days and cannot find this ICM module. Is there anyone out there who knows where this module is located? I called the local Ford dealer today and all they told me was that it was in the inner right fender. IT'S NOT THERE!

I've checked with Alldata and it says its integrated with the powertrain control module-Computer

[quote:df23cefaeb="rasmataz"]I've checked with Alldata and it says its integrated with the powertrain control module-Computer[/quote:df23cefaeb]

THANKS!
Well you know my next question is - Where is that? Is it under the dash?
I'll bet that's expensive!
I'm not about to tear down half the engine to replace the cam position sensor and everything else is good. I just checked the coil blocks with an ohm meter, primary and secondary seem fine.

Hello,

The PCM is located in the firewall on the passengers side. Here is a diagram that shows its location.

Please check the timing belt as well.

Please let us know what happens.

Cheers, Ken

One time it will fire up like normal but if you shut it off it won’t crank back up until it sits a while. Also, when it’s running it occasionally has a small but quick dip in rpm's.

Hi and thanks for using 2CarPros.

The first thing that comes to mind is a bad electronic engine control relay (EEC). This relay will prevent the fuel pump from coming on as well as shutting off the ignition.

It's been awhile, but I recall several reports of this in the past where the car ran fine, someone would park, come back a few minutes later and it wouldn't start.

With that in mind, here is what I want you to do. The PCM power relay functions the same as the EEC relay on your truck. What I want you to do is this. When the engine refuses to start, switch that relay with a different one in the fuel/relay box that has the same part number and then see if it will start.

I attached a picture of the relay box under the hood as well as a legend of what each component is for.

Do this and let me know if it works. If it does, just replace the relay.

Take care,
Joe

I tried switching the relays and it didn’t work. I was told by someone else that the camshaft synchronizer could also cause that but I don’t know. any help would be great.

If the EEC isn't the issue, the next suspect is the crankshaft position sensor. Take a look through this link.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/symptoms-of-a-bad-crankshaft-sensor

The Crankshaft Position Sensor is located at the lower front of the engine. (See Picture 1)

Crankshaft Position (CKP) Sensor


See Picture 2

REMOVAL
1. Disconnect battery ground cable.

NOTE: When battery voltage is removed from the Powertrain Control Module (PCM), all learned values will be cleared and reset to predetermined values. When battery voltage is restored to the PCM, the vehicle may exhibit certain driveability concerns. It will be necessary to drive the vehicle to allow the PCM to relearn values for optimum driveability and performance.

2. Disconnect Crankshaft Position (CKP) sensor electrical connector.
3. Remove two CKP sensor screws and remove sensor.

INSTALLATION
1. Position CKP sensor on engine .
2. Install two CKP sensor screws and tighten to 4-7 Nm (35-62 Lb in).
3. Route CKP sensor wiring harness and connect electrical connector.
4. Connect battery ground cable.

________________________________

When the problem happens, you have two easy choices to check. First, if you have a live data scanner, see if there is an RPM signal. If there isn't, my first suspect is this sensor. Or, check to see if the engine is getting spark.

Here are a couple links you may find helpful:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/crankshaft-angle-sensor-replacement

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-test-an-ignition-system

Let me know what you find or if you have other questions.

Joe