Engine cranks but no start up?

Hello,

When you turn the key to the on position without cranking the engine over can you hear the fuel pump run in the tank for 5 seconds?

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-cranks-but-wont-start

Please run down this guide and report back. It sounds like the crankshaft angle sensor or fuel pump which both are common

I don't have that information if it was replaced or not. if yes, i was asked to do manual entry configuration and this is the result i got from As-Built Data Center ... [ 2CFF FFFF FF28] Please help me out.

Hello again,

All of the Direct Trouble Codes[DTC][s] are dealing with the either the wheel speed sensor or the ABS module. DTC 1805 is a DTC for the ABS module and the Power-train Control Module[PCM] not being configured to one another. This could be a problem with your vehicle's PCM. Ford uses the Crankshaft Position Sensor[CKP] for the spark and fuel injector timing on vehicles with coil packs and the Camshaft Position Sensor[CMP] for vehicle's with Coil On Plugs[COP][s] to do the same thing. The fact that you have installed a new CKP would also lead me to believe that your PCM may be bad. I have a 1997 Ford Mustang GT with a 4.6L engine and I just had to replace my PCM for a no start condition, and your engine operates the same as mine because mine also uses coil packs. The CKP is the only sensor that the PCM uses to start your engine. The way to check to see if the PCM is to blame is to disconnect the connector from the PCM. Using two small safety pins, straightened out, insert one into cavity 34[CKP -] and cavity 45[CKP +]. The small safety pins straightened out should fit snugly, but not damage the cavities of the PCM electrical connector. Do not force into the cavities. It will damage them and the electrical connector will then be no good. With a helper cranking the engine look for a rising and failing voltage reading from your Digital Multi-meter [DMM] with the the red probe touching the safety pin in cavity 45 and the black touching the safety pin in cavity 34. If you get a voltage reading then the PCM is bad and if you do not then the problem is either the CKP or the wires going from the CKP. I have included the Power-train Management wiring diagram with the CKP wires highlighted for you in the diagrams down below as well as a description of DTC C 1805 in the diagrams down below. Please do this diagnostic test and get back to us with what you find out and we can go from there.

Thanks,
Alex
2CarPros

Thanks, i actually removed the PCM today and opened it. it smells burnt.
once again i really appreciate.

Hello again,

If you have a problem after replacing the PCM with the Passive Anti Theft System[PATS] immobilizer not allowing the engine to start, you might have to program the ignition keys to the new PCM. If so I have included the instructions for this in the diagrams down below.Please keep us informed as to how everything turns out and please, don't hesitate to ask if you have any other questions.

Thanks,
Alex
2CarPros

Thanks.
Maxisys ms906bt. that is what i'm using. The car owner said he has only one key. can it be programmed with 1 key.

Hello again,

It can but requires special equipment. I have included the instructions in the diagrams down below. I hope that this helps.

Thanks,
Alex
2CarPros

I replaced my starter, got alternator tested, it’s good, and battery is good. Truck was working, went in the house for two hours came back out and truck would not start. Got a jump, nothing. Truck tried to start but still would not stay on. I’m confused to what is the problem. Can you please help?

Hello, I'm Danny,

It sounds like you might have a faulty or weak fuel pump the is not supplying enough fuel pressure to start or drive your truck. I would suggest performing a fuel pressure test. Here is a tutorial showing what is involved for testing fuel pressure:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-fuel-system-pressure-and-regulator

The correct fuel pressure for your truck is attached as a picture below. After performing this get back to us with the test results and we'll then help better diagnose. Hope this helps and thanks for using 2CarPros.

My 2004 ford explorer is having trouble starting. It has only been cranking without starting. I've tried starter fluid in the air intake, to see if the problem could be my fuel filter. I have been able to get my car to turn over, only after removing the fuel relay fuse from the fuse box. Thinking this was the problem I purchased a new one, but it will not turn over with the new one. The car will only turn over when the relay is removed, and when it does it smells horribly of gas while white smoke comes from the exhaust. Can you help walk me through what could be wrong?

The idea that it will start without the relay tells me it is getting too much fuel. Removing the relay turns the fuel pump off. You need to start by checking fuel pump pressure to see if it is too high which would be the result of a bad fuel pressure regulator.

As far as the smoke, I am hoping it is caused from condensation. If it doesn't go away after it is running for awhile, you may have coolant getting into the combustion chamber from a bad head gasket.

ok so back in Feb my suv all of a sudden just stalled 3 miles away from home. no engine light and no signs of something was wrong and it cranked but doesn't start. So my husband has changed fuel pump and filter, spark plugs and wires, starter new battery, cam shaft sensor. Someone told him to change the fuel pressure sensor but according to all of the signs my suv doesn't have any of that. asked quite a few people and they haven't a clue because we changed everything they said to. It still cranks but doesn't start. I just don't want to put any more money into it if its not it already spent 400.00 on this problem. Hopefully you can help me out. :) up by the firewall he checked and there is fuel coming out of those lines

Have it scanned for soft codes. It sounds like you'll need to tow it.

Check the spark plugs. Are they getting spark when cranking the engine? Insert a Philips screwdriver the way into the boot and hold the metal part of the screwdriver near a metal engine part while someone cranks the engine. You want to see a bright blue or white spark.

Prior to replacing the battery and the starter, did it turn over and so strongly (ruhruhruhruhruh), or did it sound old and tired (ruuuuh......ruuuuuh....ruuuuh-uhhh...) doing so?

The attached image shows the camshaft position sensor location.

all of a sudden today the explorer just cranks and i smelll fuel, its turning over, but no start..???

Cranks but no start condition:

Get a helper disconnect a sparkplug wire or 2 and ground it to the engine at least 3/16 away from ground -have helper crank engine over-do you have a snapping blue spark?

I have spark on cylinders 456, but no spark on cylinders 123, testing right from the coil pack.???

Swap the coil around and see what happens

I Tapped on the cam sensor and what do you know.....Cranked right up. I hate those types of problems because How am i sure that is what is wrong? Is there somewhere i can get the sensor tested at?

Try the dealer-go here and get the basic idea on the cam sensor: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RtqeOYNgn8A

engine turns over, will not start, can smell fuel,
it does this about once every two months, but if you let it sit for 5 miniute, it will start ok.

this time will not start at all

Have you checked to see if you are getting spark when it doesn't start? If you smell fuel, chances are you're not getting spark. If that is the case, the crank sensor may be going bad. Has the check engine light come on?

I went to a Murphy's at my local Walmart. Got gas. Literally moved about 20ft into the parking lot and shut off engine. Played on my phone for a bit (checking bank statement, etc.,) tried to crank up and nothing happened. Over a course of 3 days I replaced battery, alternator, and starter still no start. Attempted to jump start it and still no start. All it does is crank crank crank when I turn key but will not start.

A little back story on it, the serpentine belt did snap on it few days before the no start incident began due to loose compressor. Tightened down the compressor and replaced the belt the following day. Before I could replace belt I was stuck in the middle of town with my wife, 5 year old and 7month old in 40 degree weather at about 10:00pm so no store near me was open, so I had to drive home with no belt. What can be causing my crank, no start problem?

I don't think any of that is related. However, we will come back to it if needed.

Let's start from the beginning when we have a crank no start issue. Here is a guide that we are going to walk through to figure this out:

https://youtu.be/dCjmRL3p4Cs

I want to start with using starter fluid in the intake and just crank the engine. So pick some up from a parts store and then spray it in the top of the housing for the air filter. Not through the air filter, but on the engine side of the air filter housing. Then just crank the engine and see if the engine starts for a second or two.

If it does then we need to check the fuel pressure. Here is a guide that tells us how to do that:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-fuel-system-pressure-and-regulator

If this doesn't do anything then we need to check for spark but let's address the fuel first because I think that this is the issue.

Let me know what questions you have. Thanks

My vehicle listed above is having problems with the throttle. I have change the throttle positioning sensor, the actuator motor that's on the throttle body, oil change. the pedal positioning sensor all it does when you turn the key to the on position is that actuator motor clicks three times and then no accelerator pedal what so ever. it has happened three times now; first time is left me stranded for three days the other time just two hours and now two weeks. I've checked all fuses relays and wiring that I can get to and I put a different computer in it which I knew would not start it. it did the same exact thing the three clicks when you turn the key on and then nothing. the actuator motor makes a bunch of clicking noises when you start it and then continues to making those noises. I don't know what's going on, but I need my car back.

This could be a number of things but we need to start with checking for codes. If we have codes then that will point us in the right direction and give us the testing that we need to perform.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/checking-a-service-engine-soon-or-check-engine-light-on-or-flashing

I am thinking we have potential accelerator pedal position sensor codes or some other codes that are disabling the throttle.

Let me know what you find and we can go from there. Thanks

I changed harmonic balances on sohc 4.0. The wood-ruff key did not go in right so when i tried to start it after i put it back together the key was not holding the timing gear, so the crank turned but not timing gears. I took it back apart get the key grooves lined up again and put new key in and got it back together correctly. but now it will not start. I tried taking it back apart and turning the crank 180 degrees on the timing gear and put the key back in, but it still will not start. someone please help!

Stop trying to start it. That engine is an interference engine. That means at the very least you have some bent valves. At worst you have a scrap engine. It will never run as it currently is. You have the option of trying to repair it or replacing the engine. Your choice.